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I successfully repaired my coil pack, so I'm back on the rear main seal. I bought a new seal, sealant, seal plate and made a fitting tool. I removed the old seal plate and cleaned up the mating surface (very awkward when using jack stands!) I played around with the old seal plate, and practiced all the fitting tasks.
Then it occurred to me that with the seal plate removed, I now had the choice of fitting the seal from either the inside or the outside of the plate. Because of the geometry of the seal, I found pressing the old seal from the outside (as you would with the seal plate installed) was difficult. It was much easier fitting it from the inside.
Am I being stupid, or is that how your supposed to fit it?
Early in thread, one of the pro's said replace the plate bolts. However, they screw into aluminium, so they can't be very tight. I didn't replace mine. The flywheel bolts do go tight though - they are stretch tightened. I think that means they SHOULD be replaced. They weren't too expensive.
Just noticed a little weapage from the rear main seal area. Where the trans meets the block. I just changed this SOB 2 years ago. Its leaking onto my 02 sensors. Well, just the seal, used the same plate, never removed it. Now I'm told you're suppose to change out the plate as well and reseal. Lesson learned!
Now I will change out rear main, new plate, new screws, reseal with recommended sealant. Let it cure and put it back together. Apart from new fuel filters, thrust arm bushings, lower and upper bushings and scheduled mantainece, tires and brakes and random check codes. It's damm costly… But, the rewards are worthwhile. I suppose.
This is correct, except 2 of the seal plate bolts get re-used. The super long ones coming from the bottom of the bell housing. The fly-wheel bolts are indeed stretch bolts and the torque spec on them is outrageous however i've always just blasted them on with a 3/8 impact gun.
When doing your sealant path, make sure the bottom corners of your plate have an abundance of sealant. Alot of times those corners will leak if not sealed correctly. and make sure you don't block any oil passages on the new plate. i sometimes like to scuff up the plate surfaces that require sealant with some scotch-brite. Be easy though, you aren't trying to paint the thing. You trully don't need to let it cure but that is up to you. By time you button up your o2 sensors and put your encap panel back on, that sealant is way more then dry.
Oil leaking from rear seal... Trans mount soaked in oil?
Originally Posted by cmriv
Curing time? You are joking right? This must be some indie riddle. Have changed sooooo many rear mains on the 112/113 motors, never have i ever let it "cure". There is a sealant path that needs to be followed and a special tool to install seal. Job pays 10-12 hours depending on 4matic or not, so in your case 10 hours.
Pulling the transmission is a joke-It isn't even the long part of the job. Cleaning the area of the seal plate is what takes forever, especially the lower corners....
Seal is used to lubricate crankshaft ends, you have a front and rear main seal. Above poster is correct-it is in fact the sealant that goes bad first, usually.
The only reason it would leak after being replace is install/cleaning error. If it takes 10 years for it to leak from the factory, it surely isn't product defect. If cleaned correctly and thoroughly, and correct sealant path used-there shouldn't be any leaks no time soon after repairs.
The white plastic circular disc in the photo btw is not your install tool-be careful for you DIY's, you can easily roll this seal and have to redo the whole job again-and you wont know until the thing is running at operating temperature.
Things I recommend changing to my customers if not changed previously.
1. motor/trans mount
2. transmission connector
3. shifter bushings with new clips
4. hardware/brackets that attach exhaust to trans body
5. replace your indie shop if he only replaces the seal-dumb ahsss-ahhssshole move
Yes rear mains leaking on this generation motor are extremely common. v6 or v8 na or fi...
No real common damage will happen, not to say something can't, but mostly you will just have to add oil ever so often...
Lastly-DO NOT RE-USE THE BOLTS FROM THE OLD PLATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Only two should be re-used and those are the super long ones coming from the bottom of the bell housing.....
this is a 3 hour job if he or she knows what they are doing. Usually their level of experience will determine the cost. I personally would do these all day for 500$ plus parts, however I don't own my own business and don't have employees to pay so it'll be more usually whichever shop you go to unless you know someone who will do it for the low on the side....
Good luck!
Just had my transmission serviced and asked them to replace the trans mounts while they were at it. They claimed that it was pointless to replace the trans mount before I fixed the oil leak because the trans mount was saturated in engine oil... Does this sound feasible?
Either way Im planning on taking the car in to have the seal, plate, trans mounts, motor mounts and F&R Flex discs replaced... Any suggestions on anything else to address while im at it?
Thanks!
Just had my transmission serviced and asked them to replace the trans mounts while they were at it. They claimed that it was pointless to replace the trans mount before I fixed the oil leak because the trans mount was saturated in engine oil... Does this sound feasible?
Either way Im planning on taking the car in to have the seal, plate, trans mounts, motor mounts and F&R Flex discs replaced... Any suggestions on anything else to address while im at it?
Thanks!
Shifter bushings since the transmission will already be out. If you have a .6 trans replace trans electrical connector.
the rear main seal is separete from the rear plate. They are sold differently, not together.
Per mb orginal WIS instuctions the plate should be changed with the new seal. Also when istalling the new seal the WIS states not to use any kind of lubricant on the sealing surface of the crank or the seal itself.
So the back plate is secured with bolts and sealant, and the rear main seal is just pushed on to it
Edit: there is a cure time.. cant remember but it was pretty long!
Hello,
Ive removed tranny and im on the process of changing the seal.
Did You put the main rear seal into the plate before installing it or after?
What I can see from WIS, 1st thing is to install plate, then seal hm?
the rear main seal is separete from the rear plate. They are sold differently, not together.
Per mb orginal WIS instuctions the plate should be changed with the new seal. Also when istalling the new seal the WIS states not to use any kind of lubricant on the sealing surface of the crank or the seal itself.
So the back plate is secured with bolts and sealant, and the rear main seal is just pushed on to it
Edit: there is a cure time.. cant remember but it was pretty long!
Hello,
Have You removed also the fitting sleeves with rear cover?
Ive removed plate but the sleeves are on the engine side..
for reassembly do I have to remove it and press again ? Take care
01-25-2016, 08:28 AM
