07 e63 P2187 code
I did some basic troubleshooting. The idle is not erratic (I can feel the engine in the cabin but that goes away once the car warms up. Probably just old hydraulic fluid in the motor mounts?) and unplugging the MAF sensors did not result in a noticeable change in the idle. I removed the air filter housing, the OEM filters and charcoal filters were clean, the boxes were clean. I swapped the MAF sensors between the two banks and went for a little drive. The code did not change to read too lean at idle bank 2. Do I need to clear the first code before the code will swap to an idle lean condition on bank 2? Or would the computer automatically clear the code for the idle lean condition in bank 1 and start showing a lean condition in bank 2? Is there any other basic troubleshooting I can do to verify what the problem could be before I spend $500 on a set of ROW airboxes from FCP Euro? And I have seen confirmation on 10+ year old threads that replacing the intake manifold gasket can also solve this issue because they can sometimes leak air into the cylinder banks and cause a lean condition. Can I diagnose this without tearing apart the intake manifold?
My coworker did a smoke test and found no vacuum or gasket leaks. He plugged in his much-better-than-mine OBDII scanner which picked up a code for a secondary air injection pump having a stuck valve. He cleared the codes and the CEL went away. I beat the **** out of the car on the way home and the CEL hasn't come back on. I will update if it does
This was a few days ago. The engine passed a smoke test a few short weeks ago. The car DID recently have the PCV valve replaced, as well as the intake manifold gaskets due to an issue where the original PCV valve failed, flooded cylinder 4 and hydrolocked the engine. The engine survived, but unless my car is feeling suicidal it seems unlikely that it is the PCV valve since the RPMs are not jittery and do not rise when I pull the dipstick.
My conclusion, with the assistant of an acquaintance that was the shop foreman at a Mercedes dealer, is that the intake manifold center plate must be corroding. As it is well known, those are made of magnesium which corrodes on contact with oil. Because my car had the PCV valve fail spectacularly, it was probably sucking oil into the intake for a while before the near-catastrophic event with the hydrolocking... So I ordered a new aluminum intake manifold center plate from RMT, and just incase the new PCV valve was in fact bad, I got a new one of those as well. May as well, since they're not terribly expensive. When the parts arrive and I have them installed, I will update this post again with results and pictures.
P.S. The CEL randomly went away on the drive home from work. To be sure that I wasn't seeing things and the CEL bulb didn't burn out, I scanned the module again. The P2187 still shows up in regular scans, but the status of the P0745 and P2091 have been changed to "NOT PRESENT" in all-module scans, so maybe the codes are gone for real? I don't believe that the car is fixed. I'm going to have my coworker with the better-than-mine OBDII scanner scan my car, and change the intake manifold center plate anyways. It's already on its' way so no point in stuffing it in the closet once it gets here.
So to recap my experience here, for future reference:
Concern
Check Engine Light on intermittently, throwing code P2187 idle too lean bank 1. Also accompanied by P0745 and P2091, which BlueDriver described as "idle too lean" but the code reports turn up a cam position sensor and transmission control solenoid. I am not sure how they are related to, or a byproduct of running lean.
Diagnosis
I read the live data and confirmed that bank 1 was running a little bit lean. The data was within acceptable specs, but not matching bank 2. I unplugged the MAF sensors, code did not go away. I swapped the MAF sensors between the two banks, the code did not follow. I had a smoke test run and did not notice any vacuum leaks. Pulling the oil dipstick and a vacuum could be felt and a "gurgle" noise could be heard. Concluded that it must be the intake manifold center mount.
Repair
Intake manifold center mount replaced, as well as the intake manifold gaskets (which had to be replaced anyways with the intake manifold off) as well as the PCV valve.
Conclusion
This is really ambiguous because apparently the intake manifold center mount was fine, but it's also not running lean anymore, so... *shrug*
I will update this post if the CEL comes back or it starts running lean again, but I have to admit that it's probably not super useful that I wasn't able to pinpoint the exact failure point.
Throttles in the new intake manifold center mount
Look at all that oil in the air passageways, yum! Always a good idea to keep those good and lubricated so that air can easily move into the cylinders!
old mount
old mount
As you can see, very minimal lean condition to start with. This may have been very tricky to diagnose from the beginning without tearing stuff all apart anyways.
As for the Codes, yes they must be cleared with STAR/Xentry as they don’t just “reset”, yeah that’s a big money maker for the Stealerships? It’s worth getting your own STAR/Xentry as one can’t even replace a shock or any suspension part without deflating the Airmatic beforehand!
Intake Manifold removed to be rebuilt by RMT
Carefully cutting away the PCV Hose without damaging its Ring Seal which the hose is vacuum sealed over!
On the right is the Crank Side fitting of the PCV Valve already removed from its Hose to which the 1” Heater Hose perfectly fits over secured by an Oetiker Clamp once installed.
I got some extra 1” hose with natural bends to run from the Crank to the PCV. I used that with 1 or 2 elbow fittings as a straight run to the PCV is nearly impossible, so it was a bit of a puzzle!
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As for the Codes, yes they must be cleared with STAR/Xentry as they don’t just “reset”, yeah that’s a big money maker for the Stealerships? It’s worth getting your own STAR/Xentry as one can’t even replace a shock or any suspension part without deflating the Airmatic beforehand!
Intake Manifold removed to be rebuilt by RMT
Carefully cutting away the PCV Hose without damaging its Ring Seal which the hose is vacuum sealed over!
On the right is the Crank Side fitting of the PCV Valve already removed from its Hose to which the 1” Heater Hose perfectly fits over secured by an Oetiker Clamp once installed.
I got some extra 1” hose with natural bends to run from the Crank to the PCV. I used that with 1 or 2 elbow fittings as a straight run to the PCV is nearly impossible, so it was a bit of a puzzle!









