DIY Tutorial ATF Transmission Drain and Refill Service 722.649 W211 E55 AMG [5 speed]
04-20-2014, 12:35 PM
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DIY Tutorial ATF Transmission Drain and Refill Service 722.649 W211 E55 AMG [5 speed]
ATF Transmission Drain and Refill Service DIY 722.649 W211 E55 AMG [5 speed]
What: Drain and Refill Transmission service DIY for W211 E55 AMG [5 speed 722.649] (skip to the attached PDFs if you want a pictorial guide)
Summary: I found a great tutorial on an ATF drain and refill from G-AMG on the other MB website. While it was written for a G55 AMG with a similar 722.6xx transmission, the tutorial applies to our car (2003-2006 W211 E55 AMG), but with a caveat:
1. Our W211 E55 AMG only uses approximately 3.5 quarts ATF for a drain and refill of the transmission service. I modified the document to reflect the refill capacity for our cars.
This is tutorial credit belongs to G-AMG. I just wanted to adapt and condense information for our W211 E55 AMG. The pictures by G-AMG are priceless. The dealer will charge around $500 for this exact same service, which is a bit absurd. If you can change your own engine oil, you can easily do this job in an hour and save yourself $400. The key thing is to make sure you have all of the proper tools and supplies before hand.
The W211 E55 AMG has a total capacity of 8.7 liters (9.2 quarts) in the transmission and torque converter. The E55 AMG does NOT have a torque converter plug, thus this service will only remove 40% of old fluid from the transmission. Some old fluid will remain (60%)—this will be fine as you don’t get too much new fluid to “shock” the transmission, especially on older cars where it can potentially dislodge too much sludge and ruin your transmission. If you wanted more fresh fluid, you can do sequential drain and refills which is more gentle on the transmission than a full flush (1st drain/refill/drive for a week (60% old fluid), 2nd drain/refill/drive for a week (36% old fluid), and then 3rd drain/refill/drive (21% old fluid, at 3 cycles, which should be plenty good enough)--or just do the drain and refills more frequently (instead of 40k miles), like when your car is getting the oil changed. I plan to do an ATF drain and refill at least every 20k, and drop the pan ATF service (including new ATF filter and cleaning the pan magnet) at every 40k to ensure I have moderately fresh ATF fluid.
Based on the service history, the ATF in my car was last changed 45k miles ago and it looked an opaque, coffee brown color. New ATF should be a translucent raspberry red color. And the pan magnet had a bit of very fine, particulate metal bits collected on to it (which per forum comments is pretty normal). It was definitely time for the ATF service.
Perform this drain and refill at your own risk—if you aren’t comfortable doing this, then take to your favorite mechanic/dealer to have the ATF service done.
Why change the ATF fluid? Transmission fluid deteriorates over time, especially in our high torque car. New ATF ensures longevity of the transmission. Noticeably smoother shifting.
Difficulty level: 2/5 [easy, just need proper tools]
Time required: 1 hr
How often: Every 40k miles per MB factory recommendations; however, as a drain and refill only gets about 40% of the old fluid out, and based on my ATF fluid color, you may want to do a drain and refill every 20k miles to ensure you are always running relatively fresh ATF in the car; and drop your pan every 40k miles to change out the ATF filter—that’s what I plan on doing
Tools Needed:
1. Torque wrench (for 8Nm and 20Nm)
2. 5mm hex socket (for ATF drain plug on ATF drain pan) [not necessarily needed if you just drop the pan]
3. T30 Torx socket
4. Long funnel that has an end that will fit in the ATF fill tube
5. Large flat pan to collect ATF fluid (enough to hold at least 6 quarts to prevent spillage)
6. Jack stands (consider rubber jack pads as well to reduce damage to unibody rubber pads)
7. 10mm socket (to remove rear-most underbody splash shield)
8. Neoprene gloves (to keep your hands clean)
Required Materials Needed (W211 E55 AMG specific):
1. 4 liter jug Fuchs Titan 4134 ATF. PN: 001989680313 (MB spec 216.14, backwards compatible with original 216.12 spec) [$45 from rmeuropean.com; per Fuchs website, supposedly this Fuchs 4134 is rebranded to MB oil, so save money and buy this fluid vs buying costly “genuine” MB ATF fluid]
2. MB ATF dipstick tool (or equivalent): Mercedes PN: 140589152100 ($42 shipped on eBay, if you look around; otherwise get from RMEuropean.com)
3. ATF drain plug washer: PN: 1402710060 ($2.11) [Rmeuropean.com]
4. ATF genuine drain pan rubber gasket: PN: 1402710080 ($8.42) [Rmeuropean.com]
5. ATF genuine filler cap lock tab: PN: 1409910055 ($1.66) [Rmeuropean.com]
6. ATF genuine transmission filter: PN: 1402770095 ($12.30) [Rmeuropean.com]
Buy over $65 in parts from RMEuropean.com and get free ground shipping. You can get a Febi ATF dipstick from RMEuropean for $37, if you want save over the genuine MB part.
