Supercharger gasket question
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Supercharger gasket question
Hey all,
I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.
Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.
-Chris
I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.
Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.
-Chris
#2
Super Member
Hey all,
I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.
Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.
-Chris
I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.
Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.
-Chris
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
#4
Super Member
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
One suggestion is to use guiding rods when installing supercharger back on, this will also help keeping gaskets in place. I got mine at Home Depot, I got two long ones and cut them down to about 6-10" not too long or else you get charger jammed up against something and not having to lift it up so high. I placed two rods at each ends on both sides. Other things to consider are torque spec, and I used the ultra black RTV from MB for sealing the intercooler to the SC.
See below link from member doing TB swap, very helpful!
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ll-no-cel.html
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks MSG 55G
Were the rods/dowels you used threaded? Or did you just stick something close enough in the boltholes?
Good to know that the rectangular area of the intercooler is the only one that needs silicone. I'll probably use Permatex Right Stuff, or regular Ultra Black.
Thanks again
Were the rods/dowels you used threaded? Or did you just stick something close enough in the boltholes?
Good to know that the rectangular area of the intercooler is the only one that needs silicone. I'll probably use Permatex Right Stuff, or regular Ultra Black.
Thanks again
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SoCal - OC
Posts: 266
Received 35 Likes
on
25 Posts
2004 CL55, 2003 SL55 and 2009 G55
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
Mick
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#8
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,333
Received 982 Likes
on
764 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Some excellent info/tips/tricks on supercharger removal in this thread from 2016. Denroll's step-by-step advice is good stuff. And the advice about the bypass valve rubber gaskets is golden.
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ere-items.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ere-items.html
The following users liked this post:
AMG_55_cruiser (04-10-2019)
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks bbirdwell....there is great info in that thread. It should be a huge help.
One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.
I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.
Thanks for all the replies thus far.
One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.
I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.
Thanks for all the replies thus far.
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 3,333
Received 982 Likes
on
764 Posts
'99 and '05 E55 AMG
Thanks bbirdwell....there is great info in that thread. It should be a huge help.
One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.
I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.
Thanks for all the replies thus far.
One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.
I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.
Thanks for all the replies thus far.
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810527
Be sure to select "2-way".
The following users liked this post:
AMG_55_cruiser (04-10-2019)
#12
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orbiting the planet
Posts: 4,478
Received 1,489 Likes
on
986 Posts
This place is a joke.
Apply a very small bead of sealant to the SC outlet flange...3-4mm in diameter is all you need. It will compress and spread out. Remember, you're not making an oil pan gasket for a 1972 small block Chevy.
#13
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks...will do. I've used "The Right Stuff" RTV in the past with great results. It can be a bear to remove, so I think I'll just stick with good ol' Ultra Black Permatex. I don't want to overthink it.
Thanks again
Thanks again
The following users liked this post:
AMG_55_cruiser (04-10-2019)
#14
MBWorld Fanatic!
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Orbiting the planet
Posts: 4,478
Received 1,489 Likes
on
986 Posts
This place is a joke.
I use the MB black sealant, but whatever type you are comfortable with is fine, this isn't a critical area. Also, don't hurt your back lifting the SC off. It's fairly heavy. I stand on top of the engine, put the hood in the service position (straight up- do you know how?) One foot on a valve cover one on the core support. Fold a furniture blanket over the headlight area and lift with your legs and place the SC down on the blanket, then climb down. Or, better just ask someone to help! MB makes a dowel alignment tool but it's probably expensive, so use some homemade studs to place it back into place. No sealant on any other gaskets is needed.
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 04-09-2019 at 08:41 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: SoCal - OC
Posts: 266
Received 35 Likes
on
25 Posts
2004 CL55, 2003 SL55 and 2009 G55
Try this under "automotive connectors":
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810527
Be sure to select "2-way".
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810527
Be sure to select "2-way".