Replacing batteries
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From: Usa
mgLipGD
Replacing batteries
Keep getting an ESP malfunction and had the dealer run a short test today and lots of faults for low voltage. They suggested replacing both batteries with OE MB ones. After some research seems its likely just the aux battery. So I will get a new one today. I assume one I can pick up from any auto parts place will do??? Any reason to stick to the OE MB battery?
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From: Seattle
2014 AMG E63S, 2006 XK8 victory edition convertible, 2006 supercharged trailblazer SS, 2001 E430
Wow. i didnt know we had 2 batts. I know one is in the trunk. Where is the 2nd one located?
As far as OEM vs aftermarket batteries, there are only about 3 car battery manufacturers here in the U.S. So unless MB imports batteries from Germany, I'd say go with a any trusted brand with a good warranty. Just double check size/group number, ventilation, and CCA's and you should be good.
As far as OEM vs aftermarket batteries, there are only about 3 car battery manufacturers here in the U.S. So unless MB imports batteries from Germany, I'd say go with a any trusted brand with a good warranty. Just double check size/group number, ventilation, and CCA's and you should be good.
Last edited by nizzle; Nov 7, 2012 at 01:24 PM.
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From: Usa
mgLipGD
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2014 AMG E63S, 2006 XK8 victory edition convertible, 2006 supercharged trailblazer SS, 2001 E430
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From: Folsom, CA
2005 E55 AMG
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...y-battery.html
what you need for the AUX battery is: 14BS Motorcycle battery
what you need for the AUX battery is: 14BS Motorcycle battery
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From: Folsom, CA
2005 E55 AMG
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mgLipGD
Got one for 60 I think from batteries plus already charged. Swapped it out and same issue. Will disconnect both later tonight and then do the ESP reset and see how it goes. If not then I will do the trunk battery next.
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mgLipGD
Ok replaced the aux under the hood, and then stopped by Auto Zone to have the main battery tested. It had a 65% charge he said and that the battery tested healthy just low on charge and the alternator seemed fine as well.
Got a battery charger since he said a charge should fix it. Plug it up when I get home let it do its thing. Once the light comes on saying its done I discon the the neg of the main battery and also on the aux battery. Then wait about 1-2min the recon the main battery first and then the aux.
Crank up the car no messages were showing but I do the steering wheel to the left lock, hold for 5sec, and the to the right lock, hold for 5sec. Reset the windows and pano roof, and turn the car off. Crank it up again go for a quick drive, hit the throttle hard, same damn message "ESP Malfunction". Grrrrrrrr.
So I have now discon the main battery and have the aux plugged to the charger. I will let it all sit overnight and then try again tomorrow. This is really starting to **** me off since the test MB gave me today had tons of random faults mostly due to "under-voltage" so they thought it would be the batteries and said to replace them both.
If this doesn't work I guess I will try the main battery replacement and hope for the best. If that doesn't work I don't know what else to do.
Got a battery charger since he said a charge should fix it. Plug it up when I get home let it do its thing. Once the light comes on saying its done I discon the the neg of the main battery and also on the aux battery. Then wait about 1-2min the recon the main battery first and then the aux.
Crank up the car no messages were showing but I do the steering wheel to the left lock, hold for 5sec, and the to the right lock, hold for 5sec. Reset the windows and pano roof, and turn the car off. Crank it up again go for a quick drive, hit the throttle hard, same damn message "ESP Malfunction". Grrrrrrrr.
So I have now discon the main battery and have the aux plugged to the charger. I will let it all sit overnight and then try again tomorrow. This is really starting to **** me off since the test MB gave me today had tons of random faults mostly due to "under-voltage" so they thought it would be the batteries and said to replace them both.
If this doesn't work I guess I will try the main battery replacement and hope for the best. If that doesn't work I don't know what else to do.
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From: Racine, WI
2003 E55 AMG
Thought I read on the forum somewhere that some were having similar problems and it ended up being the voltage regulator? I think there is a thread on it by Loungin14? Could be wrong but thought I throw it out there
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03 E55 AMG, 06 Harley Road King Custom 06 Ram 2500 Cummins, 97 Firebird Race Car, 88 Cutlass Supreme
I was gonna suggest a new voltage regulator as well. Seems its not getting the voltage it likes when running and its the alternator that bumps you up around 14.X volts that pushes it up there. They're a wear item and plenty of people end up needing to replace them. Around $50 and 20 min to install. Good peace of mind. I replaced my crank position sensor early cause its a known problem and about the same price and even easier to install. 100 now could keep you out of trouble when you don't have time for it later.
There's a way to display voltage on the dash but forgot how its done. You should be low 14.X unless you have all kinds of electrical stuff on. Even then mid-high 13.X should be seen. Really shouldn't even drop that much though.
There's a way to display voltage on the dash but forgot how its done. You should be low 14.X unless you have all kinds of electrical stuff on. Even then mid-high 13.X should be seen. Really shouldn't even drop that much though.
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From: Tampa
E55
I had the same issue its the alternator not the voltage reagulator. I went through the same steps replaced both battiers and was still getting the light but only after a little heavy throttle. The weird part about the whole situation the alternator was replaced about two months before but it was replaced with a reman alternator. I ended up having the alternator repaired it ended up being a shaft coming loose and losing connection at heavy throttle
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From: Tampa
E55
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2004 E55,1969 300SEL6.3,2011 ML350 BlueTec Diesel,2005 ML400 CDI
I was gonna suggest a new voltage regulator as well. Seems its not getting the voltage it likes when running and its the alternator that bumps you up around 14.X volts that pushes it up there. They're a wear item and plenty of people end up needing to replace them. Around $50 and 20 min to install. Good peace of mind. I replaced my crank position sensor early cause its a known problem and about the same price and even easier to install. 100 now could keep you out of trouble when you don't have time for it later.
There's a way to display voltage on the dash but forgot how its done. You should be low 14.X unless you have all kinds of electrical stuff on. Even then mid-high 13.X should be seen. Really shouldn't even drop that much though.
There's a way to display voltage on the dash but forgot how its done. You should be low 14.X unless you have all kinds of electrical stuff on. Even then mid-high 13.X should be seen. Really shouldn't even drop that much though.
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From: Canada
07 E63 + 07 CLK63CAB
If the car being an 06 and still has the original battery in the trunk, this should be changed out for a new one. The alternator has to work constantly to try and charge up a low battery, an old one needs charge all the time plus run the car. If you show 14+ volts when running the alternator and regulator are fine, replace the rear battery. For another test leave all your lights on and run the heater fan on high for 5 minutes, see if the car starts, bet it will not. Autozone can do a load test on the battery and this for sure will fail on a 6 year old bat.