INSTRUCTIONS/NOTES
[download the attached PDFs for pictorials and notes]
1. Drive the car around for at least 15 minutes to warm up and mix the ATF (warm ATF expands, so you can get more out). Jack up your car and follow the compiled PDF pictorials. Take off the rearmost underbody engine cover (held by (6) 10mm bolts) to expose the ATF drain pain. Drain your car’s ATF by drain plug. Drop the ATF pan via the 6 Torx bolts (suggest your remove the rearmost bolts first to get most fluid out). Clean out the old transmission pan using a clean, lint-free cloth (including cleaning off magnet--mine was round, not square--which just sticks to the bottom of the pan). Remove and replace the transmission filter with a new one (take note the plastic notch to realign it properly (slight angle)). Remove and replace the ATF pan gasket with a new one. Put ATF pan back on to the car (use the 6 bolts and sprag spacers)—torque to 8Nm. Replace ATF drain plug, use new washer and torque to 20Nm.
2. Replace the rearmost underbody engine cover and bolts.
3. Remove jack stands and lower car so it’s level.
4. Break off the ATF cap lock tab and remove the ATF filler cap and place aside. It is located rearmost of the engine, near the middle of the car but it will angle towards the passenger side. You won’t need to remove the air filter housings.
5. IMPORANT STEP. When you refill with ATF through the dipstick, our E55 cars only take about 3.5 quarts of ATF for the drain and refill. Do also take note that Fuchs (and MB) sells their ATF as measured in LITERS. If you use the whole 4 liter jug (4.23 quarts), you will OVERFILL your ATF. Start the initial fill with 3.5 quarts and slowly work your way up (if needed at all).
6. Determining ATF level. First, make sure the car is level. Next, you have to realize that there’s 2 sets of markings on the ATF dipstick tool: the lower set of markings is for 25 degrees Celcius (room temperature; i.e. car was just started) and the upper 2 sets of markings are for 80 degrees Celcius (transmission operating temperature; when the car has been driven for about 20 minutes—not idling for 20 minutes). Before you can accurately determine the exact ATF level from the initial ATF refill, you need to circulate the ATF fluid a little bit: start the car and while holding down the brakes with your foot, slowly shift from 1, 2, 3, 4, D, and R--hold for about 15 seconds at each spot. Put car back in Park and leave the engine on. This will help reduce an artificially high reading at the low temperature level readings. While the engine is ON, insert ATF dipstick all the way in until it stops, then pull out the dipstick and check to see where the level is at, based on transmission temperature. Nonetheless, the BEST way to accurately measure the ATF level is to drive the car around for about 20 minutes to get the transmission ATF up to 80 degrees C and then pull the car back into the garage (must be level surface) and while leaving the car’s engine running and the transmission gear selector in the Park (P) position, measure the ATF level via dipstick using the 80 degrees C markings. You’ll find that around 3.5 quarts is the ATF refill amount you’ll need to reach the high mark of the 80 degrees C marking set. And don’t forget to put the dipstick cap temporarily back on before driving off to warm up the car.
