What! You didn't read all 4222 posts?

 

Why would you want "weaker top end power" with overworked thin oil? Perhaps your engine already needs better oiling at 35kMi.
Have you measured your compressions for rings leakage ??

Do you have throttle lag or poor tranny shifts? That can be caused by blow-by from limited oiling.

To prevent the solenoid fault... some experimenters have installed a cheap "dummy solenoid" or resistor to complete the circuit with a normal load.


The long story short... is MOD-1 is an initial step with seemless results.

Consider gradually experimenting better PAO oiling with related improvements as pistons rings clean up, losses are reduced.

Got to stop hot oil from vaporizing on drafty pistons by removing heat.

 

Do you know how many Ohm's are needed to trick it? Also want to clarify that it seems to be slower with the check engine light on and the solenoid unplugged. It runs real good the first cycle after its been unplugged before the light comes on.

Any suggestions for colder climate driving as far as oiling. was gonna run the 0W-40 its next oil change.

Should I even be pursuing this Mod or is it overrated?

 

everyone has a valid personal opinion about engine modifications... from destructive to terrific.

The best setup to meet all factory expected results is with stock settings aka. MOD-0.

Playing with solenoid connector carries the potential risk of jamming on low pressure only: that's total loss.

Some incentives for personal experimentations away from the safety of stock limited oiling are to disable a few drawbacks:

1. blow-by Cyl. losses,
2. unbalanced contributions (CKP!)
3. seemless tranny shifts,
4. phasers lock worned by low pressure,
5. accumulated heat soaks,
6. ....

As tested under normal driving conditions.

I wonder how well has BMW chosen to implement Bosch low pressure solenoid? Do they get slow poke throttle lag out of it or seamlessly perfect with well controlled heat?

 

That is entirely up to you. But you seriously need to search in this thread about the testing that has been done and the logic behind doing it. Mercedes is not the only car company to use the two-stage oil pump, but they all seem to use it to squeeze out a few more feet per gallon. Personally, I don't like the idea of hitting 3500 rpm before the squirters turning on. Highway cruising speed is only about 1700 rpm.

What do you mean by colder climate? What oil are you currently using? Whatever you use, make sure it is API SP rated.

The dummy solenoid is really the way to go -- much easier than adding a resistor. No wires to strip and solder. Get a cheap one from AliExpress. All the info is somewhere in this thread.

I think all the newer cars will trip the CEL with this unplugged. There was also reported that some of the 63s would also trigger the CEL. CELs are for emission-related problems and this "mod" technically affects emissions. I think Mercedes is CYA because of telling dealers early on to ignore the P06DA00 DTC.

 

Hi mates,
25k~ miles now on my A45 Mj.17 5w40 Shell Helix Ultra max.180h atm. Oilfilter very clean every time i change. To disable this oilpump was the best ever for my Engine.

 

I will try to help a bit in order to find the post about the dummy, look in this thread for posts from JettaRed and you will find what you need

 

I have another new batch of Molygen 5-40 in the back seat of the car now...ever since I put in the dummy solenoid the oil looks almost new when it comes out of the car (5000 +/- miles)

 

I found this:

Dummy solenoid
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...st#post9203776

Wiring plugs
https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...st#post9163125

 

Glad you have discovered part of what you were missing.

You have evidenced a lot of the engine basic functions rest upon oil pressure being available.

The stock chaos is courtesy of the ECU managing our GDI engines with missing data.

We can guess brilliant engineers derived actual oil pressure from computation... The outcome is what we are dealing with: "the best + something" ?


> Let that sink in...:
Engine performance is directly tied to oil pressure.

Realize what's needed is NOT better lubricity meaning stock frictions lubrication is nearly ok.

With stock 0/5W-40 oil, the pump solenoid improvements are minimal compared to oil viscosity upgrades MOD-2,...X.


> JOURNEY:
We can't re-code this ECU logic but we can experiment upgrading the oiling setup step by step...
That is the MOD-X experimental discovery journey in this thread.


> RESULTS:
The results are the ECU requires predictable stability to deliver top-notch GDI driveability.

Meaning the uncontrolled pistons heat derates low oil viscosity. The ECU logic is unable to adapt the same way excellent tranny firmware deals with thin oil viscosity. ECU is unable to manage oil variable pressure... pretty significant hydraulic parameter.


> MAN MADE...
The Bosch team in charge of precise phasers positioning with hot GDI engine oil decided to rely on unknown variable hydraulic pressure...
OUCH/UNBELIEVABLE!

The results like random darts in the dark.

