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Supercharger gasket question

Old 04-08-2019, 08:55 PM
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87 Grand National; 2006 e55
Supercharger gasket question

Hey all,

I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.

Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.

-Chris
Old 04-08-2019, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by quikv6
Hey all,

I am going to be removing my supercharger in the next week or two. I ordered 8 lower injector 0-rings, and all new MB gaskets for the bypass valve, lower intake, throttle body, and surge tanks. I know the rectangular area of the intercooler gets silicone, but aside from that, is permatex needed anywhere else? I am assuming all gaskets are installed dry, but just want to confirm.

Feel free to add anything else I missed to do the job, or any pointers along the way. Thanks in advance...all help is appreciated.

-Chris
I might of missed it, but did you mentioned a reason you are removing your supercharge?
Old 04-08-2019, 09:57 PM
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87 Grand National; 2006 e55
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.

The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
Old 04-08-2019, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by quikv6
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.

The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
Ok, all the luck with your project! I done my 82TB swap last Nov, let me know if you have a head scratcher, I'd be glad to help if I can.

One suggestion is to use guiding rods when installing supercharger back on, this will also help keeping gaskets in place. I got mine at Home Depot, I got two long ones and cut them down to about 6-10" not too long or else you get charger jammed up against something and not having to lift it up so high. I placed two rods at each ends on both sides. Other things to consider are torque spec, and I used the ultra black RTV from MB for sealing the intercooler to the SC.

See below link from member doing TB swap, very helpful!
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ll-no-cel.html
Old 04-09-2019, 06:59 AM
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Thanks MSG 55G

Were the rods/dowels you used threaded? Or did you just stick something close enough in the boltholes?

Good to know that the rectangular area of the intercooler is the only one that needs silicone. I'll probably use Permatex Right Stuff, or regular Ultra Black.

Thanks again
Old 04-09-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by quikv6
I am changing the bypass flap. The car is not making any boost at all. A STAR scan revealed P208e (m16/7 recirculating air flap) fault.

The voltages are out of range, and the flap doesn't respond to the STAR test when forcing it to change it's angle. The percentage remains the same. I checked fuses as well, and all are good.
I’ve been researching why this is needed if the CLK DTM SC is just open without this bypass. Any info?

Mick
Old 04-09-2019, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by AMG_55_cruiser
I’ve been researching why this is needed if the CLK DTM SC is just open without this bypass. Any info?

Mick
I don't have any info. That's a good question. Hopefully some of the experts will chime in on that.
Old 04-09-2019, 03:17 PM
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Some excellent info/tips/tricks on supercharger removal in this thread from 2016. Denroll's step-by-step advice is good stuff. And the advice about the bypass valve rubber gaskets is golden.

https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ere-items.html
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Old 04-09-2019, 03:59 PM
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Thanks bbirdwell....there is great info in that thread. It should be a huge help.

One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.

I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.

Thanks for all the replies thus far.
Old 04-09-2019, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by quikv6
Thanks bbirdwell....there is great info in that thread. It should be a huge help.

One of my only concerns is somewhat odd: On my car, the wiring to the clutch magnet must've got damaged at some point. Normally, there would be that electrical connector for the magnet just to the left of the pulley. On my car, it is literally the 2 wires going into a big black glob of silicone, and out come the two wires after the glob. I don't even know if the connector is the the glob. If it is, I am guessing it is damaged.

I am assuming this needs to be undone when removing the blower, and I'm not sure what to do. I guess I'll have to cut around the silicone, and cut the wires to the magnet. I'd love to find the proper male/female connector, and redo it...but I doubt they have their own part numbers.

Thanks for all the replies thus far.
Try this under "automotive connectors":
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810527

Be sure to select "2-way".
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Old 04-09-2019, 04:28 PM
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Thanks. Great tip. Hopefully I can find something that works
Old 04-09-2019, 05:57 PM
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Apply a very small bead of sealant to the SC outlet flange...3-4mm in diameter is all you need. It will compress and spread out. Remember, you're not making an oil pan gasket for a 1972 small block Chevy.
Old 04-09-2019, 07:15 PM
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Thanks...will do. I've used "The Right Stuff" RTV in the past with great results. It can be a bear to remove, so I think I'll just stick with good ol' Ultra Black Permatex. I don't want to overthink it.

Thanks again
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Old 04-09-2019, 08:37 PM
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I use the MB black sealant, but whatever type you are comfortable with is fine, this isn't a critical area. Also, don't hurt your back lifting the SC off. It's fairly heavy. I stand on top of the engine, put the hood in the service position (straight up- do you know how?) One foot on a valve cover one on the core support. Fold a furniture blanket over the headlight area and lift with your legs and place the SC down on the blanket, then climb down. Or, better just ask someone to help! MB makes a dowel alignment tool but it's probably expensive, so use some homemade studs to place it back into place. No sealant on any other gaskets is needed.

Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; 04-09-2019 at 08:41 PM.
Old 04-10-2019, 02:41 AM
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Old 04-10-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bbirdwell
Try this under "automotive connectors":
https://www.delcity.net/store/Weathe...10525.h_810527

Be sure to select "2-way".
you can also try someone parting SC out. They may be able to cut it a few inches on either side.

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