SL55/63/65/R230 AMG: Source and p/n for ABC Shutoff Valves?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2021
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From: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
Source and p/n for ABC Shutoff Valves?
I'm having leakage at one of my ABC SOV's that I can't seem to stem after two try's. The seals are fine, no leakage at the strut or elsewhere, and even though the valve poppet and seat look fine to the naked eye, there must be a flaw as my while work has slowed the leak, it hasn't slowed it to what's describe in many posts as normal. And that RR corner definitely droops much faster that the other corners, coming down about an inch in an hour or less.
So my next step is to replace the valve. Rather than a shot gun approach with a used valve, I'm hoping to find one from a source that tests them. Needn't be a new part, but overhauled and tested if I can find one.
Any known sources? Does anyone know the part number? Or maybe someone in the community has one of known condition to sell me? PM please.
Thanks,
MK19
So my next step is to replace the valve. Rather than a shot gun approach with a used valve, I'm hoping to find one from a source that tests them. Needn't be a new part, but overhauled and tested if I can find one.
Any known sources? Does anyone know the part number? Or maybe someone in the community has one of known condition to sell me? PM please.
Thanks,
MK19
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 955
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From: Kansas
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
have you tried stretching the spring? that sometimes is the issue and the good news is you can remove the blocker valve while the valve block is still in the car to do that. if you buy new only the newer style block is available, which isn't rebuildable. it also is NOT plug and play for the rear as the hose configuration is different (the front is plug and play) and would require you buying extra hoses as well.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 271
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From: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
Thanks carguyshu……..you are always helpful. Yes, I stretched the springs when I re-sealed the rear valve block (seals looked fine too) and stretched the RED SOV for the RR even further a second time when the reseal had no effect - this changed nothing. Also, I noted that the pressure in the strut pushes the valve poppet into the seat, likely with far greater force than the spring. The spring is there to get it shut off far enough and fast enough that the corner can drop far and strut pressure can hold it there.
I did find a source on eBay "vtrading916" in CA. He has a great rating. He offers a valve block rebuild service at the following link but agreed to sell me SOV's too.
Now I'm wondering about the interaction between the corners and the front/rear? I've been focused on the RR, but am now considering that if the RF droops, then it must be lifting the LR thus making the LR/RR height different greater leading me to think the RR valve is leaking.
Is there a known troubleshooting procedures/suggestions??
Thanks,
MK
I did find a source on eBay "vtrading916" in CA. He has a great rating. He offers a valve block rebuild service at the following link but agreed to sell me SOV's too.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/322012687722?hash=item4af973ad6a:g:HWYAAOSwl9BWKW4 z
However now I'm just uncertain about my trouble shooting. The car dips about 1" on the right side, both front and back when the engine is turned off, but then seems to hold there indefinitely. It happens pretty quickly (maybe a minute or so). I measure ride height at the tops of the fender wheel arches.Now I'm wondering about the interaction between the corners and the front/rear? I've been focused on the RR, but am now considering that if the RF droops, then it must be lifting the LR thus making the LR/RR height different greater leading me to think the RR valve is leaking.
Is there a known troubleshooting procedures/suggestions??
Thanks,
MK
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Kansas
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
So you could be onto something. When the car shuts off it will try to do a leveling procedure. It might be that the left front is going up pushing the right rear down. It will open/close valves to try and get things to level, but that can sometimes backfire if there is a leak somewhere. If you have a STAR tool you can watch to see what ride level values are present and what it is doing when plugged in. The computer could be seeing the LF going up, so it tries to get pressure into the RR when it is already too late causing it to go down.
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From: Gretna, NE
'03 SL55 Black, '03 SL500's Aegean, Mars Red, Tazanite, Alabaster, '11 S550 Flint Gray
If you have a valve issue, it is probably the control valve, not the blocking valve. As alluded to above, the blocking valves do not immediately engage on shutdown, so they would not prevent the motion you are seeing. The fact that the car level is stable longer term would also verify that the blocking valves are doing their job. Have you changed the seals in your control valves?
Thread Starter
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From: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
MikeJ and gurushu:
Both great suggestions.
I have changed the rear seals, but not yet the front (soon thought).
Your points about the blocking valves not closing right after the ignition is turned off is consistent with my observation that the car seems to drop a bit (maybe 1") when the ignition is turned off. So I gather that's when its leveling up or trying too.
