cotodad

buckeyewalt, below is what the invoice states. Not sure if this answers your question though:

A cust states the car hesitates leaving a stop
cause: 54575908

071110 Engine w/DAS-test (engine running complaints only), perform
839 WP93 0.80

071402 Fuel press. & internal leakdown-fuel inj. syst. -test, perform
839 WP93 0.20

056071 Camshaft initial position check 839 WP93 1.70

540991 Control unit - software (after short test), install
839 WP93 0.30

540992 Control unit- ....... code (after short test), perform
839 WP93 0.10

540991 Control unit - software (after short test), install
839 WP93 0.30

540992 Control unit- ....... code (after short test), perform
839 WP93 0.10

buckeyewalt

I guess what I was trying to say, overall how is your hesitation now.....I just went out and had a chance to give the car "my test". With tc off.....I could only do about 6300-65000 red line in first..but had no problems with it hitting 7000 in second. I never tried going all out in first because of traction and I assumed that hitting 7000 in second will guarante 7000 in first..WRONG...... Have you hit 7000 in first???,, before or after your dealer visit. I am at a loss as to what to do...dealer says noting is wrong and the car feel strong...but not that strong in first.....!!

juicee63

You are going to have to train the car to shift out higher. It may take up to 300 miles. Start using d/s, when the car upshifts downshift back to 1st gear and try and hold it progressively above where it shifted prior. In your case get to 6400 then 6700, 6800 etc, the car will shift later and later. Samssonz 63 shifts out of first at 7200, the only car I have seen do this (63) he drove the crap out of her and trained the shift points. Seems all 63's do fine after 1st, 2nd 7100, 3rd 7200, 4th 7100, 5th. Now that you know you have the latest updates and new bracket, get some nice fuel, and press the car a couple times until you hit about 120c oil temp then give it a rest and repeat once she cools back down to 100-105c. You will need to start telling the ECU what to do by changing the first gear shift with training.

My car will now shift out at 7000 in first , watch my vids on you tube. I will make a new video of the better shift point. Car used to jerk out of first now it is minor. IMHO , first gear is the problem with the 63, the ECU really protects the engine more in first than any other gear. 3rd seems best for racing . (from a roll 60-130)

user name juicee55

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il4lFYXYcTU

buckeyewalt

Juicee--I saw what you did, but that is different from the way I did it. I went straight from the dig, and the traction was just not there from 5-40 mph...then it just calmed down and went , but shifted at 6600 or so. I never tried it from a roll to redline...need to try that.

The other problem I have and can't fix is that my wife drives the car to work (she is a teacher) and lives about 3 miles from work (I have a company car). So anything I try and do to make it go fast...it would all be lost in one week of her driving it. I guess the only thing the ECU could learn from her is how to go slow....!! There has got to be a way to keep the ECU thinking fast...!!

juicee63

LOL, my wife drives it like a fancy sedan...ugh.. maybe ripping the seats out and installing recaro seats and a roll cage adding NOS will change her behavior.

Try turning off tc and going from a dig but not slamming the gas , or simply use M mode see where it red lines, your dash will flash to tell you to shift then booom you hit the limiter, which will cause a loss to a Maxima. LOL , M mode is supposed to be fastest , I think I will try and get a feel for M mode while car is in DYNo. This should provide the best possible performance. in this scenario it is timing and the delay between the hitting of the paddle and actual shift! I hate this about the car wish it was instant, oh well.

I think your ECU is just doing what it knows, too bad there cannot be two settings . A wife ECU button and a Teenager button

buckeyewalt

Juicee--correct me if I am wrong....was the "C" and "S" button on the transmission supposed to provide "higher and firmer" shift points? I thought that by going into sport mode, that the transmissiona and engine "go into sport mode" which mean higher RPM and firmer shifts and down shifts...might be wrong though, but that what I thought..!!

juicee63

in drive sport it should start in first and give you more agressive shift points, in C it will shift out to maximize fuel, smooth ride less up and down shifting. try the two modes depressing the gas pedal in a similar manner and see where it shifts. If it is identical the car is not doing what it should

bfnnrgn

All I can say is I hate the learning of the shift points. Darn SLK likes to shift at 5000 rpm unless I select the gear in S mode. Why can't there be a max performance mode that bypasses all this learning garbage?

juicee63

yep flippin computers , software bs..


when I need to have fun I just put the car in dyno mode, but would be nice to have safety and performance. I think the new C63 has some new performance levels you can select. ESP , kills these cars on the track, when off it is still on. LOL

bfnnrgn

Tell me about it. The SLK is the worst of my cars because I drive it rather sedately most of the time. I only drive it when the weather is nice with the top down and in that case I'm not in a hurry to go anywhere. However when I want it to go I expect it to go. Not decide on it's own I really don't want it to go based on how I drove it yesterday.

cotodad

Guess I was wrong. I have been getting up early in the morning the last couple of days and really pushing the car. You are right about first gear. I am shifting into second around 6300 to 6500. But part of the reason might be because I lose traction right at that RPM. It does not matter if I have ESP on or not, I lose traction in either case. Once that happens, at a high RPM, it seems to shift immediately into second. Perhaps when I get some new tires I can keep the tires from spinning a little longer? My car feels very strong in first though, like I said earlier. Seems to get there quicker than it used to. But like I said, it is possible it is my imagination.

