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Started watching the video but had to abort… lots going on this morning so I’ll go back and listen later.
A few quick points:
1. 15k km is almost 10k miles. Anyone that knows better (and is doing this mod) is changing oil in half that time (or should be). I thought that was general 101 class for keeping this things together.
2. 300k km is just shy of 190k miles. I’ll be doing a rebuild/upgrade befor that mileage ever gets close! So in my opinion it’s not a concern.
3. Separate note - and more of a question: changed #5 coil last night and let the engine warm up and idle for a good bit. I noticed that my scanner was reading the coolant about 20 degrees higher compared to the AMG display. Anyone see anything like that? I will say that my display always show 104 degrees for coolant when I first start the day - so definitely an anomaly.
Started watching the video but had to abort… lots going on this morning so I’ll go back and listen later.
A few quick points:
1. 15k km is almost 10k miles. Anyone that knows better (and is doing this mod) is changing oil in half that time (or should be). I thought that was general 101 class for keeping this things together.
2. 300k km is just shy of 190k miles. I’ll be doing a rebuild/upgrade befor that mileage ever gets close! So in my opinion it’s not a concern.
3. Separate note - and more of a question: changed #5 coil last night and let the engine warm up and idle for a good bit. I noticed that my scanner was reading the coolant about 20 degrees higher compared to the AMG display. Anyone see anything like that? I will say that my display always show 104 degrees for coolant when I first start the day - so definitely an anomaly.
Agreed on all of those points. As we said above I think he doesn't want to encourage anybody and be viewed as liable for anything wrong that could occur. I was a bit annoyed that he skipped over @JettaRed 's comment in favor of some other's that were honestly not very relevant.
On point 3) That is a known thing where the ECU reads and uses a different temp than is displayed on the dash. There was a discussion on it either in this thread or another. I believe there was back and forth on wether they could code those temperatures for oila and coolant to be displayed on the dash. I wish I could recall exactly where it was. I believe@CaliBenzDriver was part of it and could expound upon it.
Tried to pull the plug on my W166 yesterday but couldn't get the connector off. I was able to pull back the grey clip but it didn't want to come off. I was afraid of breaking it and having to plug it off like TomZVB had to as I'm not talented enough to do that job!
If there is anyone in Alberta, Canada that is willing to lend a hand I will provide beers!!
Squeeze and hold the grey clip down, push the connector inward like you're installing it, and then pull away. Works every time for me.
Tried to pull the plug on my W166 yesterday but couldn't get the connector off. I was able to pull back the grey clip but it didn't want to come off. I was afraid of breaking it and having to plug it off like TomZVB had to as I'm not talented enough to do that job!
If there is anyone in Alberta, Canada that is willing to lend a hand I will provide beers!!
Thanks for your advice guys! I was able to unplug it and have just driven it around the block.
I bought the car used and noticed a slight shudder when downshifting into third gear so I am looking forward to seeing if the shifting is improved as others observed.
Agreed on all of those points. As we said above I think he doesn't want to encourage anybody and be viewed as liable for anything wrong that could occur. I was a bit annoyed that he skipped over @JettaRed 's comment in favor of some other's that were honestly not very relevant.
On point 3) That is a known thing where the ECU reads and uses a different temp than is displayed on the dash. There was a discussion on it either in this thread or another. I believe there was back and forth on wether they could code those temperatures for oila and coolant to be displayed on the dash. I wish I could recall exactly where it was. I believe@CaliBenzDriver was part of it and could expound upon it.
Yes, for the sake of simplicity:
IC Temp gauge displays a salted number.
MB does not care to expose the normal up/down sawtooth temp regulation. Instead the dashboard displays a sort of fake value to mean: "all good".
As long as we know the gauge temp is not the true bank-2 head sensor, we can ignore useless lies.
I was a bit concerned hearing my fan run in mild weather so I did a quick study of my temps.
I found my ECU doing a fair job at regulating what the basic Temp sensor measures. The fan speed is actuated based on Bank-2 sensor and a target map....
There's not a lot of fail-safety provision in there so I thought I would sanitize my idiot-gauge to show true temps. (Perhaps possible but unlikely.... gauge reads a set ECU variable).
> Cancelled **HEATSOAKS**!
The nice thing about our normal piston cooling is the extreme heatsoak from hot core is now eliminated.
A lot less heat stress helps preserve all the engine plastics in coolant pipes and sensors (CPS!).
@bentz69 showed us earlier there's no difference in MPG with normal oiling ie. overheated pistons do next to nothing to help GDI combustion. Oil film limits frictions and seals rings to return the crankcase pressure to normal. Say goodbye to oil oozing out of every port.
> LIMP TENSNR:
If your secondary chain tensioners are older than 40kMi, do your engine a favor: get a new pair on board (or at very least start with Bank-1 only).
These are weakly sealed to bleed available pressure used by VVT and HPFP.
> Next frontier: NO RATTLESNAKE:
When the tensioner is limp, camshafts timings are impacted with jitter and that screws up the exact timing of HPFP quantity proportioning valve over its 3 or 4 lobes. This root is essential.
This messes up with exact mixture of multishots GDI.... I was amazingly surprised to hear the characteristic rattlesnake ticking transform into a wip-crack. I really-really like no mo' rattlings (2kMi).
By understanding the timings of these machines, we help them work better than new. Cheap tensioner screws up mixture... makes tranny shift poorly.
> OUTCOME:
Given another choice to eliminate engine issues and bump performance, would you try this again ?
There are known experimental risks but overall outcome seems positive.
+++PRACTICALLY ....
