ok so I got the 180mm LET pulley kit and installed it yesterday and have very bad results. I installed it and torqued to 148 then went about 5 miles when my supercharger shut off and ESP light came on and the battery light came on. I pulled into a parking lot and and popped the hood and noticed the pulley was not spinning. So i shut it off right away and call a tow truck. He towed me back to my house and I removed all the belts and fan and stuff and noticed the pulley was barely on there and I could take it off by hand. then I took off the bolt and pulley. The bolt was stripped so I went and got a new one and machined down the neck so it will fit , but the crank key had broken off in the key channel. The crank is a little scratched up but I think I can just replace the key and every thing will be fine. So has anyone taken off the key before? TIA

 

Sorry to hear. I hope someone here has good advise for you!

 

Ya me too i hope its not to hard. I dont see what I didnt wrong for this to happen I guess no more wrenching on my car for me

 

Sorry, hope this thread sheds some light on the subject.
176 posts.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ys-please.html

 

If I remember correctly wasn't a person who specializes in Fcars trying to install your pulley. Hopefully the kep is only broken and the crank is no damaged. I think the thread Yatch Master posted has all the information you need. Good luck hopefully it is not a big issue.

 

+1 - sorry to hear about your troubles, but when people were telling you the questions the guy who was installing it were asking raised red flags - they were only saying to help you avoid problems like this!

This could be a relatively minor problem, or something much worse! Post pictures and we will be able to help more.

-m

 

how far does the crank key go on the crankshaft?

I know you guys were trying to give me a heads up but i also like to do things myself because i can learn from it rather than watching someone do it.

 

it only fits one way on there, and you would know if you get it on.

 

Sorry to hear about you unfortunate mishap, I sort of know exactly what you're going through.

I wouldn't sweat about the past or whatever decisions you made prior to this, the damage is done and the only thing you could now is come up with a solution to resolve your problem. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

i'm not talking about putting in a new one. i need to get the old one out. i'm trying to get it out without damaging the seal but if i have to replace seal then i will. you can never learn something if you dont try.

 

I thought your mechanic installed it. Is this a different pulley than the one your mechanic did?

Also, did you forget about the additional 90 degrees of twist (torque angle) on the bolt once you reach the initial torque setting?


I don't get this. If you bought a new bolt at the MB dealer, why would you need to machine it? I sure hope you're using the correct stretch bolt from MB.

You might be able to get the remains of the key out of there with some long-nosed pliers, but I'd also use this opportunity to replace the seal when you replace the key. Hope the keyway isn't damaged. Good luck with it, and let us know how it turns out.

 

With all due respect Renntech, there are things to learn by doing, and there are things to learn by watching. Things that involve your crankshaft, which I believe is an $8000 part, plus labor, should be learned by watching someone who knows what they are doing the first time. Pulley installs aren't the most complicated things in the world but are also an easy way of damaging very expensive and difficult to replace parts. The most you seem to discuss your problem, the more I'm beginning to suspect you're going to have your hands full trying to undo things...

What did you use to secure the crank when your torqued down the crank bolt?

-m

 

It is a factory MB bolt that LET uses they just machine the neck at the top to fit in the new pulley. I checked the serial numbers on the top and they are both the same so it is the correct bolt. I do appreciate all the help, but to the people that are telling me I should change mechanics and I should have let a MB shop do it and I should'nt do it and stuff its really not needed whats done is done so thats really not going to help me in any way.

 

I've been hearing that aftermarket pulley's are suppose to wobble a little bit? Is this true? thanks

 

IIRC, The M113 crank shaft and key are the same unit. If you snap the key off you are out a crank shaft. There is no repairing that. How do I know? I had a crank pulley problem and if the pulley was not aluminum I would have needed a new crank Shaft.

Some stock pulleys have some wobble to them from the damper.. I tend to like no wobble after my pulley problem.

 

I read what people are posting a different way.

It seems like the suggestion is that the car should be looked at by an experienced, competent installer so as not to cause further damage (assuming damage has already occurred).

Anyway, hope that you get it resolved.

 

Like hooley says- they are one part (the key and shaft). This is going to be an EXTREMELY expensive mistake. I hope that a workaround is found so if this happens in the future it will be much more economical to fix.

 

ok So I think I might have it , I talked to another member who had the same problem on his CLS and he put the pulley back on and torqued it to like 185 and its been running fine now he said. Because it was only the very tip of the key that broke off , which i think broke when the pulley bolt loosened up and the pulley was only being held on by the tip. So I looked at my old bolt with the renntech pulley and the LET one and the new one I got from the MB dealer and the old RENNTech one was pre green loctited the new MB one was Pre green loctited but the the LET one had nothing on it was so ever, could that have been the problem. Thank you all very much

 

If just the woodruff key is knocked off. I think that can be replaced. Lets hope for the best that that is all the damage that has happened.

Note: From what I know to get at the woodruff key you are going to have to take off the timing chain/case and basically the whole front end of the motor. I would thing the Supercharger and maybe even the heads or at least the valve covers have to come off so you can expose the timing chain at the camshaft gear.

Needless to say its an expressive fix part and labor wise. If this is all that has happen. Talk to John or Andrew over at Schumacher Mercedes and tell him Hooley sent you. They for sure can help you.

I know what you are going though. If you need any help feel free to contact me or Dyno-Comp.

 

just so i can understand can someone verify this. the crankshaft has a rectangular piece protuding out and the pulley has a notch that goes over the rectangular piece on the crankshaft, which in turn locks it.

 

I'm thinking of the same pc. and It think its the woodruff key , but I might be wrong.

 

Crankshaft bolt is a stretch bolt.

The bolt is what is what keeps crankshaft damper on the crankshaft. Not the woodruff key, as some may think. Woodruff is there to position the pulley.

Factory AMG specs are 200NM and 90 deg. of strech. If it is done correctly, there are no problems of it coming off.

It is a job that needs two people, no matter what tools one has. If you have factory tool and aftermarket pulley allows you to use it, you will need someone to hold the pulley with the tool and someone to stretch the bolt once 200NM are acheived. And it will take a lot of force to accomplish this.

If you can not use the tool, than one will need to lock flexplate of the transmission to keep the engine from spinning.

I still can not believe how many people do not do it right.

 

It is very much a two man job. IF the woodruff key snapped off wouldn't that cause the pulley to walk on the crankshaft? Makes we wonder if the keyway on the pulley was slightly out of spec and allowed for some play when under a load. Thus snapping the key off in the keyway. Or tq specs were off

When I toasted a pulley on my crankshaft the shop foreman said to never lock the flex plate. Otherwise you can damage the crankshaft. However I've never seen one damaged from doing it the two person way.

 

^ excellent advice.

Never been one to fear twisting wrenches or busting a knuckle in the garage.
Paid Vadim’s firm to install my crank pulley without regret. Running strong ~25,000 miles hence.

A man’s got to know his limitations. :) – Clint Eastwood

 

Look on the bright side, bout 2-3 years ago, you'd have to buy the ENTIRE bottom end to replace the crank. Crank, rods and pistons came as a set.....no splitting.

Total last time I checked was over 20K. Rape on a grand scale. Least you can finally buy parts separate now.

Anyone got a guess how much a cranker is gonna cost?

I guess 4-5K from stealer.

Not sure if RBrenton is still on here, but he can get pretty good deals on parts.