Joncl

Agreed. At 110* you are pulling timing regardless of the combustion chamber being cooler. Redbull, do you have a log of a run?

MAN55LE

Timing is pulled three stages it's been discussed many times and there's a chart on it too....if my memory serves me correctly it's 35°C, 45°C , and 65°C

95°F, 113°F, 149°F

RedBullJnky

I should somewhere at the shop, but that set up has been off the car for a year now and the turbos are in. Just welding up the inter cooler piping now and should be tuning soon.

E55Greasemonkey

Thanks for posting, this is exactly the info I have been searching for. The fact you used 100% water is also very promising.

Here is some good info from the technical people at aquamist explaining just what you are saying, and what I'm trying to do:

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/...91&postcount=4

Pay special attention to this statement:

The biggest benefit seems to come from cooling the inlet charge, enabling the ECU to give maximum timing. This is assuming you can blow it past the IAT sensor. The IAT timing compensation can be a very strong and evil thing, and water doesn't affect it as much as methanol.

rockthemullet

Not a problem, this is what I'm here for

What I find interesting, is I'm pretty sure RBJ had his car dynoed with and without the injection and he picked up 72rwhp at the top end... if this is still with the ecu pulling timing that's an amazing difference.

Edit: Found his comment

RedBullJnky

Yes I did. Well, kinda. Lol. I was able to flatline my peak power level, instead of the power falling off after 6000rpms. And with my TCU tune I was running to 7000rpms.

The E55 I drove with K/C was Hulk's car. Mine did gain 72 whp. I'll be back at the shop next week and I'll pull up all my graphs.

rockthemullet

Jeez, this makes me want to do a comparison with the IAT reading the lower temp. Niceee

Georgee6086

Hi guys I think this is my first post on here and just wanted to thank everybody for all the great info. I had to jump into this thread as im in the same boat, ready to install the kit. QUESTION, is it possible that the ecu will not pull timing if no knock is detected, regardless of the iat?

E55Greasemonkey

No, the ECU pulls timing based on the IAT starting around 95F regardless. You can read the technical info from MB posted somewhere in this thread.

I have finally got my car back on the road with modified intercooler, hoses and pumps. I have the 2 meth nozzles installed along with the solenoid, however, I have not had the greatest experience with DevilsOwn, I am now awaiting a 3rd shipment as they sent me an 11' stainless line instead of the 15' line I ordered. The first order, which I waited 2 weeks for, was missing the nozzles and some hardware.

I went with 2 nozzles like I saw some others recommend, #3 pre-supercharger and #7 post intercooler. I made a custom fitting to place the boost sensor at a 90 degree angle and facing downward from it's stock location to avoid spraying meth directly at it, fearing it may lead to a failed sensor.

Georgee6086

Yes I am aware of the tech info but when I see people spraying after the iat sensor and picking up Alot of power it makes me wonder if it's necessary to pull off my blower to tap for meth and rig up a contraption to relocate my map sensor.

rockthemullet

The computer pulls timing to save the engine... you don't want to replace one of these engines if you don't have to. People spraying after the IAT and still picking up power is due to the cooling effect of the meth/water in the combustion chamber. You can run it this way if you want, it's just that the computer will still be pulling timing. I'd consider this the safest way to run it, but I chose to go pre IAT myself.

Blowinbyu

Can someone please post pictures of the recommended placement of the 2 nozzle setup?

E55Greasemonkey

Finally got my meth system installed and wired....and.....the pump wouldn't come on, controller pump light does not work, then found by turning the boost dials to come on later, the pump light comes on all the time.. Luckily I had pulled the fuse for the pump to test everything so no harm done. Looks like the controller is bad, so I'll have to call DevilsOwn tomorrow. Ughh...

E55Greasemonkey

See previous posts for the #7 post-intercooler nozzle, and here is my pre-supercharger #3, but you may want to move it closer to the "amg" lettering...the 90 degree fitting was hitting the TB housing when trying to tighten, and I had to grind the flange a little to clear.

Kelvin07

I would stay away from Devil's Own, I bought their DVC-30 kit, and their "progressive controller" is faulty, I have seen other people post the same problems on DO's forum to no effect...

