Lower your E55 by 20mm/ 0.8" for 80 cents!
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,649
Likes: 207
'03 E55, Range Rover Sport Supercharged, Ducati 748R
the car doesn't monitor ride height...it simply reads a voltage whether it's stock or lowered (fooled) by washers, links, or elm.
i'll believe you about the handling since i don't believe my car can handle to begin with.
i'll believe you about the handling since i don't believe my car can handle to begin with.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13,394
Likes: 6
From: San Diego
2015 S212
the car doesn't monitor ride height...it simply reads a voltage whether it's stock or lowered (fooled) by washers, links, or elm.
Slow down. You are making my point for me. Lets drop the ELM one for now, since it is a digital platform that is deeper than the washers.
The voltage is only the signal that the computer looks for. So, you can have an OEM car and a washer lowered car sitting side by side and both will read the same voltage (i.e. the computer in both thinks the same thing). That is actually my point. Once you start adding weight transfer dynamics, why would it be so silly of me to say that the washered car will NOT act as it was designed? Either way, I'm done. I've played with it for years and even wasted a few shocks along the way. If people wanna use washers, more power to them.
i'll believe you about the handling since i don't believe my car can handle to begin with.
Slow down. You are making my point for me. Lets drop the ELM one for now, since it is a digital platform that is deeper than the washers.
The voltage is only the signal that the computer looks for. So, you can have an OEM car and a washer lowered car sitting side by side and both will read the same voltage (i.e. the computer in both thinks the same thing). That is actually my point. Once you start adding weight transfer dynamics, why would it be so silly of me to say that the washered car will NOT act as it was designed? Either way, I'm done. I've played with it for years and even wasted a few shocks along the way. If people wanna use washers, more power to them.
i'll believe you about the handling since i don't believe my car can handle to begin with.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 3
From: Philly
997TT, C192 GT63, W464 G550, MS Plaid
from what i have been told by shops and mb dealers that installed elms and links, is that all of them do the same thing. they fool the computer into thinking it's at a diffferent height by modifying the voltage signals going to it. IMHO paying a 1000$ for that is weaksauce, i do see the option that puts a display in your car and lets you raise the car and lower without fiddling with the module useful. in the end washers are cheap, reversible, i used locktite for a peace of mind. i am planning on a elm with a control but there are things i wanted before it (tune, pulley, wheels, TB, replace shotty audio system) and the washers are temp hack/fix
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13,394
Likes: 6
From: San Diego
2015 S212
It all comes to this. are you dropping it for looks or performance? If performance and you are using washers, then check yourself because either you are actually shallow ro are making a huge mistake.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 3
From: Philly
997TT, C192 GT63, W464 G550, MS Plaid
Not even close. AGAIN!!!! God, I wish those that cared paid attention. Links and washers DO NOT modify the voltage. they move the sensor so that it must shift to maintain its happy voltage. In the end, the car thinks the car is at stock height but it isn't.
It all comes to this. are you dropping it for looks or performance? If performance and you are using washers, then check yourself because either you are actually shallow ro are making a huge mistake.
It all comes to this. are you dropping it for looks or performance? If performance and you are using washers, then check yourself because either you are actually shallow ro are making a huge mistake.
i am not shallow but i won't easily fall for manufacturers claims about ELMs.
hook your car up to dealer star on a MB allignment rack and check the voltage readouts of sensors on your car, measure the height from ground to fender, disconnect ELM, lower the car using star to that same exact height, compare voltage values and they will be different. because once you disconnect star you will get car to low message and it will raise back up.
how are the cars with modules able to bypass the "car too low" message, i would assume it's because the car doesnt "know" it's too low?
and my car is lowered for the sex appeal hehe. in my opinion this car has absolutely NO potential to handle well and the lack of available aftermarket components (sway bars, braces, tower bars etc) doesnt help ....not to mention that it weighs over 4000 pounds.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,070
Likes: 1
From: D.C. METRO AREA
Nissan GT-R cobb/midpipe/ic piping/wastegate actuators/tials
I have heard horror stories about washer lowering on airmatics. The washer doesnt allow the bolt to lock on and in the end the bolt comes off and your suspension drops to the ground. My buddy did this and he heard about this issue and made the change just in time. The bolt was loose and it if came off the entire assembly would have failed. This type of lowering have been around for a while and there is a reason why its not so popular.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 0
From: Tempe, Az
CLS55 AMG 030
ok so i dont have my car in front of me but been reading this for a bit now and wondering if i can take the bolt that holds the sensor and switch it to a longer bolt so more thread is exposed so the nut is not at the end of the bolt for more safety. I'll be looking tomorrow so i have a more clear understanding of the sensor.
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Former Vendor of MBWorld
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver B.C.
2007 CLK63 Cab
I actually started my business with this thread. After reading it and playing around with my CL back in the day.
