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Getting dealer to replace I/C pump

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Old 03-22-2011, 01:50 PM
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Getting dealer to replace I/C pump

Hello guys,
I am having a bit of trouble getting my local dealer to replace my IC pump on my 06 e55 (42k miles)

The car is in service right now and the service writer just informed me that his tech is unable to replicate the problem. He told me that his tech cannot do back to back WOT runs (which I understand) due to legal reasons.

I told him that I was able to determine that the IC pump was bad by monitoring real time IAT temps. Cruising on the freeway at 70 mph on a 69 degree night I am seeing 150-155 temps. This is just cruising. Off the interstate the temps will drop to 130s.

Does anyone have any idea how I can relate this to my service writer and get it replaced?

Thanks
Paul

Edit the car is under a CPO warranty
Old 03-22-2011, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by pbsis
Hello guys,
I am having a bit of trouble getting my local dealer to replace my IC pump on my 06 e55 (42k miles)

The car is in service right now and the service writer just informed me that his tech is unable to replicate the problem. He told me that his tech cannot do back to back WOT runs (which I understand) due to legal reasons.

I told him that I was able to determine that the IC pump was bad by monitoring real time IAT temps. Cruising on the freeway at 70 mph on a 69 degree night I am seeing 150-155 temps. This is just cruising. Off the interstate the temps will drop to 130s.

Does anyone have any idea how I can relate this to my service writer and get it replaced?

Thanks
Paul

Edit the car is under a CPO warranty
I seem to recall my SA telling me IC pumps rarely fail completely, but often have extremely low flow rates. He went on to say they have to be flow tested to be sure. Maybe you can convince your service guy to perform a flow test on the IC pump.
Old 03-22-2011, 02:05 PM
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ok thanks for the idea, when he calls back I will suggest that
Old 03-22-2011, 02:18 PM
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the problem with the pumps is that the impellers will wear down or break off. The pump will still sound fine and look fine to STAR but won't move any liquid.
Old 03-22-2011, 02:23 PM
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Provide him with the data logged information or better yet, go over there, data log the car infront of the tech, and let him see for himself
Old 03-22-2011, 02:31 PM
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MB techs are dumb as rocks sometimes,they only fix what the computer tells them is wrong.I had the same problem getting mine fixed also.

It was 90 out and my car was sitting at 166 idle and the car would skyrocket to 190 with one pull.

He said he would change out the pump but told me it was working and it would throw a code.

got the car back and I showed him 104d idle in 85 weather and he was like I guess youre right!!!

Just so you know if you are giving the car light throttle it wont run the pump,so when you log it look what it does when you jab the throttle and then let off.It should spike for a second and then cool right down.

Last edited by skratch77; 03-22-2011 at 02:33 PM.
Old 03-22-2011, 03:33 PM
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Thanks guys this is great!

I am probably going to end up running over to the dealer 2moro and data log with the tech in the car and show him the IAT temps.

Skratch are you saying that the pump isnt running all the time but only when the TPS, or whatever these cars have, reaches a certain point?

This confuses me somewhat and I need some clarification for when I talk to the tech. I dont want to be giving him wrong information.

Are my 150 degree interstate temps normal at cruise? That would make them 80 above ambient temp outside at 70 mph.

Once I jab the throttle and got WOT how long should a healthy pump take to return to normal?

A non healthy pump would not return to normal correct or would do so very slowly.

Also normal is considered 30 degrees above ambient temp correct?

Sorry for so many questions I just want to be informed when I talk to them and not look like an idiot!

Thanks
Paul
Old 03-22-2011, 03:46 PM
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It suprises me they would not jump to replace the IC pump since the car is under warranty.
Old 03-22-2011, 04:03 PM
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Its not that they don't want to replace it, but unless u have an established relationship with your rep they are going to go strictly by the book meaning they will not replace anything unless they have an error code or an obvious malfunction. I was in the exact same situation, and became friendly with the tech working on my car, and he said to disconnect something (can't remember) and it will throw a code and they will replace it no issues. Hope that helps.
Old 03-22-2011, 04:08 PM
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The pump work when you engage the supercharger.
Old 03-22-2011, 04:22 PM
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this is what you need to tell him loss or power after back to back runs. I doubt they will monitor IATs at the dealership.
Be persistent and they will repalce it for you. they know it is a common problem.

You can also test if the pump is working. remove the bleed nipple and connect a clear hose to it and put the other end of the hose into the reservoir and attach 12v to the pump and it should turn on and you will ee the fluid circulate. If you have access to STAR you can actuate the IC pump.
Old 03-22-2011, 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by shardul
this is what you need to tell him loss or power after back to back runs. I doubt they will monitor IATs at the dealership.
Be persistent and they will repalce it for you. they know it is a common problem.

You can also test if the pump is working. remove the bleed nipple and connect a clear hose to it and put the other end of the hose into the reservoir and attach 12v to the pump and it should turn on and you will ee the fluid circulate. If you have access to STAR you can actuate the IC pump.
well thats the thing, I tried this and no fluid whatsoever went thru the hose with the car @90C, and a good pump

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