Note: when you put the ATF dipstick tool into the transmission, it will NOT go all the way in—about 1 foot will dangle outward. Just push the dipstick in until it stops, then pull it out. Hence why it’s a dipstick TOOL, and not a permanent dipstick.
7. Once your ATF levels are set where you want it (again, it’s best to measure when the car is fully warmed up by driving around for 20 minutes), replace the dipstick cap and place in a new lock tab.
8. Reset the Transmission ECU adaptations to get optimal shifting (now that you have fresh ATF fluid). From a car that is totally off, insert key into ignition. Push gas pedal to floor and hold it. While holding the gas pedal floored down, turn the key to position 2 (all warning lights come on), but do NOT start the car, and count for 5 seconds. Turn key back to position 1 (accessory only), you can now let go of the gas pedal. Wait a full 2 minutes of doing nothing inside the car—do not exit the car or mess with radios/windows/etc.—wait the full 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, you can now start the car and drive off with smooth and crisp shifting as your car resets its shift adaptations on new ATF fluid. You’re done and saved yourself $400 vs going to the dealer.
9. Take your used ATF to any local auto parts store and they will collect it (and your used motor oil) to recycle for free.
10. Side note: If you overfilled your ATF when measured at 80 degrees C, you may want to consider using a cheap multi-transfer pump from Harbor Freight Tools (66418; about $8 online or in-store) to suction out the excess fluid. Do NOT suction out hot ATF as it will potentially melt your suction tube, wait at least 6 hours to allow the car to cool off with the hood open. However, if you start with placing in 3.5 quarts ATF and slowly add more (if needed) at 80 degrees C transmission temperature, you won’t need to worry about having to remove excess ATF. Initially, I placed in the whole 4 liter jug and it was about 0.5 Liters too much, hence why I needed the pump.
Something to think about, while the car is up on jack stands, you may want to change the engine oil on the car as well, if it’s due.
Also, of note, when I attempted to remove my ATF drain plug, it stripped (being a small 5mm HEX internal) and I couldn’t remove it and drain the ATF how I would have liked to drain it. I ended up draining my ATF by dropping the drain pan by slowly loosening the drain pan bolts (rearmost first so the pan would angle down), and my large, wide 16 quart catch pan got most of the ATF that came out of the pan. Removing the drain plug isn’t absolutely necessary, but it would have made less of a mess if I was able to drain the ATF that way.
Other Mercedes cars with the 5-speed 722.6xx transmissions can use the above tutorial as a general guide (some parts may be different), however, I would start with adding 3 liters of ATF and slowly work their way up to figure out how much fluid is required. The 722.6xx transmissions all have different total system capacity, so make sure you measure at the 80 degree Celcius levels to get the proper ATF levels.
In any event, hope this tutorial helps out others that may be hesitant to do this relatively easy procedure.
What: Drain and Refill Transmission service DIY for W211 E55 AMG [5 speed 722.649] (skip to the attached PDFs if you want a pictorial guide)
Summary: I found a great tutorial on an ATF drain and refill from G-AMG on the other MB website. While it was written for a G55 AMG with a similar 722.6xx transmission, the tutorial applies to our car (2003-2006 W211 E55 AMG), but with a caveat:
1. Our W211 E55 AMG only uses approximately 3.5 quarts ATF for a drain and refill of the transmission service. I modified the document to reflect the refill capacity for our cars.
This is tutorial credit belongs to G-AMG. I just wanted to adapt and condense information for our W211 E55 AMG. The pictures by G-AMG are priceless. The dealer will charge around $500 for this exact same service, which is a bit absurd. If you can change your own engine oil, you can easily do this job in an hour and save yourself $400. The key thing is to make sure you have all of the proper tools and supplies before hand.
