What are we looking at?

 

I assume his point is that they look the same.

 

Making that clear would help though.
I sat there for a few mins zooming in, zooming out, inverting, grey scaling and then gave up.

 

We see the solenoid with its internal harness responsible for solenoid DTC/CEL.

pump control harness

This is the harness responsible for the "lucky fault" that automatically initiates MOD-1 linear pressure.


> MISC PICS...
I guess race-engine builders are implying these systems are involved with race-engine failure.
These engines are tough as nails that's why some owners push them to their limits.

Many of us enjoyed looking at everyday-engines postmortems tours by Erik at "I do cars".
We see the final strokes are caused by cylinder issues (bores, rods, bearings) just not pump nor chains unless serpentine belt got ingested.

Camshafts spin at 1:2 Rpm but the pump is directly driven at 1:1 near crank Rpm.
The oil pump spins at max engine Rpm.

> The shafts and sprocket alignment may be of concern in loose pump or crank lateral thrust bearings.

> Balancing the pump rotating mass may become critical at 6500.Rpm


> TOP LUBE...
What does it take to lubricate cylinders turn around spot near TDC ?
To deliver oil to Cyl. top it helps if oil is not vaporized before pistons reach TDC!

So controlling pistons heat is important to carry oil up the cylinders. Even dry lube chemistry (SN/SP) doesn't get there by itself.

Burnt oil is not much less effective at reaching cylinder tops.

> DELIVERY UPGRADES...
More pressure can only help deliver racing lube: ZDDP + 90Psi pump + larger squirters.

Tiny stock squirters are less effective with lower volumes... racing with that affects pistons/cyls.

What about using the old fashioned dual-squirters per cyl. to spray more oil volume onto pistons.

Real engine-erings upgrade would be interesting to test...

Right now we are clearly dealing with oiling downgrade failures.
Stock setup nothing new here:

• part time spray cooling
• tiny single squirters
• limited pump pressure

No surprises with limited lube results...
It's almost satisfactory for every day driving besides high-stress application require effective lube not "gas-saving" Euro formula.

Personally for everyday normal driving (not racing) I am only concerned with stable cam positioning.

I have no supporting evidence or concern to believe MOD-X:5W-50 stresses oiling system (chain, pump, filter, seals, tensioners,... NONE! at normal driving Rpm.

"Normal driving" shows evidence of :
HEAT damages caused by hot pistons.
Poor TIMINGS caused by limited oil pressure.

In conclusion I'd say it is retarded misguided to insinuates 40Psi pump pressure cause issues at normal driving RPM where damages are in fact caused by racing applications.

 

After 6'000 km my oil looks like this:



I would say.. my piston rings are pretty clean now and I'm very happy. The Motul Oil works really fine from this point of view. 🤗

 

nice Roli too haha

 

@slobo
Two thumbs up: congratulations for your achievements!!


You are now running increasingly cleaner sealed rings that give you increasingly vibration-free balanced cylinders.

Your excellent oil selection proves it's working effectively and no longer burning out.

Incremental performance improvements are solely based on the even timings of sealed cylinders.

-- Virtuous Journey : "Little by little" the former maps data are relearned with improved conditions.
Cylinders improve > throttle improves > tranny improves > ... up to: Nimble & strong !

-- Smooth fuel map enable strong throttle response from lower Rpm. (Not a mix of lean + rich)

-- Excellent tranny timings shift perfectly: tranny is always in the perfect gear and shifts like a ninja. It is a slow process to match as engine shapes up.

-- Managed heat disables lumpi powertrain:
response strays equally sharp and strong. Converter remains very direct, never slushy loose on thin ATF.

THE IMPROVEMENT LADDER....
> Matched viscosity
> effective sprayers
> cooled pistons
> clean rings
> sealed pistons
> even cylinders
> even timings
> smooth learned maps
> full GDI contributions


amber honey MOTUL at 6k.Km
Golden shine is wearing gently instead of failing quickly.

"When oil stops burning, it can start cleaning!"
Oil consumption is linked to piston heat vaporization and rings sealing compressions.


Your MB will keeps running strong & predictable like a Swiss watch.
Enjoy your rewards.

 

Kris:
... yeah, he knows what time it is!

 

Thank you Guys.. 🙏🏻
I will keep this oil for the next 3'000-4'000 km and then I will change it. Last time when I changed the oil, it was so much darker and smells very bad. I think the process of cleaning def. works. That's what I could tell you from my experiences. Next time I will use more 5W50 then the last time.

