Super Charger Cutoff / Limp Mode At WOT
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...ml#post8253075
I have this weird issue where my E55 will just cutoff the supercharger and go into limp mode (ESP Visit Workshop) until restarted.
Car drives great as long as I'm not on it 100%. Once I go WOT a few seconds later you can feel it cut the supercharger then the ESP light comes on and I get some codes...
Just recently started happening as the weather got cooler. Has ran fine for months.
Here is a video of the car acting up (the clunk you hear is me hitting the steering wheel with my phone due to S/C cutoff):
I ran a STAR "Quick Test" to get all of the codes.
See attached PDF (DAS1.pdf) if interested.
The only codes in the report that stick out are:
ME2-SFI - Motor electronics 2.8
P207C ( Supercharger ) , Mechanical fault (P0660)
ESP - Electronic stability program
531A The CAN message from control module Motor electronics is invalid or
implausible.
System diagnosis
930E Synchronization of the DTC memory cannot be ensured./
Ignore the low voltage codes in the DAS document. I had just unplugged my battery when changing brake pads...
The ESP codes will clear with just a simple restart of the car. The car also leaves limp mode and lets me use the supercharger again.
However the ECM codes stay current and stored...
I ran some diagnostics, clutch on S/C engages fine with star... The intercooler pump is working fine...
I checked the super charger wiring/clutch plug, cleaned the throttle body, reset the car by leaving both batteries unplugged for 24 hours.
Spark plugs, MAP sensor, IAT sensor and crankshaft position sensor all replaced within ~2500 miles.
I tried a sneaky adaptions reset, replacing the conductor plate and even a new TCU... Nothing seems to help.
In order to help figure out what the issue is I made a few runs using Torque to do some data logging of my E55...
First pull is at about row 655 in the attached "tracklog" file.
The IAT seems fine, reaches a peak of 109F under load....
I'm sort of at a loss right now... I'm not sure where to look next.
Some people had mentioned it possibly being the accelerator pedal but I haven't seen any codes for it and it doesn't act up except at WOT.
I had made a different thread but it was before I did all of my testing/research. This one is combined with the steps I have taken and log/DAS data.
In case it helps here is the list of mods on my car
Mods:
77mm UPD SC Pulley
VRP Belt Wrap Kit
550cc Injectors
VRP 3" Intake Kit
PLM XL Heat Exchanger
Split Cooling
Removed Resonators
RaceIQ Tune
Last edited by OldPizza; Jan 22, 2021 at 10:18 AM.




1) Around 689, you are at 70% throttle at a higher speed, but are making no boost, that should be impossible given your mods (which are basically identical to mine!).
2) Around 927 you are at 10 psi under WOT, which seems too low but at least more 'normal'
I'd run another log and only track boost, rpm, and TPS. Those numbers could just look bad because the log didn't pick up enough data points. If you have WIS look up the mechanical fault code and what parameters set that code, that will be your best diagnostic path. If not I can look it up after work
. IATs are fine so no worrying there. For reference my car at 60mph at WOT with your mods makes just a hair over 15 psi (I'm also at sea level).
1) Around 689, you are at 70% throttle at a higher speed, but are making no boost, that should be impossible given your mods (which are basically identical to mine!).
2) Around 927 you are at 10 psi under WOT, which seems too low but at least more 'normal'
I'd run another log and only track boost, rpm, and TPS. Those numbers could just look bad because the log didn't pick up enough data points. If you have WIS look up the mechanical fault code and what parameters set that code, that will be your best diagnostic path. If not I can look it up after work
. IATs are fine so no worrying there. For reference my car at 60mph at WOT with your mods makes just a hair over 15 psi (I'm also at sea level).2) that also make sense, I had turned off the car and restarted it then did another WOT run. It seems like I'm only able to make 10 - 11 lbs of boost before I get thrown into limp mode...
I've used WIS all of like two times, hah. I'll try to look it up in WIS and see if I can figure anything out.
1) Around 689, you are at 70% throttle at a higher speed, but are making no boost, that should be impossible given your mods (which are basically identical to mine!).
2) Around 927 you are at 10 psi under WOT, which seems too low but at least more 'normal'
I'd run another log and only track boost, rpm, and TPS. Those numbers could just look bad because the log didn't pick up enough data points. If you have WIS look up the mechanical fault code and what parameters set that code, that will be your best diagnostic path. If not I can look it up after work
. IATs are fine so no worrying there. For reference my car at 60mph at WOT with your mods makes just a hair over 15 psi (I'm also at sea level).



