Anyone rigged the Intercooler pump to run constantly??
Cory had me running all the time with my old pump, but the installer went by the book on the EVO system and the pump is back to running by ECU.
Any idea how to rig the relay to run constantly. Just hoping someone out there has done it and can talk me through it.
Thanks in advance.
Jim
Cory had me running all the time with my old pump, but the installer went by the book on the EVO system and the pump is back to running by ECU.
Any idea how to rig the relay to run constantly. Just hoping someone out there has done it and can talk me through it.
Thanks in advance.
Jim
It's an EVO cooling mod. Pretty sure after talking to VRUS that I need to burp the system and get that pump working constantly.
So far no negative effects on the pump. It has been around 3 years and 60,000 miles so far.
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So far no negative effects on the pump. It has been around 3 years and 60,000 miles so far.
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Simply open up fuse box and find any fuse that is on when key is on and off when the key is off. Since you are just turning on and off a relay, current draw on that circuit is minimal.
Think I have found out one of my major problems. Not sure why my guy did this, but the Johnson was hooked back up to the ECU and the relay was totally removed. (for those without the EVO cooling kit, a relay is added to the system for the Johnson Pump).
Relay is back in line with and rigged to open upon accessory turn on so she should be on continuous now.
Just need to tidy things back up and mount it.
FINALLY, we get to see what the EVO cooling kit can REALLY do with my IAT's.
Thanks as usual to VRUS for his knowledge that saves my life on a weekly basis and again thanks to Rudyrono for real time analysis.

if it does in fact lower you iat's, i wonder how well the oem (replacement) unit could hold up to a continuous switch?
Last edited by chiromikey; May 20, 2007 at 02:23 PM.

The relays in the engine compartment are not marked so you have to figure everything out on your own. For the ic pump i have a three way switch, off, on and ecu controlled. Below is were the 12v ignition source is located. I ran a separate relay and power supply for the johnson pump. Hope this helps.

Thanks for being patient with me.
Last edited by Jakpro1; May 20, 2007 at 08:39 PM.
i'm looking forward to see your next datalogging with the relay fixed.
Think I have found out one of my major problems. Not sure why my guy did this, but the Johnson was hooked back up to the ECU and the relay was totally removed. (for those without the EVO cooling kit, a relay is added to the system for the Johnson Pump).
Relay is back in line with and rigged to open upon accessory turn on so she should be on continuous now.
Just need to tidy things back up and mount it.
FINALLY, we get to see what the EVO cooling kit can REALLY do with my IAT's.
Thanks as usual to VRUS for his knowledge that saves my life on a weekly basis and again thanks to Rudyrono for real time analysis.

Do WE need to do this with stock pumps as well ???
You will notice the car will run much better with the pump rigged to be on all the time.
Think I have found out one of my major problems. Not sure why my guy did this, but the Johnson was hooked back up to the ECU and the relay was totally removed. (for those without the EVO cooling kit, a relay is added to the system for the Johnson Pump).
Relay is back in line with and rigged to open upon accessory turn on so she should be on continuous now.
Just need to tidy things back up and mount it.
FINALLY, we get to see what the EVO cooling kit can REALLY do with my IAT's.
Thanks as usual to VRUS for his knowledge that saves my life on a weekly basis and again thanks to Rudyrono for real time analysis.

There are 2 wires coming off the pump. I believe they are brown and black.. BLACK is ground. The BROWN is the power trigger...
Disconnect the harness from the stock pump.. This will allow you to keep the factory connector intact.
Connect a new wire to the BROWN pump wire and run it up to the fuse panel that is shown in the pics above. Put an inline 15AMP fuse on it and splice it into the RED wire you see from Albert's pics.
Connect up a new wire to the BLACK pump wire and connect it to a suitable ground point.
That RED wire will have power when the car is in accessory or start mode. The great thing with this is if you are in the dyno room or staging for a 1/4mile blast, you can put the car into Accessory position and the pump will circulate fluid for you.
Last edited by vrus; May 21, 2007 at 12:12 PM.




There are 2 wires coming off the pump. I believe they are brown and black.. BLACK is ground. The BROWN is the power trigger...
Disconnect the harness from the stock pump.. This will allow you to keep the factory connector intact.
Connect a new wire to the BROWN pump wire and run it up to the fuse panel that is shown in the pics above. Put an inline 15AMP fuse on it and splice it into the RED wire you see from Albert's pics.
Connect up a new wire to the BLACK pump wire and connect it to a suitable ground point.
That RED wire will have power when the car is in accessory or start mode. The great thing with this is if you are in the dyno room or staging for a 1/4mile blast, you can put the car into Accessory position and the pump will circulate fluid for you.
To be clear we dont need an additional relay?
I think to make the mod completely reversable where can we get the harness plug for the pump? Is it a universal fitting or MB specific? ... may as well run all new leads from the fuse box and when the pump dies remove and go to MB for a warranty pump ...
Also is there any feedback from ECU that pump is actually drawing current when ecu switches it on?
Last edited by stevebez; May 22, 2007 at 03:49 AM.


