W211 AMG Discuss the W211 AMG's such as the E55 and the E63

my track heat issues pump or tank or air in system?

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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 08:34 AM
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99 ford lightning
my track heat issues pump or tank or air in system?

so im sure you all read my heat issues at the track even in cold air with ice. Its still mind boggling since now matter if I completely drain tank or take a little out to add ice its heats up. act's start off low but by 3rd gear forget in the 150's. The crazy part is I can see the fluid circulating, seems fine, and the recovery is super fast. does any one think it could be the ****ty lid to that fabtech tank? Unless one of my lines is kinked under the car, but on the street it doesn't seem to heat up like that with out ice. I need to fix this hook this car and run a good time for the mph I have before I sell it.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:14 AM
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All you did was change tanks, right?

-My first guess is air in the lines - I'd bleed it again.
-2nd guess is an issue with the pump - you might need more flow

you could always swap the Cobra tank back in to rule our issues with the fabtech tank
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:23 AM
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99 ford lightning
yes did the tank and the plm heat exchanger.
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 09:29 AM
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What temp is the water in the tank in correlation to your iats? Ambient is not an issue since its cold where you are
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 10:43 AM
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Tank

All I know is that water is cold when I check it after the run. It heats up a tad during burn out then cools back down. And like I said 3rd gear it just sky rockets. 150 plus and by the return road its down to 60
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 10:55 AM
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Check your pump under load on dyno and see if it is flowing in the tank
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 11:51 AM
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Possible you have pump wired to something that drops voltage/ground at WOT ?
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Old Jan 19, 2016 | 12:16 PM
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Have you checked your relay? This happened to me a couple months ago where my brand new IC pump would not work. The issue ended up resolving on its own.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 09:31 AM
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I still think its your pump. Maybe not the pump itself, relay or something like that. But it seems the pump simply does not move enough fluid under WOT

Last edited by kponti; Jan 20, 2016 at 10:02 AM.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 11:48 AM
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Maybe lines not routed correctly?
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 12:32 PM
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A little trick I did so that I know that the pump has turned on. I wired in a very small LED bulb and installed it in the dash. Any time the pump is running....the LED will be on. So even on a hard pull you can glance down at it and at least know that voltage is getting there and the pump is on. No LED ...no pump activation. Helps in diag.

Last edited by SICAMG; Jan 20, 2016 at 12:35 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cnterline
Possible you have pump wired to something that drops voltage/ground at WOT ?
Could be the voltage regulator getting old. I checked mine and it was in the low to mid 13 Volts. Since I'm nearing 80k miles, I went ahead and replaced it. Voltage jumped to a solid 14.1V at idle and driving around. I never did check the voltage at WOT, but there's a good chance that it was dropping into the less-than-ideal range, especially when running a heavy duty Meziere pump, an extra Rule 2000 pump, and a bunch of other little electronic devices.

The copper prongs on the old regulator were a good deal shorter than the new one. It was $45 and 30 minutes well spent.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 03:33 PM
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99 ford lightning
you know now that you say that I think I saw on my aeroforce gauge 13.2 at idle. and the red light comes on for aux battery. I do have a new battery in the trunk. I run the bosh 10 pump. I should log the voltage at wot.
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 04:22 PM
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Agreed, sounds like a voltage issue and the pump is just not flowing under WOT. 13.2 at idle is too low, your alternator or voltage regulator is going out. Should not be that low.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 06:56 PM
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Did you ever get this sorted out? I just installed mine and have the exact same issue. my instinct is telling me it does have something to do with the lid. It's a different lid than you see in all the pictures and doesn't allow you to fill the tank completely. I fill it as much as I can and it splatters out when driving. I'm wondering if since the tank is an inch or so low then when accelerating the fluid is being forced rearward creating an air pocket large enough in the front of the tank allowing air to be drawn in the lower line and gets a large air pocket in the system. I have no other theories since I've checked everything else.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 11:21 PM
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Why does anyone even bother with these ice tanks?
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 04:44 AM
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I did not sort it out I will prob just go back to the 03 cobra tank at least I know that worked well for the stock pulley.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:38 PM
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That sucks. Well, did you get the low voltage sorted out at least? If voltage is low pumps are not going to flow correctly either.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:41 PM
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I don't think it's voltage. Mine is fine and it's fine if you pull 3rd gear from bottom to top. It only happens if you take off WOT in first or second.
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 12:53 PM
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A leaking intercooler can cause high IAT's. At low boost you ingest some water and at high boost you pump air into the circuit. Pull one of your surge tanks and look for evidence of water. It happened to me.

Les
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 11:57 AM
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Where are the lines going into your tank? Maybe the G-force of a full run is pushing the water to the back of the tank. If the lines are on the front side, and the system is not 100% full of water, your lines might be getting starved of water, but it would only happen during sustained acceleration.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeJErnst
Where are the lines going into your tank? Maybe the G-force of a full run is pushing the water to the back of the tank. If the lines are on the front side, and the system is not 100% full of water, your lines might be getting starved of water, but it would only happen during sustained acceleration.
This is exactly what I am suggesting is happening. The new lid being used leaves about 1.5 inch of air space on the top of the tank. I've logged multiple times that this issue only happens on maximum g force and will not happen if you slam the throttle at 60 mph plus. The lines connect at the front of the tank.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Rocman8
This is exactly what I am suggesting is happening. The new lid being used leaves about 1.5 inch of air space on the top of the tank. I've logged multiple times that this issue only happens on maximum g force and will not happen if you slam the throttle at 60 mph plus. The lines connect at the front of the tank.
Can you extend the pick-up line to the rear/bottom of the tank?

In circle track racing, we always ran the pick-up to the right-rear-bottom corner of the gas tank (and used foam to control slosh .... thought I doubt foam would be good in this instance).

Cheers,
Chris
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by latemodel21
Can you extend the pick-up line to the rear/bottom of the tank?

In circle track racing, we always ran the pick-up to the right-rear-bottom corner of the gas tank (and used foam to control slosh .... thought I doubt foam would be good in this instance).

Cheers,
Chris
That was my next step was to try and extend the pickup since it's just a whole at the front of the tank and no pipe connected inside.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 99lightning
I did not sort it out I will prob just go back to the 03 cobra tank at least I know that worked well for the stock pulley.
Do you have foam at the bottom of your tank?
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