SL55 AMG, SL63 AMG, SL65 AMG (R230) 2002 - 2011 (2003 US for SL55 and 2004 for the SL65)

SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Need SL65 Tuning Advice pt 2

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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 12:01 AM
  #1  
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06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Need SL65 Tuning Advice pt 2

So last weekend got my car ECU/TCU tuned at EC/DC open house and saw a big increase to over 563 whp. Next week leaving the car there for a custom exhaust setup with new headers, down pipes, straight piped into the muffler (if I can't stand the straight pipe ill change it to x pipe but I heard the turbos will eat up most of the sound)

So after I do the the exhaust I'm looking to do the next performance mod on my car. Has anyone done bigger fuel injectors on there 65s? I've heard this job is kinda tricky

I want to do new intakes, maybe a python tube set up if they have one for 65s or a bigger dual ram intake set up. The scorpion intake I'm kinda iffy on as I heard some people saying they have lost some mph when doing 1/4 mi even with bigger hp gains. If anyone can help me on this part that would be most appreciated as this mod is prob gonna be done soon

For cooling I already have a johnson pump and a HE from Eurocharged, will a trunk reservoir or bigger top mounted intercoolers help?

I can't think of any other upgrades besides turbo/tranny swap/rebuild but that's my last mod.

Maybe change the engine displacement? lol that's prob a PAIN in the @$$ to do and I think turbos will prob do more then enough.

So 600/65 owners input on this topic would be most appreciated
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 10:56 AM
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you cant do headers on these cars. The turbos are a part of the manifold. These stock manifolds flow very well for stock turbos. If you do headers you would get aftermarket turbos.
IMO downpipes is a must and you will happy.
Fueling wise you are fine with the 65 injectors.
Now are for the rear tank it is good because you will have the ability to add ice in order to cool the intake charge down when you race. As for daily driving the fluid in the whole system will a rear tank will eventually heat up and will only cool it down to what the front heat exchanger can do. Increased fluid capacity help a bit.
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:25 PM
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The downpipe's are gonna be built in my new exhaust system so I got that cover. Fuel injectors and Headers I'll prob do when I finally do the turbo upgrade. So it looks like after my exhaust I'll add a trunk reservoir which isn't bad in price.

Any suggestion with intakes? I'm looking for something that will improve my lower end performance (0-60 times, start from digs etc,)

Also anyone have any recommendations for which brand I should use for an LSD?
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:56 PM
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Why are you having trouble from a dig?I have traction issues from a dig..not power trouble...
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:20 PM
  #5  
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06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
I don't have any issue with the current power, it's just some of the intakes I've been researching compromise 0-60 times but improve the power on the longer pulls. I'm trying to find something that can keep my starts the close to the same if not better and improve the pulls.

I'm hoping the LSD will solve some traction issues from the dig lol
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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Do you know what your IAT's are?
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 09:48 AM
  #7  
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factory air boxes are designed well for your power level.
If you get custom turbos, like you say the intakes will have to be changed. I would wait unless you just like spending money twice on a intake.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 04:54 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by V12TTenthusiast
I don't have any issue with the current power, it's just some of the intakes I've been researching compromise 0-60 times but improve the power on the longer pulls. I'm trying to find something that can keep my starts the close to the same if not better and improve the pulls.

I'm hoping the LSD will solve some traction issues from the dig lol
What exactly are your goals? To be honest, a 0-60mph time is really a useless metric. Are you racing people from stop light to stop light? If you are and want great 0-60mph times, you might as well slap drag radials on your car because that would be the most effective mod you could do to improve traction.

If I were you I would invest in a pbox to measure your acceleration data and practice your launch technique rather than spending large amounts of money on band-aid fixes like an aftermarket LSD (since the SL65 comes with an LSD from AMG) when you are sending so 700+rwtq to two relative small rear tires.
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:03 PM
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My car ran 9.7 60-130..stock tune...that about right?
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ttboost
My car ran 9.7 60-130..stock tune...that about right?
yes your 60-130 and 1/4 mile time are in par
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ttboost
My car ran 9.7 60-130..stock tune...that about right?
What were the ambient conditions and slope during the run? When my CL65 (which was a little heavier than the SL65) was stock (515rwhp), it did 60-130mph in around 9.2s, but that was also on a 2% decline. When it had a Kleemann ECU tune (549rwhp), it did 8.45s in cool weather on the same decline. The SL65 also has a 2.82 rear while the CL65 had a 2.65, so the SL65 should be a little better geared. What sort of technique do you use on your run?
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by TMC M5
What were the ambient conditions and slope during the run? When my CL65 (which was a little heavier than the SL65) was stock (515rwhp), it did 60-130mph in around 9.2s, but that was also on a 2% decline. When it had a Kleemann ECU tune (549rwhp), it did 8.45s in cool weather on the same decline. The SL65 also has a 2.82 rear while the CL65 had a 2.65, so the SL65 should be a little better geared. What sort of technique do you use on your run?
I am very experienced with 60-130's. It really was my 1st try with this car. I almost ran out of road Major traction issues and around a corner too. Not very good conditions, but it was an opportunity, so I took it as I was curious.

