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New here so apologies if there are already similar threads like this. I see there are tons of threads regarding "how-to" on fixes but was hoping to get some tips on the biggest things to look for.
I am test driving a 2003 SL55 AMG later today. My biggest concern is that it very high mileage (157k). It's at a used car dealer that looks pretty respectable so no issues there. It's very good looking with no signs of rust, etc. My biggest question is should I just avoid this car or could there be some value left for a fun weekend car? Any tips on what I should look for or ask about? I'm hoping to get a warranty from the dealer but want to go in as prepared as possible so if you have any advice or wisdom I would appreciate it. This car is currently listed at $11k but I would offer less and hopefully settle around 10k depending on the feedback here.
Some background - this is the first SL55 I'm testing so I'm not familiar with what to look for. This would not be a my daily driver and would really only see play on nice weather weekends - maybe 2-4k miles a year at most and would sit inside year round. I can do most of the normal maintenance myself - pads/rotors, oil, etc. but would be out of my league with any big projects (engine/tranny swap, etc.) so really just want to made aware of any big issues or if they might have already been fixed on this high mileage car?
Thank you. I had researched a little on the ABC and yeah it sounds no fun. Is it too much of a job to put regular static coilovers on (especially considering 17-18 years old plumbing)? It sounds like it's tied into the power steering. 95% sure I'll keep looking for something lower mileage.
Thank you. I had researched a little on the ABC and yeah it sounds no fun. Is it too much of a job to put regular static coilovers on (especially considering 17-18 years old plumbing)? It sounds like it's tied into the power steering. 95% sure I'll keep looking for something lower mileage.
If you can find proof that the car has been maintained well than the higher mileage is not the deal breaker.
Simple check for the ABC system is pull the dip stick for the ABC level, check the fluid level with the engine running and off, bring a white linen or paper towel and make a strike off from the fluid that is on the ABC dip stick and check if the color is a clean transparent green, Dirty fluid will be brown, dark brown or black this will tell you if the ABC has had regular flushes or not, the transparent green = well maintained, means a car to consider.
Simple check for the Vario roof is to check the hydraulic fluid level in the truck DS under the rubber cover you'll find the pump which has transparent looking plastic reservoir attached which has "+" on the side of the body indicating the correct level of fluid that should be in that tank, if the fluid level is off the mark = sign of poor maintenance = if both checks are correct it indicates more than likely you are looking at a well cared for car, the higher mileage may give you a price advantage over a lesser miles car and it's my opinion these cars are meant to be driven and not sit around to be polished only.
Find a nice one and enjoy the ride
Last edited by Hendrik Koster; Mar 27, 2021 at 07:19 AM.
High probability of ABC costs on a car that old, anywhere from replacing the accumulators (about $1100) to full blown retool of system ($10k).
Better off looking for a 2007 with the revised ABC system coupled with lower mileage (75k miles or less) and supporting maintenance records. Budget low to mid $20's jmo.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
the revised ABC system on 07+ was more cost savings than anything else. It is no more reliable than the older system. The changes were as follows: accumulator moved from the pressure relief valve in the fender to on the pump, different hose configuration in the rear (and deleting of the return accumulator), and programming that instead of the locking valves closing when the car is running and at a stop it instead slowly puts fluid in/out of each strut. That's it. The hydraulic hoses have a lifespan that is a function of age/time. The reason people think the 07+ are more reliable is they hear less complaints from 07+ owners. Well this is purely because there were a ****load more 03/04 cars made and hardly any 07/08 cars. Newer cars also have less age.
If you buy any SL you need to budget at least 1k-2k per year for maintence and repairs. They are great, but expensive to maintain cars. That is why a car that cost 120k new can be had for 10k. The ABC suspension is why the way more expensive S class cars now sell for less than the originally lower priced E class cars that have airmatic. If you want a fun car get an E55.
If you don't have a very high end scan tool or STAR computer (what the dealers use) you're going to have a hard time diagnosing and doing a lot of work on any Mercedes of this era.
