bentz69

My cold start has not changed as far as rpms, amount of time at specific rpms and sound is concerned.

pathfinder_88

RE GL63 after pulling plug:

This is my wife's daily so I get less wheel time than I'd like but I'd say low rpm smoothness is improved. I was getting a little 7th gear hesitation under load at low rpm which seems to have resolved after pulling the plug. The changes aren't as significant as other have noted, perhaps some of this is the TCT transmission vs MCT.

I will be loading my EC stage 1 tune back this week after some revisions. Will see if it remains smooth under light throttle as this was an issue previously with the tune.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

"The engine revs right after starting due to a process called the cold start enrichment. During a cold start, the engine needs a richer fuel mixture to ensure smooth operation and prevent stalling. This is achieved by increasing the amount of fuel injected into the engine, which in turn causes the engine to rev up temporarily. Once the engine reaches its optimal operating temperature, the revs will stabilize."

That said, I'm not sure why it sounds differently. I know on cold starts normally, the exhaust sounds very throaty. I've noticed a slight change as well. But I have scanned my engine multiple times and there are never any codes other than P06DA00.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

Interesting you say that. I have a Stage 2 tune that also exhibited light throttle "bogging" UNTIL I disconnected the solenoid. After that, the car is as smooth as factory.

pathfinder_88

I read that earlier on so I'll be interested to see this as well.

AMGandS1K

This mod completely eliminated that issue for me as well. Has made driving the car 100x more enjoyable.

I am RENNtech tuned.

EckFe1

Started cold engine at 30F today. No difference from sound or length of increased idle, from before I unplugged.
Engine response however has improved after operating temperatures have been reached.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I plugged back in today. So, before you excommunicate me (or burn me at the stake), let me explain.

I'm taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow because my passenger seat stopped working. Because I have a Vehicle Service Contract (a.k.a., 3rd party extended warranty), I wanted to return the car to stock because I know the dealer will run a full scan of the car and I don't want the DTC to be added to the record for my car. I can tell them NOT to do any software updates, but I'm not sure they are obligated to record any error codes. Last thing I want is some potential future claim to be denied because I didn't get P06DA00 fixed.

So, I loaded the factory tune and plugged the solenoid back in. It's snowing, so I really couldn't test things out, but I did take a short trip to the gym and back, probably 15-20 miles round trip. So far, no problems (but it didn't fix my seat).

I'm thinking loading the factory file reset everything to default and the car is expecting the solenoid to function as programmed, and therefore all the oil squirters and other benefits we've received aren't expected. And the DTC did not return after clearing it.

CaliBenzDriver

Here, hopefully this will help ManyBenzDrivers:

-- You have grabbed a free passage to engine Nirvana..
-- You quickly saw improved low RPM response but somehow self-tuning improvements halted on the way to becoming A1 .
-- You got some goodness but not all that could be had. I promised this may be near painless unless scoring got here 1st.
-- Luckily it is simple like a Swiss watch.


> Core QUESTION:
How can we help our ECU resume self-tuning a good engine into awesome ??

First you need to understand your engine has a brain on-board. Greasy solenoid does not toggle old troubles into great.
Having more pressure helps smooth out shaft all the way to HPFP that need to see CPS spin timely. What's in between is VVT in rotation driven by a chain that has a sicko amazing oil tensioner.

> Action -> Reaction:
-- The way your engine runs is the best Bosch can currently run it.

-- What's stopping your engine improvements are variabilities introduced by timing jitter. If you're interested in science, dig into Xentry to see how ECU tracks individual cylinder for smoothness.

-- No1 enemies are the light misfirings from poorly timed combustions.
When you're stuck in that ballpark... you don't even realize it. We're not talking a bad sparkplug dead miss. Only the ECU detects a low contribution. All cylinders are involved. The whole engine runs poorly because VVT are ineffectively time by wonky chain slack: now you know, it's that simple as oil pressure messing up HPFP regulation by ECU.

