When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I need help figuring this rpm issue... car runs fine when driving but if it's on P it's not sitting were it should be!!
You mean the rpm is high or idles rough?
It could mean you have a vacuum leak. Make sure all vacuum lines are secured and connected. For example, make sure that metal vacuum line (drivers side) is connected to the supercharger / is fully inserted into the black grommet covered hole on back of S/C.
You might try a hard TB reset.
If you have STAR, you could make adjustments to the idle rpm, TB angle and TB reset.
I did my valve covers so I may have left that unplugged?? I just don't know what it looks like... is it noticeable or can it be seen
Other than that everything seems snug car runs drives fine just idles are 1k when on P
I was going to ask if you did your valve covers gaskets or had them off for any reason.
There is a metal vacuum tube that runs behind and under the drivers side valve cover that you basically have to pull out to get the last bolt off of the valve cover. You can push it in place so that the bolt lines up again, and still not actually have it in the right place. Guarantee that's where your code is coming from.
I was going to ask if you did your valve covers gaskets or had them off for any reason.
There is a metal vacuum tube that runs behind and under the drivers side valve cover that you basically have to pull out to get the last bolt off of the valve cover. You can push it in place so that the bolt lines up again, and still not actually have it in the right place. Guarantee that's where your code is coming from.
I replaced valve cover gaskets and plugs...
Are u saying I have to take the valve cover off again :O man I hope not!!
I took it off pretty easy just undid the fuel line that was it...
I checked that metal and the hose is in it... I see nothing lose or undone
But sure seems like something might be
I replaced valve cover gaskets and plugs...
Are u saying I have to take the valve cover off again :O man I hope not!!
I took it off pretty easy just undid the fuel line that was it...
I checked that metal and the hose is in it... I see nothing lose or undone
But sure seems like something might be
Unless you follow that hose with your hands and feel it into that little hole, it can totally feel like it's seated somewhere, but it won't be where it needs to be. all you need to do is remove that one bolt, to loosen the hose so you can position it correctly.
Same thing happened to me when I did my gaskets, and same thing happened to a bunch of other members when they did theirs. It feels like it's in, but it wasn't. Use a mirror and a flash light to be extra sure.
Unless you follow that hose with your hands and feel it into that little hole, it can totally feel like it's seated somewhere, but it won't be where it needs to be. all you need to do is remove that one bolt, to loosen the hose so you can position it correctly.
Same thing happened to me when I did my gaskets, and same thing happened to a bunch of other members when they did theirs. It feels like it's in, but it wasn't. Use a mirror and a flash light to be extra sure.
I bet that's the issue I just need some more visual.help...
The bolt your saying to remove, where is it??
Am at work but soon as I get home I'll remove the whole intake so I can see more.. if you have any pictures off what your explaining that will be helpful
I bet that's the issue I just need some more visual.help...
The bolt your saying to remove, where is it??
Am at work but soon as I get home I'll remove the whole intake so I can see more.. if you have any pictures off what your explaining that will be helpful
The bolt I'm referring to is one of the valve cover bolts. If my memory serves me correctly it is the last bolt on the rear of the driver's side valve cover, on the top side. That metal hose actually has a metal eyelet/loom that that valve cover bolt goes through, thus securing the hose in place once the valve cover is fully fastened.
I'm thinking you either: A. Didn't reattach the hose to the valve cover bolt, and it's just floating in space; or B. reattached it but didn't insert the metal hose into the grommet on the back of the super charger.
The easiest way by far is to remove the driver's side surge tank - which is actually extremely easy and doesn't involve any prep - and then it will be clearly visible where the hose needs to go.
I would:
1. Remove the fuel line above the driver's side valve cover
2. Remove the valve cover bolt (pictured)
3. Remove the surge tank
4. Properly seat the tube
5. Properly fasten the tube to the valve cover bolt
6. Re-install surge tank and fuel line.
The bolt I'm referring to is one of the valve cover bolts. If my memory serves me correctly it is the last bolt on the rear of the driver's side valve cover, on the top side. That metal hose actually has a metal eyelet/loom that that valve cover bolt goes through, thus securing the hose in place once the valve cover is fully fastened.