Having said all that I might be selling my 03 SL55 soon that has had all of the common (and expensive) issues already fixed. This is assuming I can find a SL65 I like (which I know will be even more $$$ to maintain, but I can't help myself)
Interesting assertion by Carguy, that 07/08 model ABC systems are no more "reliable" than the previous generation and that time will prove that out. They just need to age in order to demonstrate similar reliability problems. Huh? Believe it if you like, but note Carguy owns an older year SL55.
Aside from ABC reliability, there are many other reasons to seek out a newer model SL55, these include an improved intake and larger throttle body (= more hp and tq), larger wheels, revised exterior styling, 2 piece brake rotors, improved leather surfaces, etc...If all you can find is the older model, go for it, but for my money I decided to hold out for the newer model and am happy I did.
Good summary of differences can be found at the below address.
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
It’s not just aging out it’s the vastly higher early year production numbers. Look at how many 07/08 cars were built compared to 03-06. 7307 made with ABC 1 & 1047 made with ABC II. You’re going to naturally see 7 times as many problems bc there were 7 times as many built
Have you actually worked on both? I laid out the exact differences. Most part numbers are the same except the valve blocks on ABC 2 started using a different manufacturer and are NOT rebuildable, unlike the early cars. Most of the changes were cost saving changes. ABC 2 is not more reliable period. The pump is not more reliable the pulsation Dampener was just moved to it from the pressure relief valve.
I’d say the change to 2 piece rotors is a negative from a maintenance perspective as they are substantially more expensive. There’s also many things the video didn’t cover. The 04+ models used a larger ring gear in the diff and push in axles instead of bolt on. While the larger diff probably has more power holding capabilities the cost to upgrade to a limited slip is gonna be over 3 times more labor on the press vs bolt on. The 05+ had a revised rear window seal that leaks less (can be put on earlier models) as well as the switch from d2b fiber for the radio to MOST. For years only the MKST system had an adapter that made it easy to swap in a new headunit, but if you look at a post I started in another thread it appears there’s now one for d2b cars. There are many other differences too. Do your research. You’ll find most in the forums.
So my adventure began Dec 2019– I purchased my 2003 SL 55 (Kompressor) car with low miles about 55k for about $20k. Had my mechanic inspect it. Seem to be in great shape— took for several test runs and big huge smiles immediately. Figured I would put in another 5k for updates— interior, tires, radio etc— then loads of issues due to a 17 year old car basically sitting— transmission, supercharger, faulty ecu, intercooler pumps, roof hydraulics, etc— all the wonderful things you will read about in this forum. Note: this still has not changed my perception that this car is one of the sexiest best looking cars on the market. And the fact that when healthy it can still top over 170mph (fact). I knew my investment would be a “money pit” and a labor of love over time. The car has also been upgraded in certain area— if you are going to let it “run”. I upgraded the transmission, put in a 90mm throttle body, upgraded the headers, added an extra pump, added a killer chiller to keep it cool— and now due to the blown supercharger— adding a Whipple Supercharger from VRP. So would after all the BS would I recommend, yes but with an understanding your weekend car will be a constant high maintenance needy investment. But know when you are driving, top down, and moving at unlawful speeds— there is no car that will bring you bigger smiles. Let us know what you decide.
Porsche guy who drives SL63 w/ perf pkg AND perf suspension
you should take any used car to the dealer and have them inspect it, and tell you what it needs. And they can give the service history since it was new, from the mb dealers
Well..... you have to decide what you want. Personally, I enjoy "tinkering" and working on my cars. You have to remember these cars is almost 20 years old. I have 4 SL class cars ranging from 2003 to 2008 (SLK230, SLK 350, SL500 and SL55AMG). I enjoy working and driving each one of them. The ABC system does required maintenance... but, the ride is beyond compare. I recently dropped the front axle assembly out of the SL55 AMG because of a slight oil leak in the oil pan gasket. Replaced the oil pickup o-ring and oil pressure check valve. Also replace in the upper A-frame arms and ball joints with the new 2 pc style along with the motor and transmission mounts. The bottom line these car require TLC and maintenance. Almost every one of this vintage will have top hydraulic issues. If it doesn't..... it will!! Just the way it is. Most will develop some sort of vacuum pump issues.... but, an easy fix in most cases. I get a great deal of joy from keeping my cars in shape. To many people after the 3rd or 4th own abuse the cars and let maintenance deteriorate. You either need deep pockets or a love of the car and caring for them. They are head turners and a beautiful design..... but, like most things in life, come a cost! Personally..... I would rather buy a car with "issues" over one that does not appear to have any problems. In reality... they ALL do!!! but.... I love it!!!!