-- We've seen the VVT gear is extremely dependant on oil pressure. So much so it uses a pressure accumulator to helpout. We understand there is not enough pressure available when coming up from a low pressure... duh!
This is why the engine performance below 1500.RPM is laggy from factory.

​​​​​​We have not mentioned the sealed pistons decreasing crankcase pressure there by helping MAP measure the plenum MAP pressure.
The ECU can trust plenum data to compute the amount of gas needed to create a 14.7 stoichiometric mixture.
As you imagine injecting gas requires exact time precision.


> PRACTICALLY
You simply need to help your engine run smoother predictable timings to get better fueling maps from the ECU... Let's see how.

Without knowing your exact service history we can consider MB favorites to de-tune performance:

• spark firing (50kMi plugs/boots)
• clean upstream Lambda sensors
• tight chain tensioners
• Undamaged cylinder wall /pistons skirt /conrods
• Trusted oil viscosity

You can readily assume your fuel side is under tight control by the mighty Bosch ECU. Definitely don't rush at messing with your priceless injectors or pumps unless you can pin a LEAN miss.
If you have a non-contributing cylinder then smoothness is not in your cards.

Search your service history to see when the weak tensioners were replaced. If over 40kMi then action time!


> STARTUP RPM's:
The ECU holds startup RPM's high until the burning is satisfactorily smooth with little to no misfiring. Then ECU learn better data to deliver better behaviors. All of which are derived from learned 3D-maps. So fine improvements are way not instantaneous at all.

ECU has to be satisfied with your engine can burn clean before it sprays more fuel..

Go ahead, edge your bets to win smoothness factors for higher levels up. The live referee is Bosch software. It keeps eyeing very precisely the CKP tics.


> INCENTIVES:
-- When the ECU is satisfied with engine timings data, the HPFP will become noticeably quieter at idle.

-- The flip side of jittery timing is great low RPM torque pulling from 750.RPM and driving high gear ratio with power at 1500.RPM freeway speed.


> ASSESSMENT TIPS:
-- There's nothing really wrong with jittery numbers, it's just forcing the ECU to work under degraded "best efforts" law.

-- Cold start idle being high 1300.RPM and staying up longer. With limp tensioners initial 1500.RPM idle is kept for 15secs followed by 15secs of 1200.RPM then 850

-- With best nirmal timings the cold start is lower (900.RPM) and much shorter (4secs). Then transitions to 750.RPM for 10secs the 600.RPM

-- The cold idle gets lowered really fast. That's so unusual it's even weird how quickly the idle gets lowered. Just like loosing the rattlesnake idle is odd. This happens after when the engine gets near operating temperature.


> WHY...
I can directly attribute the improved low RPM pressure to better oil viscosity.
Everyone swears by his own oil selection with premium additive package...

My ECU confirms it likes the oil recommended to me by Juan, purchased on AMZ prime, overnighted to my door for free 👏


> RECAP... PRESSURE!!
This whole thread is about good oil pressure to keep the chain tensioners and HPFP free from timing bumps. It's only then ECU/TCU can map exact timings.


> ENHANCED STOCK :
Your car performance will get adjusted based on your personal choices:

1. Pump output pressure
2. Limp chain tensioners
3. Marginal oil viscosities

Instead of cheating rich mixtures, we give the ECU best conditions to deliver. Lag is caused by poor mixture on the way to get richer during accelerations.
Great mixture timings yield a responsive accelerator at any speeds.


+++ New "thread for Idle sounds"...
If you're interest about listening to idle sounds someone can create a thread.

• Just idle RPM
• hot and/or cold engine: different sounds
• no roaring, it's direct fuel injection

​​​​​​
Anyway you know what's on the short list to get tight engine timings. ✌️

AMGandS1K

Let us know how it goes. I'm interested mainly in if they push a software version update on you even after requesting not to like BMW does.

For the error code, I suppose for users like yourself who still have reason to go to the dealer, we should determine a method to fool the ECU into believing it's still plugged in. Other than the light bulb that would also draw suspicion from a tech under the car.

