IAT - Stock HE vs Upgraded HE (PLM)
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
IAT - Stock HE vs Upgraded HE (PLM)
Hey all,
I know that 15-20*F over ambient is where we are aiming to be with IAT's during normal driving. I have a new Bosch 010 pump and a stock car, so i am roughly around that 15-20*F mark when cruising at highway speeds, but usually 30-40*F and even 50*F, during more spirited driving (im not counting spikes when WOT of course - only looking at steady temps)
How would an aftermarket HE, like a PLM, affect these numbers? How much lower can I expect them to be? I am planning a 2,000 mile road-trip in the E55 this July so I want to make sure my cooling is at its best as ill be in 80-100*F weather and im sure ill be running into plenty of nice cars along the way.
Thanks!
I know that 15-20*F over ambient is where we are aiming to be with IAT's during normal driving. I have a new Bosch 010 pump and a stock car, so i am roughly around that 15-20*F mark when cruising at highway speeds, but usually 30-40*F and even 50*F, during more spirited driving (im not counting spikes when WOT of course - only looking at steady temps)
How would an aftermarket HE, like a PLM, affect these numbers? How much lower can I expect them to be? I am planning a 2,000 mile road-trip in the E55 this July so I want to make sure my cooling is at its best as ill be in 80-100*F weather and im sure ill be running into plenty of nice cars along the way.
Thanks!
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From: Rancho Cucamonga
2005 E55
I went from 25-30 above ambient while cruising running an FSP and 010+stock HE. After installing just the PLM HE my cruising temps went to 15-20 above ambient. With the 010+PLM+split cooling I see 10-20 above ambient.
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
That's good news! So average of 5-10*F lower with the PLM HE?
Is there any improvement in the recovery times? When i go WOT and the IAT spike up to the 100s, they go back down to 35*F over ambient pretty quickly but take at least 4-5 mins to go back down 15-20*F over ambient.
Is there any improvement in the recovery times? When i go WOT and the IAT spike up to the 100s, they go back down to 35*F over ambient pretty quickly but take at least 4-5 mins to go back down 15-20*F over ambient.
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From: Rancho Cucamonga
2005 E55
Recovery time is drastically improved over stock, on a 75 degree day my IATs will be around 90 while cruising after going WOT it will reach 140-145 then cool back down to 90 within about a minute.
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From: new ringgold pa
99 ford lightning
mine usually starts off 8 deg over ambient but I have a bigger intercooler tank then anywhere from 14-18deg fully warmed up after hits cruising. recovery is quick and consistent with that heat exchanger my wot blast are a different story they go sky high. Thinking that big tank has to go.
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
SoCal55K,
Thanks again for sharing, thats great news. I think that Ill be getting the PLM in a few days. Recovery is probably even more important than dropping the additional few *F. Since we are on the PLM topic, how was the install? Any cutting/welding? Also, if you have an 05/06, how did that oil cooler fit, any issues?
And 99lightning,
Sounds like the big tank is hurting ya, taking you a while to recirculate... the tank concern doesnt really apply to me since the PLM would be my last mod. Dont plan on anything after that but its good to know that bigger isn't always better.
Thanks again for sharing, thats great news. I think that Ill be getting the PLM in a few days. Recovery is probably even more important than dropping the additional few *F. Since we are on the PLM topic, how was the install? Any cutting/welding? Also, if you have an 05/06, how did that oil cooler fit, any issues?
And 99lightning,
Sounds like the big tank is hurting ya, taking you a while to recirculate... the tank concern doesnt really apply to me since the PLM would be my last mod. Dont plan on anything after that but its good to know that bigger isn't always better.
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Originally Posted by 99lightning
mine usually starts off 8 deg over ambient but I have a bigger intercooler tank then anywhere from 14-18deg fully warmed up after hits cruising. recovery is quick and consistent with that heat exchanger my wot blast are a different story they go sky high. Thinking that big tank has to go.
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On a stock car it will make the same peak torque and probably same peak hp. The power quickly starts dropping off though (especially torque), as the engine starts pulling timing as the temperature rises.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
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SL55 2003
I haven't seen any difference after installing PLM H/E. Actually, when cruising, the IAT used to be 10 Celsius degrees above ambient temp, now it struggles to get there after a WOT.
Car is stock with 010 pump
could it be that there is some air in the system ?!!
Car is stock with 010 pump
could it be that there is some air in the system ?!!
Last edited by mAMG; Mar 22, 2016 at 10:24 PM.
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
Sorry to hear... When did you install it? Could be air in the system for sure. Our cars are tough to burp without SDS/Star... Unless you have the ability to turn the pump on manually of course
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SL55 2003
A month or 2 ago. Well, ill ask the mechanic to bleed the system next oil change ...
