MBH Long Tube Headers and Mids **special pricing**
#29
MBWorld Fanatic!
Not only do these headers exude quality, but Mike's service after the sale has been fantastic. I contacted DynoComp about an issue I am having, shortly thereafter Mike contacted me directly and is handling the issue himself.
I am confident that if anyone has an issue with theirs, MBH/DynoComp will stand behind their product and their lifetime warranty. Excellent customer service thus far!
I am confident that if anyone has an issue with theirs, MBH/DynoComp will stand behind their product and their lifetime warranty. Excellent customer service thus far!
#32
#36
#37
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Northern Va
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Dirt Scooters
I think $500 would be fair. I have/had kleemanns but i'm either going with these or see if when my engine goes back together if my friend will be able to do my custom set in a timely manner lol.
#38
MBWorld Fanatic!
#39
Might want to budget more than $500. With the stock exhaust manifolds out, it's a great time to replace the spark plugs and and motor mounts before installing the new headers.
#40
MBWorld Fanatic!
oh yea good advise, engine mounts and tranny mount go out soon or later, good timing to do them all in one shot.
#42
MBWorld Fanatic!
I paid $600 to install my LTH..less than 5 hours. He was going to replace the engine mounts and trans mount for free..free labor I mean. Since I got the mount replaced under warranty. Labor for the LTH was still $600
#44
well it seems i need to get some more quotes else where. the place i went to is highly recommended and work on alot of nice cars. there was a 1200whp ugr lambo there and sls amg to say the least. [IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PATTYH%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.png[/IMG][IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PATTYH%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png[/IMG]<a href="http://s1155.photobucket.com/albums/p548/AMGmillz/?action=view&current=photo.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p548/AMGmillz/photo.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/PATTYH%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]
#47
MBWorld Fanatic!
#49
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Thread Starter
With really any header mod, its important to check the motor mounts before you do anything. You will want to address that if they are bad. It could cause a header system to not fit right.
Another thing is... Just about all long tube require you to remove some parts for the install. including coil packs (top side) plug wires, and the steering shaft. The steering shaft is goes in and out pretty easy. However when the steering shaft is out. its important that you do not move your steering wheel inside the car. This will cause the steering angle sensor to break. Resulting in traction control to not work. Maybe even the ABS ( it's been a while since i broke a SAS, so I can't recall if the ABS is affected as well) So don't make the mistake I did years ago and mistakenly move the steering wheel when you have the shaft out. Other wise its a trip to the dealer for a new one.
Once you have those parts off, its just a matter of unbolting and bolting. Another tip is to follow the stamping on the valve cover when you put your coil packs back on. It will tell you what one goes where in correspondence with the markings on the coil packs. Other than that its not a hard job to do, unless you like using jack stands and a creeper. Then it become a challenge.
Last thing, be careful not to cut yourself on the metal gaskets when you take them off sometimes they don't come off very easy. They like to get stuck on the header stud threads. I've cut myself a few times and it does not feel good at all.
Another thing is... Just about all long tube require you to remove some parts for the install. including coil packs (top side) plug wires, and the steering shaft. The steering shaft is goes in and out pretty easy. However when the steering shaft is out. its important that you do not move your steering wheel inside the car. This will cause the steering angle sensor to break. Resulting in traction control to not work. Maybe even the ABS ( it's been a while since i broke a SAS, so I can't recall if the ABS is affected as well) So don't make the mistake I did years ago and mistakenly move the steering wheel when you have the shaft out. Other wise its a trip to the dealer for a new one.
Once you have those parts off, its just a matter of unbolting and bolting. Another tip is to follow the stamping on the valve cover when you put your coil packs back on. It will tell you what one goes where in correspondence with the markings on the coil packs. Other than that its not a hard job to do, unless you like using jack stands and a creeper. Then it become a challenge.
Last thing, be careful not to cut yourself on the metal gaskets when you take them off sometimes they don't come off very easy. They like to get stuck on the header stud threads. I've cut myself a few times and it does not feel good at all.