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Looking at fb this morning (M157 marketplace), someone chimed in to say they changed their oil and unplugged. After a short time, it was noted that the freshly changed oil was considerably darker than normal (the user reported that he plugged the solenoid back in). Anyone experienced similar?
My thinking is that the detergent package is doing its job cleaning all the crap off the pistons, but without seeing it/smelling it for myself, I can’t really say. If oil temp is stable, then it shouldn’t be a “cooked oil” situation - just cleaning. My thought would be to perform more frequent oil changes to see if the condition improves.
Anyway, just an interesting observation. Thoughts?
Originally Posted by juanmor40
Thank you for that information, and I agree with you that likely the engine is being cleaned now, in particular the piston rings.
I will ask my Indy to comment on the oil color or else. He usually comments on the quality of the replaced oil. I already have 600 miles on mine, and due for an oil change this week anyway.
Did someone seriously judge the mod based on oil "color"? I could understand if it had an extremely concerning consistency or viscosity, but COLOR? haha. Did he mention what his OCI is? is he doing 3-5K that these cars should be changed at? Or is he going "manufacturer recommended 10K or more?
All oil will discolor from heat, put some in a pan at 220F and watch what color it turned into. We are now technically heating out oil more frequently within the system than prior to the mod. Oils are completely fine operating at the normal temps that this car gets too. If you're driving on a racetrack or getting your oil 250-300F, then you should be changing your oil very frequently or after that event.
Get a Blackstone oil analysis if you're concerned about what's in your oil and how it has worn. I plan to do it for my oil change coming up this week or next. Then doing the same my next oil change.
Is there anyone here who has NOT done the mod and is about to do an oil change and will then be doing the mod? I'd chip some money in to help you buy a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) from before the mod and then after 2-5K miles again to see the difference in the breakdown of oil. You'd have to keep your previous oil type/brand/weight so we can try and reduce some factors.
I'll go on record and state right now that I am not expending ANY energy (other than this post) trying to convince someone that their oil is NOT discolored because "the oil pump is working harder."
I may be the minority here but I have always done 10,000-11,000+ mile OCI's using liquimoly 5w-40 with either ceratec or mos2 (depending on the interval) on my previous '14 w204 m156 c63 for approximately 90,000 miles and wear metals were always within spec AND the TBN showed significant life left in the oil. Blackstone analysis stated I could run the oil for at least 13,000 miles if I wanted to.
Now with the '16 w218 m157 cls63s, I still use the same oil and additives while following the same 10,000+ OCI's. Results are the same. Wear metals always within spec and TBN shows a good amount of life left. Car currently has about 58,000 miles.
I unplugged the solenoid right when I did the last oil change in early December and sent in the sample to blackstone. That sample had 10400 miles and Its currently being processed. Since unplugging, I have appx 2000 miles on the new oil. Reading this thread has me wondering if I should shorten the OCI to maybe 5,000 or 6,000 and send in the sample or continue with my 10,000+ interval. Either way, Ill be sending in a sample like always.
Let me state for the record that I am not at all concerned with engine oil color unless there has been some kind of catastrophic failure in the works. And when that happens, you pretty much know ahead of time anyway (increased oil and coolant temps, lower oil pressure - for engines that you can monitor anyway, excessive oil usage, etc).
I think the person got scared off and thought that the solenoid was the cause. Now, if the engine had an issue with the valve being stuck/partially stuck, I could see this creating an issue - but that issues would have have been prevalent before unplugging. Our valve works a little differently than the mechanism shown in Taso's video from the SLS - I don't think these things have that much of a failure chance compared to the SLS part, but that's just my opinion.
Let me state for the record that I am not at all concerned with engine oil color unless there has been some kind of catastrophic failure in the works. And when that happens, you pretty much know ahead of time anyway (increased oil and coolant temps, lower oil pressure - for engines that you can monitor anyway, excessive oil usage, etc).
I think the person got scared off and thought that the solenoid was the cause. Now, if the engine had an issue with the valve being stuck/partially stuck, I could see this creating an issue - but that issues would have have been prevalent before unplugging. Our valve works a little differently than the mechanism shown in Taso's video from the SLS - I don't think these things have that much of a failure chance compared to the SLS part, but that's just my opinion.
It's funny that now ppl on FB disconnect magic-plug, look at dipstick then quickly reconnect plug.
The lack of understanding creates unrealistic expectations... "now, my blinkers have stopped working".
Pulling the plug is a bit like going on a diet.
There are both short & long term changes. Obviously pistons rings are not going to cleanup overnight.
Some of us don't need to measure everything scientifically to have realistic expectations. Everyone's engine has different pre-existing conditions.
I think 5 -10K should bring back balance in cylinders rings ability to seal blowby. You can simply gauge that with your brake pedal becoming great.
Having normal lube is totally beneficial to create a consistent film, cool heat away and clean carbon residues.
-- An oil that becomes chocolate is cleaning.
-- An oil that's vaporized is burned like dark coffee.
