J.J.D.O.

I currently drive either a 2013 427 Vette or 2016 BMW 535d. I'm considering the addition of a 2004 E55 AMG. I would like to make this a project car (e.g. restoration project) that I would drive rather frequently. I'd be looking for reliability first with power and performance a very close second and third. Based on the post I've scoured thus far, it would seem these vehicles require a substantial amount of maintenance on a relatively routine basis to maintain reliability and performance.

My question is this, would owners of a 2004 E55 AMG consider this car worthy of a substantial investment of both time and money?

Opinions appreciated.

skylinrcr01

I've had my car for ~1 year. This is what I've had to replace in the 20Kish miles I've put on it

- 1 Air strut ($500)
- SBC accumulator ($150)
- Air filters ($50 for all of them)
- 2 oil changes ($~50 each)
- Diff fluid change ($20)
- Spark plugs (16x @$5/ea)
- Valve cover gaskets (~$30)
- Transmission service, filter fluid and gasket (~$100)
- I/C pump (~$100)
- Tires

I need to do the thrust arms soon as well, the joints are wearing out, as well as a brake job. Both of those things will be priceyish.

If you do your own work, this is an awesomely fast comfortable car for a really good price. If you aren't comfortable wrenching on it, it can be very pricey to own.

The big problem points are the SBC system as well as the Airmatic shocks failing. Both of those systems are not if, but rather when types of deals. With high hp cars, as I'm sure you know from you're 'vette, they can eat tires. The E55 is no exception.

All that said, I'm very happy with my car, and the drive train is generally very bulletproof on them.

gjunon

As was said already, as long as you do your own work these cars are a blast to drive. Even though I do my own work I've put in around 2k to get her up to snuff from the previous owners neglect. I would recommend buying a star system as you'll eventually need one to do brake maintenance.

The engine and transmission are great. It is the ancillary stuff that fails that usually plagues this car.

J.J.D.O.

At what general mileage do things start to pop up?

If I bought one of these, I would like to take it to a Indy and have all the problem parts addressed. I would have all fluids changed. Possibly a compression and leak down. Depending on the charge, change spark plugs. A good Indy could tell me exactly what to do.

I don't know much about the aromatic suspension, but I'd love to dial it in, maybe even replace it with coilovers if that would be better.I assume an AMG model has a pretty good suspension but that is based on 100% speculation and no experience.

Thoughts?

GrumpyDad

J.J.D.O

Here is my experience:

First off I too do all my own work - I am a tech (30 plus years) in an Euro and Asian import shop. I purchased my 04 E55 in June of 2016. It had 92k on it. It now has 102k on it and it is my daily driver. It averages 17-18 mpg.

Of all the cars I've owned, this is by far, my favorite.



This is how I went through it:
1. New Nissens radiator (Very high quality, great price). It was not leaking but there were issues with the 03's and early 04's having trans cooler failures, mixing atf with coolant. I didn't want to chance it.
2. MBZ thermostat, radiator hoses, coolant, expansion tank cap and distilled water. Again, preventive maintenance.
3. Complete transmission service. MBZ filter, gasket, electrical plug and flushed with 13 qts of Shell ATF134 (Following MBZ flush procedure - very effective).
4. Oil and filter service. 9 qts Mobil-1 0-40 euro and Mann oil filter, oil filter housing.
5. A/C evacuate and recharge. These systems work fairly well (In AZ) when serviced properly.
6. Bosch "10" Intercooler pump and proper coolant air bleed.

That got the car to the point where I felt comfortable driving it 50 miles a day in AZ heat.

Since then I have done the following.

7. New front and rear brakes with Textar rotors (Excellent part, good price) and Akebono euro brake pads (Very little brake dust vs. MBZ genuine)
8. Lower ball joints - Lemforder, and alignment.
9. Rear air springs - Arnott
10. Another oil service

I have also done the following "Fun Things"

11. Vossen CV3-R wheels and Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires - 20".
12. Eurocharged 83mm S/C pulley.
13. Eurocharged Tune.
14. Eurocharged TCU Tune
15. Lowered (More than picture) with scan-tool and links.

The other items to expect are:

-Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) - They have a fixed number of brake applications with a counter in it's module. When counter expires, warning light goes on, you replace the unit.
-Motor and trans mounts
-Various suspension components
-Valve cover gaskets
-Belts
-In-dash ac components - mix and temp door actuators etc.
-Fuel tank (MBZ extended warranty coverage)
-Various electrical

Even with everything listed, I still consider it a very reliable car. The engine and transmission is fairly bullet proof, as long as it's serviced. MBZ's Active Service System notifies at 10k for oil services. I change mine at 6-7k. Again, on the safe side.

Please don't interpret this as a "Look at Me" on my behalf. It's just the reality, in my experience of owning a European car (ANY European Car). They require quality parts and regular service (I guess most cars do).

I hope this helps. Feel free to ask any questions.

I would buy it again - In a second!

tw2

The suspension in the E55 is fairly soft. You can do some tweaks to make it handle a lot better but coilovers would be the best way to increase handling performance while making it totally reliable. I quite like the airmatic, very comfortable.