Was about a 75deg day..not too muggy and it was a 1% incline. My car made 494/648 on a Mustang dyno, and ran 11.81 118 first time out. All of this was also with my very heavy 20" BBS CH-R's.

I just installed my EC flashes and haven't had a chance to check anything yet. Still trying to determine if my IC pump is good. Is is the original pump!!!??
Sorry to the OP. Not trying to pollute this thread..just answering questions.
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Old Oct 26, 2013 | 10:42 PM
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06 SL65AMG, 13 Tesla Model S 60kwh, 02 Jaguar S-Type 3.0, 12 S550 4 Matic, 07 E320 Bluetec, 06 LX470
Update on tuning SL65

So it's been awhile since I posted on this thread, been busy as hell but here's what I'm having done so far:

Custom 3 inch exhaust
Custom down pipes no cats,
Custom x pipes,
Hi flow mufflers,
Dual electric exhaust cutoffs,
(With v bands when I want to swap parts out like muffler, cats, etc)
Quaife LSD,
Lower Links (I'm 80% sure I want to do links over lowering module but I have a month left before the car gets the work done)
Adjustable Toe Links and Cambers (leaning towards MB Arts but need to do more research)

That's all the performance mods I can I do since I already have a dyno tune ECU/TCU upgrade from EC with there HE and IC pump

The car will go back for Turbo/Engine/Transmission upgrades at EC/DC after I do some aesthetic work like carbon fiber interior, 3 spoke steering wheel, color brake calipers and black series body kit.

The car was suppose to be done with the first set of upgrades a week ago until I bent 2 of my wheels on a pot hole so now I have to wait till Dec when I have time to leave it. Paul at EC/DC has the parts ready to go just need to leave my car for a week since the exhaust in the SL65 was crammed in there and they need to do make a lot of bends in the piping lol
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 08:19 AM
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WOW...sounds like quite an ambitious project. I was trying to make it to the track yesterday, but blew a coil getting on the highway..oh well, better there than after a 2hr+ ride to the track. I am changing both coil packs and all the plugs this week. Not sure if I can, but I think I can still make it to Etown this year...

I've since run an 8.16 60-130 on a 2.99% decline spinning from 40 to about 80 or so on street tires. I think with DR's, I can be in the mid 7's on the same decline, probably very high 7's on a flat road...not too many places where I live now to do it. Where I USED to live, I pretty much had my own private road.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by V12TTenthusiast
For cooling I already have a johnson pump and a HE from Eurocharged, will a trunk reservoir or bigger top mounted intercoolers help?
Are you using the CM30 pump? That's the smallest of the popular IC pumps, I'd recommend upgrading that. Which one? Pretty much anything.
Running the pump continuously will probably bring some worthwhile day-to-day benefits.
Nick
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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I just upgraded to the Bosch 010 pump myself. I've also read elsewhere here, that (in the 65 at least) once you get over 2000rpm, for 3 seconds, the pump stays on anyway.

Last edited by ttboost; Oct 27, 2013 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 10:01 AM
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Bosch 010 pump and stock pump.
Attached Thumbnails Need SL65 Tuning Advice pt 2-ic-pumps.jpg  
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 01:55 PM
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I just upgraded to the Bosch 010 pump myself. I've also read elsewhere here, that (in the 65 at least) once you get over 2000rpm, for 3 seconds, the pump stays on anyway.
Sure, but the metal pipe to the IC runs past the RHS turbocharger and exhaust manifold, so the water inside will get hot whenever the pump is off.
The pump takes a few seconds to move that water through the IC before it can begin cooling the IC with cooled water from the HE. It does work OK, but in mixed driving I think there are often lost opportunities while we have to wait for the IC's to be properly cooled.

The Bosch pumps only take a few amps, so intermittent duty isn't to save power or fuel. The Bosch pumps use commutators and brushes, so they only last for a couple of thousand hours before the brushes get worn out - that's what's being saved. If on-tap performance is more important than having the pump last a lifetime without replacement, then I'd suggest having it always on.

