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It's not an easy fix as long as nobody give me an answer and I keep asking in different forums because I haven't got an answer yet.
You offered me your help by charging me with $200. That's not help, that's a paid service (and by the way, two of the first errors I solved by myself by studying different forums)
I need people who can share information, not sell them. For example posts #73 or #383 are helpful for those guys who want to change those things.
I hope you got my point ;-)
Forget that dick head Here is what I would try. Write down what settings you change so if anything undesirable happens you can go flip it back. There are several options in the IC variant coding with selections between miles and km.
Go to Control Units->Information and Communication->IC- Instrument Cluster->Diagnoses to plant specifications->Control Unit Adaptations->Control unit adaptations (Variant Coding)
There should be several different selections on this screen. I found about six different selections in the simulator that could be changed between miles and km.
Variantenkodierung Menu-Wekseinstellungen-> Defalt Konfig:Wegsterecke - Select km
Variantenkodierung Menu-Wekseinstellungen-> Speckher 1 Konfig:Wegstrecke - Select km
Variantenkodierung Schlusselckonfig-> Defalt Konfig:Wegsterecke - Select km
Variantenkodierung Schlusselckonfig-> Speckher 1 Konfig:Wegstrecke - Select km
Variantenkodierung Werkseinstellungen-> Dastellung Geschw.-Warnung - Select km/h
Variantenkodierung Werkseinstellungen-> Wegstreckeneinheit fur Tachorucksetzung - Select km
I would flip through all the menus in the variant coding and double check everything selected to km and km/h for the ones that contain an option of miles or km. See if that gets you sorted.
I do not want to upset anyone or violate the rules of the forum, I just want answers that could help me.
I also know the risks and I assume them by changing the IC settings.
Thank you drothgeb for your reply and the willing to help me.
I will carefully look at all those menus, check and double check them, and I'll be back with an answer.
Still no luck with speedometer
I've tried everything you wrote and nothing yet. There must be somewhere else a deep setting that is responsible for showing mph instead of km/h.
Alright, next thing I see that may do it is through a manual IC set-up. Go back to the control units -> IC instrument cluster -> Initial Startup -> Initial startup with manual settings input for new control unit
1. F2 the first screen describing what it's taking you into
2. F2 the second screen allowing you to match IC and drive system mileage
3. F3 the third screen informing you days since initial registration
4. Select SA code 461 (Instrument cluster with indication in miles and English inscriptions) and hit F3
5. Change the selection to "Not present" and hit F3. (there are two other options here one is just present and one is for USA, note what your is currently set to)
6. Press F5 to write the change to the control unit
7. It will inform you coding has been changed, press F3 to code.
When coding is complete press F1 to exit out of the next series of options it brings up to code without changing anything. See if that does it for you.
Alright, next thing I see that may do it is through a manual IC set-up. Go back to the control units -> IC instrument cluster -> Initial Startup -> Initial startup with manual settings input for new control unit
1. F2 the first screen describing what it's taking you into
2. F2 the second screen allowing you to match IC and drive system mileage
3. F3 the third screen informing you days since initial registration
4. Select SA code 461 (Instrument cluster with indication in miles and English inscriptions) and hit F3
5. Change the selection to "Not present" and hit F3. (there are two other options here one is just present and one is for USA, note what your is currently set to)
6. Press F5 to write the change to the control unit
7. It will inform you coding has been changed, press F3 to code.
When coding is complete press F1 to exit out of the next series of options it brings up to code without changing anything. See if that does it for you.
I did that startup procedure a few days ago.
I still have a doubt/question: you wrote "4. Select SA code 461 (Instrument cluster with indication in miles and English inscriptions) and hit F3". This phrase is confusing me, because I don't want miles indications. What is that code 461?
Step 4 is just selecting a menu. The menu is titled "SA code 461 (Instrument cluster with indication in miles and English inscriptions)". Once inside the menu, step 5 has you change the selection to not present.
