chiromikey

the car doesn't monitor ride height...it simply reads a voltage whether it's stock or lowered (fooled) by washers, links, or elm.

i'll believe you about the handling since i don't believe my car can handle to begin with.

jangy

Just put a set of rears in the front and it will at least hold a curve. In the end, we all drive a boat.....

chiromikey

amen!

prodigymb

from what i have been told by shops and mb dealers that installed elms and links, is that all of them do the same thing. they fool the computer into thinking it's at a diffferent height by modifying the voltage signals going to it. IMHO paying a 1000$ for that is weaksauce, i do see the option that puts a display in your car and lets you raise the car and lower without fiddling with the module useful. in the end washers are cheap, reversible, i used locktite for a peace of mind. i am planning on a elm with a control but there are things i wanted before it (tune, pulley, wheels, TB, replace shotty audio system) and the washers are temp hack/fix

jangy

Not even close. AGAIN!!!! God, I wish those that cared paid attention. Links and washers DO NOT modify the voltage. they move the sensor so that it must shift to maintain its happy voltage. In the end, the car thinks the car is at stock height but it isn't.


It all comes to this. are you dropping it for looks or performance? If performance and you are using washers, then check yourself because either you are actually shallow ro are making a huge mistake.

prodigymb

washers and links physically fool the sensor to make the control module lower the car, but how does that happen? voltage ! car gets a higher reading than it should "thinks" it's too high and lowers it self. modules do the same thing, except isntead of physcially moving the sensor they alter the sensors' voltage signal that are sent to the ecu to once again make the car think it's higher and lower it self.....that is why you have to tap into all 3 sensors.

i am not shallow but i won't easily fall for manufacturers claims about ELMs.

hook your car up to dealer star on a MB allignment rack and check the voltage readouts of sensors on your car, measure the height from ground to fender, disconnect ELM, lower the car using star to that same exact height, compare voltage values and they will be different. because once you disconnect star you will get car to low message and it will raise back up.

how are the cars with modules able to bypass the "car too low" message, i would assume it's because the car doesnt "know" it's too low?

and my car is lowered for the sex appeal hehe. in my opinion this car has absolutely NO potential to handle well and the lack of available aftermarket components (sway bars, braces, tower bars etc) doesnt help ....not to mention that it weighs over 4000 pounds.

itsmeek

Ever heard of loctite

RenntechE55

ok so i dont have my car in front of me but been reading this for a bit now and wondering if i can take the bolt that holds the sensor and switch it to a longer bolt so more thread is exposed so the nut is not at the end of the bolt for more safety. I'll be looking tomorrow so i have a more clear understanding of the sensor.

bassn_07

The blue stuff works well.

John V.

I actually started my business with this thread. After reading it and playing around with my CL back in the day.

The washer method does work for the front if you just wanna lower it a bit. Any more and you have to pop the sensor bracket off, grind the old bolt off cause its welded on to it and then replace it with a longer 1. With that you can put more washers on and still have lots of thread so the bolt wont come off. Now the hard part, rear. On all Mercedes you have to shorten the Link to lower it. Was just looking threw my computer but couldn't find any pics of how I did it. Was really M.M. Ended up unbolting the stud that the link attaches to, attaching a metal strap to the bracket with nylon bolts and then put the stud on the other end of the strap. Would use about a 1" strap. Leaving the bolt just snug on there for now would alllow the sensor arm to hang down and spin 180 dergress. After doing that the level was way off. Had to move the car a bit and then reach underneth to pivot the sensor arm to get the height I wanted.

All in all the method did work but........... just took way too long. To do the whole process would take almost 4 hrs. Now you can see why I invented the my Fully Adjustable Lowering Links. Can literally lower the car in 20 min and return it back to stock, totally indetected, just as fast.

III II I I AMG

what exactly is this kit that you invented and how does it work

John V.