Good Luck,
Mark
Did you pickup your SL55?
I just picked up one in beginning of March. Bought the weistec sc SL55 that we’re posted by a couple of PO. Shipped to So Cal from GA, sight unseen. Upon delivery (6days later), I found a few issues. I’ll try to post em soon, but nothing too major which I can manage to resolve. No regret! Looking forward on projects. Good luck with yours!
the revised ABC system on 07+ was more cost savings than anything else. It is no more reliable than the older system. The changes were as follows: accumulator moved from the pressure relief valve in the fender to on the pump, different hose configuration in the rear (and deleting of the return accumulator), and programming that instead of the locking valves closing when the car is running and at a stop it instead slowly puts fluid in/out of each strut. That's it. The hydraulic hoses have a lifespan that is a function of age/time. The reason people think the 07+ are more reliable is they hear less complaints from 07+ owners. Well this is purely because there were a ****load more 03/04 cars made and hardly any 07/08 cars. Newer cars also have less age.
If you buy any SL you need to budget at least 1k-2k per year for maintence and repairs. They are great, but expensive to maintain cars. That is why a car that cost 120k new can be had for 10k. The ABC suspension is why the way more expensive S class cars now sell for less than the originally lower priced E class cars that have airmatic. If you want a fun car get an E55.
If you don't have a very high end scan tool or STAR computer (what the dealers use) you're going to have a hard time diagnosing and doing a lot of work on any Mercedes of this era.
Having said all that I might be selling my 03 SL55 soon that has had all of the common (and expensive) issues already fixed. This is assuming I can find a SL65 I like (which I know will be even more $$$ to maintain, but I can't help myself)
I'm in the category of complete DIY when it comes to these cars (currently rebuilding/replacing an S65 V12 engine for a friend of mine) I agree that without the SDS scan tool you'll have a hard time to keep them in top condition. The older the cars gets, most owners are less inclined to spend the $ at the dealers to maintain them, however I find that being able to care of my own cars I get to drive these cars that are way more fun to me than any ordinary vehicle out there.
I'm in the category of complete DIY when it comes to these cars (currently rebuilding/replacing an S65 V12 engine for a friend of mine) I agree that without the SDS scan tool you'll have a hard time to keep them in top condition. The older the cars gets, most owners are less inclined to spend the $ at the dealers to maintain them, however I find that being able to care of my own cars I get to drive these cars that are way more fun to me than any ordinary vehicle out there.
what’s your takes on doing coilovers on this platform? I got one dripping front strut and bunch of weeping hydraulic lines.
Seriously thinking to do BC coilovers. I’ve priced out parts on strut ($500), hydraulic fluid & filter ($200), unsure of cost to replace lines. Either way, coilovers would run $1k plus pump & reservoir ($75). My take is drop a $1k and be done with this 16 yo system.
what’s your takes on doing coilovers on this platform? I got one dripping front strut and bunch of weeping hydraulic lines.
Seriously thinking to do BC coilovers. I’ve priced out parts on strut ($500), hydraulic fluid & filter ($200), unsure of cost to replace lines. Either way, coilovers would run $1k plus pump & reservoir ($75). My take is drop a $1k and be done with this 16 yo system.
Agreed, DIY best route to enjoy these roadster!
I have only had one high pressure line failure on my 07 SL55 ( I noticed a little pentosin swetting while it was sitting in the garage) The line rebuild at the local hydraulic shop was $145 so therefore I'm not inclined to consider a change to coil overs.
I do flush (about 10 liters and rodeo) my ABC every 30k miles to make sure the color stays on the clear green side of my ABC fluid and I'm about to add and install magnetic filters to my ABC system as I believe preventive maintenance goes a long way in the life cycle of any hydraulic equipment, whether or not it's on a MB or Caterpillar industrial machinery.
What is the color of the fluid in your ABC reservoir?
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