I have a new question for the 63ers out there. This happened to me once before. My engine always idles high for about the first 15 seconds of startup in the morning. When I hear the engine wind down I know it's time to drive. The last three days my car has not idled high in the morning. It starts up like it is already warm (but it is not). It seems to drive fine though. Should I be worried about not having the high idle in the am? The reason I ask is this happened to me when I first got the car one morning. The next day my check engine light came on. I can't remember what service they performed, but that solved the problem.

Thanks for any help on this. By the way, if any of you people are located in Southern California and want to try test driving each others' e63s, I am all for it. I am curious how different they are.

buckeyewalt

Yep, same as my car...I loose traction somewhere between 2000-4500 as best as I can determine. I tried to do what Juciee did to his vehicle, and could not duplicate it...it always wanted to shift early well before 7000 in first. Traction is the issue, esp off or on, as soon as the tires loose traction, it shifts into second. I don't know if the dealers can do anything about that, maybe first gear is supposed to be like that...I don't know!

As far as your second question, my car always idles high in the am for about 10 seconds, and then normal...it has never not idled low in the am first thing..! BTW, how is your hesitation now...gone??

cotodad

Better, but not perfect. It is still there if I stop quickly and then take-off immediately. But, it is briefer now and does not jolt the car like it used to. It still annoys me and I hope a fix becomes available some day.

juicee63

You should come run your car at california Speedway, Sept 21st.

there will be several 63, 55's.

www.alternativemotoring.com


There have only been a few 63 cars tha shift out at 7k in first and they were cars that were driven very hard. My car is shifting out always between 6800-7000 now but it took about 500 miles to adapt to this. I havee 11k. I will be really interested in what she does on the drag strip in a week or so. Hopefully the longer 1st gear improves my time. Spinning the tires is a no no , and you guys are correct the car immediately shifts to 2nd if the little esp triangle starts to flicker

buckeyewalt

Would love to be there, however...being a few thousand miles away kind of prevents that....even with the esp off...if you spin the tires and it hit close to redline..it will shift into second, so no matter what I do...I really can't see it shifting to 7000 in first...I have 7000+ miles on mine...its loose,,but I still can't get the traction I need in first!!

cotodad

I am close, but can't make it that day. Sounds fun though.

cotodad

Hesitation is back and is worse than ever. It gradually got worse since the work was done several months ago. What are the rules for getting a new car? Do I have a case. Test drove car when it was new and it ran great. The problem started after a service they performed about one year ago. Was not as bad back then. Nevertheless, I complained and brought car in several times to two different dealerships. The first few times they said all was normal. However, the tast time I brought in I demanded a mechanic ride with me and then they admitted something was wrong. But like I said, they made some adjustments and the hesitation was reduced, but has now come back strong. Do I give them one more chance and tell them I want a new car if they can't fix it? Any thoughts anyone?

MB_Forever

cotodad,

I think the hesitation you're experiencing is purely software related. The ECU is constantly adapting to your style of driving. And unfortunately, sometimes the ECU will incorrectly adapt to a traffic condition or temporary transition while you're driving. Try this: take it back to the dealer and ask them to reset/erase all transmission adaptation. Usually when they have to do that at the dealership, they re-adapt it for you to factory standards, so make sure you tell them you want no adaptation what so ever. When you first get the car, it will be very jerky and will shoft very strong, but will smooth out after a couple of 100 miles.

oldgixxer

Sorry to hear that.
You could also try the ECU Rest,it works for me every time.I did my ECU Reset before I ran my 12.34 1/4mi pass

cotodad

Thanks guys. Is the Reset something I can do on my own? I assume it is in the owner's manual? I will try that first.

MB_Forever

No the ECU reset trick mentioned here seems to work on some cars and not on others, and is not what I was referring to. I meant a complete transmission adaptation erase. It has to be done at the dealership, as they hook it up to STAR I think.

If all else fails, you should try that.

buckeyewalt

I will add my two cents worth.........when they reflashed my engine and transmission.....they took MOST of the hesitation away...there is still some on certain conditions, but for the most part, in everyday to day driving...it is gone. With that, IMHO, there is a fine line between meeting emissions and power that the factory must go by. I still think that this is a clear ECU issue and nothing else. This last reflash was the most recent that MB has...I can't help but think that they are getting some complaints from people who have this issue......BUT why do some have it more worse than others......????

buckeyewalt

Do a search here for "the sneaky ECU reset".....it does work!!

Most-Wanted

Its official, I have joined the dreaded hesitation crew. The car was perfect for the first 900 miles and then the trans completely failed. They said it was a maufacturers defect of the TQ converter. So they put in a new trans, TQ converter, etc. Ever since I picked it up I have this hesitation. I am so pissed off right now. Just had it back again and no luck. The shifts are better and the car definitely runs stronger, but this hesitation is terrible. I don't even have 5K miles on it yet

juicee63

It will take about 300 miles of HARD driving.

Take the car and put it in d/s. As soon as it shifts up , down shift. On your display make certain you can see the gears . 1st gear is where the hesitation is most severe IMHO. Take your rev limiter as close to 7k as possible in every gear. Hit your kickdown button frequently when possible(freeway) open roads...Try using M and the paddles as well. The ECU and TCU are continually adapting , so everytime you drive more than 30 miles your car may change. An extended period of traffic will handicap your car significantly. If it does not improve in a few hundred miles take the car right back in.. This has been a MAJOR problem for the63. There are numerous service bulletins regarding this.

Good luck