W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:28 AM
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If you dont want to get raped for hp,look inside

I see what you guys are paying for mods and im not to keen on dropping $10k for 100 hp.

Heres an idea I was begging DerekFSU about,a friend of mine makes methanol injection kits and has done them on Roots blown apps before (03-04 Cobra,SC 3800) www.alkycontrol.com

Hows $500-$600 sound for lower egt's and 30-40 hp vs $2k-$3k for the alternative??

My friend can make us a kit,all we have to do is get him a car to work with(Ft Laudedale area)

Meth injection is like runnning good gas and im sure you all run premium in your cars right???
Old 11-07-2005, 10:45 AM
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This is what I am working on testing right now.

Mine is an all-out kit with every bell & whistle. Some highlights are twin pumps, accumulator tank, blocked jet detection and all kinds of other electronic sensors/alarms, 3D mapping, constant Water/Fuel ratio throughout RPM band.

System looks like this:

Old 11-07-2005, 10:55 AM
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2003 E55 & 2014 GL550
Dear Mr Vrus,

We at NASA are well aware that we are "owned by the public", but helping yourself to parts off the Shuttle is not welcomed and highly frowned upon.

Please return the Solid Rocket Booster nozzle control circuitry as soon as possible.

Sincerely,

Your friends at NASA.

PS...we are also missing a few other internal circuitry boards from the robotic arm assembly....know anything about this? Let us know.


Last edited by Jakpro1; 11-07-2005 at 10:58 AM.
Old 11-07-2005, 11:02 AM
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Nice vrus but ever heard K.I.S.S.????Youre way to complicated and WAY to big.

BTW,water will never get injected into one of my motors,straight meth is the ONLY way to fly and make hp.

My firend has over 500 kits installed on various vehicles and really knows his **** BETTER THAN ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE,ANYONE.

And he races 2-3x a week with his product.

Like I said,$500-$600 for lower egt's and 30rwhp or $2k-$3k for the same(headers,pulley,or ecu)
Old 11-07-2005, 11:06 AM
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Those Ba$tard$... They copied my design.

BTW, just to set the record straight, THEY borrowed the solid rocket booster nozzle from ME. I just asked for it back.. That's all.


Originally Posted by Jakpro1
Dear Mr Vrus,

We at NASA are well aware that we are "owned by the public", but helping yourself to parts off the Shuttle is not welcomed and highly frowned upon.

Please return the Solid Rocket Booster nozzle control circuitry as soon as possible.

Sincerely,

Your friends at NASA.

PS...we are also missing a few other internal circuitry boards from the robotic arm assembly....know anything about this? Let us know.

Old 11-07-2005, 11:21 AM
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I've learned quite a bit about water/meth injection in the past 8 months I've been working on this. I've been working with the best in the business to create this system (Richard - Owner of ERL in the UK). The Subaru world ralley team and some other teams use their systems. Brabus is currently evaluating their system. Koenniggsegg is using/evaluating them. Noble just bought a bunch of their kits to put into their cars.. The list goes on and on.

Injecting 100% methanol into a motor is only beneficial to increase OCTANE ratings and to be able to run very aggressive timing maps. It is NOT the best if your goal is to REDUCE IAT. Water has much higher heat absorption properties than Methanol does. On the 55K motors, IAT reduction is more important than being able to run more aggressive timing maps.

For someone who runs a car like an E55, they dont want to have their ECU programmed with extremely aggressive timing maps because then the car is dependent on having the methanol available ALL THE TIME. If you should run out of methanol you are S.O.L. High timing + High Heat in the 55K motor = DISASTER. If you are running water and the tank runs out, it just means the motor will be running a higher IAT and the ECU will do what it normally does and back off the power.

Also, using 100% methanol has some dangers. It is highly flamable and explosive. It is colourless so you won't know it is burning until it is too late.

Imagine what would happen if you sprung a leak in the engine bay and 100% methanol sprayed onto your headers or other hot engine parts. INSTANT FIRE.

The best of both worlds is to run a combination of water & meth. Water will do the job of reducing IAT, and the meth will raise the octane rating slightly.

P.S-> I know Julio from the Corvette world. Alot of those guys use his kit.


Originally Posted by broke1
Nice vrus but ever heard K.I.S.S.????Youre way to complicated and WAY to big.

BTW,water will never get injected into one of my motors,straight meth is the ONLY way to fly and make hp.

My firend has over 500 kits installed on various vehicles and really knows his **** BETTER THAN ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE,ANYONE.

And he races 2-3x a week with his product.