Check out my site to help you understand better. There are pictures of each Lowering Kit for each vehicle I can do in the gallery section.

RenntechE55

I did the washer lowering yesterday only used 3.2mm of washers to lower and used red lock tight there was still thread at top of the bold i think it looks a lot better

jangy

Guys!!

We have two topics that anyone wanting to lower an Airmatic car needs to be clear on.

One is if the ELNs "work" better than mechanical sensor adjustment (washers or links). Some say the ELNs are critical (myself included) and some say it is the same (those that don't run ELNs). Make up your own mind. The difference is in handling for me.

Second, and MOST important, is using washers with the current bolt. I am seeing more and more loctite threads. Do you guys not understand the design of that nut and bolt? The nut is OVAL and the bolt is taperred off. Can you put a small washer in and still be able to TQ down the nut? Yes, but it can rip loose. It is not caused by the vibrations but by a jarring (potholes) incident. Loctite will do NOTHING in that case.

If you choose to modify your links (washers, etc.) PLEASE do it safely and don't just make assumptions based on this thread.

liquiddi

I used the blue loctite and 3 washers on each side and I have been good to go for a month now. It's a neat little cheap trick. I like it.

JoeVal

My 2 cents: a) There are precision washers at any industrial or automotive fasteners store. I'd use brass or aluminum, over stainless, just in case I have to grind them off.

b) I would also replace the bolt if, after the spacers are in place, it cannot engage past the top nut by at least one and 1/2 threads. Use a longer bolt with a tensile strength #7 or higher (just take the sample to the store or read the number or marks on the head).

c) Loctite is good, but make sure you use after you know you are happy with the setup. The blue when it cures will need a torch heat to loosen, and the red is no picnic either.

It all looks sound, specially since nobody had anything negative to report since 2003. Awesome wheels. enjoy them.

jgdynamics

nice, im going to try this mod on my cousins 05 e500 tomorrow... wish me luck,

taurran

I just did my fronts the other day, and it was simple. I threw in four washers at first but decided to back it off to 3 because it was slammed a bit much for the wheels I have on the car.

To all the naysayers - I mean, really... you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill. You're just spacing out a bolt on a non load bearing part, which in effect adjusts the suspension in the same manner a lowering module will. The only difference is that you're making the change manually instead of electronically. As long as the installer is smart enough to thread and tighten down the nut so it doesn't just fall off while driving, then it'll be fine. It's so easy a caveman could do it.

efivefiveamg

Anyone know a good place (or anyone want to personally help me) in Irvine to get this done to my E55? I'm only looking for a very modest drop front and rear.

Triple.Sevens

Best. mod. evar. Took 30 minutes all I needed was a jack! Now on to the rears.

Ali_E55

why not using STAR ?

i didn't lowerd my car

but most of my friend did it using STAr and they are satisified. no problems or anything and the shop do it for them sor about $50 only.

3 settings will be changed.

i think using STAR easier and safer

unless you have other thoughts.

Triple.Sevens

You clearly haven't tried it, you'll be so upset that you spent the extra money when you find out how simple the concept is. Of course I'm the kind of guy that changes his own oil so...

Ali_E55

i like to do things alone

but i don't have STAR

i feel the ride is nice when im in their cars.

i don't think i will lower my car ^_^ i like to keep my car stock from outside

B on my Benz

hey, can you post pictures of your e55. I want to see them. Will this ruin the car at all??

evoklr

On the front, I used a 5mm thick nut instead of a stack of washers in the front. Red Loctited the nut on top. The rear sensor bracket was lowered maybe 2mm by dremeling/extending the oem mounting hole. There is a tread of how to do it. Didnt think it would work, but it lowered the rear maybe an inch. Been this way for a year with no issues, rides the same as stock to me. I dont think an ELM can make it feel $1500 better, plus there is no reason to ever raise it up from this on a daily basis, if you do encounter a steep driveway, the normal raise button still works.
At least try it, its free!!