Engine mounts polyurethane
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Engine mounts polyurethane
Hi guys.
My engine mounts are done, one was even broken in half.
I was thinking of maybe getting some polyurethane mounts this time, is it a bad idea? If not, were could I find them? I searched on ebay but found only original ones.
BTW. the car is an E63 Wagon
Thanks
My engine mounts are done, one was even broken in half.
I was thinking of maybe getting some polyurethane mounts this time, is it a bad idea? If not, were could I find them? I searched on ebay but found only original ones.
BTW. the car is an E63 Wagon
Thanks
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I did poly bushings on my Land Cruiser's steering rack after going through several of the bushings. It ruined the experience driving the car, like I was holding one of those back massage things while on a gravel road.
Engine mounts would ruin the point of the E Class AMG. Just go OEM rubber
Engine mounts would ruin the point of the E Class AMG. Just go OEM rubber
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phr34k (04-12-2016)
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
Back when I was racing circle track, a chain worked well (before we started using solid motor mounts)... but for the Mercedes, you want to keep the ride as nice as practical, so I did it with nylon coated wire rope. It does not effect the function of the mount or make any noise; it just limits the total amount of movement to stop the torque from tearing the driver side mount apart.
2 times around, double clamp it, and you are done.
Cheers,
Chris
2 times around, double clamp it, and you are done.
Cheers,
Chris
Last edited by latemodel21; 04-12-2016 at 04:10 PM.
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#7
Super Member
Thank you Chris!
What's the biggest difference you noticed on your car as a result of clamping it down? Any perceivable difference in engine response or your goal was just to reduce the stress of lift on the driver's side mount to prolong its service life?
Back when I was racing circle track, a chain worked well (before we started using solid motor mounts)... but for the Mercedes, you want to keep the ride as nice as practical, so I did it with nylon coated wire rope. It does not effect the function of the mount or make any noise; it just limits the total amount of movement to stop the torque from tearing the driver side mount apart.
2 times around, double clamp it, and you are done.
Cheers,
Chris
2 times around, double clamp it, and you are done.
Cheers,
Chris
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#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
there is no clamping down ... Just limits total travel.
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nanayaw6 (04-13-2016)
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
I had my fab guy weld a ratchet to the body near the driver side and used a nylon strap, it works very well. I posted apic a while back but hard to really see.
Motor hardly moves and haven't changed the mounts since then
Motor hardly moves and haven't changed the mounts since then
#11
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C215 CL55 AMG, W124 500E, W210 E430, W124 300E
Problem is also that people using aftermarket mounts. Hydraulic mounts for Mercedes were always a fail via aftermarket. It were like that since the early 90s.
Go for dealer mounts, yeahhh they are pricey i know...
Go for dealer mounts, yeahhh they are pricey i know...
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
This solution is simple, inexpensive, effective, and does not change the vibration dampening characteristics of the stock mounts.
I bought 10 feet of nylon coated "ultra-flexible" stainless steel rope from McMaster Carr for $10.50 (part number 8923t71 $1.05 foot). It is available in clear, red, orange, or black. Doubled, it is conservatively rated at 700 pounds .... if that does not seem like enough (it works for me), you can get part number 8923t734 (1/4" O.D. , $1.64 a foot, same color options) and double the load rating.
wrap it around twice, pull it tight, tighten the clamps (use 2), trim the excess, wrap tape around the cut ends ... and you are done
with clamps, less than $20
Cheers,
Chris
I bought 10 feet of nylon coated "ultra-flexible" stainless steel rope from McMaster Carr for $10.50 (part number 8923t71 $1.05 foot). It is available in clear, red, orange, or black. Doubled, it is conservatively rated at 700 pounds .... if that does not seem like enough (it works for me), you can get part number 8923t734 (1/4" O.D. , $1.64 a foot, same color options) and double the load rating.
wrap it around twice, pull it tight, tighten the clamps (use 2), trim the excess, wrap tape around the cut ends ... and you are done
with clamps, less than $20
Cheers,
Chris
#13
Super Member
Pics
So you're both basically wrapping the strap around the engine mount bracket to the sub frame then. At first I was assuming you were attaching one end of a strap somewhere on the top side of the motor on the driver's side and the other end to the sub frame. Sorta like this:
Thanks gents.
Last edited by nanayaw6; 04-13-2016 at 01:01 PM.