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

I had to reschedule because of the snow. So next Monday I take the car in. In the meantime, back to unplugged!

pathfinder_88

I'd also like a solution to make it appear plugged in and to fool the ECU as well.

kevm14

The easiest way would be to buy a second solenoid and plug it in. Most of our cars don't have an oil pressure sensor anyway. I have theorized that even on the rare vehicles with an oil pressure sensor that it won't know the difference if you plug in a dummy solenoid.

pathfinder_88

I'd like to see a male/female plug between the solenoid connector and the male connector with whatever resistance is required to avoid throwing the soft code. This way it looks factory for those of us with extended warranties and no stored code. If this becomes the new "must do", I assume someone will eventually produce this.

juanmor40

Discussed in this same thread @ ( https://mbworld.org/forums/w212-amg/...ml#post8898803)

A resistor will generate heat, which must be dissipated either via a bulb and the surrounding air, or a heat sink. Not that trivial to hide it only within a female/male connector + resistor.

The non-physically intrusive, though software-intrusive, solution is to code the ECU pressure settings to be continuous, i.e. the solenoid is never activated. All connections remain the same.

pathfinder_88

Yes, I recall some discussion about this. I'd have no issues having it coded out. During my next discussion with Jerry at EC I'll bring it up and see what he says. I'd still like the dummy plug on the factory connectors as well.

S-Prihadi

I am certain the ECM sees the oil solenoid as as an electrical load. For my M276.820 engine the solenoid is consuming 700 ish milliamps , at 80 - 84% duty cycle at 200 Hz ,
at system voltage, where if mine is a constant 13.9 to 14.0V.
I have the alternator LIN wire disconnected, as I hate the yoyo charging done by the ECM.




.
I choose the bulb 3.4 watts x 2 as dummy load to fool the ECM and albeit near 7 watts only or 0.46 amps approx on a bench test, the ECM does not produce DTC, ECM assume the oil solenoid
is still there.

The front SAM or rear SAM detects power consumption of devices to protect and declare DTCs. Too light a load it wil flag open circuit DTC, too much a load it will declare short circuit DTC and stop sending power to device.
I assume the ECM is using the same method for oil solenoid. This is the reason light load LED T10 bulbs for interior, depending on where the bulbs is used, will trigger DTC.
If u have a LAUNCH Creader Elite for Benz , we can see this milliamps data in the VARIAN CODING for various components.

The 3.4 watts I use is a special T10 for Honda motorbike instrument cluster bulb, which is much cooler than the T10 5 watts Toshiba brand MB uses. Temperature below is in Celcius.
Ambient temp during the test is approx 30C.



I also simulated underhood temperature for this 3.4W bulbs. I use heat gun to generate 100C ambient temperature of underhood, where for my tropical city, my underhood temp can be up to 90ish Celsius.

Do note that thermal imager is actually not so accurate when shooting thru a glass and a bulb casing is glass. I have a physical K thermocouple touching the bulb as 2nd temperature sensing.
Basically the 3.4 watt bulbs I use will not be over-heated by the engine bay ambient temperature, even at 100C, that was the test for.



Adding 100C from heat gun, bulb glass temperature rise from 74C to 103C only. Nice.


Below is before applying heat gun.




I choose bulbs so that I can still get visual confirmation that the ECM is commanding the oil solenoid.
Also my mod is 2 way mode via toggle switch, I can defeat the oil solenoid and send power to the bulbs, or I can switch power to oil solenoid ( as-is, not defeated )





I add 2 amps fuse for the bulbs, as safety measure. Wiring mod is below.

.




Specific to M276.820 engine, there is an interconnect X26 no 4 ( 14 pin connector, the same as headlight LED type ) at Bank 1, near charge air cooler coolant expansion bottle, the baby sized one.
I can work from there and no need to be under the engine / harmonic damper.
Lots of work , because I do not cut any wires. I buy new SLK 2.8 male and female terminals to make all look as factory as possible.