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2004 E55 AMG
On a stock car it will make the same peak torque and probably same peak hp. The power quickly starts dropping off though (especially torque), as the engine starts pulling timing as the temperature rises.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
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From: San Diego
E55
On a stock car it will make the same peak torque and probably same peak hp. The power quickly starts dropping off though (especially torque), as the engine starts pulling timing as the temperature rises.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
On my old stock heat exchanger I saw over 120 degrees F by the time it reached 6K (and that was cool outside and starting with normal intake temps).
I think the best result is to add an additional heat exchanger. Could use the small exchanger from S55, or stack a second OEM E55 exchanger in front of the stock one.
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From: Republic of Texas
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
Wanted to update this thread since i am the one who started it. 😄
I installed the PLM yesterday and it was straight forward. If you are handy, this is a breeze. If you are in a hurry, can be done in under 2 hours. Took me 3 with taking my time. Didnt have SDS to bleed so i had to find an alternative way. Heres what i did, turn the engine on and let it get upto temp as you add coolant. Once at the 90*C mark, put it in DRIVE, then just stab the throttle lightly while holding the brake down firmly (engage e-brake for safety). The pump engages once the SC clutch locks-up. After that, quickly pull the top nipple and put on your clear hose on it routed to the overflow. Clamp off the return just below the nipple and let it idle for 10 mins. Bleeding done without SDS and without any electrical rewiring and laying under the car. My little cheat. 😉
No real review yet on the IAT's as i didnt drive much, but from driving around the neighborhood in 75*F, temps were staying in the 90s (95-99) so id say so far so good considering this was all stop-and-go for 20 mins. But! Ill be going on a 300 mile trip in a week so ill update again.
All the best!
I installed the PLM yesterday and it was straight forward. If you are handy, this is a breeze. If you are in a hurry, can be done in under 2 hours. Took me 3 with taking my time. Didnt have SDS to bleed so i had to find an alternative way. Heres what i did, turn the engine on and let it get upto temp as you add coolant. Once at the 90*C mark, put it in DRIVE, then just stab the throttle lightly while holding the brake down firmly (engage e-brake for safety). The pump engages once the SC clutch locks-up. After that, quickly pull the top nipple and put on your clear hose on it routed to the overflow. Clamp off the return just below the nipple and let it idle for 10 mins. Bleeding done without SDS and without any electrical rewiring and laying under the car. My little cheat. 😉
No real review yet on the IAT's as i didnt drive much, but from driving around the neighborhood in 75*F, temps were staying in the 90s (95-99) so id say so far so good considering this was all stop-and-go for 20 mins. But! Ill be going on a 300 mile trip in a week so ill update again.
All the best!
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From: Chicago
E63 SL55 996TT C5Z06
very helpful threadhere on the PLM heat exchanger which i also have for a C32 which is clear different (smaller) than the E55, but many similarities w/supercharger, the cooling....
if my IATs are constantly 30-40 farenheit above ambient after the PLM and new bosch 010, is the likely issue that I have air pockets in the system and it was not correctly bled?
I've attempted to bleed it by removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the car at idle with the heat on, but the pump isnt activated so the fluid isnt cycling through so not doing anything.
if my IATs are constantly 30-40 farenheit above ambient after the PLM and new bosch 010, is the likely issue that I have air pockets in the system and it was not correctly bled?
I've attempted to bleed it by removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the car at idle with the heat on, but the pump isnt activated so the fluid isnt cycling through so not doing anything.
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Joined: Oct 2014
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
very helpful threadhere on the PLM heat exchanger which i also have for a C32 which is clear different (smaller) than the E55, but many similarities w/supercharger, the cooling....
if my IATs are constantly 30-40 farenheit above ambient after the PLM and new bosch 010, is the likely issue that I have air pockets in the system and it was not correctly bled?
I've attempted to bleed it by removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the car at idle with the heat on, but the pump isnt activated so the fluid isnt cycling through so not doing anything.
if my IATs are constantly 30-40 farenheit above ambient after the PLM and new bosch 010, is the likely issue that I have air pockets in the system and it was not correctly bled?
I've attempted to bleed it by removing the coolant reservoir cap and running the car at idle with the heat on, but the pump isnt activated so the fluid isnt cycling through so not doing anything.
