So are these reflective housings (front/back) in use with the LED? How do they look when flashing?

 

Let me see if I can get a short vid.

 

ordered some #1 spring pads for the front to fix my reverse rake. I need my rake for cleaning the leaves in my yard, not on my car.

 

At 106,500ish changed the fuel filter. Fuel pump had been humming pretty good. With the dealership I bought it from having tossed ALL service records and lying about it, I figured it was due.

After initial startup, a 2 mile run with heavy throttling, I believe the pump has quieted down. The old was Mercedes equipment but not original clamps as expected. That made the swap easier.

 

Not long after purchasing my car, 2.5 years ago, I noticed the roof drip moldings would sort of cloud up. I could polish them and they would clear up rather nicely. A couple of years later, they got worse, and wouldn't polish out as well. Then, my windshield needed replacing which necessitated the removal and replacement of the strips. The trauma of the R&R caused the clear to totally fail on top of the Brilliant Silver paint.

I thought about having them painted, but decided against it and just purchased new, pre-painted OE strips. I'm sure I could have had them painted more cheaply, but I didn't want to the hassle of going that route. I also replaced the seals that attach under the drip molding strips and run down the A-Pillar along the sides of the windshield. While I had access, I also replaced the upper molding that runs horizontally along the top of the windshield. It is like the other black, anodized molding on the car that turns a sandy, bronze color.

If anyone is interested in parts numbers, I will be happy to post them. Of course, your car has to be Brilliant Silver for the part numbers to match for the roof drip moldings.

 

ddb, I enjoy the attention to detail you put onto your car. How much was the black trim price you replaced? I am debating repainting all of mine windows windshields etc but it seems like a PITA to remove and reinstall. the individual pieces were high combined the last time I checked.

 

Hey TG, thanks.

The part number for that upper trim piece is: 210-670-09-22, and was $70.30. It is easy to remove once you remove the roof strips, which aren't terribly difficult to remove.4

The 4 side window strips are relatively simple to remove. You do have to remove the B-pillar covers first, which is easy. The B-pillar covers however are fiddly to put back on.

The vertical side strips towards the rear of the back windows are a problem. I thought I could pop off the rear door panels and have access to the fasteners that hold them on. Unfortunately, the fasteners are behind what I believe to be rear door airbag modules which are held on with rivets. I have a new set and will try to get them in this winter.

I also have the replacement trim that goes around the rear window. I've found very little about replacing these pieces (I can't remember if it is 2 or 3 pieces). I have read that you may not be able to get the new pieces in without removing the rear glass. So I've done nothing just yet. I may consult with a glass installation company at some point. I plasti-dipped the rear glass and vertcal strip trim until I get the new pieces in. It isn't glossy like the new windshield header piece and new side window strips, but they look better than the faded, discolored look.

Yea, the side and rear pieces are pricey. Painting or powder coating your existing pieces seems like the way to go. I looked unsuccessfully for someone to re-anodize my original pieces a while back. Whatever you do, it makes a huge difference in the appearance of the car, IMO. Let us know which route you take.

 

so the prepainted roof trims are $70 ea? If so that's pretty inexpensive. I just replaced mine along with the side mirror covers from my neighbor's totalled low mileage car before he donated it for a grand total of $0.

 

@ desired_speeds

I think the piece he is referring to is the the black Hematite horizontal trim piece that stretches horizontally across. Most all of ours are purple now.

@ ddb


Thanks for the part and price.

I have received quotes to have all of those trim pieces painted on car for about $125-$150. The issue is that I fear that they will chip away over time and that there is the rubber trim seals underneath the front and back pieces that would be hard to tape off cleanly.

The powder coat route is about the same price, but I have to remove them and deliver. Even if I buy a set from fleebay and have it done and swap, it would be cheaper than buying from MB, though there are plastic cap pieces on the ends of the window pieces so I am not sure how that works with powder coat. I could do a black chrome or similar.

I found a place locally that would actually would re - Hematite but they as expected are a little more than powder coat and again remove and deliver.

I think the route I may try is to have them vinyl wrapped and hopefully it can be done without cutting/damaging the seals. I dont think I have seen anyone do it here on the boards on our W210. I have carbon fiber vinyl for the A pillar trim piece that already has the faux carbon fiber which I may do myself for fun.

