Meth nozzles locations ?
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From: America
04 E55 AMG
Timing is pulled three stages it's been discussed many times and there's a chart on it too....if my memory serves me correctly it's 35°C, 45°C , and 65°C
95°F, 113°F, 149°F
95°F, 113°F, 149°F
Last edited by MAN55LE; Mar 5, 2014 at 04:02 PM.
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From: Streets of SoFlo
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I should somewhere at the shop, but that set up has been off the car for a year now and the turbos are in. Just welding up the inter cooler piping now and should be tuning soon.
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This place is a joke.
The car is using the IAT sensor to adjust timing so while the combustion chamber may see a cooler charge, the ECU is still pulling timing based on the IAT sensor unless the CL is programmed differently. If you can show me a datalog that shows timing unchanged when your IAT sensor is reading 110, I'll buy you a beer.
I have mine halfway between the end of the core and the IAT sensor, as close to horizontal as I could get it. I'm on E85 so I'm running straight water instead of a meth mix.
Before the water injection, on a 60-130mph pull my IATs would run 80-155°F.
After the water injection, on a 60-130mph pull my IATs would run 80-95°F and flatline... effectively teetering that 95°F barrier when the ECU starts to pull timing
I have mine halfway between the end of the core and the IAT sensor, as close to horizontal as I could get it. I'm on E85 so I'm running straight water instead of a meth mix.
Before the water injection, on a 60-130mph pull my IATs would run 80-155°F.
After the water injection, on a 60-130mph pull my IATs would run 80-95°F and flatline... effectively teetering that 95°F barrier when the ECU starts to pull timing
Here is some good info from the technical people at aquamist explaining just what you are saying, and what I'm trying to do:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...91&postcount=4
Pay special attention to this statement:
The biggest benefit seems to come from cooling the inlet charge, enabling the ECU to give maximum timing. This is assuming you can blow it past the IAT sensor. The IAT timing compensation can be a very strong and evil thing, and water doesn't affect it as much as methanol.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Mar 5, 2014 at 10:59 PM.
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From: SE MI
2005 Mercedes E55 AMG
Thanks for posting, this is exactly the info I have been searching for. The fact you used 100% water is also very promising.
Here is some good info from the technical people at aquamist explaining just what you are saying, and what I'm trying to do:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...91&postcount=4
Pay special attention to this statement:
The biggest benefit seems to come from cooling the inlet charge, enabling the ECU to give maximum timing. This is assuming you can blow it past the IAT sensor. The IAT timing compensation can be a very strong and evil thing, and water doesn't affect it as much as methanol.
Here is some good info from the technical people at aquamist explaining just what you are saying, and what I'm trying to do:
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...91&postcount=4
Pay special attention to this statement:
The biggest benefit seems to come from cooling the inlet charge, enabling the ECU to give maximum timing. This is assuming you can blow it past the IAT sensor. The IAT timing compensation can be a very strong and evil thing, and water doesn't affect it as much as methanol.
What I find interesting, is I'm pretty sure RBJ had his car dynoed with and without the injection and he picked up 72rwhp at the top end... if this is still with the ecu pulling timing that's an amazing difference.
Edit: Found his comment
I think the kc is great for the street. But not for the track. I've driven a E55 w/kc and IATs reached 148. My rear tank and meth never went over 110. And this is in the S FL heat and humidity.
I gained 72rwhp after 6000rpms because the meth cools the top end better than the kc. And you'll have full power through redline. Mine peaked at 550whp and was at 549whp @ 6900rpms.
I gained 72rwhp after 6000rpms because the meth cools the top end better than the kc. And you'll have full power through redline. Mine peaked at 550whp and was at 549whp @ 6900rpms.
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Well, kinda. Lol. I was able to flatline my peak power level, instead of the power falling off after 6000rpms. And with my TCU tune I was running to 7000rpms. The E55 I drove with K/C was Hulk's car. Mine did gain 72 whp. I'll be back at the shop next week and I'll pull up all my graphs.
Last edited by RedBullJnky; Mar 6, 2014 at 08:49 AM.
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From: SE MI
2005 Mercedes E55 AMG
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1994 E500, 2012 e63
Hi guys I think this is my first post on here and just wanted to thank everybody for all the great info. I had to jump into this thread as im in the same boat, ready to install the kit. QUESTION, is it possible that the ecu will not pull timing if no knock is detected, regardless of the iat?
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From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
Hi guys I think this is my first post on here and just wanted to thank everybody for all the great info. I had to jump into this thread as im in the same boat, ready to install the kit. QUESTION, is it possible that the ecu will not pull timing if no knock is detected, regardless of the iat?
I have finally got my car back on the road with modified intercooler, hoses and pumps. I have the 2 meth nozzles installed along with the solenoid, however, I have not had the greatest experience with DevilsOwn, I am now awaiting a 3rd shipment as they sent me an 11' stainless line instead of the 15' line I ordered. The first order, which I waited 2 weeks for, was missing the nozzles and some hardware.
