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Just finished another set of heads and had them flowed. Got real crazy with this set and flowed them a couple times in testing and made 51 cfm over the first set on the car. Flows 316 cfm compared to 265 cfm on the last set at .400 lift. I took a spare head that was ported and then drilled holes all over the runners to see just how much material could be removed without busting through anywhere.
Stock heads flowed 225 cfm at .400 so real happy with the results.
New record for myself at my roll race event. New tune from Tony and picked up 5mph which is fantastic. The air was real good so that made a big difference.
The car went 156 mph and 162 mph. The 162 is from me going past the finish line to another marker that I always run to just to get maximum speed ...just for myself and fun.
Best runs before where 151 and 156
I must be doing something right because there was another E55,same year, with same pulley stack,top mount tanks and the other usual stuff and he ran 133-134 I believe
Finishing up the second set of heads with many trips to the machine shop and flow bench. Cutting back on spring pressure on the intakes to free up a little power and did some radius cutting on exhaust valves and back cutting on the intakes. The flow bench tech said my exhaust ports flowed ok but where real "noisy" so I smoothed out the runners even more and then had them coated by JCM Machine with thermal barrier coating to keep the heat from soaking into the heads just like the heads on the car now.
Really want to change cams but I'm really leary of trying to make more power with out any proven results to sell me on so still held up with that.
Some calculations from some experienced racers show I need at least 50-75hp and 4-5 mph to push me to my new goal of 160 mph at my roll race event and looks like I will be using 5th gear at the end of the run and will need more torque for sure.
Any one with Cat Cams experience and Dyno information as well. Right now looks like sticking with the stock cams can still give me even more power but thinking cams would help but no one I can find runs nor Dyno tested them. Even with the Race IQ I have found no legit Dyno tests done but I would think a cam change would make a big increase in power over stock.
So thinking with a 150 hit of Nitrous , currently 100 hp, that would put me at 750 hp to the wheels and give me the 4-5 mph "I hope" to get me to 160 mph at the next race.
Right now I am currently at 156 mph but since I will have to use 5th gear this year, since I ran out of rpm at 156, I think I will need even more horse power to pull me through the top end using 5th"OD" now. Any input ??
Guy's have been messaging me about how the Ferrea valve locks are holding up with our factory valves.
Short answer...perfect,and everything looks good so if you are thinking about going down this road no worrys.
So another attempt at 160 failed but was fun none the less. Managed 157.8....158 I will claim LOL
My last best run was in the heat waiting for one hour while the fixed the timing lights ..blaa. Air temps started at 45* and ended the day at 69*
Max boost 13.5lbs and goes through the end at 12 lb's , the elevation is rough for sure. ait started at 110* and minimum was 59* with a max of 71* so real good with that.
Engine comes out in November for a new set of cylinder heads,rod bolts and oil pump that's been modded for the stupid whine noise so we will see.
Had some spare time on my hands so did what every normal car guy does….yank the trans and engine out for some mods !!
So picked up a new TCU from Troy that is called the Sequential TCM that has instant up shifts with no delay from the paddles and has full pressure.
Love it but since I will be making more power this year I am adding one extra clutch in 4th and 5th gear clutch packs,only use those gears when roll racing, and running them a little tighter as per Troys recommendation to accommodate the faster shift times of the TCM. Had to mess around with the clutch’s and snap rings but in the end well worth the extra piece of mind and more holding capacity for sure.
The smaller drum is forth gear.
The drum with shaft is third and I also had it Cryogenic treated for strength since it is a known weak point when making more power. One extra clutch as well.
Next will be the engine….ya know cause that’s what you do when winter roles around lol !!
So what I am trying to do ,painstakingly, is to get my clearance exactly where I want it.
The reason is the new TCM shifts VERY VERY fast and we need the clutch pack to “come on” very fast with no delay since 3-4 shift are the only clutch to clutch shift.
You can read all of this stuff on Troys web site.