On the rear glass, I think that it is 2 pieces if I remember EPC correctly and it has those small cap pieces and underneath is a screw while the rest are clips. I think its pry the cap pieces and go from there.

I am working on replacing my windshield currently so Ill ask the glass company as well to see if the know about the small window trim in the rears.

I am having a annoyingly hard time battling door dings and such so the cosmetic costs of this car is adding up and my OCD is being tested lol. You know whatever Ill do ill post

 

Actually was Friday night but anyways, I cleaned/cleared up my headlights. Looking pretty rough so I bought the low end Turtle wax headlight restore kit. It took a lot if work but still, not as good as they should be.

Searched online, tried the toothpaste method. It seemed to work and finish the job. I used the 2 wipes from the kit to clean and them put a protective coat on the lens. This morning in daylight, they look really good and clean.

 

Had the resonator and second cats removed and a magnaflow x-pipe installed the other week. Also, discovered that my primary cats are completely empty...check engine light came on because of this and instead of putting new cats in my mechanic suggested we try a little experiment that sometimes lets us "beat" the system and run cat-less. So, I just had O2 sensor spacers installed on the downstream O2 sensors (removes them from the direct exhaust stream by about 1") and I've gone about 200 miles and no check engine light is on!! Seems like the spacers may work!! The sound gets better each week too!

 

I took a picture.

 

The best results I have achieved have been with a kit with some conjunction of your cordless drill. I used the 3M kit the first time which requires a follow up of polishing pad and plastic polish 9 months to a year later if you don't use a protectant or else you'll see a yellowish sheen. DP Headlight Restoration Kit looks interesting with a wool polishing pad.

 

Nice pic. Have you replaced the front spring pads in this pic?

 

not yet. plan to try and get it done soon.

 

Nice

 

Rear lower control arm bushings and subframe bushings. Actually started it Saturday and finished it after work tonight. What a great improvement, I definitely won't wait 230k again.

Steve

 

How are is it as a diy job and you just buy the bushings from the dealer? I'm just curious and would like to do mine come spring😊

 

Honestly I say it was fairly easy, I ran into a problem with one of the rear mounts being stuck because of rust witch made it more of a difficult job. I used no factory tools and I bought lemforda mounts. Hope this helps.

Steve

 

LED gauge cluster upgrade and pixel repair at the same time.

 

Looks nice, mitsumark! Nice low mileage too!

 

My car has a wicked sense of humor. One step forward, two back.

Just finished doing the Aux Input to my Becker 6003. Well worth the effort, couldn't be happier. Added a Kenevo BTC455 Bluetooth Puck at the same time. The first one had a defective 3.5mm jack. Even though I bought through Amazon Kenevo Customer Service overnighted me a replacement along with a return shipping label. Nothing but good things to say about the service or performance for their product. Also installed an Alpine PDX 600.1 and a 10" RE SEx that I had sitting in storage to remedy the abysmal lack of low end in the Bose. Its a bit over kill, but nothing succeeds like excess!

Also about 500mi ago I was getting the Check engine/Limp mode anytime I tried WOT. A new TPS Sensor cleared that problem fairly easily. Did the first service since I bought the car (Mobil 1 and Mann filter) at the same time. Of course the car hates this and has started rewarding me with the ABS/ETS lights about 50% of the time. Need to replace the brake switch when I get some spare time. Still love the car, it just seems to be displaying all the common little 210 problems all at once.

Been meaning to chime in for awhile, but finally had some Interwebs time to kill. Cheers all!

 

@OOgsAggie Where did you get the TPS Sensor from? Hard to install? My car has the same issue.

 

Well knowing the schizophrenic nature of our cars and reading up on the problem and possible solutions I just picked one from a reputable seller on EBAY. I was happy enough to buy a new one (PN: 0125423317), but bought a takeoff for $30 shipped just to make sure it was actually the problem. Took literally 10 min to put in, and I would classify myself only slightly above average mechanically. Been working flawlessly ever since, so moved on to more annoying matters. Though I can say it sucked owning such a fun car and not being able to nail it when I felt like it. Best $30 I have spent on the car! Cheers!

 

The easiest repair I have done to perhaps any car.

Here is what it looks like, once you take a couple of bolts out the top comes off, you replace the bottom portion (the actual TPS): https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...nsor-tps-1.jpg

I couldn't find any info on it, but for anyone who has done this, how tight did you tighten the cable?