Bigger supercharger TENSIONER pulley???
I just got a new toy - a lathe. Currently I'm fabricating a new supercharger belt tensioner pulley with it - just to train a bit
It's gonna be made of aluminum. I'll surely use a bigger bearing than the stock one - just for strenght and I was thinking.... maybe I should make the pulley a bit bigger? Let's say by 3-4mm in outside diameter.
I gues that it may "hold" the belt from slipping a bit better than the stock one (stock old tensioner arm stays in place).
Will such thing have any disadvantages?
Last edited by coobah; Oct 24, 2019 at 02:17 PM.
The pulley is done. And it works

(sorry for my dirty engine - I have this car since 3 months and didn't get into engine detailing yet
)


Alignment (if I understand it properly) went out not bad:

Disadvantages? (I still did not ride with it much yet)
1. Beasause of the bigger bearing I used I needed to shave a bit of "lip" that surrounds the bearing on the tensioner side (really minor thing)
2. You need the "brake line wrench" to move the tensioner now

If anything wrong happens with/beacause of it in the future, I'll surely come back here and report it.
I'll surely get back to that and most probably will drill some more holes in the future.
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This is is a better way to wrap the belt to eliminate slipping. I moved the wrap kit idler pulley location up and over to increase the wrap. Works a treat with a 74mm SC puley.




I'll surely get back to that and most probably will drill some more holes in the future.
The pulley is done. And it works

(sorry for my dirty engine - I have this car since 3 months and didn't get into engine detailing yet
)


Alignment (if I understand it properly) went out not bad:

Disadvantages? (I still did not ride with it much yet)
1. Beasause of the bigger bearing I used I needed to shave a bit of "lip" that surrounds the bearing on the tensioner side (really minor thing)
2. You need the "brake line wrench" to move the tensioner now

If anything wrong happens with/beacause of it in the future, I'll surely come back here and report it.
Do you know that you need to cut/grind/mill the wheel (or drill out the rivets) to swap the bearing on a stock pulley?
(I'm pretty sure it was the 6303 type of bearing but I'll confirm tomorrow)
Last edited by coobah; Dec 12, 2019 at 03:07 AM.
If you can send me the type of bearing and maybe even upload a photo of it that would be great. Thank you!!
If you can send me the type of bearing and maybe even upload a photo of it that would be great. Thank you!!
The bearing is 6303 - C3 closed from both sides
C3 is the norm of the play inside the bearing - for higher temp work etc.
BTW: If I had access to a full machine shop I'd definitely make another/new aluminum pulley with oversized bearing held by a circlip instead of fighting with the stock ****ty pulley.
For what? For such a pulley? Hmmm... I'm not making it in "series" on CNC etc. Making one is around 80-85 Euros for a set with a quality bearing and the circlip. You could choose the outside diameter of the wheel itself and the size of the bearing (stock/oversized - just like mine's done). I can also powder coat it for you if you'd want (extra charge). Please note I'm located in Europe.