Like I said,$500-$600 for lower egt's and 30rwhp or $2k-$3k for the same(headers,pulley,or ecu)

Last edited by vrus; 11-07-2005 at 11:24 AM.
Old 11-07-2005, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by vrus
The best of both worlds is to run a combination of water & meth. Water will do the job of reducing IAT, and the meth will raise the octane rating slightly.
Yes, cooler IAT is the way to go. You get the same benefit as higher octane rating (detonation protection) without the slower burn rate.
Old 11-07-2005, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by vrus
I've learned quite a bit about water/meth injection in the past 8 months I've been working on this. I've been working with the best in the business to create this system (Richard - Owner of ERL in the UK). The Subaru world ralley team and some other teams use their systems. Brabus is currently evaluating their system. Koenniggsegg is using/evaluating them. Noble just bought a bunch of their kits to put into their cars.. The list goes on and on.

Injecting 100% methanol into a motor is only beneficial to increase OCTANE ratings and to be able to run very aggressive timing maps. It is NOT the best if your goal is to REDUCE IAT. Water has much higher heat absorption properties than Methanol does. On the 55K motors, IAT reduction is more important than being able to run more aggressive timing maps.

For someone who runs a car like an E55, they dont want to have their ECU programmed with extremely aggressive timing maps because then the car is dependent on having the methanol available ALL THE TIME. If you should run out of methanol you are S.O.L. High timing + High Heat in the 55K motor = DISASTER. If you are running water and the tank runs out, it just means the motor will be running a higher IAT and the ECU will do what it normally does and back off the power.

Also, using 100% methanol has some dangers. It is highly flamable and explosive. It is colourless so you won't know it is burning until it is too late.

Imagine what would happen if you sprung a leak in the engine bay and 100% methanol sprayed onto your headers or other hot engine parts. INSTANT FIRE.

The best of both worlds is to run a combination of water & meth. Water will do the job of reducing IAT, and the meth will raise the octane rating slightly.

P.S-> I know Julio from the Corvette world. Alot of those guys use his kit.
Youre wrong,ask Julio.

Ive never seen a forced induction car that didnt like octane and meth is octane AND chemical intercooling.Its not just for octane,its burns VERY cool.

One of the reasons most diesel guys use a mix,diesels run off heat and the meth burns so cold that you cant get the diesel to burn.Although a few diesel guys have run str8 meth with success(very good tuners I would think)

On my 87 GN with meth inj(100% mix) I can hit the test button and lower idle egt's 200 d and m IAT's are just over ambient after a WOT blast and ive got a a/a IC vs a/w on the MB.

Run 100% meth and you'd be a convert.Water is only injected for 2 reasons 1)you dont know any better and 2)manufacturer recomends mix because their pumps arent 100% meth compatible.Only 2.

100% will make more power everytime even with the same timing,boost,etc.Its been proven already.....
Old 11-07-2005, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vrus
This is what I am working on testing right now.

Mine is an all-out kit with every bell & whistle. Some highlights are twin pumps, accumulator tank, blocked jet detection and all kinds of other electronic sensors/alarms, 3D mapping, constant Water/Fuel ratio throughout RPM band.

System looks like this:


This system really looks awesome, very high quality that I wouldn't mind putting on a MB - just on question: Injection is after the IC, right? (to get the full benefit of the IC AND the lower temp from the water/meth)
Old 11-07-2005, 06:45 PM
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[QUOTE=broke1]I see what you guys are paying for mods and im not to keen on dropping $10k for 100 hp.

Heres an idea I was begging DerekFSU about,a friend of mine makes methanol injection kits and has done them on Roots blown apps before (03-04 Cobra,SC 3800) QUOTE]

Just so everythings clear, we dont have roots type superchargers, we have twin screw superchargers.
Old 11-07-2005, 06:59 PM
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WRT methanol vs water/methanol mixtures:

If your car is primarily used for drag racing, then 100% methanol injection will provide the best performance. However, due to its flash point and corrosive nature, controlled storage and usage are needed. Stainless steel is highly recommended. It also is twice as expensive to use vs a 50/50 mixture with water.

If your car is primarily street driven, then water/methanol is the best method. It will provide a cooler IAT than 100% methanol, does not require special storage or usage conditions, will keep the combustion chamber cleaner, and costs half as much.