The washer method does work for the front if you just wanna lower it a bit. Any more and you have to pop the sensor bracket off, grind the old bolt off cause its welded on to it and then replace it with a longer 1. With that you can put more washers on and still have lots of thread so the bolt wont come off. Now the hard part, rear. On all Mercedes you have to shorten the Link to lower it. Was just looking threw my computer but couldn't find any pics of how I did it. Was really M.M. Ended up unbolting the stud that the link attaches to, attaching a metal strap to the bracket with nylon bolts and then put the stud on the other end of the strap. Would use about a 1" strap. Leaving the bolt just snug on there for now would alllow the sensor arm to hang down and spin 180 dergress. After doing that the level was way off. Had to move the car a bit and then reach underneth to pivot the sensor arm to get the height I wanted.
All in all the method did work but........... just took way too long. To do the whole process would take almost 4 hrs. Now you can see why I invented the my Fully Adjustable Lowering Links. Can literally lower the car in 20 min and return it back to stock, totally indetected, just as fast.
The washer method does work for the front if you just wanna lower it a bit. Any more and you have to pop the sensor bracket off, grind the old bolt off cause its welded on to it and then replace it with a longer 1. With that you can put more washers on and still have lots of thread so the bolt wont come off. Now the hard part, rear. On all Mercedes you have to shorten the Link to lower it. Was just looking threw my computer but couldn't find any pics of how I did it. Was really M.M. Ended up unbolting the stud that the link attaches to, attaching a metal strap to the bracket with nylon bolts and then put the stud on the other end of the strap. Would use about a 1" strap. Leaving the bolt just snug on there for now would alllow the sensor arm to hang down and spin 180 dergress. After doing that the level was way off. Had to move the car a bit and then reach underneth to pivot the sensor arm to get the height I wanted.
All in all the method did work but........... just took way too long. To do the whole process would take almost 4 hrs. Now you can see why I invented the my Fully Adjustable Lowering Links. Can literally lower the car in 20 min and return it back to stock, totally indetected, just as fast.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 702
Likes: 0
From: orlando/hk/mainland china
2003 e55
I actually started my business with this thread. After reading it and playing around with my CL back in the day.
The washer method does work for the front if you just wanna lower it a bit. Any more and you have to pop the sensor bracket off, grind the old bolt off cause its welded on to it and then replace it with a longer 1. With that you can put more washers on and still have lots of thread so the bolt wont come off. Now the hard part, rear. On all Mercedes you have to shorten the Link to lower it. Was just looking threw my computer but couldn't find any pics of how I did it. Was really M.M. Ended up unbolting the stud that the link attaches to, attaching a metal strap to the bracket with nylon bolts and then put the stud on the other end of the strap. Would use about a 1" strap. Leaving the bolt just snug on there for now would alllow the sensor arm to hang down and spin 180 dergress. After doing that the level was way off. Had to move the car a bit and then reach underneth to pivot the sensor arm to get the height I wanted.
All in all the method did work but........... just took way too long. To do the whole process would take almost 4 hrs. Now you can see why I invented the my Fully Adjustable Lowering Links. Can literally lower the car in 20 min and return it back to stock, totally indetected, just as fast.
The washer method does work for the front if you just wanna lower it a bit. Any more and you have to pop the sensor bracket off, grind the old bolt off cause its welded on to it and then replace it with a longer 1. With that you can put more washers on and still have lots of thread so the bolt wont come off. Now the hard part, rear. On all Mercedes you have to shorten the Link to lower it. Was just looking threw my computer but couldn't find any pics of how I did it. Was really M.M. Ended up unbolting the stud that the link attaches to, attaching a metal strap to the bracket with nylon bolts and then put the stud on the other end of the strap. Would use about a 1" strap. Leaving the bolt just snug on there for now would alllow the sensor arm to hang down and spin 180 dergress. After doing that the level was way off. Had to move the car a bit and then reach underneth to pivot the sensor arm to get the height I wanted.
All in all the method did work but........... just took way too long. To do the whole process would take almost 4 hrs. Now you can see why I invented the my Fully Adjustable Lowering Links. Can literally lower the car in 20 min and return it back to stock, totally indetected, just as fast.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 13,394
Likes: 6
From: San Diego
2015 S212
Guys!!
We have two topics that anyone wanting to lower an Airmatic car needs to be clear on.
One is if the ELNs "work" better than mechanical sensor adjustment (washers or links). Some say the ELNs are critical (myself included) and some say it is the same (those that don't run ELNs). Make up your own mind. The difference is in handling for me.
Second, and MOST important, is using washers with the current bolt. I am seeing more and more loctite threads. Do you guys not understand the design of that nut and bolt? The nut is OVAL and the bolt is taperred off. Can you put a small washer in and still be able to TQ down the nut? Yes, but it can rip loose. It is not caused by the vibrations but by a jarring (potholes) incident. Loctite will do NOTHING in that case.
If you choose to modify your links (washers, etc.) PLEASE do it safely and don't just make assumptions based on this thread.
We have two topics that anyone wanting to lower an Airmatic car needs to be clear on.