I'm thinking you either: A. Didn't reattach the hose to the valve cover bolt, and it's just floating in space; or B. reattached it but didn't insert the metal hose into the grommet on the back of the super charger.
The easiest way by far is to remove the driver's side surge tank - which is actually extremely easy and doesn't involve any prep - and then it will be clearly visible where the hose needs to go.
I would:
1. Remove the fuel line above the driver's side valve cover
2. Remove the valve cover bolt (pictured)
3. Remove the surge tank
4. Properly seat the tube
5. Properly fasten the tube to the valve cover bolt
6. Re-install surge tank and fuel line.
All that should only take 20 minutes tops.
Thx man I appreciate it... I think I know what your talking about.the bolt on the top right
Now that I think about it, I don't remember if it's necessary to remove the fuel line to get that bolt out.... Obviously don't do that if it isn't necessary lol.
thank you everyone for all your help.... got it fixed it sure was that silver line unplugged from the supercharger as everyone mentioned... idle is back to perfect
thx mancy for coming down and helping me with it... and as always thanks to shardul for his assistance
thank you everyone for all your help.... got it fixed it sure was that silver line unplugged from the supercharger as everyone mentioned... idle is back to perfect
thx mancy for coming down and helping me with it... and as always thanks to shardul for his assistance
My theory - breather hose (PCV, diverter valve, heard about a hundred terms for it) goes bad, letting in un-metered air AFTER the MAFs, thus causing a rough idle, possible lean codes and or timing issues to compensate. The breather hose connects from the back of your crank case to the left rear of your intake manifold.
Maybe the techs aren't TSing it properly. My suggestion: Easiest first - replace the breather hose (either with or without the intake manifold removed) part # A1560100170, check this post to install with the manifold left on - sounds and looks like a pain though! https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...-m156-e63.html
If you can't get to it or want to look around a bit more remove the intake manifold. Be sure to replace your gaskets and 1 time use bolts (A0049905312).
While you have the manifold off, open the belly pan and check the throttle-body plate adapter. I got mine off this weekend and unfortunately found it to be corroded just like Robert AMGs
It wasn't terribly difficult to get to, but successfully troubleshooting it was a bitter sweet experience - happy to find the source of the issue but pissed that MB doesn't sell a replacement plate itself! We have to purchase the entire intake manifold!
It would be awesome if Renntech sold their CNCd throttle-body housing/adapter plate as a replacement (found on their 82mm upgrade). I'd hate to spend the $2500 for an entire intake manifold, and have the issue pop back up later. On the other hand, the plate from Renntech looks robust, but $4k is hard to justify since all I need is the plate.
E63007 - /QUOTE]
Hello there!!
I just spent the last month waiting for the title to come through on my purchase of a sweet 2007 E63. Another couple weeks with it at the body shop before I took it out for MY 1st Maiden Voyage only to find the Idle at start up reading 1100-1200 rpm! Talk about Bittersweet! It drives so well, with the exception of the slight pull to the right but I'm fully stocked to rebuild the front suspension, but when I brake to stop, the high Idle effects the kick down shifting such that it jumps when reaching 3rd and especially 2nd gear in "C" (Comfort) Mode!!!
I've searched long and hard on these forums to get an inkling of an idea on how to address this issue. Obviously the first would be to get Star Diagnostic, but I've yet to buy the Asian c4 or C5 etc. pCV/EGR hose leaks or faulty connections are two others at the top of the list. My car being NA (Non-turbo), I'm not certain how many vacuum hoses may need to be renewed, if any? Trying to find the answer to that question has proved to be a real time draw! Any confirmations along this line would be appreciated!!
Another possible cause is, of course, covered in this post. Being that this post is fairly recent, I was wondering if you all have seen this EBay Special for a "New" Aftermarket Intake Manifold Center Plate Gasket Kit??? $200 seems like it would be money well spent without having to pay $2000+ for entirely new Intake Manifold should this issue arise??
08-24-2012, 07:09 AM
