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If the temperature sensor is bad or faulty it can cause weird things to happen
When they fixed that, there were no other codes so they gave the car back without any additional work. They claimed they couldn't replicate the idle spike.
I'm thinking this could be a MAP/MAF sensor issue maybe caused by the oil from my K&N filters. I ordered some MAF cleaner spray to try to see if it will fix this issue. If that doesn't help, I may replace them entirely and if that doesn't help I'm going to try using different gas since I always get gas from the same station.
I'm thinking this could be a MAP/MAF sensor issue maybe caused by the oil from my K&N filters. I ordered some MAF cleaner spray to try to see if it will fix this issue. If that doesn't help, I may replace them entirely and if that doesn't help I'm going to try using different gas since I always get gas from the same station.
Appreciate any insight anyone else might have.
Thanks!
we dont have MAF on our cars... oiled filters wouldnt matter
we dont have MAF on our cars... oiled filters wouldnt matter
Yes, correct. We have MAP sensors, correct? Is that not something that could be affected by this? I was speaking to some techs who work on American cars at a party and they suggested this could be an issue. I wasn't sure exactly how a MAP functioned though.
I'm literally out of ideas on how to fix this. I can say that it is mainly a cold motor problem (under operating temp of 175F). I'm wondering if it's an open/closed loop fuel system issue. I admit, I'm not an expert at technical issues but everyone I've turned to for help has no answers. The dealer tells me they can't replicate it (and now my warranty has expired). I try to video it and can't capture it. I'd like to send the ECU back to Eurocharged to see if they can look at the A/F logs but I don't have a second car to use while I send it off. Perhaps try some logging software? I bought an iCarSoft i980 to check for codes and I'm not throwing any even when the car acts up.
Starting to get a bit desperate for things to do to try.
Yes, correct. We have MAP sensors, correct? Is that not something that could be affected by this? I was speaking to some techs who work on American cars at a party and they suggested this could be an issue. I wasn't sure exactly how a MAP functioned though.
I'm literally out of ideas on how to fix this. I can say that it is mainly a cold motor problem (under operating temp of 175F). I'm wondering if it's an open/closed loop fuel system issue. I admit, I'm not an expert at technical issues but everyone I've turned to for help has no answers. The dealer tells me they can't replicate it (and now my warranty has expired). I try to video it and can't capture it. I'd like to send the ECU back to Eurocharged to see if they can look at the A/F logs but I don't have a second car to use while I send it off. Perhaps try some logging software? I bought an iCarSoft i980 to check for codes and I'm not throwing any even when the car acts up.
Starting to get a bit desperate for things to do to try.
map sensor is in the manifold so unless you dunked your airfilters in a gallon bucket of oil and installed it dripping wet, its not going to get enough oil into the manifold to foul it
map sensor is in the manifold so unless you dunked your airfilters in a gallon bucket of oil and installed it dripping wet, its not going to get enough oil into the manifold to foul it
I think that if you want to keep this car and your sanity you consider renting a car while EC looks at ecu
I spoke with EC and they say their tune does nothing under 1,500 rpm which is where the problem lies. They are happy to flash it back to stock but does not think that is the problem.
EC can flash back to stock, but so can the dealer and they usually flash both ecu and TCU in the form of an update (which IMO sucked in some sense and better in others). Maybe the update will work better than just your old stock files?
My car did have a weird kinda jerky feel at idle in drive, it was much worse after a WOT run, changed spark plugs and it was almost all gone. Got a unwanted ECU/TCU update and it is all gone. Might not be the fix (mine was minor enough after plug change, it was difficult to tell most of the time), but maybe it just might be.
I spoke with EC and they say their tune does nothing under 1,500 rpm which is where the problem lies. They are happy to flash it back to stock but does not think that is the problem.
I think to move forward you'll have to go back to stock
The only code that was thrown was a separate issue related to bad temp gauge. The dealer tried to say the gauge was reading oil/coolant temps wrong and that was the cause of the stutter/bucking. It obviously wasn't. I've never thrown any other codes before or after the one CEL related to the temp gauge/thermostat.
I finally got it on video, albeit hard to shoot, hopefully you guys can now see what I'm talking about. It definitely feels like a clutch/TCU issue. It will do this both when the foot comes off the brake while in drive before I hit the gas (hesitate, idle jumps up and then back down) and then it will go away. It also will happen like it does in the videos on initial throttle tip in.
Check out the videos. Ignore the sports talk radio in the background.
Thats exactly what my car did (only when cold)
They kept the car overnight outside and were able to verify it and they flashed the ECU and TCU they told me. I can find the work order if that helps.
Hasn't happened since then to me.
Thats exactly what my car did (only when cold)
They kept the car overnight outside and were able to verify it and they flashed the ECU and TCU they told me. I can find the work order if that helps.
Hasn't happened since then to me.
Finally, someone else has experienced this. I'm glad I'm not the only one.
If you could PM me a shot or post a shot of your work order, that would help big time!
Here is the work order.
Mine did it all the time NOT in ECO mode (even though invoice states it was).
Whatever they did, resolved my issue. It was so bad, that driving my 3 year old, I was afraid she would get whiplash.
No problems since Feb when they fixed it.
Haha indeed. I had such a hard time verbalizing it and the damn thing would never happen when I would video it. It was so frustrating to not be able to show you guys. Hoping these updates work. I'm taking the care in Tuesday.
is it only in C mode? i noticed both your vids were in C ... i never drive in C but i know it has different ecu/tcu setting vs other modes and wonder if it could be a C/eco mode only issue?
is it only in C mode? i noticed both your vids were in C ... i never drive in C but i know it has different ecu/tcu setting vs other modes and wonder if it could be a C/eco mode only issue?
I typically don't drive in Sport during stop and go driving because the downshift to 1st at a stop is pretty jerky. I usually go into S or S+ once I'm on the highway.
I always turn Eco off as soon as I start the car even when driving in C mode. Wish they could use STARR to turn that garbage off permanently!
I finally got it on video, albeit hard to shoot, hopefully you guys can now see what I'm talking about. It definitely feels like a clutch/TCU issue. It will do this both when the foot comes off the brake while in drive before I hit the gas (hesitate, idle jumps up and then back down) and then it will go away. It also will happen like it does in the videos on initial throttle tip in.
Check out the videos. Ignore the sports talk radio in the background.
My car recently started doing that after they did a ECU Flash, never did that before the ECU Flash. It seems the car disengages the clutches in the MCT when you are at a stop when you let off the brakes it re-engages the clutches before you move that is what you feel as a stall and a rev and all the other stuff. It's worse in my wife's BMW 528i when it's cold out
06-06-2016, 12:41 PM
