Now I have had my SL65 for a couple of weeks I realise just how fast it is.
However here in the UK where it always rains is not the best place to floor
the loud pedal with damp roads. Nearly every time I am having fun I have
a moment where my nuts go tight. Nothing I have met has come near the
65 even an M5. You guys that have done serious mods must have cast
iron nerves. I am wondering whether to have mine re mapped.
What's it like to drive a modified one
Your input would be apreciated.
However here in the UK where it always rains is not the best place to floor
the loud pedal with damp roads. Nearly every time I am having fun I have
a moment where my nuts go tight. Nothing I have met has come near the
65 even an M5. You guys that have done serious mods must have cast
iron nerves. I am wondering whether to have mine re mapped.
What's it like to drive a modified one
Your input would be apreciated.
the only bad thing i can say about the 65 is that the rear wiggles at low speeds and wags at high speeds when pushed hard... at low speeds it will hop and wiggle, at 70 when floored it loses traction and spins one wheel, then the lsd catches it and spins the other- repeat two, three times and then you are at 120. i think the lsd is just slow- acting.
the car just does not put the power down nicely especially at speeds. slaloming at wot at 70 mph is ok in my book, but i can imagine how it can be unnerving for the average driver.
a pair of aftermarket lower control arms with stiffer bushings should improve things a lot. they are cheap and easy to install.
the car just does not put the power down nicely especially at speeds. slaloming at wot at 70 mph is ok in my book, but i can imagine how it can be unnerving for the average driver.
a pair of aftermarket lower control arms with stiffer bushings should improve things a lot. they are cheap and easy to install.
Thanks alx , can you give me any part names or part nos.
There are few vendors that offer reinforced adjustable lower control arms. Do a search. They range between $600 to 1000.
Its difficult to put that kind of power down at thsi time of year, when the roads are wet (or worse), so I might be tempted just to stay on the road in winter, and think about about tuning when the roads are drier in spring.
There's a line of thought that says if you can't use the power you already have, then why do you need more? (Just being provocative for a moment...)
Equally, another thought says that modest tuning is relatively inexpensive, and doesn't degrade other aspects of the car too much - like flexibility, economy, refinement, drivability etc - so what reason could you possibly have for NOT tuning?
Presumably you will fit a Johnson pump nomatter what, and live with that for a while - see how you get on with that?
I'll be curious to hear about whatever you do decide to do.
Nick
PS - I really wouldn't have thought that fitting upgraded suspension arms is going to solve those sorts of problems. Maybe take a look at the rear suspension and subframe bushes, and make sure they're in good condition. Maybe fit new tyres?
There's a line of thought that says if you can't use the power you already have, then why do you need more? (Just being provocative for a moment...)
Equally, another thought says that modest tuning is relatively inexpensive, and doesn't degrade other aspects of the car too much - like flexibility, economy, refinement, drivability etc - so what reason could you possibly have for NOT tuning?
Presumably you will fit a Johnson pump nomatter what, and live with that for a while - see how you get on with that?
I'll be curious to hear about whatever you do decide to do.
Nick
PS - I really wouldn't have thought that fitting upgraded suspension arms is going to solve those sorts of problems. Maybe take a look at the rear suspension and subframe bushes, and make sure they're in good condition. Maybe fit new tyres?
There is a lot of sense in what you guys say. It might be better to fit the pump now and have the re map done in the spring, where a dry summer day is not going to upset things. It's quite different the way the tuned 600 goes
compared with the 65. The 600 is quicker off the mark, less laggy, but the brute force of the 65 get it eventually. From the lights definately the 600,
compared with the 65. The 600 is quicker off the mark, less laggy, but the brute force of the 65 get it eventually. From the lights definately the 600,

Keep a watch on your rear tires. The inside treads typically wear earlier than outer edge from tire spin. This wear can be difficult to spot. I've been surprised how much quicker I go thru rears on my SL versus my prior m5.
As said above I'd recommend a tune. I'm happy with my Speedriven tune
As said above I'd recommend a tune. I'm happy with my Speedriven tune
Thanks, all booked in for next Monday, and then..........

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