I was thinking about doing a keyway out toward front of snout but how the heck did you manage to actually cut a STRAIGHT channel for the keyway? You said you used a dremel and then with the engine in the car you don't have barely any room (unless you took whole front end off) to make things worse, just was just amazed how you got it straight to have a good fit for a new key.

Sorry to hear about this stuff happening, and I was wondering why I have'nt had problems like belts sliding off or crankshaft pulley coming off. I brought my car with the k8 in it two years ago. So aftermarket crank pulley and belt pullies in it with 103,000 miles and no problems with this stuff. With no disrespect to any one, but is it the manufacturer of these parts. I dont know half as much as you guys on here but just does not seem right. By the way ERB your car looks tight.

Hope the damage isnt much

A sad sight. I feel for you man.

I had a solid crank pulley on my celica back in 2006...took 6 months for the vibrations to shatter the oil pump to pieces...it wasn't pretty.

All the best with the repairs man. Your car is a beast!

After Craig's debacle I spoke to Jason in depth and told him the exact same thing that you said in your post. He was new to the M113k and Craig asked me to talk to Jason so he called me and we had quite a long conversation about why the RTR pulley failed.

You are in GREAT HANDS with Jason and BIP!!!

Honestly the crank doesn't look bad at all in person. I also took a micrometer and measured it from different spots on the crank and it was nearly identical to the ones from the BIP crank repair thread. Their pic showed 1.261 and mine was like 1.262 and 1.263 from the 2 positions I did. I will clean the crank up a little with some emory cloth or a scotch brite and it will probably look great.

I looked the best I could with my eyes and then used a mirror to look more from the top and the bottom of the car when I couldn't see the key. I will try to look some more and better tomorrow. I will definitely be either pinning this new stock pulley or making a new keyway for something better than the tiny key that is used. Guess I need to talk to BIP/Craig about this pin kit.

Yep. The key is part of the crank now. Same thing happened to me.

You should be able to slide your finger around the inside part and feel the keyway. Hooefully the picture looks worse than it is.

You can see to the right of the crank snout in this pic where the keyway was. You can't see it on the crank because it basically got rounded off smooth from the loose pulley. Good luck getting it fixed. Sucks for sure.

Aaron

What was the reason for the engine rebuild ?

Now that you say that, I see exactly what you are talking about in the 3 o clock position.

The newer ASP pulley has a damper held by 12 ( I think ) springs to absorb vibration. I've seen similar setups in many aftermarket dampers like this with no issues ever. It doesn't mean you are wrong though, but the oem key is truely small for such a task and having a hard as hell metal for the hub might not be the best idea. I've seen oem style pullies come off so it anything is possible.

This is similar to the ASP pulley except that the rubber is replaced with springs:


Better or worse? Who knows.

I am not sure if you are talking to me or someone else in the thread but there was no engine rebuild.

Aftermarket larger crank pulley just came loose.

Sorry to hear this. Hope your back up and running soon.

I only took the radiator fan off and that's it. I drew a line on the crank as perpendicular to the snout and possible and made a canal with a tungsten carbide bit to the depth I wanted and then widened it to the exact size of the key through trial and error. My pulley has slight wobble which could indicate that it wasn't perfect but close enough apparently.

Gotcha. I am gonna talk to Craig about the little pin kit he used and will probably just do that since it will be nice and straight. I forgot about the tool to hold the crank pulley in place while torquing the new bolt though. I need to look in to that. The tow truck driver gave me the name of a place locally that is supposibly 2 techs that used to work at the Brumos Mercedes Benz dealer and opened up their own place so I may swing by there tomorrow and talk to those guys too.

Isn't Omega run by an ex-Brumos tech? I know he's well known for Porsche service. Right on St. Johns Bluff.

I really don't know any places in the area, this place is called All Euro Car Care off Atlantic just past the Porsche dealer on the opposite side of the road across from Gate gas station. I think I have noticed that Omega place though when driving on 9a, never paid much attention to what it was though.

I believe Omega is run by an ex-master tech. I've seen some very high end cars in there and have heard very good things, not especially cheap though. There's another indy shop down Atlantic between Arlington Rd. and University. I've forgotten the name but you'll know it when you see them as there's usually about 100 Mercs in the parking lot. They did some work for me years back on my old C240's trans, reasonably priced and also a Benz certified tech.

Well I have a stock pulley on the way and a crank pinning tool/kit on the way tomorrow, so hopefully Wednesday I will have them both and get to work on making this thing road worth again. I will take a little time tomorrow to clean up the crank with the scotch brite pad or emory cloth like I mentioned and put my new voltage regulator in and probably order a new battery control module tonight as well to hopefully solve those problems.

Then hopefully Friday Eurocharged will be getting bearings back in stock for the supercharger pullies and will get one of those shipped out shortly after then have Jerry set me up with a different tune for the stock crank pulley, smaller supercharger pulley setup. Guess I will go ahead and take off my 80mm throttle body while I am at it and do the throttle body shaft grind job on it to get a little more flow in there as well since the inside is really only 78mm. Gotta keep myself occupied tomorrow so I don't go crazy thinking about getting this thing fixed.

That what happened to me too. It became apart of the snout

Pinning sound like a good idea to make sure it runs straight. I went with parallel style key since it's just about the strongest kind of key you can get ( heavy duty machinery uses parallel style keys ) but my pulley has slight wobble which doesn't LOOK great but it's survived so far. Pinning should do the trick though. Hope you can fix it quick and cheap.

Push comes to shove, even if the pinning fails you can still go parallel style anyways.

Yeah, I am going to put 2 pins in, one on each side. I will also after cleaning the crank up see if I can get the little piece of key out of it to replace it as well or if I am going to just have to leave it be. I guess all I have is time right now though waiting on the stuff to come so I will give it my best shot and hopefully get it out and looking good tomorrow.

BIP did 2 pins on my 195 and no worries.

Leave the oem key alone. Keep in mind that that same key is also holding the oil and timing chain sprocket in place. Just leave it be and pin the pulley.