The W211 E55 AMG has a total capacity of 8.7 liters (9.2 quarts) in the transmission and torque converter. The E55 AMG does NOT have a torque converter plug, thus this service will only remove 40% of old fluid from the transmission. Some old fluid will remain (60%)—this will be fine as you don’t get too much new fluid to “shock” the transmission, especially on older cars where it can potentially dislodge too much sludge and ruin your transmission. If you wanted more fresh fluid, you can do sequential drain and refills which is more gentle on the transmission than a full flush (1st drain/refill/drive for a week (60% old fluid), 2nd drain/refill/drive for a week (36% old fluid), and then 3rd drain/refill/drive (21% old fluid, at 3 cycles, which should be plenty good enough)--or just do the drain and refills more frequently (instead of 40k miles), like when your car is getting the oil changed. I plan to do an ATF drain and refill at least every 20k, and drop the pan ATF service (including new ATF filter and cleaning the pan magnet) at every 40k to ensure I have moderately fresh ATF fluid.
Based on the service history, the ATF in my car was last changed 45k miles ago and it looked an opaque, coffee brown color. New ATF should be a translucent raspberry red color. And the pan magnet had a bit of very fine, particulate metal bits collected on to it (which per forum comments is pretty normal). It was definitely time for the ATF service.
Perform this drain and refill at your own risk—if you aren’t comfortable doing this, then take to your favorite mechanic/dealer to have the ATF service done.
Why change the ATF fluid? Transmission fluid deteriorates over time, especially in our high torque car. New ATF ensures longevity of the transmission. Noticeably smoother shifting.
Difficulty level: 2/5 [easy, just need proper tools]
Time required: 1 hr
How often: Every 40k miles per MB factory recommendations; however, as a drain and refill only gets about 40% of the old fluid out, and based on my ATF fluid color, you may want to do a drain and refill every 20k miles to ensure you are always running relatively fresh ATF in the car; and drop your pan every 40k miles to change out the ATF filter—that’s what I plan on doing
Tools Needed:
1. Torque wrench (for 8Nm and 20Nm)
2. 5mm hex socket (for ATF drain plug on ATF drain pan) [not necessarily needed if you just drop the pan]
3. T30 Torx socket
4. Long funnel that has an end that will fit in the ATF fill tube
5. Large flat pan to collect ATF fluid (enough to hold at least 6 quarts to prevent spillage)
6. Jack stands (consider rubber jack pads as well to reduce damage to unibody rubber pads)
7. 10mm socket (to remove rear-most underbody splash shield)
8. Neoprene gloves (to keep your hands clean)
Required Materials Needed (W211 E55 AMG specific):
1. 4 liter jug Fuchs Titan 4134 ATF. PN: 001989680313 (MB spec 216.14, backwards compatible with original 216.12 spec) [$45 from rmeuropean.com; per Fuchs website, supposedly this Fuchs 4134 is rebranded to MB oil, so save money and buy this fluid vs buying costly “genuine” MB ATF fluid]
2. MB ATF dipstick tool (or equivalent): Mercedes PN: 140589152100 ($42 shipped on eBay, if you look around; otherwise get from RMEuropean.com)
3. ATF drain plug washer: PN: 1402710060 ($2.11) [Rmeuropean.com]
4. ATF genuine drain pan rubber gasket: PN: 1402710080 ($8.42) [Rmeuropean.com]
5. ATF genuine filler cap lock tab: PN: 1409910055 ($1.66) [Rmeuropean.com]
6. ATF genuine transmission filter: PN: 1402770095 ($12.30) [Rmeuropean.com]
Buy over $65 in parts from RMEuropean.com and get free ground shipping. You can get a Febi ATF dipstick from RMEuropean for $37, if you want save over the genuine MB part.
