Hey guys,

Has anyone else experienced a violent shaking at low speeds for w212 E63 S models? This is currently happening in my 2014 e63 S 4matic, of course I've taken it in for service only to have them tell me there's nothing they can do because it doesn't happen consistently and therefore they can't diagnose.

To explain I'll be driving normally in comfort/eco mode and the car will shake like hell while accelerating. Another time while turning, it will shake and then not even respond to throttle at all, leaving me stuck at the intersection for a few seconds. It will eventually drive normally again.. A couple of times this happened during higher speeds, 60+ MPH.

This issue does not happen all the time but when it does, it SUCKS.

I tried doing some searches but none of the results seem to match.. After a million tries, I was able to capture on video (see below). Please let me know if this sounds familiar to anyone..

Thanks

 

Haven't seen this reported yet ... Sounds like intake manifold leak vs spark plug problem

What's the next step, is the dealer going to watch your video?

Do you have any modifications to the car, sprint booster? Tune? Exhaust?

 

Does it happen only in comfort/Eco mode?

 

Lmao... Your reaction when you finally got it... Priceless.

This is brutal. I cannot believe it's not throwing a code... Or 6 of them.

I think this car needs to be reflashed.... If it's happening that rarely, it cannot be mechanical.

 

Um it is clear from the vid that what you got was the cold start stutter with the MTC. Look at your engine temp, you will get that every time when the car is cold and it will be at its worse.

This is normal all on the 63 with MTC as it is a characteristic of the wet clutch.

To reduce the effects of the stutter from happening you need to do the following:

• Warm up the car to 1 or 2 bars above 0,prior to taking off
• Be in first gear, ECO, or C mode gets you started in 2nd I believe, there for like any manual car will shake and stutter a bit on take off

As for the car not moving when you give it gas, sadly this is also an issue we have. It happens when you start slowing down to a creep, then when you reapply throttle you get lag where nothing happens

last guess would be spark plugs, as that's the only other thing that causes wild shaking on these cars that has been reported

 

From the video, it does not look like the typical slow speed shaking, you were moving at a decent pace before it started. How old are your plugs?

 

I appreciate the input, thanks guys.. I'm bringing the car to another dealership, hopefully with better luck. For sure I'll mention spark plugs

Until then I'll try warming up longer first to determine if it's a coldstart issue, altho I'm assuming not because the shaking sometimes happens at 75mph, steady speed with no change of velocity.

If I get this figured out, I'll def post updates

No mods or tunes.

So the first dealership told me it was self inflicted (from my driving lol) even though I'm not doing anything but DRIVING.

They saw my video and test drove as well. Two mechanics insisted they determined the problem and reflashed. A day after picking up my car, same story again. Called them back and was told they can't diagnose.



happens in all modes including sport and sport plus. More often at normal driving under freeway speeds. Once in a while at freeway cruising speeds.

Plugs have 14K miles on them. Bought the car brand new last year

 

The more I think of it the more I think this is a bad mct

I disagree with Zod, this is NOT normal and you will get this fixed

My car has never done this even on -20F startups

 

Lol! What a piece of s... car!
You said the tech reset the TCU?
That is pretty bad jerking right here. If you have an OBDII reader just check if any codes are pending. Got to trigger something!

Checking the video again looks like it won't shift 2nd to 3rd for some reasons. So yeah I would agree with Peter, there is an issue with the trans.
You said it happens in manual mode too?

 

At least your dealer did not tell you that it was due to you installing a Radar detector
oh and blaming the remote entry keys not working on the fact that i had a radar installed.

Even though i sent it in 2x for the problem before i even installed the radar, never mind the fact that that car/radar is powered off when the car is locked. Dealers are dealers and always will be,

after 4 new AMG's i shall be shopping for a different brand. all thanks to how the dealership handled my issues

 

I GET THAT SAME THING usually after a cold start, however it's happened at low speed after driving the car 20 minutes before as well.

 

I just picked up the same car...2014 E63S and notice a slight shake when giving it some gas. Any luck finding out what the issue is?

