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I have not run my E40 tune yet.
If and I mean *if* I do I am doing plugs and coils first for sure.
I would love a 10.x before moving on from the W212 (I just bought a W213)
But also need a saleable W212 the last thing I need is a bent rod or break an output shaft or something because I'm sick in the head and just need to run a 10 for closure
LOL
@I.T. Guy - I was in your same boat wanting a reliable tune and minimal other mods for my M157/W212 that could produce consistent quarter mile runs in the 10.x range. There's many many here with great feedback on their tune set ups but I'll just share that I went with a AMS 100 octane dyno tune (they're local to me in Chicago) plus BB intakes and ECC TCU tune and consistently run mid 10's with zero issues the past 2-3 years. I wanted to keep my car as stock as possible and have a tune that's reliable and allowed me to drop the stock ECU back in with stock airboxes if I ever wanted to sell the car or just return it to stock easily. I had easy access to 100 octane in Chicago from a few Speedway & Shell stations so this option seemed to work for my goals with the car.... Just sharing my feedback
IMHO looking backwards to find the cause maybe impossible. I'd move forward and find the problem while breaking in the new engine. For example maybe you have a bad fuel pump, bad injector, you won't know until it's running, you start leaning on it and logging.
My $.02 Rebuild with brand new ignition coils and I'd stick with stock plugs.
Break it in stock tune while logging, fix any issues.
No issues proceed to WOT logging still stock, make sure no issues like fueling, IC temps, knock retard etc if all pass then tune
If keeping the Renntech tune apply it on a Dyno while logging, make sure there are no issues keep eye on ignition, knock, fuel trims. If any issues repair.
If custom tuning tune and log and fix any issues, there maybe none - keep an eye on ignition, knock, fuel trims.
Enjoy life!
For me after such a $ rebuild it's a no brainer to custom tune it.
Then forever use HPTuners to keep logging/checking codes regularly. These cars will have problems, set a code, but NOT set a Check Engine Light and proceed to destroy themselves over time. For example my intercooler pump broke, nothing told me it was broken except the car got slower. Logged it and posted it on mbworld and everyone said "WOW your intake temps are too high, check that!" and sure enough, blown Intercooler Pump, massive heat, lots of pulled timing, lots of knock sensor and knock retard. Yet my car would knocked itself to death if I didn't log it and fix the IC pump. And it was still almost fast - I was still beating C8's LOL so it's a fine line between sick car and healthy car and you'll never know unless you really really are good at butt dyno and feel however Logging and looking at DTC's regularly is much safer.
I think you'll be fine just plow forward!!!!!
@GMBALL do this plus install water/meth kit after flashing the tune.
@I.T. Guy - I was in your same boat wanting a reliable tune and minimal other mods for my M157/W212 that could produce consistent quarter mile runs in the 10.x range. There's many many here with great feedback on their tune set ups but I'll just share that I went with a AMS 100 octane dyno tune (they're local to me in Chicago) plus BB intakes and ECC TCU tune and consistently run mid 10's with zero issues the past 2-3 years. I wanted to keep my car as stock as possible and have a tune that's reliable and allowed me to drop the stock ECU back in with stock airboxes if I ever wanted to sell the car or just return it to stock easily. I had easy access to 100 octane in Chicago from a few Speedway & Shell stations so this option seemed to work for my goals with the car.... Just sharing my feedback
@jvakos and I run the same ams 100
Dyno tune with same hardware (bb, edok tcu implemented by ec atx) and have same performance without any issues. He had me quit the fuss and dyno tune for 100 with ams and it has been a joy since.
^^ You lucky SOB's
I can't even get E at the pump here, never mind 100.
My E40 tune is ECC Slav so I know it's "good" and safe and if I apply it I'm dyno'ing it a their shop with them monitoring it. I just need to decide if I'm going to do it or be a chicken ****.
^^ You lucky SOB's
I can't even get E at the pump here, never mind 100.
My E40 tune is ECC Slav so I know it's "good" and safe and if I apply it I'm dyno'ing it a their shop with them monitoring it. I just need to decide if I'm going to do it or be a chicken ****.
