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Hi guys, I've been reading through a lot of the posts on the Recirculating flap on these engines. I'm currently wiring one of these engines with a Haltech Elite 2500 ECU. I have some questions regarding this
1) Does anyone have wiring schematic for this part?
2) What would be the best way to make this function (WOT, MAP etc)
3) If I blanked this off and didn't use it would it cause any issues? (I know the supercharged would be running full time and creating extra heat)
So Haltech support said they dont think their system supports this. Seems like BS as it can handle DBW and all this really seems to be is a second throttle body (albeit activated differently).
Anyone know the wiring for this? It has 6 wires and the same plug as the throttle body.
I guess if I cant figure it I'll end up blanking it off
look up the OP on this thread ,,,, also not sure how weistec does it but they may not have a bypass like ours -- simple blow off valve based on vacuum ? https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...cu-pinout.html these motors are great
keep us posted --
It really is not necessary. Tuning for it to work the way the factory intended would take a bit of effort. I really do not see the point of it other than to run in N/A mode and not drag through the blower when the clutch in not engaged. You could easily run an RPM//window switch function for the supercharger clutch to turn off at idle or near idle and use it as a safety feature as well if you wanted. Over temp etc.
It is a DBW actuator but running it would require a completely separate map from your main one. I am assuming that they just do not have that function built in to the controller. It would require special firmware and cal tables to build an independent setup like that.
look up the OP on this thread ,,,, also not sure how weistec does it but they may not have a bypass like ours -- simple blow off valve based on vacuum ? https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...cu-pinout.html these motors are great
keep us posted --
It really is not necessary. Tuning for it to work the way the factory intended would take a bit of effort. I really do not see the point of it other than to run in N/A mode and not drag through the blower when the clutch in not engaged. You could easily run an RPM//window switch function for the supercharger clutch to turn off at idle or near idle and use it as a safety feature as well if you wanted. Over temp etc.
It is a DBW actuator but running it would require a completely separate map from your main one. I am assuming that they just do not have that function built in to the controller. It would require special firmware and cal tables to build an independent setup like that.
I'm kind of leaning to wards simplifying the set up by blanking off the flap and installing a fixed pulley. I know Ill lose some mpg and it'll create more heat but at least it should function
I used to have a C320 hatchback and saw how much room there was in the engine bay. Started investigating if I'd be able to put the M113K engine in that. Car got totalled when a lady T-boned me. After that I always had this engine in mind as its a great engine and I like to do things differently. I could easily drop an LS1 engine in my Manta and plug in an off the shelf ECU but where is the fun in that?
So Haltech support said they dont think their system supports this. Seems like BS as it can handle DBW and all this really seems to be is a second throttle body (albeit activated differently).
Anyone know the wiring for this? It has 6 wires and the same plug as the throttle body.
I guess if I cant figure it I'll end up blanking it off
It's nothing but a stepper motor. Wire up the flapper valve backwards so it works in a mirror image of the throttle plate. Possibly use the throttle valve stepper function wired in reverse and parallel to activate the supercharger valve. If Haltech is as good as they say they are, they will support this effort. :-)
I'm beginning to see why Mercedes charges so much for their cars...
I love what you are doing even though I gave up on custom cars years ago. I budgeted 6 weeks and $1600 and it took me 120 weeks and $8000 the last time I went for a custom build...thus the reason I now leave my cars stock....
Best of luck to you and may you be wildly successful!
Are we talking about the supercharger bypass valve? I would program it to operate both with rpm and run in accordance with throttle position. At idle and two hundred rpm above it is open. I don't know the exact TPS % but others might but basically light loads ie cruising it is open no matter the rpm, at higher loads it is closed no matter what the rpm is.
Your ECU can definitely do this. It is more likely they don't know how it operates and don't care to investigate since this is not a common engine for swaps or standalone ecu's. If you run with a permanently closed bypass and a fixed pulley I can't see how the supercharger wouldn't destroy itself.
You don't want to run without the bypass valve. The heat and drag generated are excessive. You would not be able to control your IAT's and the mileage will take a big hit. I've run with and without and there is a big difference in efficiency. Just use a vacuum actuated bypass valve and you will be fine.
You don't want to run without the bypass valve. The heat and drag generated are excessive. You would not be able to control your IAT's and the mileage will take a big hit. I've run with and without and there is a big difference in efficiency. Just use a vacuum actuated bypass valve and you will be fine.
I started looking for a vacuum actuated bypass valve. Are there any that are a direct fit or do they all require modification?
I run a twin throttle Whipple blower without the bypass on this engine and it works just fine on a standalone ECU (Link Thunder). The idle in my car as been set to 750ish and so it doesn't kill the engine on the throttle blip.
I run a twin throttle Whipple blower without the bypass on this engine and it works just fine on a standalone ECU (Link Thunder). The idle in my car as been set to 750ish and so it doesn't kill the engine on the throttle blip.
If I can adapt a vacuum actuated bypass valve I may go that way.
One other thought would be to machine a part to replace the original electronic bypass valve and fit a blow off valve. I know that this would mean the supercharger would be working all of the time and generating more heat, but would hope the blow off valve would be a little protection in case the engine produced too much boost (see pic). Is this a viable option?
You can fit a bypass valve of course but it's not used as a protection. Even in the standard setup it's only used for emissions and cruising. The boost is generated by the supercharger not the engine as I'm sure you know. It is belt driven so you can choose a pulley that is 'safe' for your scenario. Personally, I would keep things simple. Everyone keeps insisting on the bypass but I have not one but two throttle bodies and a bigger blower and the car is as civilised as they come. I'd suggest finding a better tuner, not complicating the setup.
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