I went with 2 nozzles like I saw some others recommend, #3 pre-supercharger and #7 post intercooler. I made a custom fitting to place the boost sensor at a 90 degree angle and facing downward from it's stock location to avoid spraying meth directly at it, fearing it may lead to a failed sensor.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Mar 31, 2014 at 06:13 PM.
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From: Toronto
1994 E500, 2012 e63
Yes I am aware of the tech info but when I see people spraying after the iat sensor and picking up Alot of power it makes me wonder if it's necessary to pull off my blower to tap for meth and rig up a contraption to relocate my map sensor.
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From: SE MI
2005 Mercedes E55 AMG
The computer pulls timing to save the engine... you don't want to replace one of these engines if you don't have to. People spraying after the IAT and still picking up power is due to the cooling effect of the meth/water in the combustion chamber. You can run it this way if you want, it's just that the computer will still be pulling timing. I'd consider this the safest way to run it, but I chose to go pre IAT myself.
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This place is a joke.
Finally got my meth system installed and wired....and.....the pump wouldn't come on, controller pump light does not work, then found by turning the boost dials to come on later, the pump light comes on all the time.. Luckily I had pulled the fuse for the pump to test everything so no harm done. Looks like the controller is bad, so I'll have to call DevilsOwn tomorrow. Ughh...
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See previous posts for the #7 post-intercooler nozzle, and here is my pre-supercharger #3, but you may want to move it closer to the "amg" lettering...the 90 degree fitting was hitting the TB housing when trying to tighten, and I had to grind the flange a little to clear.
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From: Always Sunny & beautiful, Costa Rica
CLS55 AMG, ML63 AMG, Cayenne S
I would stay away from Devil's Own, I bought their DVC-30 kit, and their "progressive controller" is faulty, I have seen other people post the same problems on DO's forum to no effect...
I spoke to the owner (name is Chance), when I told him about my situation his response was less than stellar "well, send it in, we'll have a look at it). Told me he was going to send me his return address, and I'm still waiting....
Come on!, the controller goes FULL BLAST on ignition with the knobs at 5 and 10psi!!! Has already flooded my engine TWICE becuase that piece of junk goes off and is pumping water even though my engine is OFF!!!
Go with better known brands, these Devil's Own controllers are junk.
I spoke to the owner (name is Chance), when I told him about my situation his response was less than stellar "well, send it in, we'll have a look at it). Told me he was going to send me his return address, and I'm still waiting....
Come on!, the controller goes FULL BLAST on ignition with the knobs at 5 and 10psi!!! Has already flooded my engine TWICE becuase that piece of junk goes off and is pumping water even though my engine is OFF!!!
Go with better known brands, these Devil's Own controllers are junk.
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From: Toronto
1994 E500, 2012 e63
Are you using map sensor voltage to trigger the meth or mechanical (vacuume line) I have heard of spring failure in the controller when mechanical. Also triple check grounds. On a side note I plan on triggering the meth manually from the cockpit ie keyless go button and a manual shut off valve to close the line 100% when not in use in the armrest. Will also have check valves and solenoids In place but I'm sure they will fail eventually.
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From: Always Sunny & beautiful, Costa Rica
CLS55 AMG, ML63 AMG, Cayenne S
Are you using map sensor voltage to trigger the meth or mechanical (vacuume line) I have heard of spring failure in the controller when mechanical. Also triple check grounds. On a side note I plan on triggering the meth manually from the cockpit ie keyless go button and a manual shut off valve to close the line 100% when not in use in the armrest. Will also have check valves and solenoids In place but I'm sure they will fail eventually.
Spring failure?
If the car is idling (no boost), and I turn the controller knob to start at 3psi, the controller goes off... It is such a hassle.
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From: Always Sunny & beautiful, Costa Rica
CLS55 AMG, ML63 AMG, Cayenne S
I was thinking of getting an AEM CONTROLLER...
Would someone please recommend me a boost sensor kit I could use?, how do I match a sensor with a controller?, I've seen some sensor kits from AEM that are 5 bar, I'm concerned a 5 bar sensor would be too much....
Would someone please recommend me a boost sensor kit I could use?, how do I match a sensor with a controller?, I've seen some sensor kits from AEM that are 5 bar, I'm concerned a 5 bar sensor would be too much....
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From: Toronto
1994 E500, 2012 e63
U can use a Hobbs switch to trigger the relay but it defeats the purpose of using the controller. I personally don't see a need for a controller since our cars hit boost soo fast, I would only want to be spraying while the engine is under high load. Ie high rpms,boost, and throttle position. I have a few buddy's with aem, devils own, and cooling mist and they seem to work good. The only thing they have in common is they all spray per TB.
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From: A to the Z (the state)
'06 E55
I would stay away from Devil's Own, I bought their DVC-30 kit, and their "progressive controller" is faulty, I have seen other people post the same problems on DO's forum to no effect...