edit: looked up thread history and I had errors via icarsoft
-B37 (accelerator pedal sensor): Signal 1/short circuit to positive/potentiometer above maximum value (P0123)
-The CAN data from control module Motor electronics is invalid or unreasonable (Accelerator pedal position)
-ESP Electronic Stability Program Control
Last edited by Amir_AMG; Jan 19, 2021 at 05:37 PM.
edit: looked up thread history and I had errors via icarsoft
-B37 (accelerator pedal sensor): Signal 1/short circuit to positive/potentiometer above maximum value (P0123)
-The CAN data from control module Motor electronics is invalid or unreasonable (Accelerator pedal position)
-ESP Electronic Stability Program Control
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Select the 113 engine
#2-#4 have fault codes listed, but no P0606
Details pulled from a code scan in DAS>ME
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Select the 113 engine
#2-#4 have fault codes listed, but no P0606
Details pulled from a code scan in DAS>ME
Thanks a ton for taking the time to look into it for me. I'll try what you suggested tomorrow and see if there is a way to "investigate further".
I talked to DTK today, he said he has seen similar behavior with tune issues before. Apparently it can be a fueling issues. He is going to make a tune for me and see if he can correct it. We'll see.




https://stern-freunde.de/forum/thread/9125-esp-defekt/
https://stern-freunde.de/forum/thread/9125-esp-defekt/
I had changed out my IAT sensor (2000 miles ago) because I had a new one the previous owner gave me and figured why not? Maybe I'll swap in my old one(yes I save old useless junk) and give it a go!
Unfortunately it is raining really bad here so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to test it. Thanks for the idea!
I had changed out my IAT sensor (2000 miles ago) because I had a new one the previous owner gave me and figured why not? Maybe I'll swap in my old one(yes I save old useless junk) and give it a go!
Unfortunately it is raining really bad here so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to test it. Thanks for the idea!
https://stern-freunde.de/forum/thread/9125-esp-defekt/
Still the same behavior and the same codes...

I'm hoping DTK can do something with the tune, he said he might have something tomorrow.
From what I'm reading it sounds like our MAP sensors are touchy and anything over like 15 lbs of boost can create an overboost situation and put the car into limp mode.
Since the issue only started happening since it got cold out and I've never driven the car in the cold(under 40 F) since I got it tune... Maybe it is just running higher boost and causing map sensor issues?
Who knows... I'll let you know once I get the tune from DTK in.
So I was doing more Googling for the stupid issue I was having and happened upon this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...er-gear-s.html
I was reading through his thread and found out his issue was related to his FTP 3" intake collapsing in on itself.
I thought to myself... I'm pretty sure the FTP and VRP intakes are basically the same. So I ran out to my car, removed the silicone tubes that connected to the end of the intake/radiator air inlet.
Then I proceeded to take the car for a drive and beat on it. OH MY GOSH it is an ANIMAL now.
So essentially what was happening was at WOT throttle the car was pulling in so much air that it was collapsing/closing off the silicone tubes on the end essentially starving the car of air.
For those of you who helped me try a million different things before this. THANK YOU. Especially GinDistiller, you're the best.




I'm going to send an email to VRP and see if they have a solution for the issue... Otherwise I may need to make a cautionary post to those with the VRP intake.
If you where on the dyno and the tubes where replaced so there was no issue, I bet with and with out the intake set up would show a big horse power difference....
towards more power with no intake.
So I was doing more Googling for the stupid issue I was having and happened upon this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/w211-amg/...er-gear-s.html
I was reading through his thread and found out his issue was related to his FTP 3" intake collapsing in on itself.
I thought to myself... I'm pretty sure the FTP and VRP intakes are basically the same. So I ran out to my car, removed the silicone tubes that connected to the end of the intake/radiator air inlet.
Then I proceeded to take the car for a drive and beat on it. OH MY GOSH it is an ANIMAL now.
So essentially what was happening was at WOT throttle the car was pulling in so much air that it was collapsing/closing off the silicone tubes on the end essentially starving the car of air.
For those of you who helped me try a million different things before this. THANK YOU. Especially GinDistiller, you're the best.