Both methods should only be used for short durations at or near full boost.
Old 11-07-2005, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by CA_E55
This system really looks awesome, very high quality that I wouldn't mind putting on a MB - just on question: Injection is after the IC, right? (to get the full benefit of the IC AND the lower temp from the water/meth)
I was originally going to be spraying before & after the supercharger but I have changed my mind and will spray only POST supercharger. I dont want to risk corroding the blades on the supercharger by spraying water/meth into the throttle body. I believe the blades are teflon coated and dont want to risk causing a problem long term.
Old 11-07-2005, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by vrus
I was originally going to be spraying before & after the supercharger but I have changed my mind and will spray only POST supercharger. I dont want to risk corroding the blades on the supercharger by spraying water/meth into the throttle body. I believe the blades are teflon coated and dont want to risk causing a problem long term.
Victor were are you placing the nozzles?. Are you placing them on the aluminum y underneath the throttle body.
Old 11-08-2005, 09:39 AM
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Wrong,wrong,wrong.

I use it on 2 of my cars,what experience are you guys speaking from??Thats right,NONE.Take note,ive used it for over 2 years.

Twin screw SC,roots blower are pretty much the same thing(air compressor driven off the engine)

Are you guys not reaqding what I posted?????IAT's at ambient after a WOT blast,egt dropping 200d....DID YOU READ MY POSTS????

Like I said,only 2 reasons to run meth 1)you dont know any better 2)your pump isnt meth compatible.

Read Corky Bell's book "maximum Boost" and come back and talk to me about chemical intercooling.

Seems you guys want to get raped on your mod $$$.A fool and his $$$

ps,vrus,whats the expected cost on your system,$3k???????
Old 11-08-2005, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by rflow306
Victor were are you placing the nozzles?. Are you placing them on the aluminum y underneath the throttle body.
I have 2 options in mind:

Option 1) 1 or 2 nozzles (depending on space) located at the cast iron Y supercharger outlet pipe. This option will most likely allow the water/meth to atomize a little better because it has to travel up the intake tube to the intake manifold. This option is also cheaper in case of a problem and the part has to be replaced (rather than replacing 2 intake manifolds).

Option 2) 1 nozzle located in each intake manifold spraying perpendicular to the individual intake runners. This option may have a greater cooling effect because the water/meth will be injected just before it enters the intake runners into the combustion chamber. The downside is that the lines will be more visible and if there is a problem I need to buy 2 new intake manifolds to put it back to stock.

I am still weighing my options and trying to make a final decision.
Old 11-08-2005, 10:24 AM
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Yes. Running pure methanol will produce more power than water or water & meth mixture. But...

The bottom line is this:

1) 100% Methanol is not very safe to be spraying in a hot engine compartment nor is it safe to be driving around with it in the trunk. If you spring a leak in the engine bay you can kiss your engine and car good bye. Not worth the risk in my opinion.

2) Water has better heat absorption properties than methanol. Doesnt matter what you say you saw for IAT or EGT. Water would produce lower temps. Its plain physics.

Using a mixture of methanol & water makes things SAFER and also gives you some benefit of each product.

This particular kit is expensive. I have over $2,700USD into it (the whole project). But, that's just me. I like doing things all-out and to the best of my ability. (You know what they say: Go Big or Go Home). I am not here trying to push these kits onto anyone nor was I trying to do something as cheap as possible. I built it for myself and wanted the best of the best of the best. I figured that if anyone wanted and appreciated what was built I could get it reproduced for them.


Originally Posted by broke1
Wrong,wrong,wrong.

I use it on 2 of my cars,what experience are you guys speaking from??Thats right,NONE.Take note,ive used it for over 2 years.

Twin screw SC,roots blower are pretty much the same thing(air compressor driven off the engine)

Are you guys not reaqding what I posted?????IAT's at ambient after a WOT blast,egt dropping 200d....DID YOU READ MY POSTS????

Like I said,only 2 reasons to run meth 1)you dont know any better 2)your pump isnt meth compatible.

Read Corky Bell's book "maximum Boost" and come back and talk to me about chemical intercooling.

Seems you guys want to get raped on your mod $$$.A fool and his $$$

ps,vrus,whats the expected cost on your system,$3k???????

Last edited by vrus; 11-08-2005 at 12:01 PM.
Old 11-08-2005, 11:51 AM
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im not sure if you guys can use this but this is what the bmw guys are using for water/meth injection

aatuning

you can find used ones for 500 around the forums also
Old 11-08-2005, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by vrus
I have 2 options in mind:

Option 1) 1 or 2 nozzles (depending on space) located at the cast iron Y supercharger outlet pipe. This option will most likely allow the water/meth to atomize a little better because it has to travel up the intake tube to the intake manifold. This option is also cheaper in case of a problem and the part has to be replaced (rather than replacing 2 intake manifolds).

