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It is pretty tight in there; as I recall, I used 1/4-inch drive sockets, with universal joint adapter and extensions when necessary, on the job, and one way or another managed to get everything out. The metric E sockets don't have to be a perfect fit to remove the bolts, so a bit of an angle on them will still work - they don't have to be a totally snug fit.
wow, I'm surprised that you could get it out, that last bolt looks like its blocked by the coil pack itself. I may resort to taking it to a shop
I checked my photobucket for the original pictures and they are gone after all this time.
If you email the dealer parts department with your vin, they can order them for you , if not in stock. My hands are huge, so I just gave in to ripping the back couple off but shorter people may be able to finesse them off. It is a pretty easy job but you will need 1/4" drive, 3/8 and all the little swivel and short extensions you can keep next to you. Taping the swivel joint will help keep it from twisting so easy.
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E63 Biturbo, UPD Cold Air induction kit, UPD performance crank pulley and UPD adjustable rear suspension with ride height adjustment.
Bumping an old thread because what i read there is still two groups as far as which plugs to use.
Group 1: OEM only.
which apparently is part number 004-159-81-03. Correct?
From my dealer = $38 each
Online = $15 each
Group 2: A plug is a plug, the dealer doesn't install any magic sause.
NGK part number ??
Bosch - ZR6SII3320 = $9 each
and many other vendors.
Since i am not too rich i'll skip the dealer option, but just want to verify the 81-03 part number is what folks are using. My dealer was less than helpful.
thanks guys.
Bosch just like NGK and Mitsuba make ALOT of electronic components for car companies that just get rebranded as their own. Bosch is known for making the majority of electronic components in european vehicles. So chances are very high that the OEM spark plugs could actually just be rebranded Bosch spark plugs. And even if they're not, Bosch makes some really good quality parts.
Bosch just like NGK and Mitsuba make ALOT of electronic components for car companies that just get rebranded as their own. Bosch is known for making the majority of electronic components in european vehicles. So chances are very high that the OEM spark plugs could actually just be rebranded Bosch spark plugs. And even if they're not, Bosch makes some really good quality parts.
I believe this was already shown for the Bosch plugs with a side by side and part number shot if the OEM ones.
DO NOT listen to this guy or you may cost yourself an engine. The plugs are indeed indexed by torque
If you reread my post, you will see that I stated that if the torque is correct, the indexing will automatically be correct. We're saying the same thing, no?
Bosch just like NGK and Mitsuba make ALOT of electronic components for car companies that just get rebranded as their own. Bosch is known for making the majority of electronic components in european vehicles. So chances are very high that the OEM spark plugs could actually just be rebranded Bosch spark plugs. And even if they're not, Bosch makes some really good quality parts.
The Bosch plugs, and the Bosch plugs with the MB logo, are the same plugs. So long as they have the Bosch part number ZR6SII3320 stamped into them, you can be sure they're the right plugs.
Thanks to everyone that contributed to this post. It's very informative. Although I "only" have 52K miles on my M278, it is a 2012 so I'm looking to change these sooner rather than later.
I tried replacing the plugs on my M157 (W219) today & I could not figure out how to get that last screw on the passenger side, closest to the firewall, out. It looks like its under part of the coil pack & angled so that you have no room because the side of the engine bay is right next to it. Any tips? TIA
I did this on my M278 and ran down to Autozone to buy a flexible 1/4" extension. That screw was so tight that it cracked loudly when finally loosened. It was a total bear.
I was able to pull the boot off slowly taking my time and twisting it. Switching up hands when one got tired.
The spark plug removal tool from Mercedes is a must IMHO..
Thanks to everyone that contributed to this post. It's very informative. Although I "only" have 52K miles on my M278, it is a 2012 so I'm looking to change these sooner rather than later.
no room for pliers, I used an old steel fountain pen body, made a slit 1" long and squeezed the tip of the tube slightly smaller than the plug ceramic. jammed the other end into a 15mm socket, twisted and jammed it onto the plug, eventfully broke the boot which come off on top of the tube
I'm attempting to change my spark plugs and just can't seem to get these little plugs off. They're the ones that connect to the coil, as indicate by the red circle here. Any special instructions on how to get them off?
So I'm having a hell of a time doing the opposite now, getting these back in and to snap/lock in place. I can't for the life of me figure it out! Any suggestions please? I have the grey tabs all the way out, I slide the connector/harness back onto the top of the coil but I can't get them to lock back into place. Either the gray tab won't slide back in or it does actually slide back but the harness doesn't lock in any way I can still simply pull them off!
Once you get the first connector off you'll see what the story is. There are little plastic nubs on the connector which the clips need to get past to release. The gray clips need to be pushed down very very firmly to release the connector. Although you need to be careful, I slid a small flathead screwdriver underneath the clip as far as it could go and just pressed up with it a little. Then I was able to pull the connector off.
Had to do that as well on some of coil packs, some released with just finger pressure - a few were quite frustrating to remove
Changed spark plugs on my 50K M157 engine, no idea on their mileage. Took me 3 evenings, longer than I expected even with all the reading and preparation.
Used my burgertuning magnetic socket with extensions that I already had.
Used a bike wheel spoke to pull coils, was a perfect combination of strong and pliable. Unfortunately I didn't read the advice of warming up the engine. There were 3 distinct types of coils: 2 Mercedes and Beru. Put 4 newer identical Mercedes ones closer to firewall, perhaps will change the other 4. How to troubleshoot a degraded/bad coil without obvious codes or misfires?
The worst plugs by far were 4 and 8 (farthest against firewall). Cylinder 1 plug had some oil on the threads. Googling got me somewhat worried - any idea how to monitor and test possible causes?
Discovered that both camshaft position sensors on the left side leak oil into harnesses - ordered to replace all 4, no brainier after
Just did this on my SL550 yesterday - the above tools are the ones you need.
I am not sure why any of you are using wrenches to pull the connectors; there isn't enough room for anything - I even bought a fancy set of BERU pliers from Baum tools that ended up being totally worthless; here is what you need:
You take this and do a crimp loop and then a loop-to-loop connection over the connector; make sure you slide the loop UNDER the plastic tab so you don't damage the coil pack connection:
Job went perfectly smooth and easy without destroying any connectors - don't waste time with stupid wrenches in such a tight space, and be sure to put dielectric grease on the ends of the connectors before re-inserting them.
You deserve a keg of beer for this recommendation. I ended up using paracord, but I was able to get all (8) off of my GL450-2014 with this method. I am not sure how I would have done it without this. Thank you!
08-19-2019, 06:26 PM
