Hey guys,

I've owned a 2003 E55 for about a year which has been a blast and have gotten TONS of good info & Help on here!!!

BUT unfortunately I am having an issue, hopefully you guys can help.

Basically I have some mods and car was tuned locally, decided to go one step further and get the smaller S/C Clutch/pulley ( Thanks Shardul )

After installing the pulley I contacted Eurocharged and got a tune for my car.
- 2nd night after the tune, while driving the car felt like it went into failsafe mode after a few minor pulls?
Symptons:
- jittering/shuttering accompanied by MAJOR hesitation + Loss of power at low rpm (1,500-2,500) ( IATs were low )
- Realized if I restart the car the car goes back to normal

Here is a video from that night:


I figured its the tune because this NEVER happened before so contacted Eurocharged and got another tune.
- Same issue as before but then started going into failsafe mode more frequently.
- NOW the car idles rough (engine shakes), feels like a misfire
- Major loss of power ( S/C still kicks in though )

Got ANOTHER tune from Jerry again TODAY but no luck
- Also toady I noticed that there is oil in the throttle body, seems to be coming from a pipe that connects to the Y from the intake, which connects to the TB.

Any idea whats going on? Never had a single issue with the car till now!
NO CELs coming up either
PLEASE HELP!!!

 

The hose that goes into the TB after the Y is PCV. I believe an oil catch can would help that issue. Reading reviews of others who got the SC pulley and tune have said it takes some mileage before the idle smooths out and hesitation recedes. Drive it around normally and let it adapt to the changes. Shouldn't take too long

 

Apparently when reflashing a Mercedes with a Eurocharged tune it does not clear previous adaptations. When I loaded my tune I got misfires and went in to limp mode every time I went WOT. Eurocharged told me to disconnect the battery for at least 3.5 hours to clear the previous adaptations. I did and mine has run flawlessly ever since. Might be something else in your case but it sure is easy to disconnect the battery over night to test it out.

 

Wow! Thanks guys, I didn't expect anyone to reply at. 3:30am.
But I will go and disconnect the battery now and report back in the morning.

 

Up late working on my E too, figured I would chime in! Hopefully it gets worked out soon for you... Not being able to drive the E due to issues really does suck... I would know after it sitting 4+ months now...

 

Same here, just put the last touches on her as far as maintenance and now im shashing!

 

Just got home, hooked the battery back up and no luck still the same.
as far as driving it to let the tune settle in, I drove the car over 100miles between the tunes.

Only tune that I haven't driven on too much is the tune I got yesterday.

I feel like i will do damage if i drive it the way it's misfiring.

 

Personally, I'd park the car in your garage. The last thing you want to do is cause more problems.

Do you have a remote cable from EC? I'd get EC on the phone, and have Jerry see the file, then have him diagnose/tune the car remotely accordingly.

 

Spoke to Jerry yesterday, he sent me a stock file to see if the problem still continues after flashing the car back to stock.

Even after the stock file is flashed the car still misfiring.

 

are you sure the ECU is completely in and hooked up correctly? Could be a connection issue

 

Any codes?

 

+1

 

I never touched or messed around with the ecu, just used the OBD2 cable provided by Eurocharged.
No codes coming up either?

 

If the stock file is misfiring, I would do compression test

 

Can a bad crank shaft position sensor cause this?
Also I will try to get a compression test done.

Jerry from ED e-mailed me and told me to check for vacuum leaks, anyone know common places for vac leaks on these cars? or the best way to check for vac leaks?

 

If the CPS (crank pos sensor) was bad, the car would not start, and if it did, it would most likely die. This car relies entirely on that signal to run properly. And as for searching for vacuum leaks, grab a can of starting fluid and give out light bursts of it around hoses suspected of leaking. You'll know where a leak is if you hit it with starting fluid, the idle will change depending on how close and how much you sprayed into it.

 

I will look for the leak and also try the starter fluid to help find it, thanks for the tip.

I will report back

 

Have you checked all your spark plug wires if they may be lose? Worth the shot
was also gona say ur cats might be clogged but u have no cats so thats out...

 

Check your plugs too, one might have fouled. If you have access to STAR, go into smooth engine running in the ME 2.8 module in engine electronics and see exactly which cylinders are missing.

 

Spray electrical contact cleaner around the throttle body area and various areas including around fuel injectors and surge tanks. If you get a change in idle.....you found your area.

 

BAD NEWS
After some searching for a vacuum leak, I couldn't find anything. So I decided to let the car run and unplug each coil for a sec to see how the car responded, cylinder 8 didn't respond. So I tested the coil and coil was good. Then pulled out the spark plug and it had oil on it.

Did the compression test and Cylinder 8 has low compression (90psi)
This explains all the oil in the throttle body, I cleaned out my K&N filters 2 months ago and there wasn't any oil in there...

I had the car for almost a year & put 16K on it without a single hiccup until I got it tuned less then 30 days ago & thats when all the trouble started

I didn't even put 300 Miles on the car since the tune...

What should I do?

 

So sorry to hear that man. Did you do a compression test before the mods and tune?
Can't blame a tune if you didnt know how healthy your engine was to begin with


Seems I have heard these stories lately from guys buying these cars at relatively low prices and then find out that the engine is not healthy

Again sorry bud

 

I know it sucks.... I did a compression test the week I bought the car, I wanted to make sure I had a good motor before modding. I've put 16,000 miles on it since.

I didn't do a comp test before tune but I did clean my air filters 2 months ago and there was no oil in the Y going to the throttle body.

Not blaming anyone, asking what to do next

 

A rebuild is in order bud

When you did a compression test the first time did#8 have the same compression as the others or close to them?

Also we're both compression tests done with the same gauge and engine at same temps?

 

Fix your issue with cylinder 8, and get a real tune... cough kleeman