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For the W211 AMG: We manufacture both front “Upper control arm” adjusters along with “Lower arm” adjusters.
1. Upper ‘A’ ARM ADJUSTMENT: #502216-2J $380(Both Sides) ● Both Camber and also Caster adjustable. ● Not welded, fabricated arms but replacement inner bushes allowing to retain the strength / security of the OEM / Factory alloy arms. ● Bush extraction tool included - fit without need for arm removal.
2. LOWER ARM ADJUSTMENT: #502216K $480(Both Sides). ● Both Camber and Caster adjustable. ● Replaces also the ‘4’ Front highest wearing bushes. ● Easy access to adjust (single wrench - ultimate direct on alignment rack under load). ● Lower arm adjustment also available “Camber Only” #502216-1i $345 (Both Sides).
NOTE:When adjusting to resolve “premature excess inner edge wear” UPPER ARMS reduce important clearance top of tire to outer fender. LOWER ARMS Retain this clearance.
REAR SUSPENSION (Also all W211 incl AMG)
Lower arm Camber (& Extra Toe to compensate for addition of rear Camber adjustment) AIRMATIC #502526K $480 COIL SUSP. #502126-1K $480
ALL K-MAC FRONT & REAR ADJUSTER KITS SPECIALLY DESIGNED SO NO NEED FOR SPECIAL TOOLS OR TIME CONSUMING CONTROL ARM REMOVAL.
ALSO MANUFACTURE:
UPRATED BUSHINGS - For the '6' Rear Multi link arms - Tauter response and less rear end flex, twitch, loss of traction. Especially when applying power to lane change / overtake #502528K $480
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
We manufacture both front “Upper control arm” adjusters along with “Lower arm” adjusters.
1. Upper ‘A’ ARM ADJUSTMENT: #502216-2J $380(Both Sides)
● Both Camber and also Caster adjustable.
● Not welded, fabricated arms but replacement inner bushes allowing to retain the strength / security of the OEM / Factory alloy arms.
● Bush extraction tool included - fit without need for arm removal.
2. LOWER ARM ADJUSTMENT: #502216K $480(Both Sides).
● Both Camber and Caster adjustable.
● Replaces also the ‘4’ Front highest wearing bushes.
● Easy access to adjust (single wrench - ultimate direct on alignment rack under load).
● Lower arm adjustment also available “Camber Only” #502216-1i $345 (Both Sides).
NOTE:When adjusting to resolve “premature excess inner edge wear” UPPER ARMS reduce important clearance top of tire to outer fender. LOWER ARMS Retain this clearance.
AUDI to VOLVO - K-MAC Experience Of Resolving OEM Suspension Shortcomings Since 1964 !
I just replaced all ball joints and bushings and went for an alignment and of course it's too negative. Thanks for the explanation kmac. I will purchase the camber only kit for $345.
For the front end, the KMac bushings work quite well. I installed the lower bushings on my car and I recommend them. One of the better products out there for the front end of our Mercedes.
Kevin from KMac responds rapidly to emails but you have to take into account the difference in time and date zones. I found him very easy to work with.
I have to say the F1 Fabrication Upper Camber Control Arms work well also. I dialed in my alignment after following “Birdwell’s” instruction after going to 3 shops that failed one after another! I also had to adjust the “Crash Bolts” to the max to correct a pull to the right, but after using Birdwells advice (ie-using thin nylon rope held by Jack stands measured to an exact length from each wheel center whilst taking into account the reduction in “Track Width” which was 9mm for my 07’E63 and then measuring the difference of measurement from the front- vs- rear wheel rim from that rope determines each wheels toe-in while using a magnetic angle finder to determine Camber), I got it dialed in perfectly! I had thought I could correct some of the pull previously by adjusting the Camber(less negative on right to correct pull from right?), but that led to more troubles. In the end I set up the camber as closely as possible (ie- within 0.04 degree difference on a garage floor with each wheel leveled by a Floating Floor Laser level using linoleum/magazines/square plywood to get each wheel as level a possible!). I originally set the Camber to about -1 degree. I even tried to correct pull with them in the very beginning, but I will lay that misconception to rest, try to set them as closely as possible. Correct pull by starting with Crash Bolts in the torque arms then the AirSpring Arms. My setting the Camber on the F1 Fabs to -1 degree left me with very light steering. I drove that way for perhaps a year before I recently got around to giving it another try and set them to -1.7 degree each side and it did tighten up the steering such that wondering is less apt to occur as it did previously!
On the other hand, a couple years after doing the front end, a small example as shown above, once the Rear Main Seal blew out causing plumes of smoke occurring after the mist of oil leaking from the Tranny Case hit my exhaust, I did the marathon build of the entire rear end including every rubber bushing as well as the Drive Shaft Disc’s and intermediate Bushing, all Subframe Mounts, 3.06 Final Drive Ratio Gears with new M-Factory LSD! I also did the Upper Rear Control Arm Bushings replaced with KMAC Bushings which do NOT inhibit one from fully torquing down each Arm until the rear is “weighted” because they are urethane as compared to being rubber and I was able to do that whilst the Subframe was lowered away from the underside of my car, much easier! How anyone can wait until fully “loading” the rear using OEM Rubber Upper Control Arm Bushings seems impossible as you cannot get a wrench on those inner bolts without the Subframe being lowered! The Lower Rear Torque Arms are New with newly installed bushings at the wheel carrier and UPD Tow Arms! First off was to remove the Rear Rotors rusted to the Hubs! Expanded View of my attempt at removing the Rusted Rear Rotors from the Hubs! However, notice the improper placement of the “gorrilla bar” within the arms of the 3 bar puller! The first Picture is what was successful as far as placement! Installing New rear Subframe Mount View of the New Subframe Mounts with OEM Control Arm (Old) Bushings. A “Before” View! After View of the Newly installed and appropriately spaced within each arm KMAC PolyUrethane Bushings in each end of the Control Arms! Installing these allowed me to be able to torque them down and then check the track of the Wheel Carrier to make sure the spacing was spot on, as compared to having to wait until the car was fully weighted before doing so, which would be nearly impossible! I definitely had to make a couple adjustments with my extraction tool BTW! Close-Up view of the KMAC (OEM Replacement) Bushings for the Rear Control Arms. Notice the Shiny metal surrounding each bushing! Money Shot of the Final Install before the rotors and Calipers! Notice that none of the Rear AirSpring Arm Bolts are tightened just yet.