I spoke to the owner (name is Chance), when I told him about my situation his response was less than stellar "well, send it in, we'll have a look at it). Told me he was going to send me his return address, and I'm still waiting....

Come on!, the controller goes FULL BLAST on ignition with the knobs at 5 and 10psi!!! Has already flooded my engine TWICE becuase that piece of junk goes off and is pumping water even though my engine is OFF!!!

Go with better known brands, these Devil's Own controllers are junk.

Georgee6086

Are you using map sensor voltage to trigger the meth or mechanical (vacuume line) I have heard of spring failure in the controller when mechanical. Also triple check grounds. On a side note I plan on triggering the meth manually from the cockpit ie keyless go button and a manual shut off valve to close the line 100% when not in use in the armrest. Will also have check valves and solenoids In place but I'm sure they will fail eventually.

Kelvin07

Vacuum line. I quadrupled checked all wiring.

Spring failure?

If the car is idling (no boost), and I turn the controller knob to start at 3psi, the controller goes off... It is such a hassle.

Kelvin07

I was thinking of getting an AEM CONTROLLER...

Would someone please recommend me a boost sensor kit I could use?, how do I match a sensor with a controller?, I've seen some sensor kits from AEM that are 5 bar, I'm concerned a 5 bar sensor would be too much....

Georgee6086

I think there is a spring in the controller that gets compressed when under boost and once compressed it completes the circuit. I could be wrong tho

Georgee6086

U can use a Hobbs switch to trigger the relay but it defeats the purpose of using the controller. I personally don't see a need for a controller since our cars hit boost soo fast, I would only want to be spraying while the engine is under high load. Ie high rpms,boost, and throttle position. I have a few buddy's with aem, devils own, and cooling mist and they seem to work good. The only thing they have in common is they all spray per TB.

Denroll

Hmmm, strange to hear that. I have the Devil's Own tank, pump, nozzle, hose, and solenoid, but have it set to trigger a different way. Credit to Bramage for this: we both have the Zeitronix alarm module hooked to the ZT-2, which has programmable alarm parameters. Can do simple or complex alarms (just boost or boost + certain RPM + certain TPS%). Alarm module has a trigger out. That is connected to a relay in the pump's power line. Alarm triggers, relay closes, pump uhh, pumps. The worst part about this setup is finding a damn serial to USB converter that will actually work... unless you have a laptop old enough to have a serial converter.

I like their tank/pump combo because it is low-profile enough to fit in the spare wheel area without contacting the crappy cover thing in the trunk. You know, that one piece that never seems to fit just right. The tank is really high quality and I've had no issues with the pump. I've heard of people having problems with their pumps in the past (alliteration!), but they have since upgraded to a better unit.

I like this setup.

E55Greasemonkey

I left a message at D.O. today, Im sure Ill have to send the controller back. Sounds like a bad batch to me. The rest otf the system seems like good quality. I have the 2.5 gallon race tank in back under the trunk floor panel that never fits right (how true!) but I did have to grind some of that panel to clear the tank filler. I bought the progressive system because I wanted to be able to dial back the output without changing nozzles if needed. But you are right, the boost builds fast and at part tnrott

E55Greasemonkey

(continued)

throttle as well.
Another problem with my controller is the hose barb for the pressure line is too small for the hose they give you, and Im not sure if it will hold @ 13psi, let alone it will leak vacuum at idle if you move the hose around.

Kelvin07

Ok, but you are bypassing the controller completely.

The rest of the equipment is quality, but the controller is faulty, he (DO owner) kept trying to figure out reasons why the controller wasn't working as it should, and when I told him "what about the controller being faulty from factory?", his response was "well, I don't think so, they either work or don't work.", meaning they either turn on and work as they should, or they are DOA.

I am just very unhappy with their customer service (numerous call and emails, took me about a week to get a response), the controller is obviously defective because there is nothing on a simple 3-wire connection that could make the controller act like that (perhaps a bad ground, but that has been thoroughly triple checked), and its not like the ECU is back feeding it, it is using a vacuum line, which is properly sealed, otherwise it wouldn't read anything, does that make sense?

Kelvin07

This is true, my mechanic had to get a different one.