Alternatively there are pumps lke the Pierburg, VariMax and StuartEMP that use electronic commutators, and don't have any brushes. Alternatively, the Dayton, SURflow, Jabsco and Stuart Turner pumps are designed and marketed with routine maintenance in mind, with easily-replaced brushes and seals.
Originally Posted by ttboost
Bosch 010 pump and stock pump.
The Bosch 0392 022 002, 0392 022 003 and 0392 022 010 are nearly identical, with the latter having a bright metal impeller housing, and the former two having a black housing.

The pump on the right is one of the 0392 020 XXX family. Its a popular heater circulation pump, like the Davies Craig EBP-15 or Johnson CM10. It doesn't even make 1/4 bar, and should never be used as an IC pump.

Regards, Nick
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Sounds like solid work..

Originally Posted by V12TTenthusiast
So it's been awhile since I posted on this thread, been busy as hell but here's what I'm having done so far:

Custom 3 inch exhaust
Custom down pipes no cats,
Custom x pipes,
Hi flow mufflers,
Dual electric exhaust cutoffs,
(With v bands when I want to swap parts out like muffler, cats, etc)
Quaife LSD,
Lower Links (I'm 80% sure I want to do links over lowering module but I have a month left before the car gets the work done)
Adjustable Toe Links and Cambers (leaning towards MB Arts but need to do more research)

That's all the performance mods I can I do since I already have a dyno tune ECU/TCU upgrade from EC with there HE and IC pump

The car will go back for Turbo/Engine/Transmission upgrades at EC/DC after I do some aesthetic work like carbon fiber interior, 3 spoke steering wheel, color brake calipers and black series body kit.

The car was suppose to be done with the first set of upgrades a week ago until I bent 2 of my wheels on a pot hole so now I have to wait till Dec when I have time to leave it. Paul at EC/DC has the parts ready to go just need to leave my car for a week since the exhaust in the SL65 was crammed in there and they need to do make a lot of bends in the piping lol
Can you please take pix & explain what Dual Electric exhaust Cut-offs Brand name & source, MOST importantly how you made them fit I & countless others tried this path in the past. There's literally no room for Cut-outs UNLESS you mounted them further downstream to just bipass Muufflers? INMOP that's pointless as the ONLY performance & real nasty sound increase is to somehow mount Elec-Cutouts after Down Pipes & before aftermarket cats (zero room if using oem cats, & still will hang far too low if using aftermarket hi-flo cats like I do)
Though if you somehow found a new smaller feasable Electric cutout for area I'm talking about please, please, share.. Thank you

Last edited by Thericker; Oct 27, 2013 at 04:43 PM.
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Old Oct 27, 2013 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Thericker
Can you please take pix & explain what Dual Electric exhaust Cut-offs Brand name & source, MOST importantly how you made them fit I & countless others tried this path in the past. There's literally no room for Cut-outs UNLESS you mounted them further downstream to just bipass Muufflers? INMOP that's pointless as the ONLY performance & real nasty sound increase is to somehow mount Elec-Cutouts after Down Pipes & before aftermarket cats (zero room if using oem cats, & still will hang far too low if using aftermarket hi-flo cats like I do)
Though if you somehow found a new smaller feasable Electric cutout for area I'm talking about please, please, share.. Thank you
Im heading back to EC/DC on weds for some service work so I can ask Paul what cutouts he order, but I know what you mean. The exhaust is cramed underneath in the SL65 doesnt have much room until you get furtherdown. Paul will be posting before and after pics on the exhaust on EC once I leave the car but I can get you the make and brand and how the setup works later in the week
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 02:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ttboost
WOW...sounds like quite an ambitious project. I was trying to make it to the track yesterday, but blew a coil getting on the highway..oh well, better there than after a 2hr+ ride to the track. I am changing both coil packs and all the plugs this week. Not sure if I can, but I think I can still make it to Etown this year...

I've since run an 8.16 60-130 on a 2.99% decline spinning from 40 to about 80 or so on street tires. I think with DR's, I can be in the mid 7's on the same decline, probably very high 7's on a flat road...not too many places where I live now to do it. Where I USED to live, I pretty much had my own private road.
Very nice 60-130mph time!
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:00 PM
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Thought about meth/water injection for cooling?
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 03:09 PM
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I have another Aquamist kit sitting on the shelf, for just such a thing...

I also plan to insulate my IC's from the ambient engine bay heat.
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:20 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by ttboost
I have another Aquamist kit sitting on the shelf, for just such a thing...

I also plan to insulate my IC's from the ambient engine bay heat.
I think you should get a set of downpipes before you put a methanol kit, you will be surprised with the new found power!!!
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Old Oct 29, 2013 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by shardul
I think you should get a set of downpipes before you put a methanol kit, you will be surprised with the new found power!!!
Will a meth kit make any differance? Ive been hearing from people to not bother with that. As for downpipes, that I already checked off on my to do list
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