-- An oil that stays honey for 5k... we'll see if that's possible after crankcase internals get cleaner.
thicker 5W-40
I just got on MOTUL XCESS Gen2 5w40: viscosity seems more stable than prior Mob1. We've seen how viscosity is linked to volume flow that linked to pressure: the true hydraulic force moving VVT phasers.
My VVT seems to respond well to better viscosity... as in pretty touchy response to Motul!
Courtesy of @juanmor40 insight.
All the oil certifications are borderline non-sense numbering, seals, logos.... when in reality the basic viscosity is not even there Mob1. I would be surprised if this was not just self-certified like the popular B-737MAX.
Reality trumps fluffy claims: I trust VVT response! This Motul goes in the right direction.
This car has really turned around to become surprisingly amazing. Before this MB was dishing out drama, now it's computerised engine management is impressive.
It has turned around transformed. It was a heavy chassis now its a flying carpet with great engine, steering, brakes.... a keeper!
All the dreams from the promised land made available at once: from lemon to champ - Thanks MB No1 dive buddy: @S-Prihadi
++++ VVT @ 800Rpm...
better viscosity shows VVT expected to work near idle Rpm. As a result the engine power is available near 800.RPM, NOT 1200.Rpm.
This directly influence the tranny response with D1, D2.
Last edited by CaliBenzDriver; 01-09-2024 at 10:51 PM.
I may be the minority here but I have always done 10,000-11,000+ mile OCI's using liquimoly 5w-40 with either ceratec or mos2 (depending on the interval) on my previous '14 w204 m156 c63 for approximately 90,000 miles and wear metals were always within spec AND the TBN showed significant life left in the oil. Blackstone analysis stated I could run the oil for at least 13,000 miles if I wanted to.
Now with the '16 w218 m157 cls63s, I still use the same oil and additives while following the same 10,000+ OCI's. Results are the same. Wear metals always within spec and TBN shows a good amount of life left. Car currently has about 58,000 miles.
I unplugged the solenoid right when I did the last oil change in early December and sent in the sample to blackstone. That sample had 10400 miles and Its currently being processed. Since unplugging, I have appx 2000 miles on the new oil. Reading this thread has me wondering if I should shorten the OCI to maybe 5,000 or 6,000 and send in the sample or continue with my 10,000+ interval. Either way, Ill be sending in a sample like always.
Edit. Report came in today
That is impressive. Does Blackstone have any comments on your additive approach? I am using Liquimoly Molygen - I assume you are using the regular stuff.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
@bentz69 FCP recommends using Ceratec every 5 oil changes/25,000 miles. Do you use it every change? Also, the 300ml bottle treats 5 liters, but our sumps hold more. Do you use more than one bottle per application?
I have not done an oil change yet - was just done and I’ve put a few hundred miles on the car since, but will be going a similar route with an additive package. Generally, this is frowned upon if you follow threads over on “Bob is the Oil Guy” but listening to the Porsche guys (and their similar issues with scoring), I think it’s a safe bet to consider. I was also considering going with Driven Racing Oil - recommended by Lake Speed Jr and Charles Navarro to combat the scoring issue on the Porsche side, but have been hesitant because Driven oils do not meet the MB 229.5 spec (with our short oci’s doesn’t really matter?) think my only concern would be for low ash content - Driven has that covered with their DI-40 (5w40) - no additives are needed with their oils.
I know I’m not going to be using 0w40 Mobil. Too thin for a 40 weight.
I've posted this video before but thought I'd bring is back up for consumption. Definitely something to listen to regarding Euro-spec oils (A40/229.5) and how they are surely contributing to the damage we see on these engines especially with long oci's (I believe Mercedes-Benz latest oil requirement specifies 35k miles - this is preposterous!). The oil direction control solenoid disablement along with the right oil/additive package will surely go along way toward keeping these engines going at least in the stock or mildly modified categories (connecting rod bending power modifications are a whole different subject). The lower the mileage, the better off you may be at preventing damage.
The whole video is informative, but it gets really good around the 7:20 mark.
And with all that said, I think that it's safe to say that a straight 229.5 spec oil (meaning no additives) is bad for these engines and is only specified to meet strict fuel economy standards. I will not be using these oils in my M157.
2015 SL400 (M276 Turbo), 2014 C350 Sport (M276 NA), 2004 SL500 (M113), 2004 Audi TT225 (BEA)
Originally Posted by kevm14
I think the idea behind MolyGen is it already has "the additives."
I agree. It just sounded like there would be an adverse reaction if you added Cera Tec to MolyGen. Maybe overkill, if not a waste of money. Once I deplete my Mobil 1 0W-40 using Cera Tek, I'll probably switch to the MolyGen, as well.
I just had visions of what happened when I added Redline Water Wetter to my coolant in my VW Jetta once. All sorts of solids formed and turned the coolant from pink to brown before I flushed everything and went back to only G-12 and water.
01-09-2024, 09:06 AM