Option 2) 1 nozzle located in each intake manifold spraying perpendicular to the individual intake runners. This option may have a greater cooling effect because the water/meth will be injected just before it enters the intake runners into the combustion chamber. The downside is that the lines will be more visible and if there is a problem I need to buy 2 new intake manifolds to put it back to stock.

I am still weighing my options and trying to make a final decision.
You got to go with option 2: As you said, the cooling efficency is much better, but for a different reason (or I misunderstood your short explanation)
Its simple physics: The efficiency of every heat-exchanger (e.g. IC) depends on the delta T, i.e. the higher the temperature differential between the two mediums (in the case of the MB IC its water and air) the more energy is transferred, everything else being equal (speed, pressure) - if you inject the water/meth before the IC, the temeprature of the compressed intake air is lower when hitting the IC and less heat energy can be removed by the IC, ergo, its less efficient. But as you said, there might be cosmetic and other reasons why the last bit of efficiency is not the most deciding factor. For me, it would be all efficiency....
Old 11-08-2005, 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CA_E55
You got to go with option 2: As you said, the cooling efficency is much better, but for a different reason (or I misunderstood your short explanation)
Its simple physics: The efficiency of every heat-exchanger (e.g. IC) depends on the delta T, i.e. the higher the temperature differential between the two mediums (in the case of the MB IC its water and air) the more energy is transferred, everything else being equal (speed, pressure) - if you inject the water/meth before the IC, the temeprature of the compressed intake air is lower when hitting the IC and less heat energy can be removed by the IC, ergo, its less efficient. But as you said, there might be cosmetic and other reasons why the last bit of efficiency is not the most deciding factor. For me, it would be all efficiency....
You missed it... Read Option 1 again..

I said supercharger OUTLET not inlet. I've already ruled out using it Pre-supercharger.

The other thing to consider is that the IAT sensor is located on the Y-pipe OUTLET.. If I put the water BEFORE the IAT sensor the ECU will see the lower value and might provide some better ignition advance. If I put the nozzles after the IAT sensor I am not sure if I will gain as much because the ECU will think the air is hotter than it really is.

Need to consult some people and see what they think.. Or I may just have to experiment on the dyno and see what happens.
Old 11-08-2005, 07:31 PM
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2004 E55 Evosport I & II; VRP H/E


I must be the village idiot I just noticed the "My Website" link in your signature.

Incredible!
Old 11-08-2005, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by lbE55


I must be the village idiot I just noticed the "My Website" link in your signature.

Incredible!
Why would you be the village idiot??

Thanks for the compliment though!! I'm just a car nut like the rest of you guys.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:46 PM
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[QUOTE=broke1]Wrong,wrong,wrong.

I use it on 2 of my cars,what experience are you guys speaking from??Thats right,NONE.Take note,ive used it for over 2 years.

Twin screw SC,roots blower are pretty much the same thing(air compressor driven off the engine)QUOTE]

No, they arent the same thing. A Roots type is only an air delivery system but a twin screw supercharger is also a compressor. The counter rotating lobes and chambers of the twin screw are designed for a screw like tapering effect running intake air into a smaller space for output, thus compressing it.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by lbE55


I must be the village idiot I just noticed the "My Website" link in your signature.

Incredible!
Trust me, I can up you easily on that, I'm a lot stupider

Play nice guys, lets keep the insults to the minimum.
Old 11-08-2005, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ricky.agrawal
Play nice guys, lets keep the insults to the minimum.
Yeah Victor, stop calling me the "village idiot!"

Oh, wait a minute, I called myself the village idiot.

Damn -- I did it again.
Old 11-13-2005, 12:08 PM
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[QUOTE=VelocitE55]
Originally Posted by broke1
Wrong,wrong,wrong.

I use it on 2 of my cars,what experience are you guys speaking from??Thats right,NONE.Take note,ive used it for over 2 years.

Twin screw SC,roots blower are pretty much the same thing(air compressor driven off the engine)QUOTE]

No, they arent the same thing. A Roots type is only an air delivery system but a twin screw supercharger is also a compressor. The counter rotating lobes and chambers of the twin screw are designed for a screw like tapering effect running intake air into a smaller space for output, thus compressing it.
Air compressor driven off the crank,both the same thing.


I can see that you guys really arent into getting your $$$'s worth so ill leave ya alone.

When the e55 with Alabama plates is running faster than you at the track with much less $$$ invested,youll know why.


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