Strigoi

They read drift and all they want to see is the finished car making smoke. I've fully enjoyed your thread on here and the videos. Drifting is something I know nothing about so I find this all interesting. Keep it up.

jumph4x

You got it buddy, we're just getting started.

mrmotoguzzi00

little bit of constructive criticism I like to hear the car more so than the music, but maybe that's just me LOL

My wife thinks I'm nuts, I'm that guy that puts the window down and turns off the music when I hear a nice car or bike....

Mike

jumph4x

Yup, yup. One of the projects coming up is removing the resonator and repositioning camera angles (plus some other gear) to better pick up the exhaust note.

superfast

Jumph4x- Just stumbled across your post today & read the whole thing, 9 pages & counting. I have to tip my hat & am extremely proud of you. Drift King Keiichi Tsuchiya would also respect you as you have done much, much more than just drifting. Live life to the fullest. Way to go!

jumph4x

Thanks for the love!

jumph4x

- Just rewired the radio into a +12V constant, correctly secured it flush (I had standout plastic pieces preventing this in the factory frame)
- Further increased the mechanical reduction on the hydro lever, replaced lever and sideplates with a tan color version

Car's back up on the jackstands. Here is list in the rough order of importance.
- Subframe reinforcement bolts, just got the parts and tools needed
- Looking to do all fluids
- Transmission refresher kit with a conductor plate and sleeves and all sorts of goodies
- Engine refresher with plugs, filters and sensors
- Front bumper quick release kit
- Supercharger cooling project

Car developed an exhaust leak at some point after the resonator delete, need to take a look at that as well. Hoping to bang out most if not all of this before the August 16th Sonoma Drift event, already have my ticket! Come kick it.

Jimshorts

Good luck man! Hope you get it all squared away in time. Making me miss my E, car was so much fun to get sideways

jumph4x

- Rear subframe bolts replaced
- New conductor plate, electrical plug, filter in the ATF
- New engine oil, filter
- New coolant

The heat exchanger fitting had a slow leak. I gave them another 360*, need to test by driving.
Also had a couple of panic attacks while servicing the ATF, broke the old conductor plate, broke an electrical plug. The valve body is heavier than I imagined!

jumph4x

Halp!

Something isn't right after the transmission service. I will outline what happened chronologically and if this sounds like anything to anyone, please chime in.

TL;DR: I did a major transmission service with a new conductor plate and sleeves, I filled it up with 3.5L of fluid and the car wouldn't drive (software indicates transmission cannot get out of N or P).

I kept adding fluid and am now up to 7L, so I stopped. Dipstick reading is arbitrarily high but no fluid comes out of the drain bolt. With the engine running, I can hear a quit periodic ticking from the transmission sounding like it could possibly be a solenoid. About once every second.

Here are the exact steps I followed.

- I drained the ATF through the bolt
- I took off six perimeter clamp bolts
- I drained what is in the pan since it has a lip on the drain bolt
- I started undoing the valve body bolts
- I tried to tilt it, I realized the plug has to come out first
- I loosely secured it back to the transmission
- I took out the electrical pluig
- I took out the valve body
- I took off the solenoids
- I discarded the old conductor plate
- I undid the sleeve plates one by one, follow Sonnex directions and reinstalled the new sleeves, tightening the plate bolts carefully
- I installed the new conductor plate
- I installed the solenoids
- I installed the valve body back into the transmission
- I installed a new filter
- I reinstalled the pan using a new gasket and new electrical plug seals
- I connected the electrical plug

EDIT: I will check the obvious thing tomorrow if no other ideas arise - the linkage at the valve body.

jumph4x

Welp, subwoofer upgrade in the mail as consolation/distraction

BoostedAero

A:
The possible good:

You may have knocked the shifter rod out and lost a clip... doubtful proceed to steps below if shifter rod is still attached (one side on trans/ other at fulcrum both have clips to hold on)


B:

The bad... order more fluid (5 quarts should do)

You need to drop the pan, and VB again...

As you raise the valve body back up, there is a small flat spring that slightly compresses as you push valve body you also have to line up the tab on the manual valve that changes hydraulic pressure to switch from P to R to D. On the drivers side of the trans, there is a metal piece that goes back and forth that is attached to the shifter in the car.
It attaches and changes direction and forms a metal tab/rod that needs to be lined up inserted into the little plastic piece of the manual valve as you raise it up.