-- If your rattlesnake ticking doesn't morph after 2kMi, consider Bank1 chain tensioner.
-- It will be interesting to assess ppl with recent tensioners + 2kMi... other factors may be in the mix.
-- Good timings are not good enough: I know we can do better. Let's find out which is the way to go...
✌️
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-29-2023 at 06:54 PM.
Reason: bentz ID
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Seems like he realized he spoke too soon and is trying to continue justifying his position even though he may actually realize disconnecting the solenoid is a good thing.
Seems like he realized he spoke too soon and is trying to continue justifying his position even though he may actually realize disconnecting the solenoid is a good thing.
im curious oil longevity with the solenoid unplugged. Hopefully changing every 5k miles will still be reasonable
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
im curious oil longevity with the solenoid unplugged. Hopefully changing every 5k miles will still be reasonable
Since Tasos is talking about people who try to get 15,000 km out of an oil change, I'm sure 5000 miles is good.
Read my comment that I posted on his Part 3 video:
The solenoid doesn't cause high pressure, it causes low pressure. With the solenoid disabled, the pump is pumping NORMAL pressure, which must be how it was engineered to perform from the beginning. It is well documented that the ONLY reason for the low pressure is to maximize gas mileage. If there were no federal mandates to have a fleet average mileage that increases every year, I suspect we wouldn't be having this conversation. Mercedes own XENTRY TIPS publication (LI07.70-P-070763) states that the solenoid is a non-essential part, to ignore the DTC (P06DA00), the CEL will not be illuminated, and the vehicle continues to operate as designed. It can't be much clearer than that that disabling this solenoid is HARMLESS.
Apologies, I'm about as good at using this app as I was at pulling the plug!
Edited my post - W166 63S also throwing on-dash CEL.
Originally Posted by JettaRed
Since Tasos is talking about people who try to get 15,000 km out of an oil change, I'm sure 5000 miles is good.
Read my comment that I posted on his Part 3 video:
The solenoid doesn't cause high pressure, it causes low pressure. With the solenoid disabled, the pump is pumping NORMAL pressure, which must be how it was engineered to perform from the beginning. It is well documented that the ONLY reason for the low pressure is to maximize gas mileage. If there were no federal mandates to have a fleet average mileage that increases every year, I suspect we wouldn't be having this conversation. Mercedes own XENTRY TIPS publication (LI07.70-P-070763) states that the solenoid is a non-essential part, to ignore the DTC (P06DA00), the CEL will not be illuminated, and the vehicle continues to operate as designed. It can't be much clearer than that that disabling this solenoid is HARMLESS.
totally understand and I read your comment.
is that xentry tip also applicable to the m157 engine? There is some contradictory info as some m157 owners have a CEL now
Seems like he realized he spoke too soon and is trying to continue justifying his position even though he may actually realize disconnecting the solenoid is a good thing.
Yes, exactly!
Master Tasos does a whole lot of good. We appreciate and share his wisdom: this mod is strictly a personal CHOICE!
-- The nature of pump control makes this mod mostly interesting below 3500.RPM.
-- Race track WOT enables normal pressure automatically.
Master Tasos talk about not toping oil level because that's a sign of bad old burned oil with lower viscosity. Totally right!
Don't keep bad oil.
If you don't want your oil to get burned black in less than 500Mi then have normal pressure spray cool pistons so they don't get superheat. Big difference clean cut right there.
Engine heatsoak in UAE must be pretty astronomical for coolant pressures.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 12-29-2023 at 08:50 PM.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by PeterUbers
totally understand and I read your comment.
is that xentry tip also applicable to the m157 engine? There is some contradictory info as some m157 owners have a CEL now
The only engine listed is the M274, but the same logic still applies. I don't know if all M157s have the oil pressure sender (see my post 690 above), but those that do seem to throw a CEL when the solenoid is disconnected. I think we are still trying to figure out why the M157 is treated differently.
Remember, a CEL is supposed to be used ONLY for emissions-related problems, not all mechanical problems.
The only engine listed is the M274, but the same logic still applies. I don't know if all M157s have the oil pressure sender (see my post 690 above), but those that do seem to throw a CEL when the solenoid is disconnected. I think we are still trying to figure out why the M157 is treated differently.
Remember, a CEL is supposed to be used ONLY for emissions-related problems, not all mechanical problems.
seems to be chassis specific. W212 e63s also use m157. But no one reported CEL
im curious oil longevity with the solenoid unplugged.
Hopefully changing every 5k miles will still be reasonable
Oil life will be extended back to normal 7 to 10k once the piston rings get cleaned up and begin to seal blowby.
-- Stock setup burns the oil with random squirting of superheated pistons. Rings are stuck by burned oil carbon.
-- Mod cools pistons above idle and prevent any superheat development.
Oil no longer has a chance to get burned black and vaporized through plenum onto valves.
The only engine listed is the M274, but the same logic still applies. I don't know if all M157s have the oil pressure sender (see my post 690 above), but those that do seem to throw a CEL when the solenoid is disconnected. I think we are still trying to figure out why the M157 is treated differently.
Remember, a CEL is supposed to be used ONLY for emissions-related problems, not all mechanical problems.
Perhaps some software configurations look at it as an emissions issue? Maybe something to do with that half a MPG savings combined with the weight of the car?
Would be great if a MB engineer happened to be lurking on MBWorld.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
From the XENTRY wiring diagrams @kevm14 posted on this thread, https://mbworld.org/forums/mercedes-...es-me-cel.html, the oil pressure sender (B42) is also connected to the Fuel Pressure and Temperature Sensor (B4/25). Not sure what to make of that yet.
12-29-2023, 12:22 PM