 

The experience of smoothing cylinders contributions on NA/TT engine proves [to the wiser] the high-resolution CKP sensor is directly responsible at either tuning or de-tuning the powertrain.

It is easy to enable the premium throttle response by preserving predictable timings.
Drafty cylinders invite misfires ie. lean mixtures.

MOTUL + Amsoil PAO are great upgrade

super duper PAO ??

I am curious to test drive how Mobil1 "SuperCar" PAO 5W-50 API-SP formula works out.

 

I got a question i have a soft code (No CEL) for P06DA-00 but it’s still plugged in I never unplugged it and a few months ago this code wasn’t there .

P06DA-00 The actuation of the valve of the oil pump in the combustion engine has an electrical fault or open circuit or ignore error code. There Is A General Failure. - Current

Is this concerning because I didn’t unplug it or nothing to worry about ? It’s been driving fine maybe solenoid? Wiring ? 14 ML63

 

The concern is that you may have oil creeping in from that plug into your main engine wiring harness, and that is a common issue with your engine. You should get in there underneath your car and inspect and disconnect the plug and see if there's any oil at that plug and determine if oil has made its way into your engine wire harness

 

It’s actually dry I forgot to mention that when I checked to make sure it was plugged in I checked . Only thing that could’ve gotten it wet is antifreeze from the thermostat change recently.

 

And your engine isn't overheating correct? You've been driving the car and it's driving fine?

 

This code is the "lucky fault" mentioned in above post. It denotes the low-pressure solenoid being disabled aka MOD-1.

This code is more likely to develop in engines with high heat level.

You may want to inspect these heat related items :

• Cam sensors oil leaks
• ECU oily "M" connector
• cooling circuits leaks
• timing covers oil leaks
• injectors/ignition coils

 

yes drives fine no issues or any other codes .

 

then you may have the first reported failed oil solenoid on this thread. The general consensus is that unplugging the solenoid effectively achieves what your car is already done for you with a non-functioning oil solenoid that seems to be stuck in the position of default, which allows normal oil flow at all times versus dual stage oil flow. therefore, it would seem that you're not at risk of having low flow to your engine. That would risk overheating your engine.

it would probably be wise to confirm this with a mechanic if you're not a mechanic

how many miles are on your vehicle?

 

I do work on my own vehicle yes and my vehicle has 111k miles , owned for 3 yrs and got it with 70k . Regular maintenance and no issues since I’ve owned it .

 

I'd be inclined to check the actual oil pressure with a gauge, engine hot.

 

For the M177, outside the W212 platform

https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=24992959306976026

 

$24,000 engine-out repair is a good business to swap the failed harness aka. "lucky fault".

It's amazing the non-dealer Indy insist on repairing one of the few failures that are beneficial.
Managed oil pressure is the guarantee back to stock.


The technician is nice enough for $24k to also repair a few unrelated maintenance parts beyond strictly WIS only :

• crank main seal
• oil sump
• windage tray/seals
• engine mounts
• ignition parts
• oil exchangers
• ...

> All options are good choices:

• Stock oil pressure is good : MOD-0:0W-40
• Normal* oil pressure is better : MOD-1:5W-40
• Effective* oil pressure is best : MOD-X:5W-50

Obviously not everyone share the same understanding - Results are based on setup.

Extreme heat not my cup of tea: the pump harness gets baked into failure.
Technician states the solenoid remains ok, not the harness but he replaces both items.
Electric coil is not the failure.
Harness fails as if featuring a built-in thermal-fuse protection to disable high heat condition.

///

*: up to each individual to decide experimental course vs. predictable stock.

 

for what it’s worth I just had this done under warranty at the dealership and it was about a $3000 repair. The subframe had to come down. The harness is a $15 part and the solenoid isn’t really expensive either but the labor is a killer.. I only got it done because of the warranty. And for clarification, I did not have the solenoid fail, but the harness was leaking into the main engine harness. So even though I’m a fan of disconnecting the solenoid I wanted that repaired while it was effectively free to me.

 

Is your warranty a Vehicle Service Contract or did Mercedes extend its warranty?

 

The important part of this video is the discussion about how water (coolant) temp is used to predict/calculate oil temp.

 

It was a fidelity exclusionary policy.