It's still not working.
Maybe it's more than an IC setting.
It's strange that in the middle display is shown the value of speed expressed in mph followed by the km/h
Getting the count is a good thing, resetting is illadviced as you will not be able to stop effectively when the SBC unit dies.
Directions I found somewhere:
W211 SBC count check or reset
Start engine. (Note: Engine does not need to be running to only obtain count. Engine must be running if resetting the count.)
Start xentry, go through menus for your vehicle and go to:
Control units
Chassis
SBC sensotronic brake control
Development data
Actuations (should be at the bottom of the menu so scroll if necessary)
Complete index of Actuations
Break: To only get the count, look for and select “Bremsenzaehler (DF_GetBrLiveTime)”. This returns the total count to date. Stop here if only getting the count and back out of the menu using the F1 key. Continue if you wish to reset.
I followed the steps, it shows the count only (Engine On), where should I continue to reset ? Its F3 for start which shows count and the F1 for backwards, nothing more in there.
There is more to the post. I know because I posted it. Having said that, DO NOT reset the counter! I guarantee if I were purchasing your car and I had the least suspicion you reset the counter, I would drop my offering price by $2000 to account for your failure to replace the SBC properly (and it is now covered under a 25 year unlimited mileage warranty) and the other maintenance you were too cheap to perform.
hi again, i have now a problem with the key, its a w211, i cant open the doors with the key, what i have done with the car is changed ecu, so are there anything i need to program for getting the central lock to work???
Interesting, I don’t answer for a few days and my inbox explodes with help requests because the amateurs stumble around in SD trying to fix the dashes LOL keep looking in SD and call others names like a little girl while everyone else does it the right way.
MBUSA is still deciding as of last Friday, 6 weeks since we dropped it off there. They know already this was the last time they will ever see our MBs there.
The only good thing here is MBUSA acknowledges there is a severe problem with their fuel tank replacement procedure.
Last edited by Mackhack; 06-17-2019 at 10:33 PM.
Reason: Typo
MBUSA is still deciding as of last Friday, 6 weeks since we dropped it off there. They know already this was the last time they will ever see our MBs there.
The only good thing here is MBUSA acknowledges there is a severe problem with their fuel tank replacement procedure.
I have a copy of their actual procedure they're required to follow. It's P-B-47.10/63b they need to reference. They even discuss the changes to the wiring harness for older vehicles: "Older vehicles with 2 prong connector on fuel tank sending unit (with integrated fuel filter) require jumper harness to connect new sending unit to existing wiring harness (refer to parts table)."
I can't remember what they did to screw the job up for you. It's been a while, and I don't come here much.
Thanks man. I have the pdf too. What happens nationwide is this. If you buy the new pump assembly (passenger side) the parts guy will automatically give you all the additional parts as listed in EPC that are needed auch as a new harness that runs from the back (passenger side trunk side) to the front (engine control module) as well as two harness adapters for the dual pump (passenger side) and sender unit (driver side).
When the tank and pump/sender unit gets replaced under warranty based on the bulletin they only add the adapter on the driver side.
What they ****ed up (nation wide): The new pumps draw almost twice as much current and the old cable harness’ wires are too thin for 30A of current. The relais is rated for 20 or 25 A, so not big enough. Furthermore the new dual pump has a design change by Pierburg. They swapped two of the pins. This means one pump runs forward the other pump runs backward and eventually the relais burned up and the pump burned up, the fuse triggered and melted partially. I know a guy’s E55 burned up in his drive way from that.
Our car is at the dealership now for exactly 8 weeks and 1 day. MBUSA finally came forward and agreed to pay for the complete repair of this. I don’t know if the service adviser should habe said that but MBUSA knows about this problem for a long time but tries to keep it under the rug and he even said on the phone they know of many E55 that came back to the dealerships. I personally know of 4 other E55 drivers who dropped their cars off at the same dealership with the same issue within the last 8 weeks.
