Lowering Links a Mercedes Part!?!
#1
Lowering Links a Mercedes Part!?!
So a lot of shops are now using links bought from Mercedes Benz!!! Supposedly there is a Benz part. I know of two alone that order straight from the dealership. Now... does anyone know the part number or vehicle they come off of!?
#4
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Basically. I don't know which model it comes from, but all you do is get a longer version of it for the front and shorter version for the rear. Some shops then bend it to adjust the height, which is very ghetto to say the least.
Do the adjustable links or ELM.
Do the adjustable links or ELM.
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3-five-five/ TUNDRA/ 07 997 cab
Nice! Ill have to go check that out. I thought there was 3 total on the E classes. From what I understand the links are adjustable from factory!?! It just doesn't make sense for me to pay 300 dollars for links or have a shop that knows the part charge me 250 - 300 when I can do it myself for a lot less!!
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2007 CLK63 Cab
There are 2 Links in the front and 1 long Link in the rear for the E & CLS Class. Trust me guys I'm not just saying this to promote my product by I have played around with every possible method of lowering vehicles with Airmatic Suspension. That is why I made up my own Links that are super easy to install and adjust. Now don't get me wrong every other way talked about will do the job its just how long do you wanna mess around with the install. My kits can be installed and adjusted afterwords in 15min, by someone who has experience with them maybe a hour for a 1st timer, where as some of these other methods can take hours of playing around to get the vehicle to the exact height of your liking.
Another benifit from Links is the option of returning the vehicle back to stock and can then sell the Kit. Don't think a customer has had a used set for sale on this board that didn't sell quick. Can't do that with Star.
Another benifit from Links is the option of returning the vehicle back to stock and can then sell the Kit. Don't think a customer has had a used set for sale on this board that didn't sell quick. Can't do that with Star.
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
ELM preferred.
http://www.renntechmercedes.com/showroom_suspension.php
Just a FYI not affiliated with RT
http://www.renntechmercedes.com/showroom_suspension.php
Just a FYI not affiliated with RT
#15
I have the factory mercedes links and I can tell you from experience recently:
IF YOU GO LOWER THAN WHAT THESE WILL ALLOW, THE CAR WILL NOT RIDE WELL. I tried to more washers up front, then 1 washer, and then relized no washers and the adjustable link as much as it will let you go is the best all around. They are affordable but I don't have the part number.
IF YOU GO LOWER THAN WHAT THESE WILL ALLOW, THE CAR WILL NOT RIDE WELL. I tried to more washers up front, then 1 washer, and then relized no washers and the adjustable link as much as it will let you go is the best all around. They are affordable but I don't have the part number.
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2015 S212
ELM preferred.
http://www.renntechmercedes.com/showroom_suspension.php
Just a FYI not affiliated with RT
http://www.renntechmercedes.com/showroom_suspension.php
Just a FYI not affiliated with RT
If yuo are going to play with the links, then just slightly bend the rear plate where the sensor link is mounted. No need to remove it and dremel or replace links. It also avoids the extremely tedious rear install. Just for clarity, I have played a butt load with the Airmatic and had the first set of modified links out but went with the ELM in the end.
#17
+1 and I am hated by Renntech.
If yuo are going to play with the links, then just slightly bend the rear plate where the sensor link is mounted. No need to remove it and dremel or replace links. It also avoids the extremely tedious rear install. Just for clarity, I have played a butt load with the Airmatic and had the first set of modified links out but went with the ELM in the end.
If yuo are going to play with the links, then just slightly bend the rear plate where the sensor link is mounted. No need to remove it and dremel or replace links. It also avoids the extremely tedious rear install. Just for clarity, I have played a butt load with the Airmatic and had the first set of modified links out but went with the ELM in the end.
So once again, I really just wanted the part number for the mercedes part that will allow the E class to be lowered! thanks guys...
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E-ZGO 53hp., 1999 E 430 sport, 2004 E 55, 2008 Tahoe LTZ on 24"s
ya... but I don't feel like spending 1k. balla on a budget right now... hahaha and I have done links in the past on other air ride vehicles and they worked perfect.
So once again, I really just wanted the part number for the mercedes part that will allow the E class to be lowered! thanks guys...
So once again, I really just wanted the part number for the mercedes part that will allow the E class to be lowered! thanks guys...
I just want to share some thoughts, I had an Air-Matic failure and it happened right after I hit a 2.5"-3" ledge @ 80 in the road. I am sure it bottomed out the strut, I have read here on MBWorld other accounts of similar failures. I can't prove that if you lower your car and hit a bump that you will be more susceptible to strut damage, but it dose stand to reason.