INSTRUCTIONS/NOTES
[download the attached PDFs for pictorials and notes]
1. Drive the car around for at least 15 minutes to warm up and mix the ATF (warm ATF expands, so you can get more out). Jack up your car and follow the compiled PDF pictorials. Take off the rearmost underbody engine cover (held by (6) 10mm bolts) to expose the ATF drain pain. Drain your car’s ATF by drain plug. Drop the ATF pan via the 6 Torx bolts (suggest your remove the rearmost bolts first to get most fluid out). Clean out the old transmission pan using a clean, lint-free cloth (including cleaning off magnet--mine was round, not square--which just sticks to the bottom of the pan). Remove and replace the transmission filter with a new one (take note the plastic notch to realign it properly (slight angle)). Remove and replace the ATF pan gasket with a new one. Put ATF pan back on to the car (use the 6 bolts and sprag spacers)—torque to 8Nm. Replace ATF drain plug, use new washer and torque to 20Nm.
2. Replace the rearmost underbody engine cover and bolts.
3. Remove jack stands and lower car so it’s level.
4. Break off the ATF cap lock tab and remove the ATF filler cap and place aside. It is located rearmost of the engine, near the middle of the car but it will angle towards the passenger side. You won’t need to remove the air filter housings.
5. IMPORANT STEP. When you refill with ATF through the dipstick, our E55 cars only take about 3.5 quarts of ATF for the drain and refill. Do also take note that Fuchs (and MB) sells their ATF as measured in LITERS. If you use the whole 4 liter jug (4.23 quarts), you will OVERFILL your ATF. Start the initial fill with 3.5 quarts and slowly work your way up (if needed at all).
6. Determining ATF level. First, make sure the car is level. Next, you have to realize that there’s 2 sets of markings on the ATF dipstick tool: the lower set of markings is for 25 degrees Celcius (room temperature; i.e. car was just started) and the upper 2 sets of markings are for 80 degrees Celcius (transmission operating temperature; when the car has been driven for about 20 minutes—not idling for 20 minutes). Before you can accurately determine the exact ATF level from the initial ATF refill, you need to circulate the ATF fluid a little bit: start the car and while holding down the brakes with your foot, slowly shift from 1, 2, 3, 4, D, and R--hold for about 15 seconds at each spot. Put car back in Park and leave the engine on. This will help reduce an artificially high reading at the low temperature level readings. While the engine is ON, insert ATF dipstick all the way in until it stops, then pull out the dipstick and check to see where the level is at, based on transmission temperature. Nonetheless, the BEST way to accurately measure the ATF level is to drive the car around for about 20 minutes to get the transmission ATF up to 80 degrees C and then pull the car back into the garage (must be level surface) and while leaving the car’s engine running and the transmission gear selector in the Park (P) position, measure the ATF level via dipstick using the 80 degrees C markings. You’ll find that around 3.5 quarts is the ATF refill amount you’ll need to reach the high mark of the 80 degrees C marking set. And don’t forget to put the dipstick cap temporarily back on before driving off to warm up the car.
Note: when you put the ATF dipstick tool into the transmission, it will NOT go all the way in—about 1 foot will dangle outward. Just push the dipstick in until it stops, then pull it out. Hence why it’s a dipstick TOOL, and not a permanent dipstick.
7. Once your ATF levels are set where you want it (again, it’s best to measure when the car is fully warmed up by driving around for 20 minutes), replace the dipstick cap and place in a new lock tab.
8. Reset the Transmission ECU adaptations to get optimal shifting (now that you have fresh ATF fluid). From a car that is totally off, insert key into ignition. Push gas pedal to floor and hold it. While holding the gas pedal floored down, turn the key to position 2 (all warning lights come on), but do NOT start the car, and count for 5 seconds. Turn key back to position 1 (accessory only), you can now let go of the gas pedal. Wait a full 2 minutes of doing nothing inside the car—do not exit the car or mess with radios/windows/etc.—wait the full 2 minutes. After 2 minutes, you can now start the car and drive off with smooth and crisp shifting as your car resets its shift adaptations on new ATF fluid. You’re done and saved yourself $400 vs going to the dealer.
9. Take your used ATF to any local auto parts store and they will collect it (and your used motor oil) to recycle for free.