Here is the list of unmanaged dynamic variables :

1. Unknown actual pressure without sensor
2. variable pressure from pump solenoid
3. variable pressure from pump Rpm
4. variable viscosity without thermal compensation
5. variable extreme heat derating viscosity

You can realize from that list what little MOD-0/1 does to the "unknown variable pressure" issue, right?

ECU uses a simple look up table for Phaser position vs. RPM.

MOD-X experiment is based upon effectively smoothing the variables we realize our ECU is ignoring.

1. smooth solenoid disabled
2. smooth PAO viscosity
3. smooth lookup table
4. smooth sealed Cyls.
5. smooth controlled heat

Matched viscosity delivers super responsive GDI throttle driveability with matching tranny shifts unlike stock setup.

Precise throttle is based on predictable air from precise phasers mixed with predictable mapped fuel. With stock setup the fuel maps below 3000.Rpm are forced lean causing the heavy laggy slow response. The Air/Fuel mixture is further derated by leaky pistons rings blow-by.

Oil upgrade experimentations are a personal choice. Stock is fine to deliver its predictable results.

 

Thanks for the reply, I had the same concern about it possibly sticking one way or the other without the electrical power to manipulate it when connected. I may plug it back in for now until I do my research on the dummy selenide you guys mentioned. I feel I can't get the best gauge of performance with the check engine light on, The car seems to drive different, and I don't know if it's better.

Any experience I have had with a similar solenoid. is in the top end Vanos systems on most BMW's. Never had one fail on me but I had a buddy that had one fail that controlled timing on the intake cam and bent a valve...

My main concern is not getting proper oiling being in Wisconsin during the winters. It was -1F the other day in the morning. The car was in the garage that I keep about 40F, but sitting in a parking lot for half the day the oil can Definity get down in the single digits.

 

Thanks for the Links, very helpful.

 

Charting your experimental course is the smart way to go.


-- I have not heard about anyone ever bending valves with defective Mercedes phasers.

-- Rare pump solenoid jamming is caused by non-magnetic debris traveling through.
Disconnecting for a period then reconnecting carries additional odds of jamming.
Better not to play with solenoid!

At any rate INCREMENTAL IMPROVEMENTS ARE SLOW TO TRICKLE IN as engine clean up slowly when heat is controlled: 5, 10, 15KMi.


> WINTER PAO FLOWS...
-1°F Wisconsin freezing Winter requires you follow effective warm up procedures.

Modern Oil specs reference flow at -40° (F/C?):
Do your homework on comparing Synthetic to PAO lubricants at both low and high Temps.

Practically you can look at "MB approved" 5W40: Motul PAO vs. Mobil1 Euro FS stock.


When in doubt: Stock is predictable.

 

-6F here in NH yesterday. No noticeable difference in how my E550 (M278) started/warmed up unplugged, vs plugged (previously) under same conditions. I drive with heat off until coolant temp reaches 90 (indicated) so engine reaches operating temp more quickly.

 

That may seem logical, but is it noticeably faster?

Also, using the instrument gauge is imprecise. Or, do you use the AMG menu in the IC?

If using the AMG menu, you want all the temps, oil, coolant, and transmission, if you have it, to be in the white before driving the car hard. Not just the coolant temp, which is in the white at any temperature.

 

Pertinent little Short from TCCN

 

He’s a Toyota guy. Does Toyota specify any oil other than by weight? Show me evidence that 5W-30 used in an engine calling for 0W-20 harms the oil pump.

I don’t think emissions are the primary driver for lower weight oils. Where are these “other” countries? I’m sure the EU has just as stringent emissions laws as the US.

He says the lower specified oil weight helps the oil pump to move to the “next step”, whatever that means. Luckily, those of us with older cars don’t have to deal with this nonsense IF we use the right approved oil (e.g., API SP, MB 229.5, etc.). (By the way, Honda is the same with regards to specifying only the weight to use.) Waiting to see what other manufacturers join GM in reversing this trend of thin oils.

 

Understood the "indicated" temp is not really accurate, but representative of overall operating conditions.

Seems to have some benefit. When it's that cold, if the car isn't fully warmed up and heat is on while stopped or coasting the indicated temp will actually drop (same in other cars).

 

Sure, I’ve seen that before, even in the summer. The idea is that you drive mildly until fully warmed to operating temperature, and actually drive versus sitting idling or coasting.

Are you using the AMG menu or the temperature gauge? The temperature gauge is highly inaccurate. There’s discussions elsewhere where the true temperature doesn’t display until you approach overheating. If you use the AMG menu, you will see the coolant temperature fluctuate a lot. If the gauge did that, as well, you would have most drivers freaking out. Mercedes is not the only one to do this. I think virtually all car companies display coolant temperature the same way.

