It may be easier to disconnect from the bottom, but it's not hard doing it from the top on a V6. I've done it to both my M276 3.5 and my M276 3.0 from the top. All I had to do was remove the intake duct on the passenger side on either car. For me, getting under the car and removing the splash guards is much more of a pain.

 

That is good news, I have a bad back can't bend back too much so I need to borrow someone's hoist to do it, jack stands and floor jacks won't cut it for me. It will be awesome if I can do it from the top as long as there is not too much leaning to do.

Are you able to install a dummy harness for each to plug the harness and the oil pump solenoid as well from the top and also zip tie it to the coolant line without issues?

 

Good points, but extending service life of a vehicle is not as flashy as having a car without a front grill. Longer service life also will impact new car sales. Car Wizard did a video on the downside of putting all of your electronics in a touchscreen. Kinda scary to think that if the touchscreen goes out, you are dead in the water. Makes me glad I have older technology.

 

Well, I heard that is a common issue with Tesla. Forum member superswiss mentioned Tesla using only one computer (or he said control module) to control everything while MB have many so if one fails it doesn't cause a complete disruption of service. Really hope MB brings back those buttons that we all prefer.

 

Just to close the loop on the whole editing discussion, I was completely wrong associating the MBWorld+ membership with being able to edit. I heard back from a representative of the Internet Brands parent corporation and was told the membership has nothing to do with the ability to edit. So, I apologize for making an observation that lead to a wrong conclusion. Sorry for getting everyone in a tizzy.

No further explanation was provided. So, if you want to know why you lost the ability to edit, I suggest you use the contact form and submit your questions.

 

Apparently, I am the head "button-pusher".

 

Yes to all. On the turbo car, you need to reach behind the intercooler a bit, but the location is identical for both engines.

 

thanks for closing the loop

 

Thank you! This is very helpful, looking forward to getting it done this weekend or next week, will then go on OP's forms and complete the poll.

Ditto : )

 

edit limit is set to 240 minutes...
you can click on "report post" and submit changes to it or PM me...

 

Thanks for confirming the duration down to minutes. However, is there a particular reason to such change? I am sure many of us forum members are curious.

 

from what i hear, edit time limit is set to prevent members abusing this feature...
it may be a hassle for all of us, but # of edit requests is far less work than moderating # of edit abuse in the past...

 

I’ve unplugged mine after watching the video. No Cel just a soft code when you plug it into scanner. Warms up way faster now.

 

ok good to know - I'll consolidate edits to the sticky and let you know thanks

 

Ah, that makes sense, thank you for your response.

 

Good news, if you have a minute please kindly answer the poll linked in the OP's post.

 

Okay, more NON-Scientific research (in the GLS550).

Removed the oil solenoid, changed the oil (Mobil1 0-40). Did the rest of the fluid changes too while we were at it (including motor mounts, $4000 service).

We went chasing an eclipse. With fresh oil in the car we did about 2100 miles in just over a week. I checked the oil a few times, in the trip I did add about quart of oil (no lights came on). The thing that was noticable to me, the oil today is the exact same color as the day that it went into the engine...crazy. It has never been like that in my E63's. or heck, not even in my 911 Turbo S...the oil always went black pretty quick.

 

What causes oil to turn black? Before I google that, I will give you the Cali answer: it's burnt from hitting super-heated pistons.

Now, off to ask Mr. Google or some AI.

 

And the answer is....

Soot Causes Oil to Turn Black

I think we see our oil darken due to heat cycles. Mine never reaches the black stage.

 

Ive been unplugged for maybe 7000 miles and 5 months or so. One of the first things I noticed after unplugging (and made a post in here about it) was the cold clutch slip when accelerating from a stop was gone. In C mode, while the motor is cold, from a dead stop, in gear 2, the trans would grab and engage with no slip. For maybe the past month, the transmission behavior has reverted back to the same way it was before unplugging. Strange

 

I’ve noticed the same reversion as well, same timeline and similar mileage since unplug.

 

That's a cause for a small celebration: you witnessed unusual planetary alignment and your oil looks unusually new after 2kMi.
What a fun trip this must have been!!

I think it's oxidation that causes any oil to turn color. Ester oil are known to handle heat well within limits. When pushed to 400°F, there's no match.

