If so, did you do it yourself. How easy/hard was it?

If you had it installed, how much were you charged to have the service done?

How much overall bass response did you get once it was complete?

Thanks,
Gareth

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is dynamat?

Dynamat is a sound insulating stick-on material about 3 millimeters thick.

I have had most of my trunk Dynamatted, but can't compare bass response/to pre Dynamatted state, as the sub install was performed contemporaneously. If anyone has this oportunity, please get a SPL meter and test on C weighting.

I STILL have significant rattle from the plastic spare tire wheel well. Now, I understand the installer Dynamatted the floor of the whell well and then formed the fiberglass enclosure for the JL dub 6-12" sub. They are thinging of taking off the plastic wheel well cover and Dynamatting the metal exterior floor of the well before reinstalling the plastic cover. Anyone with similar issues/fix?

Thank you very much

Fury

good explanation of dynamat here:

Dynamat for the Trunk

Perfect, Thanks guys I got it now

the cover to my spare tire rattles a little bit and resonates when the sub engages. i need to minimize that. dynamat is one possible solution, but i'm wondering if i need to do something else to take care of this

1) change from a downward sub to a directionaly upward pointing sub?
2) add strength to the spare tire cover?

also trying to dial in and tighten up the bass with respect to the rest of the car's speakers.

Hi Gareth,

What sub do you have and how is it currently installed, please?

I think the something else you noted above is likely necessary, to co,pletely take care of the problem. Even many of waves are meters long, in large part, nodes may be achieveable by positional change, but my guess is the SPL is just too great for positional change in the sub to be overcome.

I called Dynamat and they, as I had surmised, suggested removing the plastic cover from the spare well and either decoupling it by Dynamat Extrerme or better coupling by some other technique.

We'll see.

Thank you very uch

Fury

i have a 10" mobile reference aurasound subwoofer (www.aurasound.com) installed in a .65 cubic feet enclosure. the sealed enclosure is located in the trunk, poined downward, and attached to the back of the back seats on the right side.

what sub do you have, and is your bass tight/focused or boomy? how would you qualify it?

I have the 12 inch JL W6-bass is very focused, but overdriven, at the moment. Definite thumbs for the capability of the matched pair. Other issues still remain.

Thank you very much

Fury

hmmm...i'm wondering if i should get another sub as well (matched pair)? also wondering if i should point the sub upward or at an angle (different closure, possibly a wedge) so that it does not direct the bass at the spare cover causing additional resonance from that...

Space and cancellation may be considerations if you add a second sub. I'll tell ya, the punch & accuracy from the combo I have in this vehicle is Very satisfactory (not my dual 12 Sonotube 5 feet high with a Crown amp-tuned to 17hz like in my theater room, mind you).

I can't put a spare tire in the well and have trunk rattle, but I can live with the former and spmehoe aught to correct the latter. Now that I have decreased the gain, the rattle in all but the most demanding and highest volumes passages is inaudible in the cabin, at least.

Thank you very much

Fury