T....I drove that engine on the street almost every day !! I broke valve train parts like crazy and I don't know why because I only spun it to 8,500 rpm all the time LOL
One time when racing I tripped the lights at 9,000 rpm !!! Being a Chevy I just didn't care and had more fun then any car I ever had.

 

Yeah that RPM is crazy. Mine was never built for that. Just a good cruiser but I have driven it several hours away.

 

So looking into top mounts right now but they will call for a total fuel and nitrous do over for everything to fit correctly. Not sure what to do at this point but have come to the relization that in order to run at least 165mph at the next event I would need at least 100 -125hp more power to push the car there.
The transmission is really holding me back as well and an 8HP would do wonders but that would really be a project.

 

So scrapped the top mount idea and made some belt tension improvements and now making 16.5-17lb's of boost peak that drops to 14.5-15lbs up top so leaving it alone.Thats a 1-1.5lb improvement in boost at the top end !! I also did do some nitrous work and upped the horsepower to 200. I found out quickly that my solenoids could not flow enough to make more than 150hp. They only had a .078 orfice and could not keep up with two #52 nos jets "total .102 hole size" so I installed larger NOS solenoid that can flow 250hp.
Having a real hard time tuning on the street as the traction control is pulling all the timing and then shutting the throttle closed 60% according to the data logger at 110-120mph with unbelievable tire spin up top that I have never experienced before. Crazy torque !! Any temperatures below 60 degrees and no sun on the road for tire heat are useless and even my nitrous controller set on 2 second ramp up doesn't help when its all in at 100%
So horsepower should be at 800 to the tires and a little over 900 flywheel and this should pick up at least 4mph by how strong the car pulls now so only time will tell I guess.

 

Back in the day, I used to follow Prudhomme,(the Snake and the Mongoose Tom McEwen) I met him years later. Big Daddy Garlits, John Force. I always wondered what they thought about most. I guess all racers have that gear head attitude in common.

 

Passes the time for sure !!

 

Nitrous sorted out and new Tony tune corrected a lot as well so all set with that.
Focused on the driveshaft right now. Have had some bad experiences with damaged drive shafts in other cars and don't know what the limit is of our shafts especially with the 3.06 gears I have. So instead of spending 2,500-3,000.00 for a custom shaft, I have decided to have it Cryogenic treated and also replace the soft center section bracket with the VRP setup and the harder bushings deal to keep things nice and stable. For sure a cheaper route and since I know of no one that ever broke a shaft I should pretty safe doing it this way, plus already have the drive shaft safety loop installed.

 

So here is a long winded ordeal that had some strange out comes.
So my 82mm throttle body always would throw idle speed codes and others like p0505,p0507,p1580 and so on. I would just clear the code only because I couldn't stand seeing the MIL light on but car always ran perfect either way. So when I went to the Helcat 92mm like was raved about and told it had no issues,it would throw idle air speed P0505 and 202A air leak detected. Now,yet again,the car always ran perfect with the light on so this was no big deal but...come emission testing time, this was an issue for sure. So after spraying a few gallons of carb cleaner !! on every gasket while engine running and smoke testing this engine for 20 min. straight pressureizing the engine intake system many many times,there is no leak to be found and the light would come on within 15-20 miles. This was not good because I could not even set my monitors to even go and get the test done so I was kinda screwed a bit with this. So I decided to install my old 78mm throttle body,or 80 as it's called, back on with my adapter set up I made and talked about a few posts back and bingo, no light and all monitors set VERY quickly. The Hellcat in no way would allow the monitors to come close to setting green unless I would drive almost 70 miles and again by that time the MIL light was on long before the 70 miles.Why ?? I tested this so many times I was sick of waisting good race fuel !!
So what I did was put the 80mm on,drove the car,set the monitors quickly,pulled off the 80,put on the 92 ,did not do any reset at all,just put it on, and all was good for almost a WEEK of driving. But I do have a pending p0505 code that will probably come up soon but regardless I have plenty of time in between the monitors setting and the MIL coming on so I'm good with that and can roll right threw the test no problem.
It's almost like I tricked the ECU into thinking the throttle body was smaller and and is why it took a long time for it to see this and decide to throw a generic "leak" code for what ever reason. Could my 92 Hellcat be bad or maybe just a tiny little bit out of range to make the ECU have a small fit over it ? All the testing I have done shows TPS signals and O-2 readings and idle rpm to be right where they should be.I would hate to spend another 300.00 on another 92 for the same results. Plus they are real hard to find new these days from Dodge and VRP want's 500.00 for one.
My rant is over........

 

That is interesting results. You’re always sticking with it for sure!

 

That's because I am "stuck" with it LOL !

 

Replace “Bandaid” with MB…

 

Just swapped over again and for sure this 92 either is not being liked by the ECU or it is just bad in general and our ECU see's this as an issue.
Keeps throwing a idle air speed codes,small leak. Possible internal leak past the butter fly shaft but smoke test didn't show it.
So glad I made the adapter plate in case something like this happened LOL

 

Fixed. New tune took care of the issue....so far, thanks to Tony !!

 

So the hellcat 92 tb is doing well now, It was just the tune to get it straightened out?

 

Well...sort of. After some major investivgative work I had him "shut off" the ECU's ability to "see" the issue between the throttle body and th ECU. So now there is no more issue from the throttle body acording to the ECU. Almost like shutting off thr rear oO2 sensors when you have long tubes. The ECU no longer "see's" that anything is wrong even though there could be/is and stays happy.

 

Ah I see. Seems like it the ECU couldn’t see the TB it wouldn’t work at all or properly. That’s interesting.

But as I’ve said before I’m not mechanic, I’m just a body man. lol.

 

I will have to pick your brain soon T on doing rocker panel replacements on my 2016 Expedition. They are starting to rust out and I will need to fix as simply as possible with the replacement panels.

 

Rust?…You're on the east coast? If so I didn’t remember that.

Sure thing. Let me know.

 

Gary sent you a pm. Hope it all works out.

 

Rockers are in ! I spliced them in from the rear doors forward and they came out decent. Was tough to do because I couldn't find an exact match of the factory rocker so the angles are a little off...hard to explain but they are fine and all painted up. Used that bonding epoxy like you said and that worked great and the smell of the Bondo brought back memory's of my body work days !!

 

Sounds good! Glad it worked out for you. Yeah you never forget the smell of those chemicals. lol.

 

Just so everyone knows Mercedes Swap Shop found a way to eliminate all the big throttle body problems guys have with a new tune program. 99Lightning just let me know and it looks real promising.
It for the bigger and really big ,93mm and up throttle body's. This has been a real pain for our platform for many many years with no real "blanket" fix.

 

You really need to join the Facebook groups!

 

LOL I have no social media accounts at all ,never have. For sure could have helped having access with it in certain situations but never had any.

 

I'll say this, it could be interesting to see your build compared to the others there. Most in the groups are doing the typical adding boost, headers, intercooler upgrade (top mounts/gutting) but little to none doing internals and nitrous.