The best Mob1 0w40 is not going to retain necessary viscosity to spray hot pistons at normal driving RPM.

When uncontrolled high heat returns and oil resume getting vaporized, you'll be able to boost viscosity to keep your pistons cooled.


I don't think atomized direct injection can cause a significant amount of unburned soot like a Diesel sprinter on countless new or aged engines alike.

 

I did compression tests on my two cars using XENTRY.

• My 2015 SL400 (M276 3.0 bi-turbo) has been unplugged for about 3100 miles and five months. It is using Mobil 1 0W-40 with about 450ml CERA TEK and 300ml Mobil 1 15W-50. I have a little over 2000 miles on the oil.
• My 2014 C350 (M276 3.5 NA) has been unplugged for about 3000 miles and 4.5 months. It is also using Mobil 1 0W-40 with about 450ml CERA TEK and 300ml Mobil 1 15W-50. I have a about 2300 miles on the oil.

The results were similar and looked good.

 

JR: I'd call that a really good setup

We observe RPM differences between TT/NA... it's likely the battery load handling or voltage drop in oxidized GND strap difference under 750Amp.

Also it's interesting to see that Cylinder 1 away from gearbox is always the weakest and the first candidate for piston issues.

We note the TT shows more uneven contributions. That suggest some type of wear hopefully helped by wet rings.

With that setup you can expect your ECU to deliver GDI timings. Mine started on fresh 5w40 MOTUL even before doctoring my viscosity. It was spraying for about 1500 to 2000.Mi before enough viscosity was lost to smoke.

When you notice cold startup RPM improving and the starter launching the engine into high RPM instead of laboring.... then you'll know your ECU is handing out timings improvements.

In any case you are getting necessary dry-lube chemistry combined with spray cooling such that your oil viscosity remain stable. This delivers unaltered hot engine performance vs. spongy response with heat in MOD0.

Knowing this is good insurance against "$10k oil-in-harness" and perhaps blown up engine is rather comforting.

++++ HPFP TT vs NA:
Some differences can be linked to the camshaft driving one vs. two HPFP.


++++ Smooth predictable timings are the end goal
The key to GDI timings for amazing torque multi-shots injection is regularity that the proportioning valve can work with.
It must close-open-close synchronously with every cam lobe cycle... perfectly on-time so 2500.PSI pressure is what ECU wants.

The sole judge is the ECU. it's up to us to help the engine get the ECU in the mood to switch timings.

Sealing compressions at normal driving RPM helps even out cylinders as witnessed by minimal blow-by.

We can hope MOD2.1 viscosity helps offset leaky tensioners to please bank1 intake with regularity.

I do sport a reworked 3-phase in-tank feed pump controller. I reworked it early on when troubleshooting the drain by driving under 11.0V/90A chaos.
This is a CAN-C VIP bus Module! Many unfavorable conditions were used against this module. Super long +12V and super long GND. Mixed up wiring noisy with low-voltage tank level measure. Hardly any capacitor around choke coils... a sore sight.

So here is what I got :

• I have a short nearby GND.
• Separately routed +12v feed R-SAM
• Split short 3-PH twisted harness
• Additional noise filtering caps!!!
• hot enclosure drilled "swiss-cheese"
• Module was factory soldered ok

I am not positive this can make a difference in quest for "GDI timings" ~ 20 30% chance.
Noisy high-speed CAN does have potential to create high retransmits and bug the ECU/TCU synchronous shifts.

So I am not entirely sure on this.... we're going to learn something.


++++ FRIGID AC
Cooling the engine at driving speed delivered a new trick for me today.
Freezing my feet on Hwy was a certainly a first!
AC has never been great even new so I wrapped my pressure line to keep 200F engine heat out of it.

My chassis has no heater core valve as highlighted by MS @S-Prihadi : It is always circulating fully heated coolant from Bank2 head.

Now that engine heat is properly removed, it makes a real difference and A/C is able to offset the full heat brought into cabin. I assume the insulated dbl-firewall is helping by staying much cooler.
✌️

 

Try changing the oil. I am assuming the oil is thinning. That's partly why I've been on this 5W-50 kick.

We could also just compare hot idle oil pressure right after an oil change and every 1000 miles just to prove the theory. But that's my theory. Oil pressure it dropping at low RPM due to thinning oil. Due for a change or a switch to a better oil.