Anything can break anytime at this age and mileage. Cars with very low mileage can have gremlins pop up from lack of use. SBS, fuel pumps and airmatic are probably the main expensive issues.

Manuyc

sorry i didnt know E55 were that old to be called restoring one.
but most are very reliable and bullet proof. only issues that cost money is the air shocks and the SBC pump which cost anywhere from $900 used to $1500 brand new SBC pump. those are only two major problems with these cars.

bbirdwell

And once more into the breach my friends...and yes, it is worth the investment.

Speaking from personal experience (mine is a long-distance daily driver), I would suggest you first focus on maintenance and system checks. Not sexy, not glorious, but vital to your car's continued functioning and your safety.

Do you have all maintenance records? Go through them carefully.
-If you do not own internal and external Torx bits and sockets, buy a full set (and I mean a full set). I also found that Mercedes installed standard metric hex-head bolts in sizes not normally used by Oriental car makers; i.e. 15mm, 18mm, 19mm.
-Purchase a quality diagnostic system. Star equivalent. Do *not* cheap out on this.
-If your car has more than 60,000 miles, you'd better have evidence the fuel pumps/filters/relay were replaced via a service or the Mercedes repair (many posts on this subject). If no proof, cough up the $1000 for the parts (labor not included!) and replace immediately.
-Remove the belts; spin all pulleys and ensure smooth operation. Any roughness or noise, ruthlessly replace them. Rebuild the supercharger idler pulley for $27 or buy a new one for $540. Remember I said, "full set of Torx bits"? The tensioner pulley on the bottom of the engine uses an odd-size Torx bit that is usually not included in the standard sets. Very easy to strip the Torx bolt and it is in a *bad* location to remove if stripped. (No need to ask me how I learned this one.)
-Inspect the supercharger clutch springs for cracks. If cracked, replace immediately!!! If one of the springs lets go, it will buzz saw right through the oil line next to it. Purchase and install a supercharger clutch scatter shield from LM21 here on the forum. Beautifully made and worth every penny.
-If you are near 100,000 miles, spark plugs and wires. You'll need the Mercedes spark plug boot removal tool to make this easy. The wires are multiple part numbers and sizes so remove and place in order on the floor so you can match the new ones to the old.
-Inspect the motor mounts and transmission mount. The motor mounts take some maneuvering; I believe AeroBoosted (or was it Seanol?) created a great DIY that explains how to slide the driver’s side mount across the front of the car to fit the mount into place. Yes, the motor is crammed into the engine bay; it is that tight in there. (If not attributed correctly, please let me know!)
-Inspect the flex discs on the driveshaft and the center support bracket and bearing. Any cracks in the flex discs you should replace. As long as the driveshaft is out, replace the support bracket (it has a rubber support in it that sags over time) and the bearing.
-Take a look at how the tires are wearing; if both inside and outside of a tire are "chunking" or "peeling", it is a good bet you need bushings and ball joints. Don't let a static alignment fool you into thinking all is well. With the car on the rack it will align into spec but once you get it on the road the dynamics of the suspension will have the wheels and tires moving back and forth (thus the undue wear on both inside and outside simultaneously on the tires). By 90K to 100K miles, you can bet your lower ball joints are bad. Another clue to bad ball joints is the car will be very unstable in the rain; if you get apprehensive in the rain anytime you drive over 55 mph, your suspension needs a rebuild.
-You can only easily adjust the toe on these cars. Camber can be adjusted in a single +0.3 or -0.3 degree using slotted bolts. Otherwise, to adjust camber you need to raise/lower your car by calibrating the suspension. Front camber aftermarket option is KMac bushings. I’m happy with mine. Rear camber adjustments, I have not found anything that I like and have no recommendations. YMMV.
-Keep an eye on the SBC brake actuation count using Star. Plan on the expense of replacing the SBC rather than just resetting the counter. i.e. don't be a "Cheap Charlie". I personally appreciate the fact the airlines pull engines and rebuild at a set interval rather than running them until they quit in the air with me on board.
-The Sensotronic Brake Control (SBC) can crush your fingers if you work on the brake system without following the proper procedures. It activates automatically whether or not you have the key in the ignition. Disable it with Star before endangering yourself.
-Purchase a Solar BA-5 battery tester and monitor the health of your batteries. When down to 50% of capacity, replace. Again, don't wait for failure! Preventive maintenance. If the main electrical system fails, all you have is that little tiny motorcycle battery under the hood providing the power to your brake system. It won't last long so be prepared to hit the parking brake with your foot while standing on the brake pedal.
-Do NOT confuse the relay/fuse diagrams of the non-AMG W211 with your AMG W211! Non-AMG fuel pump fuse/relay are actually the AMG heat exchanger coolant pump fuse/relay. The non-AMG air pump fuse/relay are actually the AMG oil cooler radiator fan fuse/relay. In all model years E55, the fuel pump relay(s) is hidden behind the paneling on the passenger side of the trunk. E55s built on or after 1 June 2005 have two fuel pump relays in the trunk. There is no access port so you have to pull the whole panel. This $4 part will put you on the side of the road and it throws no error codes! NOTE: this is one of the more problematic areas of the E55s.
- You will find a model year 2003 and 2004 air pump relay over the auxiliary battery under the hood; in a 2005/06 the air pump relay is next to the fuel pump relay in the trunk.
-Be prepared to buy the tools and test equipment if you are going to work on it yourself. If not, have deep pockets. FWIW, I went over my car front to rear between 90,000 and 100,000 miles to rebuild major systems and spent approximately $6000 just in parts. Yes, you can replace one bad piece at a time but that just means you are going to go back into that same sub-system in a few months or so to replace another worn part. If you are in there, just do it all in one shot.
-If an air spring fails, just do the entire set at one time. Arnott makes a great replacement set. And yes, there is a specific procedure to follow when re-inflating the air springs. Use Star (notice how many times I’ve mentioned this diagnostic system? It is also invaluable in monitoring the health of your transmission.)
-Nice to add items are the UPD heat exchanger in the front and a set of UPD toe arms in the rear; allowing for the time to drop the exhaust to reach the adjustment bolts, the UPD toe arms turn a one-hour job into a 10-minute job. Both are available from Shardul here on the forum.
-Get the car into tip-top shape and then begin adding power. Remember, when this car first came out, it was the quickest 4-door sedan in the world. It is still impressive.
-The Chrysler 300 shares many parts with the W211 (transmission, rear suspension, some of the front suspension, differential, electronic modules). You can sometimes buy a Chrysler part cheaper than the Mercedes part and they are exactly the same.