I spoke to the owner (name is Chance), when I told him about my situation his response was less than stellar "well, send it in, we'll have a look at it). Told me he was going to send me his return address, and I'm still waiting....
Come on!, the controller goes FULL BLAST on ignition with the knobs at 5 and 10psi!!! Has already flooded my engine TWICE becuase that piece of junk goes off and is pumping water even though my engine is OFF!!!
Go with better known brands, these Devil's Own controllers are junk.
I spoke to the owner (name is Chance), when I told him about my situation his response was less than stellar "well, send it in, we'll have a look at it). Told me he was going to send me his return address, and I'm still waiting....
Come on!, the controller goes FULL BLAST on ignition with the knobs at 5 and 10psi!!! Has already flooded my engine TWICE becuase that piece of junk goes off and is pumping water even though my engine is OFF!!!
Go with better known brands, these Devil's Own controllers are junk.
Hmmm, strange to hear that. I have the Devil's Own tank, pump, nozzle, hose, and solenoid, but have it set to trigger a different way. Credit to Bramage for this: we both have the Zeitronix alarm module hooked to the ZT-2, which has programmable alarm parameters. Can do simple or complex alarms (just boost or boost + certain RPM + certain TPS%). Alarm module has a trigger out. That is connected to a relay in the pump's power line. Alarm triggers, relay closes, pump uhh, pumps. The worst part about this setup is finding a damn serial to USB converter that will actually work... unless you have a laptop old enough to have a serial converter.
I like their tank/pump combo because it is low-profile enough to fit in the spare wheel area without contacting the crappy cover thing in the trunk. You know, that one piece that never seems to fit just right. The tank is really high quality and I've had no issues with the pump. I've heard of people having problems with their pumps in the past (alliteration!), but they have since upgraded to a better unit.
I like this setup.
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This place is a joke.
I left a message at D.O. today, Im sure Ill have to send the controller back. Sounds like a bad batch to me. The rest otf the system seems like good quality. I have the 2.5 gallon race tank in back under the trunk floor panel that never fits right (how true!) but I did have to grind some of that panel to clear the tank filler. I bought the progressive system because I wanted to be able to dial back the output without changing nozzles if needed. But you are right, the boost builds fast and at part tnrott
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From: Orbiting the planet
This place is a joke.
(continued)
throttle as well.
Another problem with my controller is the hose barb for the pressure line is too small for the hose they give you, and Im not sure if it will hold @ 13psi, let alone it will leak vacuum at idle if you move the hose around.
throttle as well.
Another problem with my controller is the hose barb for the pressure line is too small for the hose they give you, and Im not sure if it will hold @ 13psi, let alone it will leak vacuum at idle if you move the hose around.
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From: Always Sunny & beautiful, Costa Rica
CLS55 AMG, ML63 AMG, Cayenne S
Hmmm, strange to hear that. I have the Devil's Own tank, pump, nozzle, hose, and solenoid, but have it set to trigger a different way. Credit to Bramage for this: we both have the Zeitronix alarm module hooked to the ZT-2, which has programmable alarm parameters. Can do simple or complex alarms (just boost or boost + certain RPM + certain TPS%). Alarm module has a trigger out. That is connected to a relay in the pump's power line. Alarm triggers, relay closes, pump uhh, pumps. The worst part about this setup is finding a damn serial to USB converter that will actually work... unless you have a laptop old enough to have a serial converter.
I like their tank/pump combo because it is low-profile enough to fit in the spare wheel area without contacting the crappy cover thing in the trunk. You know, that one piece that never seems to fit just right. The tank is really high quality and I've had no issues with the pump. I've heard of people having problems with their pumps in the past (alliteration!), but they have since upgraded to a better unit.
I like this setup.
I like their tank/pump combo because it is low-profile enough to fit in the spare wheel area without contacting the crappy cover thing in the trunk. You know, that one piece that never seems to fit just right. The tank is really high quality and I've had no issues with the pump. I've heard of people having problems with their pumps in the past (alliteration!), but they have since upgraded to a better unit.
I like this setup.
The rest of the equipment is quality, but the controller is faulty, he (DO owner) kept trying to figure out reasons why the controller wasn't working as it should, and when I told him "what about the controller being faulty from factory?", his response was "well, I don't think so, they either work or don't work.", meaning they either turn on and work as they should, or they are DOA.
I am just very unhappy with their customer service (numerous call and emails, took me about a week to get a response), the controller is obviously defective because there is nothing on a simple 3-wire connection that could make the controller act like that (perhaps a bad ground, but that has been thoroughly triple checked), and its not like the ECU is back feeding it, it is using a vacuum line, which is properly sealed, otherwise it wouldn't read anything, does that make sense?
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From: Always Sunny & beautiful, Costa Rica
CLS55 AMG, ML63 AMG, Cayenne S
This is true, my mechanic had to get a different one.