ordered my front and rear kmac camber and caster kits. tired of these other aftermarket solutions that have a never ending list of problems for me. the one thing is...the front camber/caster being as they are the inner upper A arm bushing i'm sure will be a frustration for my alignment tech.
Yeah, in order to get to those bolts on each side, you need small hands to get a wrench in there on the firewall sides. A Major PIA to have to adjust each time in comparison to the F1 Fabrications Heim Joints which I can do in 15 minutes, not including alignment of course!
Also ordered KMAC bushings and F1 fabrication front upper control arm
I have KMAC front and rear bushings ready to go and am waiting for the F1 Fabrication front upper control arm ("CAMBER KING") which seems to be taking forever. Car is a 2002 CLK55, I use the string and ruler method for wheel alignment you mention above. I would think that a pull to the right is most likely your toe setting. I know you can get asymmetric camber thrust from mismatched camber but toe seems more likely to me.
If you’re getting KMac’s for both front and rear, then why are also getting the F1 Upper Camber Arms? Seems redundant? Unless, of course, you are getting KMac to replace the bushings in the Air Spring Arm? I don’t recall them offering them but it wouldn’t surprise me if they did! I would have done ‘‘em if they had ‘em!
Doing KMAC lowers in the front for camber and caster control; need more front camber and doing slight lowering; I know lowering causes camber more negative camber (which I want) but I'm concerned about fender clearance. I want to use the upper control arm to control where the top of the wheel is and hopefully be able to move it in a little from the top edge of the fender. This is a 208 chassis CLK55 so no air springs, switching to H&R springs. Will primarily be a track car.
I have KMAC front and rear bushings ready to go and am waiting for the F1 Fabrication front upper control arm ("CAMBER KING") which seems to be taking forever. Car is a 2002 CLK55, I use the string and ruler method for wheel alignment you mention above. I would think that a pull to the right is most likely your toe setting. I know you can get asymmetric camber thrust from mismatched camber but toe seems more likely to me.
If you were referring to my pull to the right, no it most certainly was NOT the front Toe setting as that primarily is the only thing all “Alignment Shops” focus on. They are idiots, at least in my case, when it came to adjusting anything else. Those “Hunter” Alignment machines only, seemingly, assist with Toe Setting. I went to 3 shops. The 3rd one even tried to correct my pull to the right by adjusting my Brand New UPD Toe Arms by using a Universal Wrench, instead of a 24mm Wrench, and marred the _ _ _ T out of my Passenger Side Arm by adjusting it some +4mm (6mm total)! Crazy! It was only then when I finally took it upon myself using bbirdwell’s string method, that I only perhaps improved upon by using Calipers to measure the difference between the front and rear of the Wheel Rim after Centering and measuring from the Hubs all around.
I started with the Rear and set the Toe to 2mm of Toe-in per side. Mind you, I only aligned after getting the car absolutely Level using a Floor Laser Tool to make sure each corner was just right. Getting the front and Rear Air Springs set to the right heights is a real PITA, but absolutely necessary! Rear was +0.9 Degree (IIRC?) and front was +4 degree (IIRC?) as I, for one, do not like to intentionally lower the suspension! Also using the STAR/Xentry>Steering to adjust the wheel back to “0” after each front Toe Adjustment really helped me dial-in the Alignment! And using a Magnetic Angle Finder mounted to the rotors made adjusting Camber much easier then trying to use MATH!
For the Pull, I started with using the Crash Bolts in each of the Torque Arms and that helped. Then I inserted one into the Passenger Air Spring Arm using the OEM Adjustment Chart from Star, and that further helped but it wasn’t until the install of the 4th into the driver side Air Spring Arm when I actually experienced the pull to the Left! So I did away with that one, did a “final” alignment dialing-in the Camber slightly and “Voila!” I somehow Nailed It! It took me 3 years on and off, but I finally fixed it myself! Only thing was, the steering was a little too light as initially I had set the front Camber to around -1degree each side. But it was running dead straight for the first time ever, so I was very apprehensive about messing with it!
It wasn’t until one of the F1 Fabrication Upper Camber Arm Heim Joints had failed, fortunately realized in a parking Lot so I was able to Stop Immediately, go home and get my Jack to fix it right there in the Golf Driving Range Parking Lot and be on my way. However it was only a Temporary Fix until I got the New Heim Joints (I ordered 3!). So it was then when I decided to simply do 2 revolutions inward on the Heim Joints to adjust the Camber on each side closer to -1.7 degree and now it’s set just right as it always should have been! Perfect!
@E63007 I appreciate the compliment and I very much appreciate the improvements you made on my method. I will incorporate your input on my car the next time I perform suspension work.
Many thanks!
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