 

and see if a reset will make a difference....
I have started my car in -40 Canada and move it no issues.At times I can drive for about 30 miles and my oil temp is blue.. Was told it was normal boost it and it would go white and stay aroud 200-220 ish as normal.
I had an adaption done on my car and they stated 1 qtr of fluid ...can you have them check your fluid level...when cold this could be an issue with not shifting.
I had my trans done and the very next morning it will not move into reverse...until it was fully warm 2009 e63 took it back they added 2+ qrt of fluid ...Dealer... Yea they are that good...
Reset and check trans fluid....also request full adaption.. I have a post with all that they did on my car....

 

I have the exact same problem when I start in S+ mode! I never had the problem when I started in C mode!

I took the car in for service at 45k (27 miles) and complained of harsh 4-3 and 3-2 downshifts!
The dealer replaced solenoids 2+3 and the car has downshifted smoothly ever since!
However, I still experience the same shaking/vibration when I start in S+ and never happens when I start in C mode!

Iron Sheik

 

As Sunil said, the wet clutch needs to be re adapted

 

lol OP in his video sounded like me towards end of my AMG ownership ..... "goddamn piece of sh*it car"

 

Hi! I have a cls63 and have this problem just like you! I already changed the plugs

 

Mine also does this but even when fully warmed up, I've tried cycling the modes and it will do it in alm of them, it will do it for a few mins randomly then never again for a few days. No codes and immediately turning the car off then on solves this.

 

OP did not resolve thread.

imo, coil pack or trans issue. My best guess would be coil pack.

Oem coil packs are or back order with arrival not expected for months. Good luck out there.

 

Thanks.

Would a coil pack not produce a code ? As when scanned everything is clear as if nothing happened.

 

As this is intermittent, it may be failing (not totally failed as it would be constant) and produce a pending code. If the scanner you are using shows pending codes, that might help. You might also see if you are logging a misfire when it happens or historically. I just replaced cold packs for a friend and a high end scanner told me which cylinders were showing the code and which were showing pending codes as my scanner only showed the actual dead coils, which happened on the first freezing night a few weeks ago.

Figuring out if this is clutch behavior is pretty easy by starting the car cold and in comfort mode. Make sure you can either pull strait ahead or strait back depending on which direction you need to leave when parking. Start the car, let the rpms settle, foot on brake, comfort mode, release foot, DO NOT PRESS GAS....as you roll forward you will feel the car naturally engage the clutch as if its a manual transmission and once you kind of feel the clutch engage, you can slowly press on the gas and goo smoothly. Try that..... Then compare it with a cold start, comfort mode and then just pressing the gas and feeling the slip of the trans as it tries to engage. Then do both of those things in Sport Plus. Notice the differences based on the gear it starts in, first vs second. Lugging any car in second gear will feel terrible. Things you can do to make sure the things you feel are normal for the clutch have been mentioned, fluid level and adaptation. Adaptation is a little iffy in my book because the clutch self adapts when all else is well.

Today as someone mentioned above, I jumped in my cold car that had not been driven more than a mile in weeks, started in comfort mode and drove away with no lugging. Ive learned the nuances of the pedal position vs the tranny behavior. It has never ever lugged other than at start, historically. Have fun and good luck.

 

Thanks I'll try that.

One thing I have noticed (only just bought the car) is on cold mornings when I 1st set off I can put it in drive and then go to set off, the car will rev a little before it engages and then jerk as it sets off?

But when warm it never does it.

Where as the violent shaking under light load low in the rpm only has happened to me 2ce when the engine was up to temp. Hope it's nothing serious.

The car is due it's service and gearbox service so hopefully that will fix it.

 

I looked into this briefly. When it's cold under 45 deg. when in comfort mode it almost acts as a slipping clutch briefly when taking off from a stop in 2nd, if I don't let it warm up . This gets better & better by the minute and is gone pretty quickly once it starts getting driven. I found quite a few threads attributing this to normal mct behavior .

 

Had something similar, when under medium load, low rpm acceleration.
Turned out the gearbox oil was getting too thin.
Changed the oil and all was good.
This gear oil was apparently done at 40K km.

 

One of the most common Mercedes 7G Tronic torque converter problems happens when the vehicle shudders or shakes excessively under load. This condition typically occurs when accelerating from a stop or up an incline.
Cause – This issue is typically caused by either dirt to getting into the TCC solenoid and preventing it from operating properly. Or the clutches inside of the torque converter could be excessively worn, which means you will be able to feel them operate, resulting in the shuttering / shaking feeling. If this is the case, a new 722.9 torque converter will be required.