I think the advantage of the ELM is being able to raise the car to the max hight or higher, if you use the links your raised hight is lower too. I have 3 places that I need to lift the car and approach on the diagonal to keep from scraping, I am sure some of you have places like that too.
I do not know if the STAR will give you the original raised hight either.
One should do an alignment after lowering and most times this will require the crash bolts to get the camber in the ball park.
FWIW
new strut $1200
Rebuilt Strut $400
CF Lip $600
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07 E63, 12 E350, 14 GLK350, 16 C450
Anyone else have any experience with John V's Adjustable Links, what range of drop can you get min and max?
I'm just looking for a modest drop on the stock 18's, but plan to go to 19's or 20's in the future so would need a way to go back up a tad.
With the OEM links how much can you expect?
Lastly why go with STAR over ELM or vice-versa? And if anyone knows of a good shop in the Bay Area that knows what theyre doing?
I'm just looking for a modest drop on the stock 18's, but plan to go to 19's or 20's in the future so would need a way to go back up a tad.
With the OEM links how much can you expect?
Lastly why go with STAR over ELM or vice-versa? And if anyone knows of a good shop in the Bay Area that knows what theyre doing?
Last edited by yippyskippy107; 12-17-2009 at 01:22 AM. Reason: Add STAR & ELM Comment
#21
Former Vendor of MBWorld
You are not alone rocking the budget, and I think the ELM is way over priced.
I just want to share some thoughts, I had an Air-Matic failure and it happened right after I hit a 2.5"-3" ledge @ 80 in the road. I am sure it bottomed out the strut, I have read here on MBWorld other accounts of similar failures. I can't prove that if you lower your car and hit a bump that you will be more susceptible to strut damage, but it dose stand to reason.
I think the advantage of the ELM is being able to raise the car to the max hight or higher, if you use the links your raised hight is lower too. I have 3 places that I need to lift the car and approach on the diagonal to keep from scraping, I am sure some of you have places like that too.
I do not know if the STAR will give you the original raised hight either.
One should do an alignment after lowering and most times this will require the crash bolts to get the camber in the ball park.
FWIW
new strut $1200
Rebuilt Strut $400
CF Lip $600
I just want to share some thoughts, I had an Air-Matic failure and it happened right after I hit a 2.5"-3" ledge @ 80 in the road. I am sure it bottomed out the strut, I have read here on MBWorld other accounts of similar failures. I can't prove that if you lower your car and hit a bump that you will be more susceptible to strut damage, but it dose stand to reason.
I think the advantage of the ELM is being able to raise the car to the max hight or higher, if you use the links your raised hight is lower too. I have 3 places that I need to lift the car and approach on the diagonal to keep from scraping, I am sure some of you have places like that too.
I do not know if the STAR will give you the original raised hight either.
One should do an alignment after lowering and most times this will require the crash bolts to get the camber in the ball park.
FWIW
new strut $1200
Rebuilt Strut $400
CF Lip $600
I wanna say that this is incorrect. When I raise my car up, it's like a 4x4 and there's a massive gap between the wheels and tires. And as you can see on my sig, I'm slammed!
Anyone else have any experience with John V's Adjustable Links, what range of drop can you get min and max?
I'm just looking for a modest drop on the stock 18's, but plan to go to 19's or 20's in the future so would need a way to go back up a tad.
With the OEM links how much can you expect?
Lastly why go with STAR over ELM or vice-versa? And if anyone knows of a good shop in the Bay Area that knows what theyre doing?
I'm just looking for a modest drop on the stock 18's, but plan to go to 19's or 20's in the future so would need a way to go back up a tad.
With the OEM links how much can you expect?
Lastly why go with STAR over ELM or vice-versa? And if anyone knows of a good shop in the Bay Area that knows what theyre doing?
Star from what I understand lets you lower but only so much.
ELM is good too, but super expensive and an electronic way of modifying the car to lower, whereas adjustable links are a mechanical way to do it.
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07 E63, 12 E350, 14 GLK350, 16 C450
Ok. So I know of a shop thats done drops via the OEM links, they should be able to figure out your adjustable ones?
I just want modest drop, like .5 inch, whats the minimum drop on these?
I just want modest drop, like .5 inch, whats the minimum drop on these?
#25
Former Vendor of MBWorld
swapping out links is easy as cake. Any shop can do it. Heck, you can do it yourself. And yes, you can drop as little as you want, it's adjustable Doing it with OEM links doesn't allow for much adjustability.