I need some advice or opinions on how I can squeeze out another .2 tenths out of my beast.

This is the second time the car has run an 11.470 in the past month. Also have consistenly run 11.5's to 11.60x with the best trap speed of 123.46 and best 60' of 1.684.

I'm not even sure a better 60' time will get me there. So.......................

What can I do for get me to the 11.29X area without risking my engine or rear end. I do plan on a Q LSD. All of my mods are listed in my signature.

youtube link for review of pass for comments to improve my pass: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Prb2nFUr-L4

Thanks for assistance. BTW, I am planning on the November MIR event. That would be the place I could get away breaking into the 11.29X area.

 

Have you thought about installing the VRP intercooler / heat exchanger? I know the stock pumps are trash, and replacing with a bigger pump helps, but the stock heat exchanger is TINY!!! This may be enough to squeeze out the time you need. It will probably be the least expensive mod you make to the car. I think retail the "kit" sells for around 1500 or so. I am about to have one installed on my CL55. I will dyno before and after if that helps.....

J

 

Geez, I wish I had those kinds of problems...

 

Two CL guys responding, funny stuff.

VRP or ASP pulley (178mm) for the number you seek, maybe the tune will accommodate it.

 

He already has one...from Code 3...see sig

 

Awwwww pooor Kleeman car only running 11.47's LOL HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

comon bro, its all in the 60 ft time

You need to 60 like yer buddy Tracshun. 1.63 5/100ths= 4x by the end of the run .2 off 11.47 = 11.27


Your trap speed likely has topped out , unless you can run @-1500 ft Then well then you would already own the top spot

 

Adding a bigger IC heat exchanger will not add additional power. The one mod I notice you are missing that you can really benefit from is the VRP CF Airbox and Airtubes. Since you already have a bigger pulley, 80mm throttlebody, and cams, the Airbox and Air tubes will relieve that bottle neck in your intake system and might help squeeze out the extra torque you need to get you another .2 tenths out of your beast.
Once you install the Quaffie LSD, you should be able to leave the line at a higger rpm and a little harder.

 

Hey Roland,

I too believe it is in the 60'. Times seem to drop exponentially as this time is dug into.

However, if you don't want to leave it ALL up to the 60', have you looked into a revised custom tune?? How currrent is your tune? There is usually some room for improvement especially down low which is where I think it will benefit your car. Have you done any data logging with your current setup? What are your A/Fs at?

Summary: Get out of the FREAKIN' hole or simply tweak the baby

Oh, ya, I still believe substantially cooling the car down (over 2 hours with ice) will give you about another 1 mph up top and about .07 to .10 off of your total time. Just my opinion, but its worth a try. Keep runnin' it. It WILL happen brotha.

 

I agree with everything you just posted!

 

i'm not sure airbox/tubes are enough, at least i haven't heard/seen any evidence that they've been proven at the track and an lsd won't help either. imho, the only way to get lower 60ft times (and possibly et's) is to get rid of the tq limiters in the ecu/tcu and i'm not sure thats been track proven to be possible by any tuners yet (even though it's been claimed by most). a larger pulley might help a bit but the easiest solution besides the high dollar slr style coolers or n2o is waiting for fall and running in better conditions.

 

The Godfather, Derek FSU said that on his record breaking runs he would actually remove the air filters to try to get every last drop out of the car.

You are pretty much at that point now Roland. (meaning little tiny things can help a little tiny bit and add up)

You told us straight up that your car was running 3/4 tank. Lets say 10gal over where you wanted. 8.66lb per gal = a small person you had in the passenger seat along with you.

So there's nearly 100lb.

You mentioned that you threw in some race gas but you gotta give race gas at least 50-100miles to work threw the ECU (per Cory at Klee). Otherwise, once the tank is mixed, you disconnect battery and let the ECU learn it faster. In those perfect conditions, bet an adjusted ECU would have really responded to a higher octane fuel. Debatable topic, but worth a try.

The air filter DerekFSU thing is pretty radical. Hate to suck a Junebug or whatever large bugs are up there into that strong perfect motor. Perhaps skip that one.

Other than that, you know what I am gonna say. All together now, "Sneaky ECU reset orrrrrr battery disconnect" are for sure worth a shot.

I am gonna be performing some test at my dyno in a few weeks and the sneaky will be one I am gonna finally put to bed. Gonna drive the car like a geezer for a few weeks and then run her on the dyno 1/4 mile and then again with tranny adapts cleared. If she increases yet again for me (already proven once but people still doubting my .1 increase), then this issue is over and sneaky ecu DOES help 1/4 times. I ran 3 10.9's on the dyno, then sneaky ecu and ran 10.8 on a very HOT car.

Just make sure you do an ECU resets at the END of the night so that you can't blame me if car suffers from it. Some say the car is actually lower on power until ECU learns everything (battery disconnect only), but I still say my car has never been stronger than right after battery clear.

Here hoping for 10.2 in your future.

Jim

 

Should look into some longtube headers.

 

Also on your video there is TOO MUCH spin. This cost you ET and helped your trap. If you watch DJE55's vid, his car bolts out no spin whatsoever, runs a 1.61 60 ft and also no spin (chirps ) shifting.. Here is the link

http://www.fquick.com/videos/viewvideo.php?id=1221

11.39@123 very similar to your car!

 

Do you have any dyno charts, preferably with A/F?

It would be interesting to see the shape of the curves.

 

i think it's the other car spinning the tires not his...but i'm just guessing based on my observations.

 

I think there is a fine line between rear-wheel torque and ecu/tcu limitations. Once the rw torque gets higher with additional mods the ecu/tcu starts to limit 1st gear output imho. For the guys with more mods I think that is definitely the case.
My car with the mt's dead hooks but does not 60ft that great, but by the 330 ft I have already made up a lot of ground. Which is what I feel in the car, the minute it shifts into second it feels like it pulls even harder.

My suggestion is a looser torque converter and tcu software just to be sure.

 

More bolt-on crap is not going to help you Roland (If it can..... somebody please prove it).

A perfect launch and the right weather conditions may get you there so I would focus on those two things.

DJ and Albert ran those 11.3's some time ago and that was before Albert had cams and I think DJ only had headers/pulley/ECU.

Listen, it all comes down to driver skill when trying to get the best et on motor only (That's why I can only muster an 11.7......I have none).

So what's moral of the story? A modified E55 (Headers/pulley/ECU + whatever other crap you decide to bolt on) is an 11.6-11.9 sec car @ 120-124mph. A modified E55 (Headers/pulley/ECU + whatever other crap you decide to bolt on and great driver) is an 11.3-11.5 sec car @ 120-124mph.

 

I going to have to agree with Rock on this one
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He is correct about not having any driving skills.

 

 

Haha.......Yeah, I guess I set that one up for ya.

 

I didn't post in this thread..

 

Sorry Rock, but Albert got you good! Damn funny!

 

BTW Roland, What the hell is K5? I cannot find it on the Kleemann web site. If you do have it (sounds like a secret weapon), please eclipse Albert's record so I can refer to him in all future post as a has-been.

Thanks


Edit: I'm not kidding.

 

Good one. But, it was an adjective, not a noun that he was referring to.

 

I have to agree look at all the 63 guys. Few to no mods and big changes in numbers they are getting?
reasons so far

• more experience dragging their cars
• cooling the car down for ages before each run
• lastly picking the coolest and best prepped track with the coolest DA etc is the big winner it seems