I think I know what happened with my car. After spending several hours watching Tasos videos and looking at the car with exactly same damage (literally identical), it is inconsistency in the outputs of fuel injectors, one cylinder was probably running lean, much more heat and pressure. Who is interested here is the video:
I think I know what happened with my car. After spending several hours watching Tasos videos and looking at the car with exactly same damage (literally identical), it is inconsistency in the outputs of fuel injectors, one cylinder was probably running lean, much more heat and pressure. Who is interested here is the video:
On monday morning first thing to do go a bring your injectors and test them to see, you cannot be 100% sure about the cause from only watching videos, each car behave differently, so as we said before it is high combustion temp, it can be from fuel or iat.
On monday morning first thing to do go a bring your injectors and test them to see, you cannot be 100% sure about the cause from only watching videos, each car behave differently, so as we said before it is high combustion temp, it can be from fuel or iat.
I am not even going to test them, I will replace them all with new injectors to stay on the safe side. Will test pressure pumps though.
This is why it's extremely important to have hptuner. By doing regular check up and logs you may have been able to spot the lean cylinder . Because you can set up all 8 cylinders and read which cylinders are pulling timing, and why. Along with some other settings . This is where preventative maintenance comes into play. Injectors rarely just fail right there and then . They usually show signs they are starting to fail. Please invest in a laptop and start logging and keeping track. Also years ago I made a post about methanol injection on an m157, and I can't stress enough how much these engines benefits from methanol . It aids in cooling, aids in lower injector duty cycle if you run a fair amount of cc's, lowers cylinder temps, gives you that extra insurance for instances where you may start running lean but the meth is there as a back up and fights off potential damage . Just food for thought for some who do not yet have a way to log or some that have been on the fence about methanol .
I wish I could find those PID values in my iCarSoft MB V3.0. Well, I have Benzninja now so I guess I can drive around with a laptop to check out the health of my M157. I guess HP Tuners is still beneficial to log though.
This is why it's extremely important to have hptuner. By doing regular check up and logs you may have been able to spot the lean cylinder . Because you can set up all 8 cylinders and read which cylinders are pulling timing, and why. Along with some other settings . This is where preventative maintenance comes into play. Injectors rarely just fail right there and then . They usually show signs they are starting to fail. Please invest in a laptop and start logging and keeping track. Also years ago I made a post about methanol injection on an m157, and I can't stress enough how much these engines benefits from methanol . It aids in cooling, aids in lower injector duty cycle if you run a fair amount of cc's, lowers cylinder temps, gives you that extra insurance for instances where you may start running lean but the meth is there as a back up and fights off potential damage . Just food for thought for some who do not yet have a way to log or some that have been on the fence about methanol .
Can you post up some links with methanol injection kits, please? I have found only one from Weistec.
Two rods on cylinder 1 and 5 are completely bent. You can see it with an eye. Cylinder 1 piston is melted.
Crankshaft looks bent due to difficulty turning it (without rods). Darton MID Sleeves will arrive end of next week, ItalianRP pistons/rods too.
Crankshaft will be sent to the special place to make it straight within bearing play limits by the manufacturer.
Injectors will be measured but I am still debating whether I should replace them anyways even if they are good.
14 E63, 05 E55, 03 Evo 8, 08 F250, 06 R6R, 92 Talon TSI, and instability
Originally Posted by GMBALL
Two rods on cylinder 1 and 5 are completely bent. You can see it with an eye. Cylinder 1 piston is melted.
Crankshaft looks bent due to difficulty turning it (without rods). Darton MID Sleeves will arrive end of next week, ItalianRP pistons/rods too.
Crankshaft will be sent to the special place to make it straight within bearing play limits by the manufacturer.
Injectors will be measured but I am still debating whether I should replace them anyways even if they are good.
Yes, you can straighten a crank. However, if you plan to throw more power at it you are playing with fire. You'd be better off paying for a new crank.
Also, this is further evidence of the tune being partially at fault for your failure.
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