10. Side note: If you overfilled your ATF when measured at 80 degrees C, you may want to consider using a cheap multi-transfer pump from Harbor Freight Tools (66418; about $8 online or in-store) to suction out the excess fluid. Do NOT suction out hot ATF as it will potentially melt your suction tube, wait at least 6 hours to allow the car to cool off with the hood open. However, if you start with placing in 3.5 quarts ATF and slowly add more (if needed) at 80 degrees C transmission temperature, you won’t need to worry about having to remove excess ATF. Initially, I placed in the whole 4 liter jug and it was about 0.5 Liters too much, hence why I needed the pump.
Something to think about, while the car is up on jack stands, you may want to change the engine oil on the car as well, if it’s due.
Also, of note, when I attempted to remove my ATF drain plug, it stripped (being a small 5mm HEX internal) and I couldn’t remove it and drain the ATF how I would have liked to drain it. I ended up draining my ATF by dropping the drain pan by slowly loosening the drain pan bolts (rearmost first so the pan would angle down), and my large, wide 16 quart catch pan got most of the ATF that came out of the pan. Removing the drain plug isn’t absolutely necessary, but it would have made less of a mess if I was able to drain the ATF that way.
Other Mercedes cars with the 5-speed 722.6xx transmissions can use the above tutorial as a general guide (some parts may be different), however, I would start with adding 3 liters of ATF and slowly work their way up to figure out how much fluid is required. The 722.6xx transmissions all have different total system capacity, so make sure you measure at the 80 degree Celcius levels to get the proper ATF levels.
In any event, hope this tutorial helps out others that may be hesitant to do this relatively easy procedure.
Last edited by amg_w211; 04-28-2014 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Minor text change on PDF
The following 4 users liked this post by amg_w211:
04-20-2014, 04:06 PM
#2
Senior Member
Anyone considering this should also investigate the 'flush the transmission fluid' posts as an option. This procedure replaces ALL the fluid in the transmissions hydraulic system (hoses, radiator cooling tank, etc.) Uses about 8-10 qts of fluid, but you have a fully cleaned system.
Some even include the installation of a Magnafine (www.magnafine.com) magnetic filter in the line as well, but IF your transmission pan has a magnet in the bottom, that' probably overkill.
Some even include the installation of a Magnafine (www.magnafine.com) magnetic filter in the line as well, but IF your transmission pan has a magnet in the bottom, that' probably overkill.
03-12-2015, 07:55 AM
#5
Junior Member
Hi there, from Flydutch.
Brilliant write up.
Perhaps you can guide me where do I find the same sort of nice write up guide for my S55 AMG 277.6 transmission inclusive of the Torque Converter drain.
Brilliant write up.
Perhaps you can guide me where do I find the same sort of nice write up guide for my S55 AMG 277.6 transmission inclusive of the Torque Converter drain.
03-12-2015, 08:12 AM
#6
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 698
Received 16 Likes
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13 Posts
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Not possible. Have to do a flush for it which is highly recommended on the 722.6 boxxes. Or simply do like 10 oilchanges in a period of 1-2 month to have the same effect.
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03-12-2015, 10:42 AM
#8
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 698
Received 16 Likes
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13 Posts
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
TRANSMISSION 722.6 /9 /9 (except , 722.93) mit Ablassschraube am Drehmomentwandler
Aus Kostengründen entfällt die Ölablassschraube am Dremomentwandler ab 22.09.99 Nr.: 1772285".
03-12-2015, 11:53 AM
#9
Junior Member
Hi There,
A. German is not a problem as I am A Hollander, born and breath in Amsterdam, and we have learned your language (and many others) as to be able to keep an eye on you guys.
B. The MB dealer in South Africa could supply me the seal (recommended replacement part) for my 2003 W220 S55 AMG Kompressor 277.600 Transmission, in spite the fact that it was "Phased Out" in 1999. (FOR OUR CAR)
C. Which now leaves us at a simple crossroad where I will have to have a look over the weekend at the bell housing and torque converter and find out.
A. German is not a problem as I am A Hollander, born and breath in Amsterdam, and we have learned your language (and many others) as to be able to keep an eye on you guys.