kenneyd

Buy a 2009-2013 CTS-V.
In every way its a better car, Ive had both back to back. If you dont have the money, get a e55

skylinrcr01

It's just a matter of opinion, but I think the W211s look way better than the caddys. Also not a fan of the interior on them.

J.J.D.O.

I actually have this save to my computer when you posted it under different circumstances. Very informative information and much appreciated.

JJ

J.J.D.O.

Interesting opinion. Thanks.

Dublinoh

Just need to say I agree. I like the smooth curves better than the sharp lines.

kenneyd

looks are totally subjective, thus mostly irrelevant for this discussion.

the OP didn't sound like he was looking for opinions on the appearance, but rather the cost, reliability, and of a performance sedan.

ctsv is faster in every stat, handles better, brakes better, is truly bulletproof, rides better that magnetic suspension, sounds better much easier to mod, and you can get it in a manual.

having said all that, I love my still love my e55and have no plans on selling it

J.J.D.O.

While I can respect what GM put together in the CTS-V, I see them frequently and they hardly raise my brow. The opposite is true regarding the E55 AMG. I rarely see one, but when I do, it definitely grabs my attention. It's like the curves of a sexy women, or an *** you have to look at; you have to pay attention!

kenneyd

My complaint with the E55 actually turned out to be one of the most positive things about it. My complaint was that they looked too much like a regular blah E class, and after i sold my ctsv, i was so set on it C63 or an E63 that I honestly, a car geek like me had no idea what I was special about the e55 was till a week before I bought it.
but now I love the discrete , yet beautiful looks, and it still puts a big stupid grin on your face when you floor it.


still 6 months in, new air shocks, new pump, new trim parts, new headliner, new tires, new brakes, new supercharger pulley bearings, new intercooler pump, LOL

Blade Canyon

That's why they're cheap to buy, because they are expensive to own.

Dublinoh

I didn't mean to offend you, of course looks are subjective. Simply agreeing with another poster who also likes the E better.

bbirdwell

I'm glad it was of assistance; I edited it a bit for clarity and to include the info about the Chrysler 300. I wish I'd had that checklist before buying my car but, in hindsight, I wouldn't change a thing. Owning this E55 has renewed my interest in researching the technical details; first time in years a car has stoked my interest.

BrakeFade

I've got an '04 E55 as my daily and love it. My '15 SRT Charger sits in the garage 95% of the time now. I've had to do some "overlooked" maintenance to my '04 to get it up to my standards (neglected by previous owner) but it's been damn smooth and fun to drive. It's also been fairly easy to work on compared to the 540i project I tinkered with for a couple of years.
You wont regret. Just be prepared for the usual items to need replacement at this stage of this model years life: IC pumps, rear main seal (will have a shop do the rear main for me) , airmatic pump, pads/rotors, control arms, & ball joints, etc. All were pretty straight forward items to replace if you're mechanically inclined (and have a decent set of tools).......

skylinrcr01

How much did the headliner run you if you don't mind me asking? Mine's a bit droopy and generally sad looking.

J.J.D.O.

There are quite a few nice examples on auto trader, but I'm not $30K committed and I don't think I'm $20K either. Still looking for the right car / price. All input thus far appreciated.

kenneyd

I took it out removed all the foam, and reglued it. dont use 3m, use contact cement.
PITA times 74

2MERKS

All that in the write, and one pic? C'mon your killing us lol
2

2MERKS

All that in the write, and one pic? C'mon your killing us lol