Green circle of left image is where the modified wiring get bundled up. Also the X26 connector





M278 and M157 engine bay is much more crowded and does not use X26 interconnect #4 like my M276.820, more troublesome to do similar mod to mine.
M276.9 3.5NA also does not use X26 interconnect #4 like my M276.8 3.0Turbo.
So you guys can get the matching female version connector* (*male connector from wire harness to oil solenoid ), that is by Hirschmaan, MLK 1.2 family for the terminals. The body style is Seal Star 1.2. Must check the coding/groove .






.


Have fun............

JettaRed

iTrader: (1)

OK guys, I bit the bullet and ordered the cheapest solenoid I could find off eBay. (Damn! As I was typing this, I thought to check AliExpress. Half the price of the cheapest on eBay.) The connector looks like it will plug right in to the wiring harness. I will tie wrap it to the coolant hose and see if the P06DA00 goes away. It's coming on a slow boat from China, so don't hold your breath. The good thing is it will be Summer by the time it gets here and I won't freeze my butt off installing it.

In case someone else wants to try...

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/32568...Cquery_from%3A

EckFe1

Why don't you disect the solenoid and get rid of the mechanical parts and just keep the actuator coil or whatever you find in there.
Just a thought.

CaliBenzDriver

that's right!

You know "K I S S" right:
- Use the coil from a 12v relay
- spliced into a pigtail.
Cost $10.

san40

With a dummy solenoid plugged ECU might bring back the original software behavior of "delays" to switch solenoid, get up to pressure, etc. My assumption with solenoid unplugged and CEL in ECU, the software assumes the pump is always in high volume mode, thus no delays and improved responsiveness.

jcarsnz

Totally agree, fooling the ECU software like that could be asking for trouble. No way I'd be taking on that kind of risk.

juanmor40

Experimental data using the dummy bulbs from @S-Prihadi did not show that.

CaliBenzDriver

That's no problem - The VVT gears positioning is done without any consideration for the solenoid activity.
In fact what you intuitively brush on is exactly what makes these engines laggy slow-pokes!

Unfortunately the solenoid status and VVT management have no software connection where in reality VVT depend on oil pressure ie. solenoid activity, right?
​​​​​​
These two entities would seriously benefit from interactions.
-- The Pump Solenoid needs to provide the pressure needed by VVT to shift gear around.
-- The VVT solenoid needs to be aware of what pressure it is working with not to corrupt its PWM map.

Having only normal pressure allows us to bypass the immature simplicity of the firmware code. Somebody walk by and decided it would be amazing to run engines on idle oil pressure, without consideration for oil functions:

1. limp tensioners
2. limp VVT gears
3. superheated piston crowns
4. stuck carbonated rings
5. scored dry cylinders

There is no relationship between the engine improvements and the ECU acting in consideration the pump solenoid fault.

>> You can either keep the CIRCUIT OPEN or add a DUMMY LOAD to prevent fault... either way, the engine timings are unaltered by the solenoid status.

The ECU only knows that an open solenoid is not dangerous and totally ignores killer solenoid jams for engines with stock oiling.

The engine fatalities are caused by specs of aluminum migrating from the camshafts bearings and dry piston skirts. Non-magnetic shavings jam solenoid plunger and spin crank bearings.

Enjoy your open-sourced improvements.

Rickman30

Seems the question of coding or using software to change its opening and closing strategy had been enquired upon quite some time ago.

Turning it off instead of adding resistors or light bulbs would have my vote for certain. Not knocking any of the other choices, mind you. But an elegant and simple solution, leaving the appearance of being untouched has its appeal.

Why engineers keep fixing things that never were broke to begin with, will forever be a mystery. Increasing MPG by a fraction of a fraction is not solving problems.

Harry Stamper asks "Quincy! Somebody tell me what this is? A plastic ice cream scoop? What'd that cost? About $400.".