B. The MB dealer in South Africa could supply me the seal (recommended replacement part) for my 2003 W220 S55 AMG Kompressor 277.600 Transmission, in spite the fact that it was "Phased Out" in 1999. (FOR OUR CAR)
C. Which now leaves us at a simple crossroad where I will have to have a look over the weekend at the bell housing and torque converter and find out.
03-14-2015, 01:17 AM
#10
Super Member
fantastic write-up. Thanks.
I know you stated the fuchs titan fluid, but have you read anything about the:
febi/bilstein - 29449
ATF 134 (Mineral Based) Specifications: Meets MB 236.12, 236.14, and Kia Type IV Specifications. OEM Approval: MB 236.12, 236.14
and the Pentosin - D6 ATF-1 LV
Meets MB 236.14, MB 236.12, MB 236.10
both are said to meet the MB standards. Just curious since I can get those REALLY cheap.
I know you stated the fuchs titan fluid, but have you read anything about the:
febi/bilstein - 29449
ATF 134 (Mineral Based) Specifications: Meets MB 236.12, 236.14, and Kia Type IV Specifications. OEM Approval: MB 236.12, 236.14
and the Pentosin - D6 ATF-1 LV
Meets MB 236.14, MB 236.12, MB 236.10
both are said to meet the MB standards. Just curious since I can get those REALLY cheap.
03-14-2015, 08:06 AM
#11
Super Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Germany
Posts: 698
Received 16 Likes
on
13 Posts
C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
fantastic write-up. Thanks.
I know you stated the fuchs titan fluid, but have you read anything about the:
febi/bilstein - 29449
ATF 134 (Mineral Based) Specifications: Meets MB 236.12, 236.14, and Kia Type IV Specifications. OEM Approval: MB 236.12, 236.14
and the Pentosin - D6 ATF-1 LV
Meets MB 236.14, MB 236.12, MB 236.10
both are said to meet the MB standards. Just curious since I can get those REALLY cheap.
I know you stated the fuchs titan fluid, but have you read anything about the:
febi/bilstein - 29449
ATF 134 (Mineral Based) Specifications: Meets MB 236.12, 236.14, and Kia Type IV Specifications. OEM Approval: MB 236.12, 236.14
and the Pentosin - D6 ATF-1 LV
Meets MB 236.14, MB 236.12, MB 236.10
both are said to meet the MB standards. Just curious since I can get those REALLY cheap.
http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/236.14_en.html
These are the one that went through daimlers own testings to get the "named approval". Rest with their claims of "meets bla bla", are just a claim.
The Fuchs isnt expensive either. Here in germany i usually buy 20L containers (thats a bit more than 21 quarts) for around 90€. Thats 4,50€/liter - worth the money.
Remember that Fuchs was the inventor of these 236.14 oils. Daimler had issues with the shift comfort in NAG1 and NAG2 boxxes and went to Fuchs, which is their main german Oil supplier, with a new "product specification book" and a some few months long timeframe to develop these new "problemsolver oils". I Have a PDF about that in Fuchs own magazine http://www.fuchs-oil.com/fileadmin/f...I_1_2009_e.pdf.
Read page 24 about the process.
Last edited by Crissus; 03-14-2015 at 08:20 AM. Reason: Added Fuchs thingy
06-25-2017, 04:55 AM
#15
Great DIY tutorial. Im having a go at it in the coming weeks on my CLS55 with some clunky shifts.
I've been sourcing my parts from FCP Euro and they have a ready made kit for this job. My only concern is that they include a new fill pipe cover and dipstick tube o ring which are not mentioned here. Are the old ones re-useable? Or do they need replacing like the seal?
I've been sourcing my parts from FCP Euro and they have a ready made kit for this job. My only concern is that they include a new fill pipe cover and dipstick tube o ring which are not mentioned here. Are the old ones re-useable? Or do they need replacing like the seal?
06-25-2017, 03:35 PM
#16
if you taking about fill tube plug then yes its reusable with small black oring what is not reusable is small red lock the does on the plug so that no one tempers with your trans fluid you can either replace it or just leave the plug unlocked.