Get a helper, or crawl under car, new clean trash bag on chest, put valve body on your chest on the bag slide under car, wear some clean mechanics silicone gloves. PUT ON SAFETY GLASSES before too. Gently push valve body carefully in place. Depress the spring, with one hand holding valve body up, reach around and find the plastic piece mentioned above (its the only one exposed with plastic). Lower VB an inch, line valve up then push it up solidly and smoothly then get your T30 bolts in and you will be good... filler up and go

Hit me up if you have any questions man, not that hard to do and an easy mistake to make.

jumph4x

Thank you for the response!

I'm having a tough time visualizing it, might have to find me an EPC diagram...

BoostedAero

#52 in the bottom diagram

http://www.sf.nexedge.com.my/140/etm...g_08g_09g.html

Once you drop the pan you will see whats up, pretty easy to identify

PJmak

sonnax dot com has some very detailed and colorful diagrams of the valve body and trans for these tranies

jumph4x

Oh, totally. The linkage part is easy, I was referring to your option B.

Thank you, thank you.

jumph4x

Just got in there an checked everything, even dropped the valve body, cleaned the electrical plug. No difference.

The linkage is correctly in the yellow plastic slot and i made sure to the depress the little black finger near the manual valve.





The spring you talked about is black and touches the metal part of the linkage, correct?

Also this just popped up: https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...on-t-move.html

jumph4x

I think at this point my biggest clue/question is: what could be causing ATF to be sitting high in the filler tube and not be making it way down into the oilpan?

jumph4x

And to answer my own big question: the ATF will be sitting very high in the filler tube when you pour it into the engine oil filler. So the 7 or so quarts were on top of the already generous 8.5 in the engine.

Luckily idling the motor under zero load with a lot of solvent in it is not cause for worry. However having that amount of fluid in the motor is pretty dangerous.

ANYWAYS, I can't believe I just did this, but on the other hand, what the **** would compel an engineer to put a simple plug instead of a dipstick in there...

Car shakedown tomorrow. Ensuring proper ATF level after warming it up, testing supercharger cooling plumbing, mounting all the underside panels, probably also mounting the bumper quick release kit and all that.

jumph4x

One more note: the ZZP unit seems to fit nicely into the bumper. I haven't mounted and done shakedown with the bumper quite yet, but I've done a test fit and as far as I can tell things look great.

The plastic mounting tabs will need to be ground down a touch and the two bolts that come up form the bottom into the bumper support will not be accessible, but all in all should work great.

Here is a photo after I used a dremel to cut off a corner from one of the side:

BoostedAero

Jump, Imma PM you good find brother

Fill oil/trans correctly then use an engine flush and refill

No fluid = no pressure = no shift hombre

That is more than likely the only thing I see that occured

bbirdwell

I'm trying not to smile. But, it is kinda funny and I'm glad you found the issue without damage to your car.

The closest to this I ever came was while changing the motor oil I added 6 new quarts in the engine and *then* realized I had not put the drain plug back in...

Keep posting updates, please.

BoostedAero

We have all made a boo-boo it's part of the learning process along the way. At least Jump is straight up and honest and posted up so we are not all scratching out heads being like...

"What does he mean it spontaneously resolved...?"

Thanks for closing the loop on the fault and post up once you get it buttoned up and moving under its own power

jumph4x

Thanks for the kind words, folks.

Please laugh, please smile. It's healthy, it helps everyone around you and some would argue its the reason we're here. To share nice moments.

My POV is always this: if I went through a ****ty time and someone finds it amusing, it's a lot more utilitarian than everyone being grumpy about it. At least there is something positive on the other side of the tunnel!

I am always the first to laugh at myself:
a) it beats everyone else to the punch
b) i have more fun
c) it reminds me to be humble

The car is running around today under it's own power. Everything seems great. Logging IAT's, I'm liking what I see: the temperature lives lower, climbs quickly and drops quickly.

Today is a dry low-to-mid 80s day here in Oakland and driving around town it hangs out around 40-50C. Beating the car up a little got it as high as 75C. But mind you, it's still burping a little bit here and there, so I keep adding water. That and the aero will be a little worse when the bumper skin goes back on.

All the rest of the TODO is completed as well, new IAT sensor, new air filters, 16 new spark plugs, etc.

tw2

I didn't tighten the turbo oil feed on a previous car, I just put the banjo in with the intention of torquing it correctly afterwards. Started car, oil immediately all over the garage floor.

I was wondering how 7L fit in a 4L transmission pan.