Cylinder walls look great and head gasket seal as well. Just need to swap over valve springs to new heads. The new heads flow 40+ cam more than these that where ported already so a big improvement for sure.
Not sure if anyone really follows these posts but I will keep going until you guys had enough lol
So I have found that since running higher spring pressure that the rocker arm shaft saddles are showing a little more wear than wanted so I opened the feed holes and chamfered the holes which I had done before but went a little more this time. I think a WPC treatment would really help but then I have to send cams to California for the process and don’t really want to do that this time of year and the chance of damage to the cams.
Also found that the piston rings could not handle the pressures and where really worn out so cleaning up the bores and going with Tool Steel Nitrite upper rings and Napier 2nd rings and they should hold up to far more pressure/abuse……..I hope !!
Block will be back to me on Monday.
Ok I will !
So the bores where not that bad so that’s great. Pistons are getting coated in PC-9 from Swain Tech Coating,and really good anti friction coating, and will be a little thicker to keep piston a tad tighter in the piston bore.
With the Tool Steel rings I should be able to spray it harder and make more power in the end and not hurt anything again,not that it wasnt running perfect before but would soon start showing signs of oil burning Im sure. Bearings also look like they came right out of the box.
Please keep posting about your project. I find that we can all learn from others. I read all I can here even though some of the info I may not understand. It’s informative for sure. I need to update my thread also.
I would be concerned also about shipping this time of year. That would be horrible to lose the parts or have them damaged during shipping!
Thanks T....
Yea I am always buying/selling and stuff has been taking for ever....weeks to make a 5 day trip.
And I have lost stuff and had to refund guys money because who knows where it ended up !! When shipping things that are valubale you can insure it but an M113k block shipped to accross the country and back to have work done.....loosing that would be devistating !!!
Nice work OP. Your efforts at liners and proper internals.... Love it.
I’m curious as to what you gain with heads that flow as much more as you have done. The engine is force fed. Most of us (who are lazy) up the boost and increase cooling.
What are you winding the engine up to? I ask as if not wound to a telephone number; is the additional seat pressure and accompanying wear to valvetrain components due to beehive springs needed? Even 20 pounds of boost via the supercharger won’t make valve float as we see in Diseasels fitted with an exhaust brake. Yes, different animals but both generally run low RPM’s.
It sure seems like at some point OEM cats have to become a restriction.
Years ago we fitted a friend’s Brabus K8 with long tube headers, high flow cats with a nice cross over pipe. Seat of the pants improvement.
I believe all internals in his engine to be stock with whatever manner of bigger pulley Brabus fit to it. Lots of miles. It rips. Makes Jay giggle.
Keep us up on how the transmission works. Have you ever had a failure in the box?
Hey ohn,
6,800 rpm is my shift point as it was making peak power at 6,400 on the Dyno so I shift higher to keep it in it's best pulling range.
Remember camshafts are funny things. You can have the same duration and lift on two diferent cams but one is very agressive in opening and closing the valves so you need more pressure, plus, the weight of the valves will make a difference. And really we are only talking 10-15lbs more than stock so no biggie at all. These engines have been known to chew up the cam saddles on bone stock enges aswell.
Yes the cats have been on my my mind. I actually made removable down pipes with V-Band clamps and can swap the cats in and out in less than an hour including getting the car jacked up.I never run it with out cats because I just can't stand the smell !! LOL Gets in your clothes and everything especially with race fuel ! My goal was to have a very fast car WITH cats but may have to take them off for next race and see what she does.
No failure with trans just wanted to tighten the packs up and add one extra clutch in 3rd and 4rth.
My goal was to go as fast as possible with a stock blower.If the car never had one I for sure would have bought a Weistec.
I am also custom making a snout right now for the stock blower to accept the Hellcat throttle body so going from a 82 to a 92 and since I worry about drivability issues or any issue throttle body related I will have an adapter plate to go right back to stock throttle body if needed for testeing with out pulling blower every time. I will post pictures very soon with rehoned cylinder block as well.
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