06-25-2017, 07:29 PM
#17
Excellent, thought that might be the case. Thanks for your help lukasxpl!
06-26-2017, 04:29 PM
#18
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Great DIY tutorial. Im having a go at it in the coming weeks on my CLS55 with some clunky shifts.
I've been sourcing my parts from FCP Euro and they have a ready made kit for this job. My only concern is that they include a new fill pipe cover and dipstick tube o ring which are not mentioned here. Are the old ones re-useable? Or do they need replacing like the seal?
I've been sourcing my parts from FCP Euro and they have a ready made kit for this job. My only concern is that they include a new fill pipe cover and dipstick tube o ring which are not mentioned here. Are the old ones re-useable? Or do they need replacing like the seal?
Definitely a valid concern, I've always popped the cover back on with the old o-ring however thats not a good practice. I've added these two components to the transmission service kit that I offer.
--Kyle
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-kit-722-6fck1
06-26-2017, 06:29 PM
#19
Definitely a valid concern, I've always popped the cover back on with the old o-ring however thats not a good practice. I've added these two components to the transmission service kit that I offer.
--Kyle
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-kit-722-6fck1
--Kyle
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...-kit-722-6fck1
Small world on this forum! Can I ask why you think this is the case Kyle? The old ones perish or something?
Praise to FCP btw. Been very useful. Would be perfect if i was in the US. Occasional expensive shipping to Australia is the only reason I don't buy everything there.
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FCPEuro (06-27-2017)
06-26-2017, 10:00 PM
#20
Small world on this forum! Can I ask why you think this is the case Kyle? The old ones perish or something?
Praise to FCP btw. Been very useful. Would be perfect if i was in the US. Occasional expensive shipping to Australia is the only reason I don't buy everything there.
Praise to FCP btw. Been very useful. Would be perfect if i was in the US. Occasional expensive shipping to Australia is the only reason I don't buy everything there.
I've been fixing benzs for over 6 years now and had no issues with reusing caps or orings as long as oring is not cracked you will be fine always put a little oil on the oring for lubrication as I explained before the cap can be reused but red little lock needs to be replaced every time.
06-26-2017, 11:03 PM
#22
I've been fixing benzs for over 6 years now and had no issues with reusing caps or orings as long as oring is not cracked you will be fine always put a little oil on the oring for lubrication as I explained before the cap can be reused but red little lock needs to be replaced every time.
06-27-2017, 12:30 PM
#23
Former Vendor of MBWorld
Small world on this forum! Can I ask why you think this is the case Kyle? The old ones perish or something?
Praise to FCP btw. Been very useful. Would be perfect if i was in the US. Occasional expensive shipping to Australia is the only reason I don't buy everything there.
Praise to FCP btw. Been very useful. Would be perfect if i was in the US. Occasional expensive shipping to Australia is the only reason I don't buy everything there.
03-26-2019, 01:43 PM
#24
Newbie
Excellent write up. I just performed this service, along with the electrical plate and refilled. My first drive out my trans went into limp mode, until I parked and put the shifter in park and then back to drive. Come to find out the fluid was low. No leaks and I used 3.5qts.
Now when measuring using the dipstick tool at operating temps the line still reads lower than the 80C mark. Anyone ever have to add more than 3.5qts in when pulling the pan, electrical plate and filter? I admit, I did not measure the fluid I drained.
Now when measuring using the dipstick tool at operating temps the line still reads lower than the 80C mark. Anyone ever have to add more than 3.5qts in when pulling the pan, electrical plate and filter? I admit, I did not measure the fluid I drained.
04-01-2019, 10:48 AM
#25
Senior Member
Anyone notice any issues better or worse , mixing the 216.14 with older 216.10 or 12 spec fluids . My car likely has the older stuff in it , but plan on doing 3-4 drain & fills with the 001989680313 # 216.14 fluid . Haven't came up with much info . Great write up btw.