Certainly sounds like air in the system to me, im at about 13-17 above ambient while cruising. Here is my trick to properly bleeding the system on the E55. I'd imagine your C is a similar set-up so this should work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/622720-easy-trick-bleeding-coolant-without-sds-our-w211-e55.html#post6781112
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2018 E63s AMG (Current) 2011 CL63 AMG (Sold) 2005 CLS55 AMG (Sold) 2004 C32 AMG (Sold)
Wanted to update this thread since i am the one who started it. 😄
I installed the PLM yesterday and it was straight forward. If you are handy, this is a breeze. If you are in a hurry, can be done in under 2 hours. Took me 3 with taking my time. Didnt have SDS to bleed so i had to find an alternative way. Heres what i did, turn the engine on and let it get upto temp as you add coolant. Once at the 90*C mark, put it in DRIVE, then just stab the throttle lightly while holding the brake down firmly (engage e-brake for safety). The pump engages once the SC clutch locks-up. After that, quickly pull the top nipple and put on your clear hose on it routed to the overflow. Clamp off the return just below the nipple and let it idle for 10 mins. Bleeding done without SDS and without any electrical rewiring and laying under the car. My little cheat. 😉
No real review yet on the IAT's as i didnt drive much, but from driving around the neighborhood in 75*F, temps were staying in the 90s (95-99) so id say so far so good considering this was all stop-and-go for 20 mins. But! Ill be going on a 300 mile trip in a week so ill update again.
All the best!
I installed the PLM yesterday and it was straight forward. If you are handy, this is a breeze. If you are in a hurry, can be done in under 2 hours. Took me 3 with taking my time. Didnt have SDS to bleed so i had to find an alternative way. Heres what i did, turn the engine on and let it get upto temp as you add coolant. Once at the 90*C mark, put it in DRIVE, then just stab the throttle lightly while holding the brake down firmly (engage e-brake for safety). The pump engages once the SC clutch locks-up. After that, quickly pull the top nipple and put on your clear hose on it routed to the overflow. Clamp off the return just below the nipple and let it idle for 10 mins. Bleeding done without SDS and without any electrical rewiring and laying under the car. My little cheat. 😉
No real review yet on the IAT's as i didnt drive much, but from driving around the neighborhood in 75*F, temps were staying in the 90s (95-99) so id say so far so good considering this was all stop-and-go for 20 mins. But! Ill be going on a 300 mile trip in a week so ill update again.
All the best!
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From: Chicago
E63 SL55 996TT C5Z06
Hey jvakos,
Certainly sounds like air in the system to me, im at about 13-17 above ambient while cruising. Here is my trick to properly bleeding the system on the E55. I'd imagine your C is a similar set-up so this should work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6781112
Certainly sounds like air in the system to me, im at about 13-17 above ambient while cruising. Here is my trick to properly bleeding the system on the E55. I'd imagine your C is a similar set-up so this should work.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6781112
V-AMG,
super helpful man thank you for the jumper idea! ive never wired a jumper to the car fuse box, is the wire in the picture here part of a kit or something??? not sure what i need to get to do this but will google search it...
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post6472973
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2016 E63s Wagon - CCB & CF package
C32 owner,
I just realized that i wrote 300 mile trip, haha, it was supposed to say 3,000. It ended up being 3800 miles all said and done. It was amazing man. The E55 is a champ. Roomy, comfy, quiet and best part of all hauls ***. I was with a 911 C4S and a '13 Mustang 5.0. I was the fastest in the bunch without a doubt, yet the roomiest and comfiest 4-door sedan.
Back to the point, IAT's were always about 12-15* over ambient cruising between 60-80mph for long stretches. Ourside temps varied from 50-85 and the above held true no matter the outsode temp, so it was great.
Jvakos,
As far as the jumper, its just a piece of any wire you stick between those terminals. If you are not comfy with that, read my very first post in that thread, you won't need anything but your 2 feet. Just firm brake then stab the gas quickly and the pump will engage the moment the SC clutch does. Takes a second and no wires, no BS. Hope this helps. Let us know.
I just realized that i wrote 300 mile trip, haha, it was supposed to say 3,000. It ended up being 3800 miles all said and done. It was amazing man. The E55 is a champ. Roomy, comfy, quiet and best part of all hauls ***. I was with a 911 C4S and a '13 Mustang 5.0. I was the fastest in the bunch without a doubt, yet the roomiest and comfiest 4-door sedan.
Back to the point, IAT's were always about 12-15* over ambient cruising between 60-80mph for long stretches. Ourside temps varied from 50-85 and the above held true no matter the outsode temp, so it was great.
Jvakos,
As far as the jumper, its just a piece of any wire you stick between those terminals. If you are not comfy with that, read my very first post in that thread, you won't need anything but your 2 feet. Just firm brake then stab the gas quickly and the pump will engage the moment the SC clutch does. Takes a second and no wires, no BS. Hope this helps. Let us know.