They told us they will assemble the new dual relais/dual fuse harness which was used as of 05/2005 and of course the adapter harness. The adapter does nothing else but swap the pins of the pump to make both pumps run forward. Why MBUSA doesn’t update their bulletin and do it right in the first place is the question. Maybe they wait until the next class action against them will happen.
Thanks man. I have the pdf too. What happens nationwide is this. If you buy the new pump assembly (passenger side) the parts guy will automatically give you all the additional parts as listed in EPC that are needed auch as a new harness that runs from the back (passenger side trunk side) to the front (engine control module) as well as two harness adapters for the dual pump (passenger side) and sender unit (driver side).
When the tank and pump/sender unit gets replaced under warranty based on the bulletin they only add the adapter on the driver side.
What they ****ed up (nation wide): The new pumps draw almost twice as much current and the old cable harness’ wires are too thin for 30A of current. The relais is rated for 20 or 25 A, so not big enough. Furthermore the new dual pump has a design change by Pierburg. They swapped two of the pins. This means one pump runs forward the other pump runs backward and eventually the relais burned up and the pump burned up, the fuse triggered and melted partially. I know a guy’s E55 burned up in his drive way from that.
Our car is at the dealership now for exactly 8 weeks and 1 day. MBUSA finally came forward and agreed to pay for the complete repair of this. I don’t know if the service adviser should habe said that but MBUSA knows about this problem for a long time but tries to keep it under the rug and he even said on the phone they know of many E55 that came back to the dealerships. I personally know of 4 other E55 drivers who dropped their cars off at the same dealership with the same issue within the last 8 weeks.
They told us they will assemble the new dual relais/dual fuse harness which was used as of 05/2005 and of course the adapter harness. The adapter does nothing else but swap the pins of the pump to make both pumps run forward. Why MBUSA doesn’t update their bulletin and do it right in the first place is the question. Maybe they wait until the next class action against them will happen.
That is absolutely stupid negligence on their part.
Chill down just a bit. I've measured this. I'm an electrical engineer (not a very good one; I let the smoke out of the electronics quite often!) and this sort of stuff I like. Read this thread; install a 70-amp relay. Wires have not yet melted off their insulation. If they do, I'll replace with wire one gauge up.
FWIW, the new pumps draw the same amperage as the old pumps. I've measured it. No difference when new. Just different connections which makes me think, "WTF?".
Chill down just a bit. I've measured this. I'm an electrical engineer (not a very good one; I let the smoke out of the electronics quite often!) and this sort of stuff I like. Read this thread; install a 70-amp relay. Wires have not yet melted off their insulation. If they do, I'll replace with wire one gauge up.
FWIW, the new pumps draw the same amperage as the old pumps. I've measured it. No difference when new. Just different connections which makes me think, "WTF?".
We tested it too before we dropped it off 8 weeks ago and it was higher. That’s why I mentioned it. And the video and pictures of the burning E55 says it all.
I’ll check their work once we have it back and probably show some pictures.
We tested it too before we dropped it off 8 weeks ago and it was higher. That’s why I mentioned it. And the video and pictures of the burning E55 says it all.
I’ll check their work once we have it back and probably show some pictures.
I'm looking forward to when you can once more enjoy your car. If it is delayed, you are always welcome to travel to Texas and I'll loan you my car for a few days so you can explore the old frontier...Texas is a big place to explore.
I'm looking forward to when you can once more enjoy your car. If it is delayed, you are always welcome to travel to Texas and I'll loan you my car for a few days so you can explore the old frontier...Texas is a big place to explore.
I appreciate your offer very much. I'll take you up on it when we travel to Texas next time
06-12-2019, 01:09 PM
Here is what I would try. Write down what settings you change so if anything undesirable happens you can go flip it back. There are several options in the IC variant coding with selections between miles and km. 