 

AMD from TheCarCareNutChannel states...:
"he does not want to try using W30 engine oil in a w20/w16/w8 modern Toyota engine because they are programmed to use what Toyota recommends".

This is a clear statement to keep using manufacturer recommended stock oil ie. don't change what you don't know.

This comes at a time when Toyota has recalled engines for main bearings failure and the new replacement engines blocks get the exact same failure.

Originally Toyota argued they were dealing with a batch of engines with debris contaminants...
Now its becoming obvious the short lived bearings are wasted by something else... uneffective thin oil film on soft bearings melt halve shells to the crank.
ouch!


Different oiling issues!!
Some Mercedes engines have a DIFFERENT SET OF ISSUES NOT RELATED to ultra-thin oil film but hydraulic pressure.

The W40 stock oil lube does a fine job with all bearings (mains, conrod, camshafts, turbo) even derated as W30 its film is still effective under normal moderate loads.

Toyota has pushed the envelope further to reduce pumping forces. Finally Toyota has reached marginal lube issues.

Toyota engine oiling is likely managed by a combination of solenoids to control pump and squirters.
Limited oil volume is directed to bearings but that's not enough.
Combined with the "engine-start-stop" feature that helps aerate oil, main bearings don't tolerate foamed oil mix.... kaboom: weld jobs!

While we're in thin oil territories, seasoned Toyotas engines are famous for burning oil through stuck rings. Recently AMD exposed Toyota crusted rings evidence... unbalanced contribution galore!


> SCRAPPING THE BARREL...
We are witnessing the tweaking of engines designed for reduced life and save pennies of gas. Toyota and Bosch engineers will turn up engines ppl can use less and less.

 

spray cooling pistons warms up coolant with hot oil through the heat exchanger. This prevents accumulating pistons heat to extreme levels that burns oil into drafty rings... shaky engine lean contributions.

The key is removing heat at "normal driving RPM" else if removed ONLY ABOVE 1800.Rpm then it's uneffective and still accumulating into heat soaks at engine stop.

Evidence of effective heat removal is driving in Winter or Summer without the 100Amp fan blasting non-stop.

Effective heat removal is a necessary relief for unnecessary hand-made issue.

 

I basically interpreted his statements as saying with modern engines and new variable stage oil pumps is when it can be a little more risky to use a thicker oil because the oil pump isn’t always pumping at full pressure.

 

Some of the newer Toyota engines part away from the 100% hydraulic phasers we are familiar with.

Now they use electrically powered cam phasers to not deal with VVT oil pressures issues.

Toyota throttle is very precise and responsive with zero lean misfires lag. Perfectly tuned combustions.

I don't know all conditions of how Toyota solenoids manage oil pressure: dual pressures vs. squirters. Main bearings need a little viscosity bump more than they need pressure. They do not have pumping issue but dismal hot viscosity under load.

Under high load + heat, Toyota use of ultra-thin oil welds bearings.
Toyota insist on keeping ultra-thin film... so they keep replacing already replaced blocks.... recalls + class-actions.

Toyota using Mobil1 "0w-40 Euro" oil would help protection with a heavy W30 to stop Toyota lube issue (**)

GM wisely turned away from ultra-thin oils in V8's.


(**) we keep hearing about how oil higher viscosity adds friction...
Here we see the limits:
lower viscosity adds real friction too!

The best working balance for LUBRICATION alone is a W40 viscosity, yes MB stock lube is fine.

Too bad MB GDI engines don't run so well on MOD-0...

 

I would think parts are designed and built for worse case situations. Maybe Lean Six Sigma is applied by Toyota in building parts that meet minimum requirements, but I don’t think so.

These low viscosity oils are creating problems elsewhere, such as the Honda 1.5L turbo gdi engine. Squeezing out 190hp from 1.5 liters puts a lot of stress on the engine. Recommended oil viscosity is 0W-20 and many of the engines are now suffering oil dilution by unburnt gasoline due to high cylinder pressure and thin oil, leading to eventual engine damage. The unofficial fix is to go with a 5W-20 or even 5W-30.

YouTube is a great source for information, but having a channel doesn’t automatically make someone an expert in everything all the time. His advice is prudent if you have a car under warranty and are concerned about coverage. If not, I would want to use an oil with a little more protection.

Why do manufacturers still push these low-viscosity oils? I doubt it has much to do with extending the life of the engine. Part of it is regulations, part marketing hype (who can run the thinnest oil and not seize up?), and part is not admitting they were wrong until they have to, like GM did.

 

Here you go! Thinner oils, variable oil pumps, and Start/Stop, among other things, contribute to early engine failure.