However, after hunting for the solution to a CEL yesterday (See post re code P202B-002) the car is near level from an overnight rest with all wheel arch measurements within 1/4" or less. So I'll cross my fingers with hopes that things are now stable. If not that might indicate bad seals up front as I'd think that those leaks can be more erratic that the blocking valve leak in a clean system with 2-3 micron filtration. But I'll watch and see if after I turn off the engine and it settles in, and in particular to see if at that moment its level (I think I've done this before and found it was level). If not it would it suggest a bad control valve, or a bad seal at a control valve (probably more likely).
If it goes to far I'll have both valve blocks overhauled by the source noted above - pretty inexpensive really.
More to follow.
Both great suggestions.
I have changed the rear seals, but not yet the front (soon thought).
Your points about the blocking valves not closing right after the ignition is turned off is consistent with my observation that the car seems to drop a bit (maybe 1") when the ignition is turned off. So I gather that's when its leveling up or trying too.
However, after hunting for the solution to a CEL yesterday (See post re code P202B-002) the car is near level from an overnight rest with all wheel arch measurements within 1/4" or less. So I'll cross my fingers with hopes that things are now stable. If not that might indicate bad seals up front as I'd think that those leaks can be more erratic that the blocking valve leak in a clean system with 2-3 micron filtration. But I'll watch and see if after I turn off the engine and it settles in, and in particular to see if at that moment its level (I think I've done this before and found it was level). If not it would it suggest a bad control valve, or a bad seal at a control valve (probably more likely).
If it goes to far I'll have both valve blocks overhauled by the source noted above - pretty inexpensive really.
More to follow.
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Kansas
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
i don't think i'd pay them to overhaul. they are just gonna do the same thing you're doing, which is replace the o rings and stretch the spring. there's really not much else to do other than cleaning.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 271
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From: Rocky Mountains, Colorado
Just sold my '11 Porsche TurboS cab for an '03 SL55!
Agreed CGShu,
In fact I asked this eBay seller if his valves were tested and his reply was that, as you suggested, he checked the resistance and resealed them, but that "they could only be tested in the car". That of latter bit is of course makes his valves a crap shoot no better than buying from a dismantler. Being a long time aero hydraulics engineer, I know the latter to be false. Of course they can be tested, but testing requires a test rig (Pump, filter, reservoir etc.) and one needs at least some pass/fail specs. And a simple leak test can be conducted using compressed air, one would need to know what pressure to apply, and with air we'd be limited to lower pressures, but lower pressure puts less closing force on the poppet and would probably result in exaggerated leak rates on a bad valve. With a air pressured test you'd want some fluid at the valve sealing interface, and then a drip tube on the downstream side. Leakage is typically measured in drops per minute (something like 15 drops per cc, depending on fluid characteristics). Maybe I ought to go into the business??
I'm still experiencing sagging that's most prominent in the RR, about 1 to 1.5" difference left to right after an overnight rest. Not all that sure where I'm headed next not that I don't have a source of tested SO valves? Could I be looking at the wrong valve? I've been focused on the Red dot valve for the RR.
In fact I asked this eBay seller if his valves were tested and his reply was that, as you suggested, he checked the resistance and resealed them, but that "they could only be tested in the car". That of latter bit is of course makes his valves a crap shoot no better than buying from a dismantler. Being a long time aero hydraulics engineer, I know the latter to be false. Of course they can be tested, but testing requires a test rig (Pump, filter, reservoir etc.) and one needs at least some pass/fail specs. And a simple leak test can be conducted using compressed air, one would need to know what pressure to apply, and with air we'd be limited to lower pressures, but lower pressure puts less closing force on the poppet and would probably result in exaggerated leak rates on a bad valve. With a air pressured test you'd want some fluid at the valve sealing interface, and then a drip tube on the downstream side. Leakage is typically measured in drops per minute (something like 15 drops per cc, depending on fluid characteristics). Maybe I ought to go into the business??
I'm still experiencing sagging that's most prominent in the RR, about 1 to 1.5" difference left to right after an overnight rest. Not all that sure where I'm headed next not that I don't have a source of tested SO valves? Could I be looking at the wrong valve? I've been focused on the Red dot valve for the RR.
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Super Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 955
Likes: 127
From: Kansas
2003 E55, 2003 SL55, 2014 CLS63, 2018 q50 Redsport, 1968 Camaro SS, 1999 Trans am Firehawk
well it looks like there are individual part numbers for the valves. check out page 31 https://www.abcspecialist.nl/uploads..._watermark.pdf
