SLK/R170: New SLK owner - 1st 2 questions
I recently purchased (on eBay!!) a 1998 SLK230, 81000 miles for 13.5K (+ship from Fla to Indy). I'm very happy to find this list and hope to gleen all sorts of information from its' members. And maybe one day, I'll have advice to offer back.
After having my requisite 'Service A' at the local "discount" MB shop for $200, and paying $300 to have my 2 belts replaced, I've come to the conclusion that I will need to do a few of the things this otherwise very fun car needs.
To that end, two items for the assenbled brain trust with thanks in advance for your collective wisdom.
1. The shop wanted $180 to replace a dash light bulb specifically the one that illuminates the fan switch and drivers temperature wheel. Can it really be THAT difficult? I'd appreciate advice on how to get at that part of the dash to replace this $1 bulb.
2. I was informed that my front brakes are down to 5% and the rotors should be replaced. It seems to me with a floor jack, the correct replacement rotors & pads and an a couple of hours one weekend afternoon, I can do this myself, no?
I should tell you that I'm not a 'wrench monkey' but I do most of the maintenence on my '84 Honda VF1100 motorcycle, so I'm not afriad to save a buck or two (hundred).
Again, thanks for letting me join your club. I look forward to your suggestions.
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by WB9AXO; Sep 15, 2006 at 07:51 PM.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...eater-fan.html
Brakes , when I did mine
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...rs-repost.html
Bazzle
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...eater-fan.html
Brakes , when I did mine
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...rs-repost.html
Bazzle

Can't offer any advice on the bulb, but the brakes are extremely easy to replace. The only problem I had with my 1999 model was that the brake disk mated, via rust, to the front hub. It took a special chemical to remove the rust, but the rest of the brake replacement process was very easy.
Where possible I'd suggest you purchase your parts from vendors on the internet; there are a large number of OEM vendors.
Good luck!
I'll be installing Brembo discs from DRT and Porterfield R4-S pads in the near future with a little help from a buddy that has experience. I haven't done much work on a car since high school back in the 70's.

Cheers,
Chris
But first, you should actually check the brakes for yourself. Unless they're heavily scored, the rotors may not even need replacing. And who knows how much pad thickness is actually left? (I guess I'm from Missouri at heart: "Show me." Then I'll believe it.)
(I won't tell you how easy the belts are, because it would hurt too much...)
Last edited by page62; Sep 17, 2006 at 10:28 AM.
Well, if I had discovered these forums (MBWorld & BenzWorld) sooner, I would've done the belts myself. Back in the day I changed the serpentine belt on my '79 Mustang 5.0 in about 5 minutes. I just assumed it would be much harder on this car. Obviously that assumtion cost me $300!!
As far as the brakes go, the mechanic pointed out a rather distinct ridge around the edge of the rotor surface and said new pads alone would just get "chewed up real fast".
Cheers,
Chris
1998 SLK230
1984 VF1100S
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All rotors do that. The ridge is the portion of the rotor where the pads don't touch it. Therefore, that portion does not wear, while the rest of the rotor surface wears down. And the next set of pads won't touch that portion either. Ergo, no chewed up brake pads.
Check on this with Bruce R. over on the other forum. He's very knowledgable about brakes.
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