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nanayaw6 (04-13-2016)
#15
Junior Member
Nylon Coated Steel Cable
I put new mounts in. I used lemforeder 2 engine mounts and one Trans mount. I am actually planning to get another trans mount and fill it with poly just to see what happens. Major pain doing the install for the mounts after already having headers in btw. I was able to get the mounts out through the front miraculously and not touching the exhaust system at all! For the strap down I followed the method posted to use some steel braided nylon coated cable. It worked great. I know this isn't an E55 but I thought it may help and also may help some SL owners as well. This is a 2007 SL55. This was the best location I could find to route the cable to tie it down. I was a little concerned about it possibly hitting the boot to the tie rod but after I got it installed I brought it down off the lift and test drove it around giving it some hard acceleration and turns and power braking. I immediately noticed how much tighter the car felt and a little more responsive to throttle, I am guessing it helped take a little of the slack out (not allowing as much movement) when all that tq kicks in. No noises or anything on the test drive. Brought it back in and put it on the lift to inspect it and it had not moved at all still in the exact same place nice and tight and no interference with anything whatsoever. Any contact that may be happening with the boot and the nylon coating is not a problem at all.
I used 1/4 inch cable I bought 10 feet however I only needed about 7.5 feet. I wrapped it around 2 times nice and tight. Not so easy to reach up in there to route it plus the 1/4 cable is more rigid (some skinny arms would have helped) I used an air tool cut off wheel to get a nice clean cut for excess leaving just enough to grip with vise grips to pull it tight. To get it nice and tight I put the clamps on but I left them loose and I got it hand tight first and then clamped one of the clamps. I used a pair of vise grips for the end coming out of the other clamp and created a fulcrum point for it against the sub frame and I pulled it as tight as I could get it. (It is super tight) doing it this way. While holding the cable tight with the vise grips I tightened down the other clamp. Then I went back and did the same thing on the other clamp and back to the other one once again and this got it as tight as possible. I used some zip ties just to hold the ends in line with the rest of the cable so it wasn't just sticking out. I will say that this really tightened up the ride and helped smooth it out. Very inexpensive way to solve tearing up mounts and its still removable. Final step as always.Have a cold one and relax.
#16
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2003 porsche 996 turbo
drill a hole in the top of the oem motor mounts. fill it with paint thinner and flush the insides out. then fill it with window weld. they are now poly mounts cost 40$
#17
Junior Member
I think that is what I will try. I think I will try a 40 weight poly (I wonder what the window weld is rated at) and see if that help keep vibrations down while strengthening the mount. I found a cross section image that looks like both the top and bottom need filled. If I could figure out how to do such a pro job like the red poly mounts in the other picture that would be amazing. I think I will get a set and mess around with them. The thought of wrestling those mounts out again.....ughh...
#18
Junior Member
So Ahmad hooked me up with these amazing poly motor mounts that are serviceable and extremely strong. I installed them over the weekend and I got rid of the steel cable. To my surprise the vibration was barely noticeable. Only very slightly in drive when stopped other than that it felt just like the stock mounts. So I tried different idle speeds in DAS and found that right around 602-618 was perfect, lower made it worse and higher seemed to casue an overall high revving sensation that was a bit much. The idle speed it is at is on the higher end of the max speed and it smoothed the car right out and it feels just like it would with oem mounts in place in any gear stopped or driving as far as vibrations. They hold the motor in place very well and IMO are well worth it. If you have a 55 get em. Excellent engineering and build quality. I think the poly inserts are 40 durometer.
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GunMoto (02-06-2018)
#20
Junior Member
With the slight bit that it did have before raising the idle I don't think that would be of much concern with these anyway. It was only a tiny bit when in drive only not any of the other gears and only when at a stop. After raising the idle speed vibration is non existent. Mount issue solved, I'm getting the transmission mount as well. Will let you know how that is.
#21
Super Member
So Ahmad hooked me up with these amazing poly motor mounts that are serviceable and extremely strong. I installed them over the weekend and I got rid of the steel cable. To my surprise the vibration was barely noticeable. Only very slightly in drive when stopped other than that it felt just like the stock mounts. So I tried different idle speeds in DAS and found that right around 602-618 was perfect, lower made it worse and higher seemed to casue an overall high revving sensation that was a bit much. The idle speed it is at is on the higher end of the max speed and it smoothed the car right out and it feels just like it would with oem mounts in place in any gear stopped or driving as far as vibrations. They hold the motor in place very well and IMO are well worth it. If you have a 55 get em. Excellent engineering and build quality. I think the poly inserts are 40 durometer.
so link on where to get them please