Fixed Supercharger Pulley and Eurocharged Tune Gains 70whp+ !
But there were other issues if i remember correctly? Something like a "cold start issue" and another one?
Are they solved?
In essence I believe this is a TB related issue since the situation is worsened with the FSP but is present ever so slightly with the larger TBs. I never had any issues till I got a larger TB. I do not have a FSP as of yet, but I would like to have one and play with it.
I'm still waiting on the newest MAP sensor to come in, so I can see if the hiccup fix also cures this cold start issue. It is much less problematic because the way around it is just to push my keyless go button twice (or key in position 2), wait about ten seconds, and then start the car. I do want to fix that, but the hiccup is still my main point of focus.
BTW, I tried a cold start when it was 100 degrizzles in my garage and the car started normally. I tried again on a different day when it was only 92 degrees and it had the cold start problem. Strange.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
BTW, I tried a cold start when it was 100 degrizzles in my garage and the car started normally. I tried again on a different day when it was only 92 degrees and it had the cold start problem. Strange.
lol degrizzles
Safe to say the Tune for the FSP has been nailed. I road tripped yesterday 200miles, up and down hills, WOT, traffic jams, i got it all with no hiccup. LTFT -0.8% B1, +1.6% B2. 2000 miles since my last retune. Happy to see DR has also resolved his hiccup. Its been a long time coming, alot of persistance has paid off! I guess Jerry from Eurocharged needs Tuner of the year award and Denroll promoted into leading MB technician in the U.S with his contacts in Europe pulling through with the upgraded map and the persistance to get it nailed so others can enjoy this mod also
-Clear codes with scan tool
-Unplug throttle body
-Turn key to position 2, wait 20 seconds
-Turn key to position 1, plug in throttle body
-Turn key to position 2, wait 3 minutes
-Start car from position 2
The hiccup can be described as a misfire or slight hesitation while just cruising along, generally under light throttle. After that, the on/off transition will feel really weird and the idle is usually like crap. Turning the car off and back on clears it until it happens again. If you are monitoring your fuel trims, you will see the STFTs go really high and AFRs will be scary lean.
Or I guess i could pop on a 180 lower.. SHure with there was an 86mm.. lol
Denroll, both our sig pics are OLD. We need new ones, and they need to look the same. You go first!
As long as you know, understand, and accept the risks of not having a clutched pulley and you have the cooling system to back it up (good pump & heat exchanger at a minimum), the fixed pulley is awesome.
As long as you know, understand, and accept the risks of not having a clutched pulley and you have the cooling system to back it up (good pump & heat exchanger at a minimum), the fixed pulley is awesome.
What risks are associated and why did you choose to go this route instead of a crank pulley?
Have you experienced any belt slip with the FSP and belt wrap kit? I have an SL55 with an 80mm FSP and belt wrap kit stock everything else (minus K&Ns) tuned from EC as well, but anything other than moderate throttle just makes a squeal and it just looses power... eventually it gets hot enough and sticks and the car takes off. Just wondering if this has ever been an issue with anyone before.
I've also got a P0107 basically low input to the MAP which I'm about to replace with a bosch MAP sensor 0261 230 191. Just one problem after another it seems like...
Jerry was able to remove most of that big dip in power after the shift.








