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What tool are you guys using? I see people hammering on the plastic splines with a block of wood or screwdriver, some use the universal adjustable ones from eBay or Amazon. There are also genuine tools anywhere from $55-150 from the usual suppliers. I think fcpeuro had the best price for a proper one.
My car smells of gas inside for the first time ever after I filled up last night. The garage smelling was a bit annoying but the inside of the car is not going to work for me so it's time to actually fix it. I will try new seals first and then replace the pumps and sender if it doesn't work.
Thanks for the advice, I don't really want to buy one but it sounds like it is a very good idea. Any suggestions? about the only reasonably priced one ($55) that definitely has w211 listed is this one from FCP.
A Very Large set of Channelocks (water pump pliers?) will tighten the flange nicely. A buddy of mine replaced the fuel pump on his E500. Prior to putting the seat back in place, I offered to make sure the flange was tight (after he felt like using a screwdriver/hammer to spin it). I easily got another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out of it. Felt just about right and he hasn't had a problem in the year since we did it. WAYY smoother than beating on it with a block of wood and a hammer, and no special tools involved.
I took the hatch off last night and the fuel has pooled on top of the tank and inside the white fuel pump top. I sealed the top last time with JB weld but looking at the seal design it can only be coming through the top, it can't come out via the seal and back around. It must be coming through the electrical plug which I left alone.
Thanks for the tool suggestions. Off to the dealer for parts prices...
Thanks for the links. I am just waiting on the dealer at the moment to find the correct parts. They have two sender units listed and a bunch of cheaper parts including two wiring harnesses, I was only expecting one. I must find out how many hours they charge as I don't know if I want to do this repair myself after experiencing the smell of gas everyday.
Assuming your tank is similar to the US version, if the the tank assembly has not been replaced it may be very difficult to seal the system even with a new pump and / or filter-sender. In my experience when the retainer nut is removed, the plastic tank distorts at the threaded opening. Even after installing new units, seals, and lock rings, it will usually continue to leak even after properly tightening the lock ring.
Yep it is all the same except my filter side is the less common version with only one electrical plug. I have read similar stories about needing a new tank but unfortunately that isn't really on the cards at the moment. If my logic is correct, I have a leak through the top of the pump assembly so at least that will be fixed. Hopefully I am not exchanging it for a seal leak. Or I just enjoy my mr2 for a while and worry about it later in the year.
Thanks, if I need a new tank I will get one but it might take a few months to get it all sorted in that case- I find everything likes to go wrong or break at the same time at the moment. I will try with the original tank first and I have seen some threads where some people have had success gently remoulding the shape and getting a good seal.
My vote is DIY. Not for the money, but to know it's done right.
A mask with activated charcoal filters will allow you to do it without the fumes. 3bond 1211 silicone if it looks like it might leak. If you put it on clean it absolutely will work, and you WILL be able to get it off again for the next set of pumps.
I guess MB only covered the USA for the recall? It's an easy task to perform, just stinky and messy. Much easier with a fully drained tank. I wouldn't bother with the tool for one or 2 times.I don't think the seal will be an issue. Are you changing the pumps as well?
Yes pump housing is probably cracked so will need the whole pump assembly with new pumps. And of course it only works with the updated filter assembly so need both sides despite that side being perfect and I only have about 28,000 miles.
I never considered a charcoal breathing mask, that would be a great help. I have a pretty good relationship with my dealer. I will see how I feel about it once I see their final quote today. I am expecting $4000 and I can import all the parts from the US incl all shipping and taxes for $2200 but I am worried about parts not being correct and needing exchanging.
I've used the real Mercedes tool, and this is the one I bought for my own use because the design is equal or better. You want a 4 pronged tool so that it will tighten equally across the circle.
Well the parts came in at $4000 as expected (yay good guess ), $1000 labour, 8 hours with tank removal. I presume it can be done with the tank in the car or it is heaps easier to just drop it?
I would like to get it done at the dealer but it has been a pretty bad year. I might see what FCPeuro can do and do the job myself.
Yikes! It's only about $1100 here, if you diy. I did it in the car, and it took about a half hour. Part of that was swapping 2 wires in the plug, because I didn't have the adapter harness for the pump power. In the end I decided that was a cleaner way to do it than adding more wires and connections .I did use the adapter harness on the sender side though. What does what wasn't so obvious over there.
I think tank removal is for tank replacement, That quote might include the tank.
US$1100 is about NZ$1700. This is my parts list, comes to $1204 from pelican parts but there might be cheaper prices out there:
211-470-00-00 - Fuel Pump Assembly with Fuel Level Sending Unit $520-660 (I don't know the difference between the two types
211 470 64 94 - Fuel Pump Assembly with Fuel Level Sending Unit $580
I will have to pay tax, shipping, customs clearance, biosecurity check, customs brokerage fee's which is where the extra comes from. I think we are kind of like Canada with crap prices compared with the US. I will have to send photos to triple check I am getting the correct unit before ordering. I think I have the non- "partial zero emission" setup.
The dealer quote doesn't come with the fuel tank, I am scared to ask how much that would be. I have rebuilt heads, wired in ECU's, replaced clutches, I am sure I can get the octopus tentacles to the correct locations.
Emails sent to FCP and SGautosports for the tool. Then just need a few feet of some braided fuel hose so I can tape my gauge onto the windscreen to check the fuel pressure under boost as well as at idle afterwards.
Emails sent to FCP and SGautosports for the tool. Then just need a few feet of some braided fuel hose so I can tape my gauge onto the windscreen to check the fuel pressure under boost as well as at idle afterwards.
It's actually from JTC Tools. Part number is JTC-1550.
Thanks heaps, I ordered this one. I liked the black one above but the price and shipping was a lot more. There was also a really nicely designed purple one that fit on every notch but someone said the 1/2" drive square started to deform as it was aluminum or I would have got that one.
I never heard back from the SG autosports so eBay it is.
07-23-2018, 09:54 PM
), $1000 labour, 8 hours with tank removal. I presume it can be done with the tank in the car or it is heaps easier to just drop it?