One is if the ELNs "work" better than mechanical sensor adjustment (washers or links). Some say the ELNs are critical (myself included) and some say it is the same (those that don't run ELNs). Make up your own mind. The difference is in handling for me.
Second, and MOST important, is using washers with the current bolt. I am seeing more and more loctite threads. Do you guys not understand the design of that nut and bolt? The nut is OVAL and the bolt is taperred off. Can you put a small washer in and still be able to TQ down the nut? Yes, but it can rip loose. It is not caused by the vibrations but by a jarring (potholes) incident. Loctite will do NOTHING in that case.
If you choose to modify your links (washers, etc.) PLEASE do it safely and don't just make assumptions based on this thread.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 312
Likes: 2
C350 Elegance
My 2 cents: a) There are precision washers at any industrial or automotive fasteners store. I'd use brass or aluminum, over stainless, just in case I have to grind them off.
b) I would also replace the bolt if, after the spacers are in place, it cannot engage past the top nut by at least one and 1/2 threads. Use a longer bolt with a tensile strength #7 or higher (just take the sample to the store or read the number or marks on the head).
c) Loctite is good, but make sure you use after you know you are happy with the setup. The blue when it cures will need a torch heat to loosen, and the red is no picnic either.
It all looks sound, specially since nobody had anything negative to report since 2003. Awesome wheels. enjoy them.
b) I would also replace the bolt if, after the spacers are in place, it cannot engage past the top nut by at least one and 1/2 threads. Use a longer bolt with a tensile strength #7 or higher (just take the sample to the store or read the number or marks on the head).
c) Loctite is good, but make sure you use after you know you are happy with the setup. The blue when it cures will need a torch heat to loosen, and the red is no picnic either.
It all looks sound, specially since nobody had anything negative to report since 2003. Awesome wheels. enjoy them.
Super Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 511
Likes: 2
From: Orlando, FL
04 E55 AMG, 03 350z Track Built/Single Turbo
I just did my fronts the other day, and it was simple. I threw in four washers at first but decided to back it off to 3 because it was slammed a bit much for the wheels I have on the car.
To all the naysayers - I mean, really... you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill. You're just spacing out a bolt on a non load bearing part, which in effect adjusts the suspension in the same manner a lowering module will. The only difference is that you're making the change manually instead of electronically. As long as the installer is smart enough to thread and tighten down the nut so it doesn't just fall off while driving, then it'll be fine. It's so easy a caveman could do it.
To all the naysayers - I mean, really... you guys are making a mountain out of a mole hill. You're just spacing out a bolt on a non load bearing part, which in effect adjusts the suspension in the same manner a lowering module will. The only difference is that you're making the change manually instead of electronically. As long as the installer is smart enough to thread and tighten down the nut so it doesn't just fall off while driving, then it'll be fine. It's so easy a caveman could do it.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 13
From: Abu Dhabi
C218 CLS63TT PP Edition1, W213 E63S
why not using STAR ?
i didn't lowerd my car
but most of my friend did it using STAr and they are satisified. no problems or anything and the shop do it for them sor about $50 only.
3 settings will be changed.
i think using STAR easier and safer
unless you have other thoughts.
i didn't lowerd my car
but most of my friend did it using STAr and they are satisified. no problems or anything and the shop do it for them sor about $50 only.
3 settings will be changed.
i think using STAR easier and safer
unless you have other thoughts.
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 63
Likes: 0
From: Bay Area, Cali
2005 SL500
why not using STAR ?
i didn't lowerd my car
but most of my friend did it using STAr and they are satisified. no problems or anything and the shop do it for them sor about $50 only.
3 settings will be changed.
i think using STAR easier and safer
unless you have other thoughts.
i didn't lowerd my car
but most of my friend did it using STAr and they are satisified. no problems or anything and the shop do it for them sor about $50 only.
3 settings will be changed.
i think using STAR easier and safer
unless you have other thoughts.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,484
Likes: 13
From: Abu Dhabi
C218 CLS63TT PP Edition1, W213 E63S
i like to do things alone
but i don't have STAR
i feel the ride is nice when im in their cars.
i don't think i will lower my car ^_^ i like to keep my car stock from outside
but i don't have STAR
i feel the ride is nice when im in their cars.
i don't think i will lower my car ^_^ i like to keep my car stock from outside
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Elgin, IL
something that can use more power
On the front, I used a 5mm thick nut instead of a stack of washers in the front. Red Loctited the nut on top. The rear sensor bracket was lowered maybe 2mm by dremeling/extending the oem mounting hole. There is a tread of how to do it. Didnt think it would work, but it lowered the rear maybe an inch. Been this way for a year with no issues, rides the same as stock to me. I dont think an ELM can make it feel $1500 better, plus there is no reason to ever raise it up from this on a daily basis, if you do encounter a steep driveway, the normal raise button still works.
At least try it, its free!!
At least try it, its free!!
Last edited by evoklr; Aug 25, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
