saleen01

anyone have a MB diagram on this...specifically around the trunk hinge, i've been told the wires keep tearing around there, and i want to try and fix it myself.
thanks

Worth the wait

Bump instead of starting a new thread.
Search yields no results.

My closer stopped working and want to get in there and root around....would rather not fly blind.

Anybody?

Thanks!

Brian

Bellevue_E55

It's pretty easy to figure out once you get in there.

You will see one or more wires stretched or shredded.
Just cut them and solder in a new section.

Mine shredded in the loop area at the hinge. Unclip the plastic cover

Worth the wait

Thanks!
Drivers side?

My closer in the door does not work either

Bellevue_E55

Yes driver side.

It depends on what wire is shorting. On my car closer wouldn't work and my license plate lights went out.

cij911

I will try to find my post and would be happy to walk you through it...I basically found two wires that were broken...easy to fix, but the real problem IMHO is the plastic cover (over the hinge)....I cut a section out of the plastic hinge cover so it would not pinch the wires and wrapped the wires in a lot of electrical tape.

Kropf

My trunk closer was working fine until I put parts in the trunk after getting an old recall done and Parktronics fixed (with a controller reset) at a M-B dealership about a month ago. They had just washed my '05 E55, and I brought the fault to the attention of the service dept, but they were closing, so they deferred any diagnosing.

The trunk closer buttons on the trunk lid were dark (NOT illuminated like they used to be), but my license plate bulbs WERE working fine (unlike many others who have both inoperable at the same time). My trunk lid also did NOT get pulled down tight when I manually closed the lid.

This past weekend, I discovered that the Green 30 Amp APX/Maxi fuse #88 in the Rear Pre-fuse Box (F33) (in front of the big battery) was blown and I picked up 2 of the very rare fuses at a NAPA store. Before plugging one in, I put an ohmmeter on the load side, and I'm getting 0 ohms, which looks to be a direct short, so I have not plugged in a new $3 fuse yet.

I've pulled all the related covers and I do NOT see any bare, broken, scuffed, or exposed wires on the driver's side hinge as is frequently discussed. I do NOT see any water related damage (except in the 3rd/High brake light that has 4 LEDs not working - I sealed that lens and have a replacement LED strip arriving in a few days). I don't see any moisture problem with the trunk lid closer buttons (which have been unplugged since measuring Ohms).

I DID find the "Model 211 control module N121" wiring chart (Wiring diagram of remote trunk locking control module pe72.30-u-2101-99da) in the WIS and Fuse 88 is for the trunk closer.

Still diagnosing...

Kropf

Here is cij911's post #30 from E55 electronic trunk close button works intermittenly??:
cij911: Please post a photo of the area next to the hinge that had the damage (i.e. the area of the cover that you cut out). Thank you.

cij911

Kropf - I am not sure I understand what you are looking for, but I will try to get a picture posted in the next few days...

Basically there are several wires that can get pinched and break. If you remove the hinge cover and remove the side trunk liner you will see what I referring to. After I fixed the broken wires, I put a notch in the plastic hinge cover so as to not have the problem re-occur.

Kropf

While there are more wires near the hinge than just for the Trunk Closer, I've attached the Wiring diagram of the remote trunk locking control module (N121) and its related components. (It gets shrunk down in the upload, so PM me if you want an original 1920x853 scan.)

This past weekend, I uncovered the problem that shorted out my Trunk Closer. When the dealership tech was repairing my Parktronics system, he apparently did not remount the Rear SAM unit correctly onto its lower bracket, and one of the mounting pins remained exposed and nicked/shorted out the GreeN wire between the TLC [HDS] (Trunk Locking Control) Module N121 Plug 1 pin 14 and the Power Locking Switch motor pin 1, which then blew the 30 Amp Maxi fuse 88. I repaired the wire, remounted the Rear SAM unit onto its bottom bracket (with the previously exposed mounting tab correctly inserted into the Rear SAM slot), and all works fine again with my Trunk Closer.

(While I had most of the trunk covers removed, I cleaned years worth of leaves and dirt from under the rear window drainage gutters on each side of the trunk opening, and repaired my 3rd Brake Light.)

To turn an unpleasant experience from the dealership to good, they're providing me some SDS updating next week which will be much appreciated.

Unfortunately for those with stretched and/or shredded wires at the trunk hinge location, that was not my problem as mine looked fine, so I can not detail that.

P.S. Here is a link to the W211 forum that includes photos from others that have had the broken wire problems.